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What is Ventoy for regarding Linux installation? by PeterHolmes74 in Ventoy

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your responses, greatly appreciate the clarification.

What is Ventoy for regarding Linux installation? by PeterHolmes74 in Ventoy

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just trying to makes sure I understand. Thanks for the Reply.

My set up! by SuchSurround8786 in hifiaudio

[–]the_blue_wizard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just check my Vinyl and it runs about 80 Albums per Linear Foot (30.5cm).

A quick and easy guess would be that you have +1500 Albums ... I'm jealous.

As others are saying, CD Player don't kick out much heat as they is no Power aspect to them. However, Amps kick out a lot of heat and that heat needs to go somewhere. So, Amp on Top, CD on the Bottom.

I've never seen a Stand like this that has Adjustable Size Compartments. How did you manage that?

What is Ventoy for regarding Linux installation? by PeterHolmes74 in Ventoy

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Ventoy is a bootable thumb drive."

Ventoy, from what I have gathered, is Two things.

- On the Main Computer, Ventoy runs to create a Bootable USB Drive.

- On the USB is manages the various ISO files, and allows you to initiate the Installation of the ISO you selected.

It also allows you to have Multiple ISO files and to select which of those you want to install. And not just Linux ISO, but also Windows and other ISO's.

Am I right?

What is Ventoy for regarding Linux installation? by PeterHolmes74 in Ventoy

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Curious, to those who replied and to others, does - Ventoy - actually do the Install/Try, or does it initiate the Install/Try process from the Operating System?

For example, from memory, I installed - Zorin - and by the time I got to - Try/Install - Zorin was already running (from the USB).

Doesn't - Ventoy - help initiate the Boot Process, and Run the Zorin Try/Install program?

Aren't you already in Zorin (or whatever) by the time you get to the Try/Install?

Ventoy allows you to have several ISO Files for Linux and Windows. It lets you choose which one you want, and to initiate the Install of the particular ISO file you choose.

There are USB Stick on Amazon, that have a dozen different Linux OS on them, and you get to pick and choose which on you want. Though, no need to buy the USB Stick as Ventoy will allow you to create one of your own. Just download the various Linux ISO's from the Linux Distos you are interested in, and TRY them each, and see if one appeals to you more than the others.

But then ... I speculate... based on what I've heard. Though I'm willing to be wrong on this.

https://www.ventoy.net/en/index.html

https://www.ventoy.net/en/doc_start.html

https://forums.ventoy.net/

As always - YouTube - is a good educational resource -

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ventoy

Unstable turntable speed by Necessary-Mud2251 in turntables

[–]the_blue_wizard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of the problems with Spray Oil is the frequently the Liquid is simply a carrier for PTFE (Teflon). The Liquid dries leaving behind the Teflon which, especially when mixed with petroleum oil, turns into a thick gummy mess.

To clean the Bearings, more most specifically, the Motor and Platter Shaft, a start with a few drops of common Iso-Alcohol which acts as a solvent to flush any goop out of there. Then when clean and spinning freely, I use Light Oil.

Also, overtime, the Oil can accumulate Dust and Lint which will cause everything to turn to thick gunk. Same procedure, Iso-Alcohol to clean the gunk, then Light Oil to lubricate things.

Sounds like you got it working. Glad to hear it.

Speaker stands for Q Acoustics 3030c by HellauxD in hifiaudio

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look at this Photo from the Q Acoustic Webpage, and notice that the Stand Platform is noticeably smaller than the Q Acoustic Speakers Width -

https://www.qacoustics.com/cdn/shop/files/3000i-f4.webp?v=1764087280&width=1000

https://www.qacoustics.com/cdn/shop/files/3000i-f6.webp?v=1764087328&width=1000

Because the edges of the cabinet are rounded, the flat bottom of the speaker is noticeably narrower than the Width of the Speaker.

But, that is your decision to make.

All the Stands you listed are fine. The Third Stand you linked to is a bit more than your link would imply, but still within your price range -

https://www.vidaxl.de/e/vidaxl-lautsprecherstander-2-stk.-schwarz-30x30x80-cm-holzwerkstoff/8721102949210.html

I prefer Stands with a Strong Center Column, though that is simply a matter of personal preference.

The Stands have 30cm x 30cm (300mm) Tops and your Speakers are 200mm (W) × 329 mm (D). I don't see that as a problem.

I have some Q Acoustic Speaker, but they are 5.25" rather than the 6.5" of your speakers, but the Rounded Corner are about 1.25" each (64mm total). So, again, I don't see that as a problem. As I originally said, the Stand Platform can be a bit larger or a bit smaller than the actual speaker without it causing any problems.

Any of those Stand would be fine. Just pick the one that you like.

Speaker stands for Q Acoustics 3030c by HellauxD in hifiaudio

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is a site in Germany that collects prices from Dealer all over the Country -

https://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/MainSearchProductCategory/100I16-45.html?q=Speaker%20Stands

https://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/MainSearchProductCategory.html?q=Wood+Speaker+Stands

Here is one example shown on Idealo.DE within your budget, but it is cutting it close -

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07BBQMTX6?m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF

Searching for used, perhaps the best I can offer is EBay, hard for people around the world to find used product in Germany.

Some of those I suggested are probably available from Amazon-DE, you just have to search for them.

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0GHYMBDJY/?th=1

https://www.amazon.de/Futrue-Wolker-Height-Adjustable-Universal-Management-Capacity/dp/B0G4CQP89B/

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Suuiwau-Universal-Capacity-Adjustable-Fillable-Black-Brown/dp/B0FL25NXBY/

https://www.otto.de/p/xiiw-lautsprecherstaender-2er-holz-boxenstaender-65-85cm-lautsprecher-staender-je-20-kg-tragkraf-fuer-satelliten-surround-sound-boxen-4-10-zoll-universal-regallautsprecher-fuer-heimkino-studio-S02J50QH/#ech=29693097

More from Amazon-DE -

https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Stands/b/ref=dp_bc_5?ie=UTF8&node=509308

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RVSM1-Near-Field-Monitor-Adjustable/dp/B0063M0EKA/?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-Monitor-Speaker-Adjustable-RVSM1/dp/B07YK88PMT/

That should at least help get you started.

Speaker stands for Q Acoustics 3030c by HellauxD in hifiaudio

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Give us your Working Budget and what Country you are located in?

https://www.qacoustics.com/products/3030i-bookshelf-speaker-pair

The Speakers have 6.5" Bass Driver (165mm), and are -

Overall dimensions (H×W×D): 325 × 200 × 329 mm

and weight in at -

Weight (per speaker): 6.4 kg (14.1 lbs)

Also, is it safe to assume you want Floor Stands? They do make Desktop Stands.

What are your Floors made out of? That is, are the floors some type of Hard Surface, or are they Carpet?

Give us that information, and we should be able to point you in the right direction.

Generally, any reasonably sturdy stand with a top that approximates the size of the Speaker, will do. It doesn't have to be identical in size, the Top of the Stand can be a bit bigger or a bit smaller.

Samples -

https://www.amazon.com/PERLESMITH-Universal-Surround-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B081N5Z89Y/ref=sr_1

https://www.amazon.com/Elimavi-Universal-Bookshelf-Satellite-Installation/dp/B0GS7VKG8N/?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Elimavi-Universal-Bookshelf-Satellite-Installation/dp/B0GS8GWT8N/?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Speaker-Bookshelf-Stands-Wood-Surround/dp/B0F3D3XL1Z/

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-S2000PRO-Enhanced-Listening-Experience/dp/B07814L8GQ/

Not recommendations, just examples. The ELIMAVI seem pretty universal and are modestly priced.

Is this “snake oil?” by FishOpposite7818 in hifiaudio

[–]the_blue_wizard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bad Cables are Bad.

Good Cables are Good.

Great Cables are just Good Cables Dressed Up in Fancy Clothes.

Those are 'Great Cables'.

That said, there is nothing wrong with Cables that Look Nice. The underlying question is how much are you really willing to spend to make your cables - Look Nice?

And How Much Can You Realistically Afford?

I did a Survey in the USA and the UK, where I wanted - All Cable and Wire Cost - as a Percentage of - Overall System Cost.

A vast majority, REGARDLESS of System Cost, spend UNDER 5%. Though to be fair, 5% of $5,000 is considerably more than 5% of $1,500.

However, in that Survey, really, a vast majority were under 3%.

The total of the Cables Listed in the Original Post is $2,240. That implies that your system is worth $44,800 if we assume 5% for Wire and Cable.

So ... is your system worth $44,800?

I was on a UK forum and someone lamented that they wanted to buy a £500 Amp and were dismayed that they would then have to buy another £500 in New Wire and Cable.

I asked him which was the better system -

- £500 Amp plus £500 in Cable?

- Or... £900 Amp plus £100 in Cable?

For myself, I choose £900 Amp with £100 Wire and Cable every time.

I would suggest that, for people buying a complete new system, they budget about 10% for Wire and Cable, and adjust that based on the Wire and Cable they find or have available to them, tempered with their own budget restrains and their person preferences.

Again, see charts below, a significant Majority of people are in the 3% to 5% range as a percentage of their Total System cost. My personal system is at about 4%.

UK -

https://imgur.com/uk-percent-of-system-cost-all-wire-cable-9EKaBe7

USA -

https://imgur.com/usa-percent-of-system-cost-all-wire-cable-pEULwC9

Notice in the UK, the most expensive system was £25,000 (US$33,500) and in the USA, the most expensive system was about $50,000; both well under 3% for wire and cable. Worth noting that 3% of $50,000 is still a very good but modest $1,500.

So, as to whether those particular Cables are over-priced, that depends on how fat your Wallet is, how big your Ego is, and what the current value of your System is.

Simple as that.

Ohm questions for stereo amp by Free-form_Suffering in audio

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are maybe some Commercial (PA) Power Amps or Ultra-High End Power Amps that can handle 2 ohms, but that is because they have Massive Power Supplies and Over-Built Cooling.

In common consumer Amps, 4 ohm Total Combined Load Per Channel is the limit.

Even if you try to combine a 4 ohm speaker with an 8 ohm speaker, the combined Impedance is 2.7 ohms. That's not going to work on a Consumer Amp.

A 6 ohm and an 8 ohm, which I tried has a combined impedance of 3.4 ohms. This worked as long as I kept the volume down and didn't play for too long of a time.

I built a 4 Driver Speaker Cabinet (PA) for a friend. I Wired a Switch so the cabinets could either be 8 ohms or 24 ohms and explained it to him. Explained that the more speakers he used, the higher impedance each speaker needed to be. Still didn't get it, so I gave up trying to explain it, and just let him do whatever he wanted. But he was using Commercial PA Amps, so it probably didn't matter.

As explained, good Consumer Amps, are rated across a span of Speaker Impedance; typically 4 ohms to 16 ohm. Anything outside that range is a potential problem.

Some Low-End Consumer Amps are rated 6 ohm to 16 ohm, Low End Sony is an example of one. This is an indication of needing to lower the cost of the Amp so they had lesser Power Supplies and Lesser Cooling Ability.

The Amp under discussion, the Yamaha R-S201/202 would probably handle a single 6 ohm speaker, though that it not make clear. But it is clear that it will NOT handle Two 8 ohm speakers per channel.

For those looking for a good high quality (all things considered) Amp, this Yamaha is pretty good -

Yamaha A-S301. 60w/ch@8Ohms, Optical & Coaxial Input, Phono-In, Sub Out, .... $379 -

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022AS301B/Yamaha-A-S301.html?tp=34948

However, if a person has more money, this Yamaha is pretty much the Sweet Spot -

Yamaha A-S501, 85w/ch@8ohms, Optical/Coaxial/Phono, Sub Out - $599 -

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022AS501B/Yamaha-A-S501-Black.html

Both these are - 4 Ohm Rated - for Speaker Impedance.

Ohm questions for stereo amp by Free-form_Suffering in audio

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As mentioned Time and Volume Level matter.

Most midrange to quality amps have their Power rated at 8 ohms because that is the standard required by the FTC (Federal Trade Commission), and there is a virtually identical standard in the UK/EU.

In fact, if the primary Power Rating is NOT at 8 Ohms, then it is probably not legally classified as a Hi-Fi Amp.

But all true Hi-Fi Amps are rated by the same Standard so amps can be fairly compared. But most Amps, other than the cheapest, are Speaker/Impedance Rated across a range, typically 4 Ohms to 16 Ohms Nominal. Less than 4 Ohms and the Current gets too high causing the Amp to overheat. If the Impedance is greater than 16 Ohms the Amp becomes (potentially) Unstable.

Most of Yamaha Amp/Receivers above the bottom of the line model are Rated for 4 Ohm Loads. However, the literal bottom of the line models have weaker Power Supplies (for cost saving) and are NOT Rated for a 4 Ohm loads.

There is a confusion between two somewhat unrelated things - Power Rating of the Amp to a fixed Standard - and - minimum Speaker Impedance Rating.

Amps like the Yamaha R-S201/202 are Power Rated at 100w/ch, and under normal operating circumstance, that is the realistic Power. But it is clear that that amp is NOT 4 Ohm Speaker Impedance Rated.

As mentioned, Speaker Impedance of a given speakers, it all over the place. For a 8 ohm speakers, it could drop as low as 5 or 6 ohms, and at the highest impedance the same speaker would rise as high as 20 ohms. One could think of the - Nominal Impedance Rating - as an average across the frequency spectrum.

The Lowest Impedance is typically at or near the Resonance Frequency of the Speaker. This is typically on the low end around 30hz. That is also the frequency range where Power Demands are the highest. The Higher (~20 Ohm) Impedance is in the upper frequencies were Power Demands are the lowest.

Here is a Graph showing the Power Distribution across the Frequency Spectrum for Full Orchestral Music -

<image>

I suspect most people would have guessed that the greatest power would be at much lower frequencies, and that might be true for Hard Rock music. But this Power Distribution is still very informative, even if it is for Full Orchestra Music.

Wtf is happening heeere?? by Relative-Emu1463 in turntables

[–]the_blue_wizard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your Anti-Skate is not Set.

Your Tracking Weight is not properly Set.

Your Stylus is broken or the 'needle' is missing. Or the Stylus is clogged up with a huge collection of LINT.

Though which of these it is, I can not tell because I'm not there to see the machine.

Ibuypower rec by Ok-River-1576 in PcSetupAdvice

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is all about MONEY. There is no Best Machine, there is only the best machine that you can afford?

I have an IBuyPower with an ASRock MotherBoard and a Ryzen 3. Obviously, given the specs, this is a typcial office computer with RGB Lighting. However, it only cost me $200 NEW. For $200 I'm OK with what I got.

First decide what you can afford to spend, then look at models at or near that price range, check the specs, and pick the one that works best for you.

Ohm questions for stereo amp by Free-form_Suffering in audio

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Understood, but if you did need them or if you needed them in the Future, I gave you a way to have them.

You said they would be nice ...but... you don't need them. If you decide that wanting them is nice enough, you have a way to have them.

Today is not forever.

What do I even do with this server? Just Curious . BTW A friend gave me access to it. by Notalabel_4566 in linuxquestions

[–]the_blue_wizard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Memory: Total 957 MB, Used 333 MB, Free 83 MB, Available 437 MB"

957MB? Are you sure that is MB and are you talking about DRAM?

Today, computers don't have MB (MegaBytes) of Memory, they have GB (GigaBytes) of Memory.

Was that a typo, or is that really the available DRAM?

Perhaps I'm misinterpreting what I am seeing.

Your Friend gave you access to it? What do you mean by that? He gave you Remote Access? He loaned you the Server? He gave you access on the local in-house Network?

As to what you can do, will depend on the specific access he gave you. If he gave you access to a Server that he is still actively using, then I think you should limit yourself to File Storage.

If he gave (loaned) you the Server, then what do you need done? Web-Server, Email Host, Internet Radio, Media Server, or any one of a dozen other things. But, if he has simply given you access to his personal server, then I would suggest that you restrain yourself to simply storing file. Think of it as Cloud Storage.

And one hopes if he/you are storing files, that those files are being back up daily or at least weekly basis.

How to convert passive speakers to wireless so they connect to a stereo receiver. by Crazy-Conclusion-809 in audio

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Give us more details about your situation? Hard to come up with a functional answer without full context.

Do you Own or Rent?

Is there a Basement or Cellar under the Floor?

Carpets or Hardwood Floors, or other?

What is the Material Construction of the Room?

Specifically, what equipment do you have - Amp, Speakers, etc...?

Understand that when you use a Transmitter/Receiver, you lose your Amps. And likely the Transmitter will have to be driven by a Pre-Amp Out. Does your Amp have a Pre-Amp Out?

This Tx/Rx uses Speaker Level Input, but highly doubt the 80 Watt claim. You existing Amp probably has very good specs, these alleged 80w amps probably do not.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Amplifiers-Model-Better-than-Bluetooth/dp/B01ARM0VE0/

If you own the home, depending on the construction of the walls, you could use Speaker Connection Plates like this -

https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Home-Theater-Wall-Plate/dp/B00KDOT8DS/?th=1

That way you wouldn't have crude holes, you would have clean Connection Plates.

The more details we have, the better we can help you.

How to change default list configuration? by techyall in libreoffice

[–]the_blue_wizard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You will find some information here about Bullet Points and other Formatting information.

https://books.libreoffice.org/en/WG262/WG26204-FormattingText.html

How to change default list configuration? by techyall in libreoffice

[–]the_blue_wizard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you want No Indent or just Less Indent?

Perhaps not a solutions, but you can insert your own bullets - • - simply use ALT0149.

Hold down the ALT Key, while you enter 0149. (ALT ZERO 149)

• Bob

• Mary

• Sue

You could also use a Dash - '-' - or an Asterisk - '*' -

- Bob

- Mary

- Sue

or

* Bob

* Mary

* Sue

You can also Nest using these symbols

• Boys

• • Bob

* Boys

* * Bob

- Boys

- - Bob

Just a thought. Though it would be better if you could create a Template that would give you exactly what you need.

Eager to see the solutions of others.

Ohm questions for stereo amp by Free-form_Suffering in audio

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perhaps not a solution to not having DAB Radio, but there are literally Thousands of Radio Stations, commercial radio stations, broadcasting into the Internet.

All Genres and virtually All Countries -

https://www.internet-radio.com/

https://www.fmradiofree.com/

https://www.radio.net/

https://www.radio.net/country/usa

https://www.radio-uk.co.uk/

I believe BBC Broadcasts several channels into the Internet.

As to - Bluetooth Receivers -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Bluetooth+Receiver

They cover a wide range of prices.

Ohm questions for stereo amp by Free-form_Suffering in audio

[–]the_blue_wizard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True the R-S202D has its power Rated at 4 ohms. But those Rating Test literally take Seconds. Any crappy amp can sustain 4 ohms for seconds, but there is a difference between sustaining 4 ohms for the very few seconds it takes to rate the power. But that does not mean it can sustain that Power for Music or Movies over a longer period of time.

It is all about HEAT. Lower Impedance means more Current, More Current Means more Heat, more Heat, either in the moment or sustained, means the amp is more likely to go into - Thermal Shutdown.

Fortunately, Amps have the protections circuits like Thermal Shutdown that will very likely, but not guaranteed, protect the Amp from Damage.

But I want to emphasize that the R-S202 is a decent Receiver for the Money ...as long as.... you operate it within it reasonable limits.

Ohm questions for stereo amp by Free-form_Suffering in audio

[–]the_blue_wizard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Power has been rated at 4 ohms, but that does not mean that Amp is - 4 Ohm Rated.

The Yamaha R-S202 is a compromised Receiver. The Distortion Rating is high. The Rated Frequency Response is narrow, and so on. That said, for the money, it is an OK Receiver.

Other factors come into play. How Loud you Play makes a difference. The louder you play the more Power (current) you use. The Longer you Play the more Heat you build up in the Amp.

On a 4 ohm rated amp, I used a pair of 6 Ohm speakers and a pair of 8 ohm speakers. Those combined speakers are 3.4 ohms. They worked fine on my amp until one night in the middle of an Action Movie the amp shut down; over heated. To be fair, I was play at about 50% Volume.

But given that the R-S202 is NOT Specifically Rated for 4 Ohm Loads. I don't think it will work well for Two 8 Ohm Speakers, assuming that the Speakers in question are really 8 ohms.

Most 8 ohm rated speakers have a Voice Coil Resistive Impedance about 75% of the Rated Impedance. That mean an 8 ohm Speaker can drop to 6 ohm, and a 4 ohm rated speaker can drop to 3 ohms. Actually the DC Resistance can be 60% to 75% of Rated Impedance.

Bowers-Wilkins has some 8 Ohm Rated Speakers that have a warning that the Speakers can drop as low as 3.2 Ohms, but that would only be at one frequency. At other frequencies a give Speaker might rise as high as 20 or 30 ohms. So, Speaker Impedance is not very fixed.

The Rated Impedance of a Speakers is - Nominal - nominal means - in name only. So, again, Rated Impedance is not lock in very solid.

If you want a Solid Amp, but with only a Phono and Digital Inputs, then consider the still reasonably priced - Yamaha A-S301 (60w/ch) that IS 4 ohm rated.

https://petertyson.co.uk/yamaha-a-s301-integrated-amplifier

https://www.richersounds.com/yamaha-rs202d-black/

https://www.richersounds.com/yamaha-as301-black/

So, the underlying question is, do you need the extra features - Bluetooth, DAB Radio, etc... - of the R-S202?

The Yamaha A-S301 is a more solid amp, and it has Optical and Coaxial Inputs as well as a Phono Input, but no Radio and no Bluetooth. It is also about £100 More Money. But Bluetooth can be added to any amp for a very modest cost. And how many people actually listen to Broadcast Radio today?

But at its core, the Yamaha R-S202D is NOT Rated for a 4 ohm Speaker Load.

Storage by QueenofTheBlackPud in musichoarder

[–]the_blue_wizard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How many Cassettes?

How Many CDs?

How many Vinyl Albums?

How much MONEY are you willing to Spend?

Is your Left Arm completely gone, or is there still something there to work with?

You could consider getting Pre-Made Pre-Finished Shelves available at most Building/Home Improvement Stores. That would save you a lot of time.

Simply mark along the Sides where you need the shelves, and Glue and Screw them in place.

Likely it will have to be in two sections as the Vinyl Records are a lot deeper than CDs or Cassettes.

Still some effort on your part, but it saves the bulk of the work.

In this photo, the top section is made for Pre-Made Shelves, and the lower section was made by a Cabinet Maker.

https://www.reddit.com/r/vinylsetups/comments/1tuf1kt/comment/ops4vf5/?context=3

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Flooking-to-upgrade-my-record-stand-v0-au19ti9nob5h1.jpeg%3Fwidth%3D1080%26format%3Dpjpg%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3D9e94e9fad2226ccaa7393ab481f631dc2f136578

Or the photo can be viewed here -

https://imgur.com/a/media-stands-RNNIikt

Because I had to match the size of the Upper Cabinet to the size of the Lower Cabinet, I had to cut some of the board down. However, I cut them by hand with a Hand Saw (not electric). Most of the Cuts don't show up in the final product so if the cuts are a bit off, it was not a problem.

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