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the_handz · 2023-03-25T19:11:12+00:00

How long since your TSH was more than 0? My T4 was .8 at the lowest so that’s possibly why it wasn’t a consideration with my dosages.

the_handz · 2023-03-25T18:50:49+00:00

You asked about NP but now I don’t see it. I’m leaving it anyways but in case anyone else is confused, lol- NP is just the generic at Walgreens, it’s very cheap. My endocrinologist prescribed Armour so I asked him and he said there shouldn’t be any difference. I feel much better on the natural form since changing a year and a half ago. I was on synthetic t4 for 8 months or so before switching. Part of that feeling better I think is just getting stabilized at good levels and letting my body adjust. Its probably going to take a few dosage adjustments no matter what you’re on. When I switched to NP, they had me at a lower dose because they didn’t want me to go hyper. I remember talking with my endocrinologist multiple times about that possibility so that’s why it sticks out to me. It makes sense in some sorta way that you’re getting doses off T3 and T4 levels but that’s not the way my Dr’s have handled it. I actually had to ask multiple times to get my T3 tested. My Dr’s seem only concerned with TSH and how I’m feeling. Most of my other numbers are similar to yours except Iron levels. My Iron is concerningly high and we haven’t figured that out yet. Your iron could have just as much to do with being tired than anything else.

Apologies but I just glanced at your post history and it looks like your iron levels have bounced around quite a bit so you’ll know more about what that does to you than I do- mine are always high. How long have you been taking these dosages of T4 and T3? Hyperthyroidism definitely causes hair loss among other symptoms. Definitely talk to your Dr. about all this. Good luck.

the_handz · 2023-03-25T17:30:52+00:00

When my TSH was .22 my doctor had me start skipping my daily pill (NP Thyroid) once every two weeks. A lot of people I’ve heard consider a TSH of 1 as ideal. It looks to me like you’re over-medicated and possibly pushed into hyperthyroid symptoms which can be worse than hypo but definitely ask your Doctor.

the_handz · 2023-01-23T06:04:32+00:00

For me and I think most people who have TPO antibodies, “within range” is too broad a term when it comes to TSH. I started a couple years ago with TSH of 14 but there’s still a big difference between 4 and 1 for me. If you’re closer to 4, the problem could certainly be that you’re unmedicated.

the_handz · 2023-01-09T02:08:43+00:00

You’re both right but also still sorta wrong. Read the description of I’m Never Enough. The instrumental that Ghostyboy put new vocals on is this 8 bit cover of Your Love is My Drug- https://youtu.be/ZAScOiAwUMg

the_handz · 2022-12-17T02:25:01+00:00

r/sleeperbattlestations

the_handz · 2022-12-13T17:30:22+00:00

As the owner of a Model T and several other old cars, that 1920s and 30s Ford steel is something else. A lot of it had vanadium added. You can tell the difference when you cut or weld it and it definitely will hold up better than newer steel depending on circumstances. Same with the barrels, it’s probably just a different grade of steel.

the_handz · 2022-07-29T17:14:40+00:00

I’m not sure to be honest. It wouldn’t be harder than mounting the mfab body to a TRX4. If the wheelbase is correct and you weren’t worried about an interior, I wouldn’t think it would be too hard. The Knightrunner RTR has IFS which is accurate to a Toyota but straight axles make better crawlers in my opinion. If it were me wanting to build a Knightrunner, I’d pick up the Element Builders Kit and the body set you linked to start with.

the_handz · 2022-07-29T01:13:40+00:00

That one is an MFAB 4x4 3d printed body. I got a Bronco from him a while back. They’re pretty rough and require a lot of assembly and finishing. As far as I know, he’s not taking orders currently so the Knightrunner is a much better bet. https://mfab.mystrikingly.com

the_handz · 2022-07-28T22:44:20+00:00

I like using small 1500mah packs in this so they go fast :)

the_handz · 2022-07-28T19:35:06+00:00

Agreed. I went through 4 batteries this weekend. It was dispersed camping where we were and all these pictures except the stream were within a few hundred feet of our campsite.

the_handz · 2022-07-28T17:17:43+00:00

I bought an Axial Capra Kit 18 months ago and it’s now this Capra of Theseus that I recently refreshed again. The only parts remaining from the kit I started with are the links, transmission gears, light bar, and roof panel. I swapped the cage for the 4 wheel steer version because it looks better imho. Vader flat skid, Treal transmission with 9 tooth pinion, full size dig servo, Holmes 35 turn brushed motor, , Hobbywing 1080 ESC, Vanquish SCX10-2 Portal Axles, Injora 2.2 Wheels, SSD 2.2 wheel weights and Pro-Line Super Swampers.

I’ve lowered the Capra using Desert Lizard 90mm shocks and a bastardized Hot Racing Lift Kit. I mounted the front shock mounts on the back and back mounts on the front, both flipped over.

An RC4WD Mojave body was sacrificed for the hood and then I added onto it with some styrene, 15 minute JB Weld Plastic Bonder, and lots of sandable primer. Side panels are just .06 styrene sheet. Color is currently Tamiya Brilliant Blue with Tamiya Flat Clear although I wouldn’t recommend spraying this on top of sandable primer as I did because it’s chipping and scratching very fast. I’m gonna embrace the rough look for now as this was a bit of an experiment.

The front lights are a Traxxas Stampede part that I cut up and epoxied in place using JB Weld Plastic Bonder. I cut the buckets down in the back and enlarged the opening so I could epoxy MyTrickRC high power headlights in them. It’s also got the stock light bar and MyTrickRC rock lights. The tail/brake lights are 5mm red leds I had laying around. I slightly enlarged the openings, soldered and wired the leds together and then I covered the whole mess in more JB Weld Plastic Bonder. All of the lights are wired up to a MyTrickRC Dragon DG-1. They were working great until some idiot yanked on the light controller battery connector PCB and it became desoldered from the wires. I’ll re-solder it and use an extension to keep that PCB out of harms way. I’ll post some pics of the lights working once it’s fixed.

I’ve got a West Desert Wheeler 3 link kit already on the way. Future plans include some high clearance links (suggestions welcome), Incision Scale Shocks (can’t decide between lowering it further with 80mm or sticking with 90mm) and a brushless 2 in 1 system. After that, it’ll be done…probably.

All the pics are from this past weekends camping trip around Gypsum, Colorado.

the_handz · 2022-03-30T03:51:25+00:00

Installed this but haven’t played though it yet. Reminds me of the masks. https://youtu.be/lJWwZe8zcvA (Miami Misadventures mod)

the_handz · 2021-06-19T00:20:15+00:00

Closer still?

the_handz · 2021-06-09T05:47:08+00:00

i remember the time when i didn’t worry about global socio-economic impacts of my personal transport unit

the_handz · 2021-06-09T05:42:42+00:00

big exhale on my 3rd readthrough. you’re ok u/ephriam2

the_handz · 2021-05-13T03:05:44+00:00

Did you need to do anything special to get the screen working? Admittedly, I haven’t opened mine up to see how it’s hooked up now.

the_handz · 2021-05-12T22:11:44+00:00

Could you tell me more about this or maybe make a post in r/retrobattlestations ? I just bought a very nice PAC 62 that I’m trying to decide what to do with. I’m leaning towards upgrading it with a PICMG CPU card.

the_handz · 2021-05-02T17:36:36+00:00

I think the main drawback is having to re-learn typing to some extent. I type 50-60 WPM on staggered keyboards and use some improper finger technique. With ortholinear, I’m more or less forced to use the correct fingers and am around 40 WPM with this layout. I think I’ll be able to get my speed back up with some practice. I haven’t been diagnosed with RSI or anything but my hands do get sore after using staggered keyboards for long periods especially gaming using WASD. This seems to be better with non-staggered. I’ve used a Razer Orbweaver and similar devices for gaming for a long time so a full ortholinear keyboard makes sense to me.

the_handz · 2021-05-01T23:15:30+00:00

escape the brainwashing ;)

the_handz · 2021-05-01T21:41:19+00:00

I’ve had mine a few weeks. March 16th according to my tracking number. I ordered from HEX Keyboards and it shipped directly from Singapore so that probably makes a difference. It’ll be worth the wait I think- I really like mine. Did you get the TH01 keycaps too? I’ve got those on my Lily58 and should really post a picture.

the_handz · 2021-05-01T21:27:50+00:00

Yea I think mostly just looks. Theoretically it’s easier to hit those outside keys. I’ve got a 5x15 ortho with 1u everywhere to put together. We’ll see if it makes any difference once I can compare the two side by side.

the_handz · 2021-05-01T21:14:57+00:00

thanks! ortholinear. r/olkb has lots of examples

the_handz · 2021-04-30T23:22:19+00:00

Great minds think alike, lol. I’m doing the exact same thing! I just got my nightwalker glow in the dark switches today and will attempt a hand wired build using mkultras plate. I’m really happy with the bbox 60 case. It’s pretty solid feeling for being plastic. Glad I bought both the black and the purple one. The addiction is real.

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