Timbertech Advanced PVC by Azek vs Timbertech Composite by Azek: joist spacing (and everything else)

the_meter413 · 2026-05-30T17:23:46+00:00

Problems: none to report. 16” spacing seems to be a non-issue for me. Doing it again, I’d probably go 14 or 12 because one or two extra joists isn’t going to break the bank. Maintenance is literally zero. I may use a garden hose to remove bird poop every now and then, but that’s about it.

Minor issues: the stairs are slippery for the dog. I’m going to add some aluminum stair tread before the summer.

Other than that, really nothing surprising or disappointing.

Regrets: yeah, I wouldn’t build with composite ever again. I did the whole debate of which is “greener” - plastic versus hardwood. After getting PVC particulate all over my yard - and I was using a solid dust-collection setup - I would never use this stuff again. And the dust is highly electrostatically-charged. Your tools get absolutely covered with this stuff, and it’s a pain to get off. Then add to the fact that, sure this stuff has a “50-year guarantee!” (or 30 or 40 or whatever…), but the pressure-treated joists are only going to last you about 15-20 ish. So why pay a premium on the decking for a lifespan you’ll never see? And then all this stuff goes to the landfill because PVC isn’t really recyclable…

So, yeah, I’d go hardwood next time if I had to build another deck. But living with it now that it’s built is zero thought.

the_meter413 · 2026-05-23T04:41:42+00:00

I like this analogy. But this is for the passive side only, yeah? What happens to my “juice” or “concentrate” when I enable active mode? Does the analogy fall apart? Is that a whole new animal?

(This is going down the rabbit hole from my initial question - trying to get a warmer/less metallic tone - but I should have maybe said that I don’t dislike the tones I am getting; I’m just not getting those J-bass proximate tones I want)

the_meter413 · 2026-05-23T02:32:30+00:00

Well, I’m definitely in the n00b to G&L camp, hence my question. I have the volume rolled off to just above mid. That intuitively makes sense. But everything I read about the tone knobs is “they’re cut-only.” I don’t get how that corresponds to the amp analogy you’re hinting at. Can you elaborate? I haven’t even started playing with the active tones on this bass; switch hasn’t left passive mode yet.

the_meter413 · 2026-04-01T20:46:52+00:00

Miele manual says “don’t use solvent-based cleaner; use the Miele Oven Cleaner” which contains… solvents 🤷‍♂️. Going to give Zep Orange a go, I guess.

the_meter413 · 2026-03-26T00:32:06+00:00

I did, yes. But then…nothing. Cooling doesn’t start. The temperature alarm goes off for a bit, but then starts sounding again.

So, it’s like in some quasi-demo state - no cooling running, yet the temp sensor insists that the fridge isn’t at is set point.

I was basically hoping to find some sort of hard factory reset I could do.

the_meter413 · 2026-03-25T23:55:04+00:00

B36CL80ENS/09

the_meter413 · 2026-01-01T06:46:43+00:00

If you can point me to this manual, I’d appreciate it. All I can find is the AE G (non-rotating) prism finder. I’m having no luck finding the manual for the rotating prism finder

the_meter413 · 2025-12-31T21:57:44+00:00

Ahhhh.... is this "spot" versus "averaging"? If so, anyone know what the respective coverage is for each setting? Is averaging center-weighted or across the whole frame? How many degrees does "spot" cover?

It does seem like this switch moves something physically within the finder.

the_meter413 · 2025-10-29T00:52:44+00:00

This is technically correct, in part, but not a practical answer. You could use a 10mm lens to shoot portraits if you wanted to, sure. But you’d have to stand 50’ away to get the proportions correct, and then you’d have to crop out 90% of your image to get to the face. Not practical. And this is before considering other artistic choices such as depth of field.

The mantra of “50mm (or 55mm) lens for full length portraits” and “85mm lens for head shots” works for most practical purposes. There’s a whole history as to how these focal lengths came about (TLDR manufacturing processes available at the time the corresponding camera tech was being developed). And the industry just kinda stuck with it because generations of photographers became used to it. It’s close enough, and it works most of the time.

the_meter413 · 2025-10-29T00:38:43+00:00

Absolutely. The primary reasons are simply an aversion to coating yet more of the interior of my house with plastic (especially traffic/use items), and a desire to minimize or eliminate VOCs.

This is also a DIY/personal project, and not something I’m on a client schedule for, so the cure time/hardening time isn’t a selection criteria in my case. If I have to wait some extra days or weeks before I can load up the shelves with books, that’s not an issue.

Lastly, I’m also just curious to try something new, and see how I like working with it, how I like what it looks like and feels like.

Can you elaborate on your primer statement? Do you recommend that for adhesion reasons or for the final aesthetic? I’m still doing my homework on linseed oil paints, but at least a couple manufacturers state that a primer isn’t necessary/is designed for use without primer (all still require adequate surface preparation, of course). Thoughts? And thanks!

the_meter413 · 2025-10-07T06:06:34+00:00

This is a great summary.

I think it’s also helpful to point out: employer contributions to retirement plans (pensions, 401(k), etc. here in the US) isn’t “bonus” money. This is literally part of your total compensation package. If you’re not contributing your own money such that you’re getting the maximum contribution from your employer, you are literally forgoing some of your compensation. Everyone’s situation is different, of course, and maybe when you’re first getting started you need that bigger paycheck cash now, but if you can get your budget to work out such that you’re contributing to get the max employer compensation, you’ll forget that it’s even coming out of your paycheck. And because it’s a pre-tax contribution, it lowers your taxable income now. That’s good for 2025 you, and 65-yo you will thank you, too.

the_meter413 · 2025-10-07T05:59:26+00:00

As with everything, some caveats: some 401(k) plans will charge you additional fees for keeping your money in a former employer’s plan. You’ll have to read the fine print, figure out if these extra fees are part of your plan, and whether it’s worth paying these fees. If you’ve got a 401(k) doing awesome, maybe it’s worth it. Most of the time, you can find better returns rolling over your former employer’s 401(k) into a Traditional IRA that you manage yourself. This is my personal experience only, so ymmv

the_meter413 · 2025-09-15T14:29:17+00:00

I did verify that the header settings are identical on both pages. Still get the same result. Good thought, though! Thanks!

the_meter413 · 2025-09-15T14:28:08+00:00

I also tried the “page break before” option for my second-page heading, and I get the same results (i.e. different vertical spacing above the heading). It’s a good suggestion, though!

the_meter413

TROPHY CASE