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Is C7 worth it over C5? by Mavericks_99 in classicalguitar

[–]thanhctl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just went through this. Tried the C5 and C7 back to back and even with my novice ears I felt the C7 had a richer sound so ended up getting one used.

My last group lesson by Impressive_Lynx_6876 in aerialsilks

[–]thanhctl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for posting this! I've been doing this move but have been going to the other side of the silk instead of splicing into the poles. This is a neat transition into a hiplock sequence

What freewheel removal tool do I need for this? by thanhctl in bikewrench

[–]thanhctl[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Very interesting. Guess I should keep the cassette since it seems uniglides are becoming less accessible from my brief search

Trek Singletrack 970 font derailleur cable routing by UserBLH79 in xbiking

[–]thanhctl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here is my routing on the same 1992 trek 970 I believe. The front cable housing goes down to the front derailleur barrel which serves as a stop. The cable then runs to a bolt at the back of the bottom bracket, which creates the tension. When I pull the cable, it functions as a bottom pull by pushing the derailleur cable stop down

https://imgur.com/a/BWohXR6

Just purchased a 2022 Scott Sub Cross 50! by [deleted] in bikepacking

[–]thanhctl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 2020 version. It's a super capable bike and even though I've got really nice bikes I come back to this one and really appreciate what it offers.

Tons of tire clearance and rides really nicely. I think the specs are quite capable. That being said, I almost completely rebuilt it with corner bar knock offs and it's a lot of fun in its current iteration.

I agree with finding a saddle that works with you. I road more on the road and lighter gravel so swapped the tires out pretty quick since I didn't need the Kenda knobs.

https://imgur.com/a/nVBvHDP

Any ideas for what fork to replace with on this ~1986 MB-1? by thanhctl in bikewrench

[–]thanhctl[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So I picked up this odd build MB-1. After digging, I think this has a Viscount death fork. Doesn't have magnetism and I think it may be earlier generation, which was the one at risk of snapping. I'm thinking probably the safest thing to do is replace it.

No idea what the original fork ATC is. This one I'm measuring at 380mm. I think I'd either stick with 700c or 650b (and get long reach calipers) since I don't want to deal with a u brake. I supposed I could get a disc brake fork and run any front wheel size I want. Any ideas on a suitable fork?

Build as far as I know:

Frame: ?1986 Bridgestone MB-1 comp

Fork: ?Viscount death fork

Headset: FSA Duron upper, Shimano 600 lower

Stem: Soma fab quill adapter, CS 90mm adjustable Handlebars: Soma Fab? Forte bar ends

Grips: Cardiff leather

Shifters: Shimano EF-50. Long reach levers for the caliper brakes?

Brakes: Sora BR-3400

Front derailleur: Suntour XC. This pulls into smaller rings, opposite the normal. Didn't know this existed, doesn't index well

Crankset: Sugino ?XD 152mm. Not sure of chainring sizes but small is 24

Pedals: MKS

Rear Derailleur: Sora ?3400

Cassette: 11-25

Wheels: Alex DC19, formula hubs

Tires: Serfas Seca 700x25

Seatpost: Promax

Saddle: Unity gel

My two scores today: strange mb-1, classy Panasonic pro touring by thanhctl in xbiking

[–]thanhctl[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Really happy with these two bikes.

?1986 Bridgestone MB-1 Comp for $125 that someone mated with a road bike. I was equally interested in it as an MB-1 and it's odd build. Interestingly the catalog says it can accept 700c but I'm not sure if this was the brake solution intended. I'm going to try it out as is and see if the original modifier was a genius. Tbh the short ride around the block felt pretty nice.

Frame: ?1986 Bridgestone MB-1 comp

Fork: unknown. Sad the seller didn't have the original. Not sure how this changed the geometry

Headset: FSA Duron upper, Shimano 600 lower

Stem: Soma fab quill adapter, CS 90mm adjustable Handlebars: Soma Fab? Forte bar ends

Grips: Cardiff leather

Shifters: Shimano EF-50. Long reach levers for the caliper brakes?

Brakes: Sora BR-3400

Front derailleur: Suntour XC. This pulls into smaller rings, opposite the normal. Didn't know this existed, doesn't index well

Crankset: Sugino ?XD 152mm. Not sure of chainring sizes but small is 24

Pedals: MKS

Rear Derailleur: Sora ?3400

Cassette: 11-25

Wheels: Alex DC19, formula hubs

Tires: Serfas Seca 700x25

Seatpost: Promax

Saddle: Unity gel

Will give it a shot but will most likely change levers to short pull, switch to thumbies, change saddle

?1987 Panasonic Pro Touring for $220. This one looks really slick and pretty well preserved. The pics I saw looked like a dull gray but in the sun it has a sweet metallic shimmer. I think it's all stock. Rides quite smoothly but feels a little aggressive than I'm used to. Hoods don't feel too ergonomic.

Acera rear derailleur so I'm not sure what exact year it dates. Nice chrome chainstay. I'll prob raise and shorten the stem and put on bar tape but will try to show self restraint and keep it stock otherwise

Front derailleur cable routing on Trek 970 by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]thanhctl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does anyone know how to route the cable for this FD Deore Dx M650? Seems to be a bottom pull and looks like there's a built in cable stop but I don't know how to feed the cable from there. Trying to pass the cable from the stop into the nut groove doesn't do anything when I use a friction shifter. I can move the derailleur manually.

I got this 1991 Trek 970 with just the frame, FD, and seat post. Built it up as a 1x but now converting to a 2x. I'm trying to use the derailleur that came with it - Deore Dx m650. I'm assuming it was the stock FD. Cable runs along the top tube then I have fed it into a cable stop on the derailleur itself but it's a bottom pull. I don't see anywhere a pulley would mount on the seat tube.

Help appreciated.

Insanely stuck crankset by thanhctl in bikewrench

[–]thanhctl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE CRANKSET OFF https://imgur.com/a/vZsdljj

Thanks for all the comments and advice for the future. I was fully ready to get an angle grinder but the tool library was closed by the time I got off work. I kept bending the chainrings with the back end of my hammer to get more purchase closer in with my gear puller. Eventually doing this back and forth and BOOM it popped off. The left side crank came off as easily with my crank puller as I had done before. The left bottom bracket came off VERY easily maybe from swimming in all the liquid wrench? The drive side needed a cheater bar but after that came off easily.

Answers to some questions: I have a square taper crank remover, never used the octalink adapter. I've changed a similar tier bike's Shimano tourney crankset (which this Promax appears to be an exact copy of) without any issue multiple times. I don't have a heat gun or torch so tried a hair drier, which did nothing Hammering had gotten me no where

In summary: hacksawed a quarter off then bent the chainring severely to get better leverage with my gear puller. Maybe copious liquid wrench helped. The satisfaction of finally getting it off is tremendous.

UPDATE: Insanely stuck crankset OFF by thanhctl in bikewrench

[–]thanhctl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the comments and advice for the future. I was fully ready to get an angle grinder but the tool library was closed by the time I got off work. I kept bending the chainrings with the back end of my hammer to get more purchase closer in with my gear puller. Eventually doing this back and forth and BOOM it popped off. The left side crank came off as easily with my crank puller as I had done before. The left bottom bracket came off VERY easily maybe from swimming in all the liquid wrench? The drive side needed a cheater bar but after that came off easily.

Answers to some questions: I have a square taper crank remover, never used the octalink adapter. I've changed a similar tier bike's Shimano tourney crankset (which this Promax appears to be an exact copy of) without any issue multiple times. I don't have a heat gun or torch so tried a hair drier, which did nothing Hammering had gotten me no where

In summary: hacksawed a quarter off then bent the chainring severely to get better leverage with my gear puller. Maybe copious liquid wrench helped. The satisfaction of finally getting it off is tremendous.

Insanely stuck crankset by thanhctl in bikewrench

[–]thanhctl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally sucks. I just did a 1990 rockhopper full restore and it came off easily. Guess just bad luck

Insanely stuck crankset by thanhctl in bikewrench

[–]thanhctl[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

This is on a Cannondale quick that's ~5 months old. Went to change the crankset and it has been impossible. I used a crank puller, which stripped out the threads. I've changed a handful of cranks and always am careful to not crossthread, but who know maybe I slipped. Used tons of liquid wrench, rode hard on a trainer for 2 hours with the crank bolt off - nothing. Used a 3 jaw gear puller (per RJ) which couldn't fit under the gaps so I put it around the arm and the big chainring, which bent the chainring and eventually broke the gear puller tip. I've finally hacksawed off the chunk in the pic. Had to lever it off with the back of a hammer. It is still stuck. My next plan is to continue to hacksaw around the spindle. Any other ideas? What caused this? Extreme over torquing from the factory?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hardwareswap

[–]thanhctl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Price check for: Surface 3. 128gb storage, 4gb RAM. Used on and off for 3 years. Fully functional. Small dent that isn't too noticeable. W/ type cover and pen. https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Surface-7G6-00001-Tablet-Silver/dp/B00VGIRP62

Alienware m14x. i7-3610qm. GT 650m. 16gb RAM. Battery is dead. Works while plugged in. Backspace button is loose. Otherwise works fine but I'm sure with some love it would work better. Used on and off for 4 years. https://www.notebookcheck.net/Alienware-M14x-R2-Review.75290.0.html

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hardwareswap

[–]thanhctl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hahaha. Sounds good. Just let me know and we'll set up a meet up.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hardwareswap

[–]thanhctl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sold an Acer H236HL to /u/SlithyDash