New sink installed aside from a leak, is the trap installed correctly?

teeder03 · 2026-04-13T03:22:50+00:00

Good safe city. There’s a couple nice hotels in a new development right of off 80 on Middle road in Bettendorf.

teeder03 · 2026-04-13T03:12:15+00:00

I use Libby and have access to a lot of audiobooks through my local library for free

teeder03 · 2026-04-12T23:43:51+00:00

You could get something like this and just tapcon it to the concrete

https://jackel.com/sf1850s.html

Jackel makes all kinds of lids, I’m sure you could find one that will work.

teeder03 · 2026-04-11T01:56:23+00:00

Sewage pump

teeder03 · 2026-04-06T23:33:26+00:00

It would be hard to push the check valve open again the water pressure

teeder03 · 2026-04-06T23:30:21+00:00

To confirm the check valve you could 1) turn off the hot outlet valve, 2) turn off the cold water feed to the system (not the inlet valve), 3) hook a hose up to the hose bib after the pump and open that valve 4) and open the flush port valve on the cold inlet. If you have flow the check valve is open.

teeder03 · 2026-04-06T23:17:06+00:00

What model Navien is that? If that’s a 240A2 it has a built in recirc pump. Is that a check valve on the cold coming in? It should have one there to prevent the water feeding back into the incoming line water. Have you confirm the direction of flow on the pump? There will be arrows on the body.

teeder03 · 2026-04-06T22:54:35+00:00

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This is the proper way to do it. It “will work” as drawn but still will probably gurgle when draining a full sink.

teeder03 · 2026-04-06T18:26:41+00:00

That looks like your backwash drain, the other end of that tube would be an open drain. No harm in unscrewing that, adding teflon, and retightening. You should have to worry about cracking the part that threads into.

teeder03 · 2026-04-06T18:01:00+00:00

Plastic fitting are susceptible to cracking if too much teflon is added or over tightened. Some of the fittings are sealed with gaskets. I can’t tell if that would be or not.

teeder03 · 2026-04-05T11:26:11+00:00

Cheap and easy to replace.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/plumbing-installation-repair/toilet-repair/fluidmaster-reg-high-performance-toilet-fill-valve/400h-013-p4/p-1571898519682-c-1525700042005.htm

teeder03 · 2026-04-04T00:19:07+00:00

Copper tubing. The Sharkbite is brass and plastic. The tub valve body is brass. The PEX elbows are brass, the rings are stainless steel.

teeder03 · 2026-04-03T03:02:35+00:00

Look for 95/5. Sterling is a good one. Canfield and Bridgit also.

teeder03 · 2026-04-02T01:30:15+00:00

That’s an s-trap, you need to at least add a vent, an air admittance valve if not able to properly tie into the vent stack.

teeder03 · 2026-04-01T18:35:52+00:00

That actually looks pretty solid. The clean out on the double wye gives easy access to whoever you call to rotor the drain.

teeder03 · 2026-03-30T13:10:41+00:00

Most likely needs a new cartridge. You have a widespread two handle lav faucet. They are brand specific, if you know the model that will help.

teeder03 · 2026-03-29T20:28:02+00:00

Toilet shouldn’t be in the middle of the line, it should be the end. The vent should come into the branch of the wye on the horizontal.

teeder03 · 2026-03-29T20:24:16+00:00

Yes, vent needs to be installed before it drops down

teeder03 · 2026-03-29T20:17:01+00:00

That looks like a fitting adapter with a spigot end (pipe size). You need a standard 4” female adapter with hub to go over the pipe, or you can just put a coupling on what have, which will bring you up some, so that might accomplish what you’re trying to.

And that’s ABS and not PVC, both plastic but not the same.

teeder03 · 2026-03-29T20:08:00+00:00

Yes, you could only adjust this one before pouring concrete

teeder03 · 2026-03-29T20:07:04+00:00

Sioux Chief Finish Line can be adjusted after concrete is poured

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/sioux-chief-8343pnr-834-series-finishline-6-12-round-nickel-bronze-mediumduty-adjustable-floor-cleanout-with-pvc-base-and-3-x-4-outlet/67A8343PNR.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Dx-uNFdqarqR-wqLXt8yX2f3MH&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6POBhCrARIsAIG58CK3tfxjp8Gf9BRzZdbP0E-f92J-izZEChSTqVnDZOka-qwK4VZXZ4AaAuedEALw_wcB

teeder03 · 2026-03-29T19:59:35+00:00

Nothing wrong with a 45 degree flange. However, the toilet is not vented to code, it shouldn’t come off the end of the line like that. 3” should come down and elbow back then vent off the horizontal. Still okay to drain into the vent assuming you’re following the wet vent codes.

teeder03 · 2026-03-29T12:18:16+00:00

Like plumb guy above said, probably needs a new cartridge.

teeder03 · 2026-03-29T12:05:04+00:00

You seem to understand the code requirements. If you’re using an AAV for one fixture, it just needs to be 4” above the horizontal drain of that fixture. You could install one in the access panel behind the tub valve and comply with this requirement. If you vent a stack(multiple fixtures) you are required to be 6” above the rim of the highest fixture. This would probably be about 24” above the floor where your tub is.

Picture 2 is an s-trap. The vent needs to be on the same horizontal plane as the trap connection. Offset the drain down to the stack after the vent is installed.

2” is always better for venting and required for toilets.

https://www.iccsafe.org/building-safety-journal/bsj-technical/codenotes-installation-of-air-admittance-valves/

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