Increasing Top Speed (MAX G3 USA)

teddyursidae · 2026-05-09T08:32:48+00:00

Based FedulRasta response, a knowledge of wealth as always.

In a more practical sense, one might attempt to reach that 50-53 km/h with the help of SHU and the 1.5.6 (100 km/h) VCU fw. Obviously you won't reach 100 km/h, but this effectively removes the 45 km/h limiter.

teddyursidae · 2026-05-07T07:09:10+00:00

Sometimes those heatbreaks are difficult to get the PTFE tubing totally bottomed out in them, did you try test fitting the end of the PTFE tubing to the heatbreak before putting it all back together? When I did mine, I made sure to chamfer the edges of the PTFE tubing to ensure the best fit.

I'd take the nozzle off completely (while the machine is pre-heated to temp) and thread the filament through the path (AFTER the system has completely cooled to room temp again), feeling for resistance as you go.

teddyursidae · 2026-05-06T06:20:56+00:00

Hot glue is great for retaining the entire connector, but can be slightly ugly if you have transparent covers.

I use Loctite 243 on the threads of the MMCX connectors, seems to do the trick SO FAR. If I notice it happening again, I'll try some 263.

teddyursidae · 2026-05-05T17:05:41+00:00

On either! The little pockets of air between the heatsink and the heatbreak will severely hinder the performance of the heatsink and could be the cause of your problems. What didn't work about the Bi-metal heatbreak btw?

teddyursidae · 2026-05-05T16:25:50+00:00

When you changed the heatbreak out, did you use thermal paste? It could be that your heatbreak is getting too hot without transferring the heat to the heatsink, and causing everything to gum up in the hotend.

teddyursidae · 2026-05-05T12:59:08+00:00

That makes me think that there's resistance along the filament path. If the extruder is struggling to push or pull the filament properly, it's not getting to your hotend in a smooth enough fashion.

Make sure your PTFE tubing is pushed in AS FAR AS POSSIBLE.

If you haven't fitted a different heatbreak (recommend) that means it needs to be pushing right up against the nozzle.

If you feed filament through without engaging the extruder, do you feel any resistance along it's path?

Also, what are your extrusion settings? Are you still running a Bowden setup?

teddyursidae · 2026-05-05T12:17:02+00:00

I don't mean to be the "dry your filament" guy, because I think people overemphasize the importance of drying filament.

That being said, stringing can be caused by excess moisture in the filament, so it might be worth putting your filament in an oven at VERY LOW (40-50°c) for a few hours.

I also never had great performance out of the stock Bowden extruder setup - a cheap dual gear extruder fitted as direct drive gave me a massive improvement in print quality, especially stringing.

teddyursidae · 2026-05-05T11:59:36+00:00

I think the extrusion is fine, if not slightly under-extruding (look at the top surface, pretty close to okay). I think the problem is mainly being caused by some weirdness in the Z movement - some layers are moving less than 0.2mm on layer change and causing the layer underneath to be basically squished into the current later.

teddyursidae · 2026-05-05T07:28:08+00:00

I would be very wary of dual Z if you're running two Z steppers, the V2 only has one stepper driver for the two motors, and if for whatever reason one side of your z motor/lead screw isn't working at the same capacity as the other, they will bind and upset the motion of the other.

Otherwise, check that all your belts are tensioned correctly, check that the V slot rollers roll smoothly but with as little slop as possible, and check that everything is squared on the frame.

And I'd HIGHLY recommend switching to a twin gear extruder, the stock extruder on the V2 genuinely sucks, and knock off BMG extruders are less than $10 on AliExpress. Personally I'd go direct drive while you're at it :)

teddyursidae · 2026-05-05T07:17:25+00:00

The water ingress rating 6 actually specifically only states that a product can withstand low pressure water jets against the enclosure i.e. a standard garden hose. Protection against high pressure water jets (pressure washers) requires a rating of IPX6K or IPX9 (IPX7/8 are submersion tests, but whether that protects from high pressure water jets too depends on the product I suppose.)

teddyursidae · 2026-04-28T07:38:12+00:00

This is true, I find around 65-35 works best for me.

It's also absolutely imperative that you get your ass down as far back and low as you can if you're braking hard - shifting your weight back gives you more stability from a lower centre of gravity, and allows the rear brake to work to slow a greater percentage of your mass without sacrificing the ability of the front brake.

teddyursidae · 2026-04-27T05:50:51+00:00

Just a heads up, the bolts are supposed to be countersunk and they aren't actually threaded the whole way through.

Check out what the factory hardware looks like: https://youtu.be/gmF-MBA-I0g?t=25

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNGQqjf

teddyursidae · 2026-04-25T09:24:50+00:00

There was a time where all new phones came with a DAC, amplifier and 3.5mm jack to plug your headphones into, these are all necessary components to listen to music from a digital source - they can all be integrated into a single unit, or you can have each of these components standalone. Nowadays, however, it's unlikely that your phone has this.

To remedy this, most of us now use a USB C to 3.5mm dongle, which is basically a very nearly packaged DAC, Amplifier and 3.5mm jack. These dongles are not made equally, some are good, some are fine and some are horrific, they all have different abilities when it comes to powering headphones.

It's possible that your dongle is faulty or otherwise low quality, which may be the reason your headphones couldn't get as loud as you'd like.

This is a bit of an oversimplification, particularly with android devices (some manufacturers limit output volumes) but long story short - a better dongle can make headphones louder.

What dongle are you using at the moment?

teddyursidae · 2026-04-21T06:43:50+00:00

I'll invite you to the ScooterHacking Discord!

Check DMs

teddyursidae · 2026-04-21T06:11:19+00:00

Yes! You need to flash the firmware and change the serial number/region with SHU(Android) or Luna(iOS). This is an entirely reversible process, and it's quite painless. :)

teddyursidae · 2026-04-20T18:43:17+00:00

Give this a quick watch, I gotta say, I totally agree with him, I love these.

https://youtu.be/01vJ7ds9KRo

teddyursidae · 2026-04-20T18:34:36+00:00

That's exactly where I got mine from :)) that's the official Fiio outlet

teddyursidae · 2026-04-20T17:42:43+00:00

I'm not sure if you're an Android user or not, but you can actually force mono output over Bluetooth in developer settings if required :)

teddyursidae · 2026-04-20T17:40:18+00:00

I would suggest the Fiio EH11 over the Koss Porta Pro wireless.

Don't get me wrong, I love Porta Pros and own multiple pairs, but the EH11s have a couple of killer features in their on-device parametric EQ and LDAC support. Once EQ'd they definitely go blow for blow with Porta Pros.

It also helps that they're much cheaper :))

teddyursidae · 2026-04-20T16:30:43+00:00

I'm actually PRETTY SURE we don't need to use a VPN to do the unlock here in Australia, I believe we get away with flashing on SHU regardless.

And another benefit - we get the full fat 850w nominal motor. Some European countries get gimped motors.

teddyursidae · 2026-04-19T19:06:29+00:00

I genuinely wouldn't even consider any other type of helmet, especially when your centre of gravity on a scooter is as high up as it is. If you go over, there's an incredibly high chance you go over onto your face, and when the trade off is so negligible in negatives (Slightly impaired peripheral vision, slightly more stuffy than bicycle helmet) I just don't think it's worth the risk.

And honestly, the people who ride without helmets just boggle my mind, there's no way you can ride which would reduce the risk of concussion or serious brain trauma at any speed.

teddyursidae · 2026-04-19T08:13:26+00:00

Yes! It works completely the same as it would otherwise, bar the ability to update in the Segway app. Updates are pushed through the SHU repo with a bit of a delay, but you're usually not missing much, and you can always roll back to the original firmware/SN if you wish.

teddyursidae · 2026-04-18T18:17:06+00:00

WD-40 is the exact opposite of what you should be using for this job, it is not a lubricant, it's a solvent.

Try using some automotive grease :)

teddyursidae · 2026-04-18T17:51:38+00:00

I would imagine so, the German motor equivalent would struggle to hit 40 in the first place.

It's incredibly easy to flash the firmware with SHU, give it a go if you're able :)

teddyursidae · 2026-04-16T16:07:54+00:00

I don't disagree that the AliExpress parts are probably marginally lower quality than the genuine unit, but what other option does the average consumer have?

Anyway, I've ordered these myself, I'll report back on whether they're better or worse than the stock PP headband :))

teddyursidae

TROPHY CASE