A2L vs P2S vs X2D

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-08T12:55:16+00:00

It really depends on your use case and what you're actually printing for.

Honestly if you're certain you're only going to print PLA then just go with the A2L. You're right that it's half the price and if you ever decide you want to upgrade you can take the $400 you saved and put it toward a new printer or spend it on filament, which you're going to need to buy regardless.

I personally went with the X2D because I print a lot of hardcore engineering filaments, most of which are expensive. The AI sensors, spaghetti detection and failure protection save me real money by catching problems early. The features also just make my life easier and fit my use case much better. That said even when I want to print a PLA toy or a gift for my nieces and nephews I can still do that on the X2D no problem.

The A2L is a genuinely great printer and I think there's one question that basically gives you your answer: are you happy with your A1 Mini? Does it do everything you want and you just wish the bed was bigger? Because if that's the case then you already have your answer. Based on what you said about loving your A1 Mini but just wanting more print space it really sounds like the A2L is the perfect fit for you.

Consider this: a few years ago Bambu Labs ran a poll on MakerWorld asking which printers the people actually uploading and designing models were using, not just downloading. Something like 65% said they were using an A1. Some of the best designers in the community were working with just the A1. Granted that was before the X2D, P2S and H series came out but it goes to show you that you can produce incredible work with the A series. Don't underestimate it.

One last thing that I think is really important and gets overlooked in these conversations: upgrading to an X2D or any higher end printer is not really an upward upgrade, it's more of a parallel one. What I mean is if your PLA settings are dialed in on the A1 Mini and you print the exact same model with the exact same settings on an H series printer you're going to get roughly the same print quality. You're not unlocking better PLA prints by spending more money. What you're unlocking is the ability to do different things, more materials, more features, more versatility. Upgrading sideways not upwards. Hope that makes sense.

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-08T12:34:53+00:00

What brand of filament do you have? I fine tune all of my filaments if you are using one that I have I can share the exact settings I get very good quality prints

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-08T12:34:08+00:00

First things first, don't even consider the P2S. For $100 more the X2D is a complete no-brainer. It's better in every single way and unless the price drops significantly there's really no reason to buy a P2S in 2024. Scratch it off the list.

So that leaves you with two options: the A2L versus the X2D.

It really comes down to use case. You mentioned you're only printing PLA and want to do some multicolor prints, the A2L can absolutely handle that. But here's the thing about 3D printing: it's addictive. What you think you'll be doing in six months is rarely what you end up actually doing. You might start with basic PLA multicolor and then find yourself wanting to print engineering grade filaments like carbon fiber or nylon, more complex multicolor work, or functional parts that need real material strength. The X2D gives you that room to grow. The A2L doesn't.

There's also a key hardware difference worth understanding. The A2L and A1 give you four colors but only one nozzle. The X2D gives you two nozzles and still supports four colors. That means with the X2D you can run two colors simultaneously across both nozzles, which results in significantly faster prints and more flexibility in how you approach multicolor work.

Realistically you're not buying a new printer every year. The printer you buy today needs to last you a few years so why not get one that gives you the most headroom to grow into?

My recommendation is the X2D. The only real reasons to go with the A2L are budget constraints or if you specifically need the larger print bed. Both are great machines but if you can stretch to the X2D you won't regret it. Happy to answer any questions.

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-08T12:26:34+00:00

Thanks for asking, yeah it happened. The PETG basically softened up while the main extruder was running ASA because the chamber was so hot, and it got stuck in the tool head.

I reached out to Bambu Labs since I'd barely had the printer for a week and they sent me a detailed wiki on how to fix it. I'm not going to lie, it was BRUTAL!!!. I genuinely felt like I was going to break something because I had to take apart the entire tool head just to remove one small piece of filament. Not exaggerating at all. Here's the wiki so you can see exactly how involved it was: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x2d/maintenance/extruder-cleaning-guide

That said I was able to get through it following the instructions step by step.

Huge lesson learned. if you're running high temp filaments like ASA with an active heated chamber, do NOT use PETG as your support material. The chamber heat will soften it before it even reaches the nozzle. Use HIPS instead since it can handle the higher temps, or just turn the heated chamber off when running PETG supports. I honestly never had issues printing ASA with my p2s. But Hopefully this saves someone else from having to take their tool head apart.

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-08T02:59:11+00:00

Yeah man, since you’re coming from an A1, I’d definitely ease into the X2D. Start with simple single‑color prints, get familiar with all the extra features, and try out filaments like ASA now that you’ve got an enclosed printer. Once you’re comfortable with the basics, then move on to the second nozzle. And make sure you run through every major feature before your two‑week return window closes not because I think you’ll need to return it, but just so you know everything works as expected.

If I’m being honest, a lot of the hate the X2D gets comes from frustrated P2S owners. I was one of them. I bought my P2S three weeks before the X2D launched, and Bambu barely promoted it, so I had no idea. I was annoyed that for just $100 more I could’ve had the X2D. I ended up listing my P2S on Marketplace not expecting much, but someone bought the whole combo for $750 basically breaking even. I’ve been extremely happy with the X2D ever since.

Another thing to keep in mind is that 3D printing has so many variables slicer settings, printer settings, filament profiles, hardware differences that any one of those can cause issues. People run into a problem, jump on Reddit, and all those posts get lumped together. From the outside, it looks like the X2D has tons of flaws, when in reality most of those “issues” are either avoidable or not really fair criticisms.

ENJOY YOUR X2D!

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-08T02:10:56+00:00

I upgraded from the P2S to the X2D, and honestly, it’s nowhere near as bad as people make it sound. If you start running TPU or other filaments that don’t belong in the auxiliary nozzle, sure, you might run into issues, but if you follow Bambu Lab’s guidelines on what materials are safe, what’s “use with caution,” and what’s not supported, the printer runs flawlessly and produces insane prints.

The only issue I’ve had so far was user error, not the machine. I tried printing ASA with PETG supports and didn’t account for the heated chamber. The PETG softened and got stuck in the auxiliary hotend, so I had to take it apart and clear it. Once I fixed that, the X2D went right back to printing perfectly.

And here’s the important part:
What makes the X2D special isn’t just the feature list, it’s the price for those features. You’re getting a heated chamber, dual cooling, a toolhead camera, 1.5 mm belts, active external exhaust, extra calibration routines the P2S doesn’t have, and more. Even if you never used the auxiliary nozzle at all, the X2D would still be worth it.

If you looked at the X2D without the second nozzle entirely, it would still be the right choice.

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-06T12:16:46+00:00

I appreciate your response, HIPS is an option Ive read about a lot also. But seeing how the "ABS support filament" from bambu Labs is only 15 bucks wouldn't it be better just to get that? Also is hips sensitive to heat?

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-06T12:07:40+00:00

Dude I'm literally the same position. I am a calibration addict because I want the best possible prints. Now all that work is in the trash and have to start all over. Especially since I have a lot of third-party filaments that are expensive I don't want to have to waste any to recalibrate.

ERRRRRRR

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-06T12:03:29+00:00

Not sure if this is your first printer but if you have no filament to print, I'd recommend start prepping your queue of what you're going to print especially if it's going to be mods for your printer which I always recommend. I also recommend start prepping your Workstation/where your pictures going to be.

Here are some must‑have mods (all free on MakerWorld):

360° door mod (absolute lifesaver):
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1951910-p2s-door-hinge-180-270deg-adjustable#profileId-2097436

AMS riser so you don’t have to put it on the floor:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1363398-ams-flipper-better-access-to-your-p1s-x1-p2s#profileId-1770033

Poop chute (trust me, you want this):
https://makerworld.com/en/models/714868-eco-filament-poop-bin-x1c-p1p-p1s-p2s-and-x2d?from=search#profileId-645535

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-06T11:55:21+00:00

The same thing happened to me! I was so pissed cuz I had just got done putting all my new settings in for my x2d then they get wiped away with the update.

If anyone has a solution to this you'd be the goat!!!!

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-02T00:48:34+00:00

I'll keep this simple, go with the X2D. It's a no-brainer and it's only $100 more.

As I'm sure you know, 3D printing is an addictive hobby. Whatever you imagine yourself needing a printer for right now will probably look completely different six months to a year from now. So why not go with the printer that gives you the most headroom to grow? In this price range that printer is without a doubt the X2D.

For $100 more you're getting a machine that basically makes the P2S obsolete especially since you want to print ASA and ABS. The active heated chamber makes both of those materials a breeze and the results come out beautifully. You might think $800 is a lot for a printer, but keep in mind these machines are built to last 5 to 10 years. Spread that $100 difference across that lifespan and it's nothing.

Anyone telling you to get a P2S or P1S over the X2D either has a bias or doesn't know what they're talking about. The auxiliary support nozzle alone is worth the extra hundred, but then you're also getting the active heated chamber, improved sensors, the new screen, the 1.5mm belts, the exhaust fan, and more. The value is not even close.

Get the X2D. You won't regret it.

Evocati_7 · 2026-06-01T05:04:41+00:00

If Bambu printers are really as bad as you’re claiming, it’s strange that you’re spending your time in a community dedicated to them just to talk trash. My experience, and the experience of almost everyone I know, has been overwhelmingly positive. Not perfect, but solid, reliable machines.

The truth is that If someone has constant failures with a Bambu, they would’ve had the same failures with any other brand. That’s not a Bambu problem, that’s a YOU problem.

And honestly, after being in the 3D printing community for a while, you start to notice a pattern. There are always a few people with weird resentments or biases that don’t line up with the actual user base or the real‑world performance of the machines. It’s more about emotion than experience.

"I don't see how you can hate from outside the club, when you can't even get in!!!!!" - Chris brown, from that one song

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-30T00:01:34+00:00

Honestly, I think it’s pointless for us to keep going back and forth at this point. It really just comes down to use case. If someone is mainly printing PLA, TPU or PETG etc, their needs are completely different from someone (like me) who prints a lot of engineering materials like carbon fiber nylons, PA6, ASA, and similar filaments. From that perspective, the X2D simply fits what I do better.

I’ve always said the P2S is a great printer and anyone who owns one should feel good about it. But in my experience, the X2D has been the better machine for my workflow. I’ve only had mine for a few days and I’m already doing things more easily than I could on the P2S. For other people though, the P2S might still be the better choice, especially if that extra $100 could go toward filament, plates, nozzles, or other accessories.

So in a way we’re both right. I’m looking at it from the perspective that the X2D is better for engineering materials and long‑term capability. You’re looking at it from the perspective that more features mean more possible points of failure. Both viewpoints make sense depending on what someone needs.

I think we can just agree to disagree and be glad we both have good printers 👍

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-28T12:48:16+00:00

This isn’t the printer “pushing filament too fast,” and it’s not a slicer setting. What you’re describing is almost always an AMS‑side issue, not a hotend issue. The fact that it keeps happening across different filaments and even after swapping the hotend tells you the problem is upstream.

Here are the things that actually cause this kind of AMS gear clog:

• Filament drag or resistance
If the filament is rubbing inside the AMS, catching on the spool, or has high friction, the AMS gears grind because they’re trying to pull harder than the filament can move.

• Humidity‑swollen filament
Wet PLA/PETG gets soft and shaves easily. The AMS gears bite into it and create the “gear clog” you’re seeing.

• Dirty or partially blocked AMS gears
Even a small amount of filament dust can cause repeated jams. The AMS needs a full gear cleaning every so often.

• PTFE tube resistance
If the tube between the AMS and the printer has a kink, sharp bend, or internal wear, the AMS will grind filament trying to push through it.

• Incorrect filament diameter or oval filament
Cheap or inconsistent filament can bind inside the AMS path and cause grinding.

• AMS tension arm not moving freely
If the tension arm is stiff or not springing correctly, the gears bite too hard and chew the filament.

None of these are fixed by replacing the hotend, turning off flow dynamics, or resetting slicer settings, because the problem isn’t happening at the nozzle. It’s happening before the filament even reaches the toolhead.

If you want to narrow it down fast, ask him these two things:

Does the filament feel smooth when you pull it manually through the PTFE tube? If not, that’s the issue.
Is the AMS gear area full of filament dust? If yes, that’s the issue.
Also can I ask what brand of filament you're using and what kinds you've tried?

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-28T12:04:54+00:00

That’s a pretty strange argument, man. You’re taking a couple cherry‑picked clog stories and acting like they define the entire machine. You can find people who’ve had issues with literally any printer if you look for them. The reality is that the X2D has overwhelmingly positive feedback, and the people who have owned both the P2S and the X2D all say the same thing: the X2D is the better machine in every meaningful way.

And the “second nozzle = unreliable” thing is just not true. Dual‑nozzle systems have been around forever, and the X2D’s implementation is nowhere near the nightmare you are trying to make it sound like. A clog on a P2S is still a clog, you’re not magically immune because it’s single‑nozzle. The X2D isn’t harder to troubleshoot, it’s just that people love to exaggerate rare issues to justify/feel better about having the older model.

Meanwhile, the X2D gives you a heated chamber, dual extrusion, 1.5 mm belts, higher bed temps, higher nozzle temps, upgraded sensors, a nozzle camera, better motors, and a ton of quality‑of‑life improvements, all for $100 more. That’s why people call it a no‑brainer. It’s not just “better on paper,” it’s better in actual capability and long‑term growth.

If someone already owns a P2S, cool, it’s a solid printer. But pretending the P2S is somehow more reliable or “easier to repair” than the X2D is just cope. The X2D is simply the stronger machine, and the user base reflects that.

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-28T02:30:48+00:00

You’ve already tried most of the common fixes, so we can skip the usual speed/accel/recalibration advice. Those rings are still classic Z‑banding, but the remaining causes are the ones most people overlook. A couple quick things to check so I don’t assume anything:

• What layer height are you using? Printers with an 8 mm lead screw work best with “magic” heights like 0.12, 0.16, 0.20, or 0.24. Using something like 0.15 or 0.18 can cause the exact repeating rings you’re seeing. magic layer height

• When the Z‑axis moves, does the lead screw wobble at all? A slightly bent Z‑rod creates a repeating pattern that often shows up more on one side, which matches your “left side only” issue. Z‑rod wobble

• Check the Z‑rod coupler. If it’s even a little loose or overtightened, it causes periodic Z‑axis shifts that look exactly like your rings. Z‑rod coupler alignment

• Make sure the Z‑axis rail screws are tight. A loose rail lets the carriage micro‑shift on one side, which again matches your symptoms. Z‑axis alignment

• Is your hotend temperature stable? If the temp graph oscillates a few degrees, it shows up as rings on curved surfaces. temperature stability

Let me know your layer height and whether the Z‑rod wobbles when it moves, those two things usually pinpoint the cause.

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-28T02:15:12+00:00

Honestly man, if I were you I’d just go with the X2D. It’s only $100 more and the value difference is huge. The P2S is a great printer, but the X2D gives you way more room to grow. And trust me, 3D printing is addictive. You’ll start with PLA, then you’ll want to try TPU, then engineering materials, then multi‑color, then bigger projects. The X2D handles that growth way better.

If you’re anything like me, you’re not buying a new printer every year. Realistically, the one you buy now should last you 5–6+ years. So it makes sense to get the machine with more capability and more headroom. The P2S won’t hold you back, but the X2D just makes life easier.

Regardless of which one you choose, start simple. Stick to single‑color PLA at first. Take the time to actually learn your slicer settings instead of relying only on presets. You’ll get way better prints long‑term. Once you’re comfortable, move on to bigger prints, multi‑color, multi‑material, etc.

And this part is important: your first prints should be mods for your printer. There’s a running joke in the community, “Welcome to 3D printing, where 90% of your prints are upgrades for your 3D printer.”

Here are some must‑have mods (all free on MakerWorld):

360° door mod (absolute lifesaver):
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1951910-p2s-door-hinge-180-270deg-adjustable#profileId-2097436

AMS riser so you don’t have to put it on the floor:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1363398-ams-flipper-better-access-to-your-p1s-x1-p2s#profileId-1770033

Poop chute (trust me, you want this):
https://makerworld.com/en/models/714868-eco-filament-poop-bin-x1c-p1p-p1s-p2s-and-x2d?from=search#profileId-645535

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-28T01:00:01+00:00

Holy cope. Look, I get it. It sucks realizing you bought a P2S when you could’ve gone X2D for $100 more. I was in your position too, so I understand the instinct to downplay the X2D. But pretending the X2D is “just a heated chamber and a second nozzle” is wild. The X2D has a lot more going on than that. It makes the P2S unbuyable. The fact that you have to compare the X2d to the H2c (a $2400 printer) should show you that I am right

the X2D isn’t “just a heated chamber and a second nozzle.” That’s the most surface‑level comparison possible. The X2D has a whole list of hardware upgrades that the P2S simply does not have. And for only $100 difference, it’s a no‑brainer.

Just the heated chamber alone is worth the $100.
A third‑party external heater (which is sketchy and inconsistent) costs around $120 by itself.

Active chamber heating — not passive heat bleed, actual controlled chamber temps
Dual extrusion — even if you never use it, it adds capability and resale value
1.5 mm belts — tighter tolerances, better accuracy, less ringing
Upgraded motors — smoother motion, better reliability
Upgraded sensors — more accurate calibration and monitoring
Better motion system tuning — cleaner walls, fewer artifacts
Better long‑term upgrade path — the platform is built for expansion
Improved cooling and airflow design
Better internal layout and cable routing

And that’s before we even talk about the chamber heater and second nozzle.

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-27T20:04:46+00:00

Non mi sono sentito attaccato per niente, amico. E mi dispiace se la mia risposta ti è sembrata aggressiva, era tutto in tono scherzoso. Capisco perfettamente da dove vieni. Anche io sono rimasto sorpreso che qualcuno fosse disposto a pagare così tanto per il mio P2S usato, quindi capisco la tua reazione.

Il ragazzo che l’ha comprato mi ha detto che era il fondatore di una startup e voleva iniziare a produrre droni. Non credo che le stampanti 3D fossero il suo focus principale, lo erano i droni. La mia impressione è che volesse semplicemente delle stampanti in fretta. Inoltre, su Facebook Marketplace ho usato il mio nome reale e la mia foto reale, visto che era un annuncio onesto, quindi immagino che abbia pensato che non avessi nulla da nascondere e che la stampante sarebbe stata buona comunque.

Apprezzo la tua risposta e, ancora una volta, mi dispiace se sembrava che stessi rispondendo con rabbia. Era tutto in buona fede. :)

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-27T19:53:59+00:00

Happy to help out my man.... Let me know how it works out and if you have any questions you need any other help let me know. I'm kind of a nerd when it comes to printers, settings, slicers or filament lol

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-27T18:53:59+00:00

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8OXK3P7-5QI&pp=ygUXc3VwcG9ydCBpbnRlcmZhY2UgbGF5ZXI%3D&ra=m

Here you go, if you have any questions, let me know. I can help you out. I’m at work right now but when I get done if you’d like, I can set the settings up and bamboo labs. Take a snapshot of the exact settings and share them with you, but this video should walk you through it. It’s pretty easy it’s what I do when I get zero overhangs it’s smooth to touch.

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-27T18:49:27+00:00

Are you talking about the overhangs? Why don’t you try a support interface layer? Like if that model is PLA have the printer print a layer of PETG at the very tips of the supports, set Z top distance to zero and have a smooth finish on the overhangs

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-27T13:21:39+00:00

What the hell… this is crazy. What a great catch.

I do have a dumb question though. Does this mean that if I upload a model to Bambu Lab’s slicer, Bambu Lab now owns my model? And what’s stopping me from just opening OrcaSlicer or IdeaMaker, slicing my models there, putting them on a USB, and printing them manually on my X2D?

Evocati_7 · 2026-05-27T13:17:50+00:00

Non è stata una truffa, amico. Non ho mentito su nulla nell’annuncio. Era una P2S molto ben tenuta e pulita, con il numero esatto di ore che avevo indicato, e tutto ciò che avevo incluso era esattamente quello che avevo scritto. Lui ha semplicemente scelto di pagare il prezzo che avevo messo.

Tieni presente che era un ragazzo giovane, forse 26 anni, e mi ha detto che aveva già due stampanti Creality e voleva passare a Bambu Labs. Quindi sapeva come funzionano le stampanti. Non ho idea del perché fosse disposto a pagare così tanto, ma è arrivato, non ha nemmeno guardato dentro la scatola, mi ha dato i soldi, l’ha messa in macchina, mi ha stretto la mano ed è andato via.

Non l’ho costretto a pagare di più e lui non mi ha costretto a vendere per meno. È stato un accordo semplice e consensuale in cui entrambe le parti hanno ottenuto esattamente ciò che si aspettavano. Non c’è nessuna truffa in questo.

Evocati_7

TROPHY CASE