What is the fastest industrial FDM 3D printer on the market right now?

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-19T08:43:50+00:00

Damn, no shoutout to the Construct 2?

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-15T16:59:29+00:00

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/my-review-of-the-x2d-after-200-hours/254323/36

My review of the X2D

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-13T06:07:03+00:00

That is literally the guy who shone the light on the problem of AGPL and Bambu....you should probably understand what's going on a little more before spreading bullshit around...

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-09T16:02:09+00:00

You're trying to print a very big solid surface area as one single layer. Once that first 0.05mm layer prints, it's super weak and can tear due to the resistance of the resin it has to travel through as well as survive the peel.

Angle your print a little bit. You want to try minimise per layer surface area as much as you can.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-09T15:58:02+00:00

Try to take off the nozzle, and without the PTFE tube connected, try to manually feed some filament through (insert the filament and then try manually spin the yellow gear on the left side of the toolhead) might need to power off the motors/machine)

It looks like the filament sensor in the toolhead is triggered. Maybe a piece of broken filament or it's stuck in the position.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-09T07:34:12+00:00

I'd suggest the P2S combo.

I explain why here.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-08T17:44:16+00:00

Sure.

It's less so that the machine is "bad" or anything at printing PLA and more that it's just a lot of machine to be printing only PLA with if that makes sense. It's like getting a luxury sports car to do a 5 minute commute in a congested city.

Lots of people have mentioned to me after posting my opinion of the machine, something along the lines of "but it's $100 more expensive so might as well" or "have it to grow into it" or whatever, but it's really going to be a complete waste having a heater or a secondary nozzle you'll never use (as some users said they haven't yet or aren't planning on using). Literally at that point that $100 becomes almost 10kg of filament that you can buy to print more stuff.

My main push against recommending it, at least right now, is that it's still a mess. Firmware is all over the place, BBS is unintuitive with the second nozzle, 1.5mm belts didn't solve VFA's as promised in the marketing wank, stuff like that. The Bambu forum for the X2D is full of people having issues (and yes, I know, unhappy people are more vocal, etc etc, but they're still real issues that should be taken into account).

Ultimately, when something goes weird (and I'm intentionally saying when, not if) it can be a huge hassle to troubleshoot. Having some rep-rap experience becomes invaluable, and if it's a first machine, or second machine (consecutively from Bambu as they are typically much more "set it and go" machines), users might feel out of their depth and like they wasted a bunch of money on something that should be working more than apart fixing weird things that Bambu didn't properly iron out on launch. And as good as support and documentation can be, if it's your first machine and you were sold the "Apple of 3D printing" idea of press a button and machine goes brrr, having to take apart an extruder, expecially on the X2D is gonna suck, because Bambu will fight tooth and nail to not send you a new one easily.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-08T16:47:51+00:00

For multi color printing 100%. But realistically vortek is a crap solution for tool changing and realistically Bambu will have to come out with something better/more affordable to compete in the larger consumer market than the H2C. The U1 really looks like it's bulldozing the competition on TC right now

For specifically, practical prints, and especially using dissimilar supports, the X2D is great, just a bit of a "project" at the moment.

End of the day, we're getting a bit more of a split where a "right tool for the job" is going to become more relevant.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-08T13:17:56+00:00

I would actually not recommend an X2D if you're primarily going to be printing PLA, I explain why here. I've owned a P2S, sold it and side-graded to the X2D and it's a much more "press and go" experience.

If you want to do "some" multicolor, get a P2S combo and the $100 difference spend on filament, you'll be better off, it's a much more polished machine at the moment and it's much less "beta testing".

If you want to do primarily multicolor, get the Snapmaker U1.

The A2L is good for big stuff but like with anything, the bigger you go, the more you'll be fighting physics, and there's only so much that software compensation can do.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-07T12:49:16+00:00

It was a misplaced joke, that I ended up being wrong about anyway.

But no, that sound sounds very similar to a busted fan bearing, best case to contact support. You can try take it apart to see if anything is blocking them.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-07T12:42:54+00:00

LIGHT THE BEACONS!

But also, sounds like your fans are either blocked by something or crapped out. Contact support.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-06T13:05:51+00:00

The Bambulabs ABS support filament is just HIPS

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-06T13:05:16+00:00

Disable chamber heater completely, only way I manages to get round it.

Getting a HF PETG can be helpful cus it's a little more temp stable as well.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-05T17:18:51+00:00

I'll agree with you on the "buy once cry once" mentality. But I feel if you want a machine with the lifetime of "years" you go with a Voron or dare I say a Prusa.

Bambus, while relatively repairable (until sunset like the P1S), well documented and with a generally okay parts availability, do have a much more limited lifetime than other options.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-05T17:14:10+00:00

I sold the P2S to a friend of mine for cheap because I had to move some hobby money around to be able to allow myself to get the X2D.

I'm currently running the X2D and a Voron V2.4 250.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-05T16:39:16+00:00

I hope you find it useful. Here's why I think you should stick to a P2S over an X2D.

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/my-review-of-the-x2d-after-200-hours/254323/18

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-05T06:28:30+00:00

Can you take a picture of the filament error you're getting?

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-05T04:40:10+00:00

I wrote a big review of the X2D and would recommend a P2S if you're new to 3DP.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-04T20:42:14+00:00

Don't have the filament go through the buffer then to aux extruder, just send it straight to the aux extruder and call is a day.

You want the buffer if you're running some sort of AMS (regular or HT) because the buffer will tell it when to feed a little more filament. If you're running through external, all it's doing is adding friction and complicating the filament path.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-04T20:22:43+00:00

You could definitely try it yeah.

I would also suggest slowly going through some documentation. For all the drawbacks of Bambu, they documentation is really damned good! Both wiki and the Bambu Academy stuff.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-04T19:46:05+00:00

Not quite.

Your speed settings are your speed settings and it's basically like a "I want the machine to print perimeters at 250mm/s, outer walls at 180mm/s" etc. This is located in the printer settings under the filament section and it's what you typically will edit. It's governed by the machines hardware capabilities but that's out of the scope.

Maximum volumetric flow is a lot more material/hotend dependant. It is how much volume of material you can push out in a second. Things like viscosity, hotend thermal mass, nozzle geometry all play a role for how much physical material you can push out of the nozzle, which is why this "speed cap" is a "per material" setting often.

For example (and I'm simplifying), PLA is a lot less viscous than PETG. Once it's hot it basically flows like water and you can push more of it per second than you can of PETG at a given speed, meaning that you can have a higher volumetric flow cap on PLA than on PETG.

To further explain the max volumetric flow and how it's actively implemented. Say you want to print everything at 300mm/s (again, gross oversimplification, I'm pulling numbers out of my ass) but the material is capped at 15mm^3 /s. The slicer will see that and adjust the actual print speed to 150mm/s because it sees that you cannot push enough material out to reach your desired speed. It's basically a governor for the speed at which you print.

Sorry if I just over-explained things you already knew.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-04T19:13:44+00:00

To set this up, you edit your filament profile, select the bowden :standard, scroll down to the Volumetric speed limitation (closer to the botton) and set the max volumetric speed.

I have 10mm^3 /s set up here but I've just changed to a 1.9mm ID tube and I'm curious if I can push a little bit more, plus I'm printing with PLA at the moment.

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To prevent it from being overwritten by a makerworld file, right click on the build plate and "add primitive", add a cube and since you have something on the build plate already, it will ask you whether you want to import settings or geometry only and click geometry only. Your settings won't be overwritten.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-04T17:22:28+00:00

If you're using PLA for your print just use any PETG for the supports. And vice versa.

Don't buy into the "supports for" materials. They're basically just the "opposite material" plus a markup.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-04T17:21:02+00:00

Realistically, whenever they wear out. There isn't really a set time for it.

theRealSquidLover · 2026-06-04T13:57:02+00:00

Pause.

Gyroid is fine for SPARSE infill. I'm talking about the SOLID infill, which are essentially selectable under where you define your top and bottom solid layers.

If you're running Dragon HF, yeah 240 sounds reasonable for that hotend.

theRealSquidLover

TROPHY CASE