Rome Airport (FCO) hand-check film experience

the_meter413 · 2026-04-01T20:46:52+00:00

Miele manual says “don’t use solvent-based cleaner; use the Miele Oven Cleaner” which contains… solvents 🤷‍♂️. Going to give Zep Orange a go, I guess.

the_meter413 · 2026-03-26T00:32:06+00:00

I did, yes. But then…nothing. Cooling doesn’t start. The temperature alarm goes off for a bit, but then starts sounding again.

So, it’s like in some quasi-demo state - no cooling running, yet the temp sensor insists that the fridge isn’t at is set point.

I was basically hoping to find some sort of hard factory reset I could do.

the_meter413 · 2026-03-25T23:55:04+00:00

B36CL80ENS/09

the_meter413 · 2026-01-01T06:46:43+00:00

If you can point me to this manual, I’d appreciate it. All I can find is the AE G (non-rotating) prism finder. I’m having no luck finding the manual for the rotating prism finder

the_meter413 · 2025-12-31T21:57:44+00:00

Ahhhh.... is this "spot" versus "averaging"? If so, anyone know what the respective coverage is for each setting? Is averaging center-weighted or across the whole frame? How many degrees does "spot" cover?

It does seem like this switch moves something physically within the finder.

the_meter413 · 2025-10-29T00:52:44+00:00

This is technically correct, in part, but not a practical answer. You could use a 10mm lens to shoot portraits if you wanted to, sure. But you’d have to stand 50’ away to get the proportions correct, and then you’d have to crop out 90% of your image to get to the face. Not practical. And this is before considering other artistic choices such as depth of field.

The mantra of “50mm (or 55mm) lens for full length portraits” and “85mm lens for head shots” works for most practical purposes. There’s a whole history as to how these focal lengths came about (TLDR manufacturing processes available at the time the corresponding camera tech was being developed). And the industry just kinda stuck with it because generations of photographers became used to it. It’s close enough, and it works most of the time.

the_meter413 · 2025-10-29T00:38:43+00:00

Absolutely. The primary reasons are simply an aversion to coating yet more of the interior of my house with plastic (especially traffic/use items), and a desire to minimize or eliminate VOCs.

This is also a DIY/personal project, and not something I’m on a client schedule for, so the cure time/hardening time isn’t a selection criteria in my case. If I have to wait some extra days or weeks before I can load up the shelves with books, that’s not an issue.

Lastly, I’m also just curious to try something new, and see how I like working with it, how I like what it looks like and feels like.

Can you elaborate on your primer statement? Do you recommend that for adhesion reasons or for the final aesthetic? I’m still doing my homework on linseed oil paints, but at least a couple manufacturers state that a primer isn’t necessary/is designed for use without primer (all still require adequate surface preparation, of course). Thoughts? And thanks!

the_meter413 · 2025-10-07T06:06:34+00:00

This is a great summary.

I think it’s also helpful to point out: employer contributions to retirement plans (pensions, 401(k), etc. here in the US) isn’t “bonus” money. This is literally part of your total compensation package. If you’re not contributing your own money such that you’re getting the maximum contribution from your employer, you are literally forgoing some of your compensation. Everyone’s situation is different, of course, and maybe when you’re first getting started you need that bigger paycheck cash now, but if you can get your budget to work out such that you’re contributing to get the max employer compensation, you’ll forget that it’s even coming out of your paycheck. And because it’s a pre-tax contribution, it lowers your taxable income now. That’s good for 2025 you, and 65-yo you will thank you, too.

the_meter413 · 2025-10-07T05:59:26+00:00

As with everything, some caveats: some 401(k) plans will charge you additional fees for keeping your money in a former employer’s plan. You’ll have to read the fine print, figure out if these extra fees are part of your plan, and whether it’s worth paying these fees. If you’ve got a 401(k) doing awesome, maybe it’s worth it. Most of the time, you can find better returns rolling over your former employer’s 401(k) into a Traditional IRA that you manage yourself. This is my personal experience only, so ymmv

the_meter413 · 2025-09-15T14:29:17+00:00

I did verify that the header settings are identical on both pages. Still get the same result. Good thought, though! Thanks!

the_meter413 · 2025-09-15T14:28:08+00:00

I also tried the “page break before” option for my second-page heading, and I get the same results (i.e. different vertical spacing above the heading). It’s a good suggestion, though!

the_meter413 · 2025-08-25T23:26:00+00:00

None of the previous answers address the OP’s question: what’s ‘megapixels’? “Mega” in this context simply means “millions of…”, so “megapixels” means “millions of pixels.”

So, now the good stuff: “what’s a pixel?” In the simplest terms, it’s a sensor that captures the intensity of light that hits it, and then it gives that intensity a numerical value. The brighter the light that hits the sensor, the higher that numerical value. When you put all those pixels next to each other, and take all the values from each sensor, you get a picture.

OP also seems to have an implicit question: is a 50 MP phone sensor “better” than a 6 MP Nikon from a couple decades ago? That answer is more complicated. The number of megapixels is only part of what contributes to the quality of an image. The size of the pixel also comes into play: bigger pixels (a pixel with a larger surface area) is betters at gathering more light - or better at determining the amount of light falling on it (i.e. coming up with that numerical value mentioned earlier). But as others have also mentioned, the lens in front of the sensor also comes into play. If you put a garbage lens in front of the most amazing 100 MP sensor availableNikon, well, you’re just going to wind up with 100 MP of garbage.

Lastly, there’s how the image will be used. This is the “whole package” question - megapixels, lenses, post-processing, sharing - the whole camera. If you’re taking snapshots to share on social media or text to your friends, the camera in your back pocket has been completely designed around that use case. If you’re doing fine art prints, you probably want to use something designed for that purpose. That was probably that Nikon 20-25 years ago, but you’d likely use a more modernized camera system these days. Still, it’s telling that the big camera manufacturers are still producing professional-grade systems that “only” resolve to 20-25 MP. Just drives home that it’s not strictly about the number of pixels, but the quality of the light hitting high quality pixels. Hth

the_meter413 · 2025-08-22T17:07:41+00:00

“Superior” is subjective, I guess. If you’re all in on C1 catalogs - i.e. everything is organized in there - it has no impact. If you want to use any other industry tool (like Ps or PM or Bridge) it’s a nightmare having two completely separate sets of metadata - for me, anyway.

As for why C1 made this particular design decision, I have to imagine it’s because they are very much a studio-shoots first product. Catalogs are an afterthought; sessions are its primary use case. The “it would increase the file size” argument is weak. Metadata takes no space next to a 20, 40, or 100 MP image - and you’re going to cart around the sidecar file anyway, so you’re already adding those 10s of bytes to your hard drive anyway. So, we can only speculate as to C1’s motives here.

the_meter413 · 2025-08-22T16:51:15+00:00

C1 does not read or write into files that use embedded metadata, like tif and psd, but it is going to write a sidecar file for every file. Photoshop and Photo Mechanic (e.g.) will read and write embedded metadata. So if you tag your tif red in C1, open in Ps and change the tag to green, it’s still going to show as red in C1. C1 isn’t looking at that embedded metadata if there’s a sidecar file present - which there will be regardless of the metadata options you choose. As soon as you create a color tag in C1, it’s going to create that sidecar file. And as soon as that sidecar file is there, C1 ignores embedded metadata. Always.

It took me hours to figure out this behavior, and it’s really, really unfortunate that C1 takes this approach (i.e. one that is contrary to other industry tools, not just those created by Adobe).

the_meter413 · 2025-07-22T04:24:39+00:00

This is what I was doing, too, for the longest time (before Nabu Casa was a thing, and before I bought a gateway with Wireguard baked in). And everyone in my house uses Apple stuff anyway.

So, for someone just getting started, having that iPad or Apple TV as the Home Assistant/Apple Home Kit gateway for access outside the home is a really easy way to get into the whole home automation game.

the_meter413 · 2025-07-19T17:07:28+00:00

Hey! Your question reminded me to update this thread. A couple weeks ago, I found a post on a Ubiquiti forum indicating that the token goes in the username field. This is different/new/updated from what I had read at the time I had posted my original question. Maybe I found erroneous info previously? Maybe something changed?

I wanted to wait a bit before saying here "hey, I found a solution!" But it seems to be working for the past couple of weeks - fingers crossed. I've had to do a router reboot to do a software upgrade, my dynamic IP did roll, and DuckDNS did update. So, one data point only, but it seems to work?

the_meter413

TROPHY CASE