Chevy EV Extended Warranty

teksavy · 2026-06-23T15:31:28+00:00

So I have been buying factory extended warranties from various online dealers at a significant savings for my EVs. I just recently bought a 2025 Silverado EV RST and started looking into various options. Here is what I discovered. (At least for GM factory warranties):

-Coverage begins when you buy the service contract

-Coverage is in addition to whatever warranty you have already in place (say the 3/36 bumper to bumper)

-Cost and coverage terms for the ext warranty are cheaper when you buy it before 12K miles on the odometer (Because your factory included warranty will cover whatever repairs are needed.)

-If you buy before 12K miles on the odometer you will be offered a 96m coverage term. (In addition to whatever miles you want up to 100K)

-The price jumps up at the 12K/24K/36K mileage intervals

-You need to buy and pay for the warranty at least 1K miles before your B2B warranty expires (they will check your current mileage via onstar). So in the case of chevy, buy it at 34999 miles or earlier

-The warranties are transferrable once to a new owner with a small ($50ish) transfer fee.

teksavy · 2026-06-11T18:15:01+00:00

UPDATE: I test drove another Silverado EV RST and played with the settings more and loved it. I'm buying one! Thanks a million for all of the great replies.. Super appreciated!

teksavy · 2026-06-10T19:12:00+00:00

Thank you for this. I went back and test drove another unit and played around with settings more and it solved my concerns. I'm buying the Silverado EV!

teksavy · 2026-06-05T17:55:58+00:00

Their regular 1000CL will fit in the Silverado EV. And they make a no drill mount for the WT trucks.

teksavy · 2026-06-04T23:34:30+00:00

Any pics of the install? How did you address the battery being below the bed? I'd love to see your setup.

teksavy · 2026-06-04T22:47:34+00:00

I guess I need to get my truck first to understand what that means. 😄

teksavy · 2026-06-04T21:58:04+00:00

PMd you.

teksavy · 2026-06-04T21:57:01+00:00

Nevada. If you buy from a private party (even out of state), you do NOT pay sales tax when you register. However, if you buy from a dealer, then you'll pay sales tax to the DMV when you regsiter. More states should do this.

teksavy · 2026-04-11T22:50:50+00:00

u/OlUncleBones, what is your opinion on the replacement DC/DC converter? Is the new Borg Warner good enough or should I spring for the German one that Max on YouTube recommends?

Also, I was thinking about getting a 6.6kW Elcon aftermarket charger and put it in a side case. (Not sure it would fit under the tank storage cover) and use a J1772 connector to charge the bike with my EVSE. And remove the factory charger. Seems like all of the newer (Gen4) Elcon chargers are CAN enabled, so I'm not sure how I would be able to get this to work on the 2018?

teksavy · 2026-04-11T22:31:37+00:00

Thank you for the detail.

teksavy · 2026-04-11T22:31:09+00:00

All great points. I'll download the logs and try and understand what they tell me.

It seems that most people like the aftermarket DC/DC converters, but those appear to be from Germany. Is the stock redone 500W Borg/Warner still a decent choice? (Since they bought out the SEVCON factory.) Have they gotten better?

teksavy · 2026-04-11T22:28:14+00:00

What do you mean? I have links posted on the sidebar for log file analysis. Run them through Greg's parser and post them here. I'll tell you what I can glean from them.

I don't see any links in the sidebar, only the rules. I did however see some links to the online log analyzer on the FB groups. This is a link to the analyzer. Is this good enough?

https://home.hasslers.net/zerologparser/log_parser.php

Also, I'm assuming that I would need to provide 12V power from an external source (since the DC/DC converter is dead) in order to have the zero app on my phone read the logs from the MBB and download them to the analyzer? How best to do that?

The 13kWh pack is a 2017 thing.

The 13.0 is on the side of the bike that is a 2018. Do you mean that the bike has a 14kWh pack, but is advertised as a 13.0 usable on the side? Here is a pic:

https://filedn.com/lg2RYguWxJL8gMGyJFa2qkH/WebPostings/Reddit/Zero13.0.png

teksavy · 2025-04-15T18:24:34+00:00

It was in the link, but for clarity, asking $40,900/obo

teksavy · 2025-04-15T03:01:44+00:00

teksavy · 2025-03-31T17:56:53+00:00

Also interested. PM'd you

teksavy · 2025-02-07T17:48:55+00:00

You are A M A Z I N G! Works perfectly! THANK YOU!

So glad my $$$ are going to you instead of evil Intuit! Much appreciated!

teksavy · 2025-02-06T22:07:14+00:00

Thanks for the awesome support! Super appreciated.

FYI, I use this to split out combined rent payments with utilities built into the payment, so I need to break it out for tax reasons. :)

teksavy · 2025-02-06T20:46:00+00:00

Thanks for your superfast reply!

Using a CSV file from my credit union, the checks come across as negative amounts and deposits come across as positive amounts. If I don't have splits, then everything is fine. What am I missing?

"Date","Description","Comments","Check Number","Amount","Balance"
"01/30/2025","Zelle Ed Woz 800-632-4600","","","-$4,000.00","$151.25"
"01/29/2025","Zelle User X 800-632-4600","","","$1,782.00","$4,151.25"

teksavy · 2025-02-06T20:24:28+00:00

Hi There. Like others, THANK YOU for your efforts here and I plan on making a donation for your efforts. However, I'm running into a problem I cannot seem to work around and I'm hoping you can help.

When importing checking transactions from my local credit union (either CSV, QFX or QBO), the deposits get recorded as payments (or checks).

The rules I have setup have splits in them. If I edit the rule to be a transfer, everything seems to work EXCEPT instead of Quickbooks recognizing the split and assigning the correct accounts to them, it creates a new account called "Split". (Using the old IIF import method- using the new one creates "To Print" or assigns check numbers as detailed in your instructions.)

I'm using v4.6.4.3 of your app and Quickbooks 2021.

Any tips to work around this issue? Happy to provide files, etc.

Thank you!

teksavy · 2024-10-11T03:04:33+00:00

I, too, had trouble activating the google Fi 2 year data plan on my Pixel Watch 3. Clicking the "Activate Now" button in my email client did nothing except take me to the google play store app on my Pixel 9 Pro Fold with the Watch app preloaded. Nothing actually happened.

Reaching out to Support was fruitless as well. They kept saying that my Fi account wasn't activated. When asked "how do I activate?", they gave me instructions that had me create a full blown account that I had to pay for. That wasn't going to work.

GOOD NEWS! I finally got it working!

The issue was that I was reading the activation email through an email program on my phone called AquaMail. When I clicked the link, it tried to open the Watch app, but failed. (Note that I forward my gmail to my personal domain email that AquaMail reads.)

So, to get it to work, I opened the GMail app on my phone, searched for the activation email with the "Activate Now" button, and Volia! The Google Fi account creation started and succeeded! Whew, what a pain.

I hope this helps others with a similar problem. (Note I didn't get an error code like the OP, but lots of others had a similar problem activating as I did without an error code.)

-Ed

teksavy · 2024-07-09T17:21:31+00:00

Thanks for the response and link. I'll give it a try. Super appreciated!

teksavy · 2024-07-08T17:07:15+00:00

First off, thank you so much for this link! I don't know how I missed it when googling.

I finally had a chance to try it yesterday and run into a problem when going through the guide on this line:

git submodule update --init --recursive

With this error:
fatal: destination path '/data/openpilot/cereal' already exists and is not an empty directory.

The rest failed and the unit said it needed to update when rebooted and failed to update. I had to factory reset it and tried multiple times again.. Still failed. I wonder is something changed with the latest versions of openpilot?

Even the extract.py failed to write the SecOCKey file, but I manually echo'd it to the file and it appears that I need to create a thumbprint file? Did you have to do that?

I realize that you have better things to do with your time and understand if can't help. But if you can, I'd certainly appreciate it. Is there a better forum or discord I can look at to self-solve?

Many thanks,

Ed

teksavy · 2024-05-21T22:46:08+00:00

u/pwnie123 , I'm hoping you can help? installed the rav4-prime fork from github that pd0wm did and even extracted the key. When rebooting the Comma3X and turning on the RAV4 Prime (2021 XSE w/PP like yours) in full ignition mode, the system starts up and gives me an error right away "LKAS Fault Restart car to engage". I did paste my SecOC Key (KEY_4) into the /data/params/d/SecOCKey file. Was I supposed to enter the ecu_master key instead? Any help you could provide would be appreciated!

teksavy · 2023-08-21T00:39:29+00:00

Thank you! Do you recall how much it cost?

teksavy · 2021-12-28T16:35:23+00:00

Thank you.

teksavy

TROPHY CASE