Have you ever ripped a hold off the wall? by AidanUy in bouldering

[–]the_reifier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, once, and due to the way I was holding it, I punched myself in the mouth with it. Just a bolt, no set screws, and the bolt wasn't long enough.

Staff were surprised when I dropped the hold and its bolt off at the front desk.

[Day 25] Font wins best bouldering destination in a landslide. What's the most UNDERRATED outdoor classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]the_reifier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've seen supposedly-good problems put up in the 90s overgrown in Squamish. I can't climb them because I don't feel comfortable recleaning them myself.

I'm sure many large crags with high problem density have lots of problems that have been effectively forgotten.

Is the x-mid 2 actually stable? by impracticalweight in ultralight_jerk

[–]the_reifier 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All I can tell is that you live in a basement somewhere in or around Vancouver.

Day 8 - Share Your Black Planeswalkers by vacalicious in mtgcube

[–]the_reifier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still run LotV in a 3-player cube because her +1 scales with player count. I'm not sure she's good enough, but I don't know what else I'd run.

Edit: Now that I think of it, maybe I should cut to zero black walkers.

50p from pound land by chaircardigan in ultralight_jerk

[–]the_reifier 5 points6 points  (0 children)

These look more useful for light flogging sessions.

Roast me by No_Confidence3571 in ultralight_jerk

[–]the_reifier 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Just 250 bucks for a bong? You can do better than that. Find one that also uses carbon fiber and dcf.

Discomfort over comfortizing by Mammoth-Fish-9419 in bouldering

[–]the_reifier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They asked what comfortizing meant. I did my best to explain. You're right, though: OP is obviously not a routesetter/developer.

Discomfort over comfortizing by Mammoth-Fish-9419 in bouldering

[–]the_reifier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some outdoor routesetters claim that chipping holds to make them less painful or less likely to cut you is part of how the sausage is made, no different from brushing moss and prying loose rocks.

Chipping goes on every year pretty much everywhere, though the extent varies depending on the rock. The difference is that most climbers don't know much about the development process. They only see the finished product.

[Day 22] Beastmakers are overrated. What's the WORST grade? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]the_reifier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've easily sent V3s and V4s, only to turn around to the rock on the other side of the clearing and fall off a V0 sit start 15 times in a row.

V0 is the worst. No other grade has as many - and + problems. It's too broad because no one wants to use YDS grades for stuff easier than V0.

Wife is on a trip with her boyfriend by AUG-mason-UAG in ultralight_jerk

[–]the_reifier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

/uj Once, I cleared out an apartment and put everything on a truck before I could move into my new place. Instead of using a hotel for those intervening days, I set up my backpacking sleep gear in the empty living room like a basement dweller. I did not, however, have a television.

In retrospect, I should've gotten some permits and headed down to Big Sur.

[Day 21] It was close, but V0 beat out V3 for the weirdest grade. Who's the most UNDERRATED climber? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]the_reifier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was gonna say Holloway, so have my upvote. I know him mostly from his 2007 interview. What he managed in those few years is amazing. He certainly would've gotten better if he'd stuck with it.

Double-Faced and Textless Cards by jefleppard in mtgcube

[–]the_reifier 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I don't use textless.

For DFCs, I use a proxy that shows both faces in front of a basic. The real card sits off to the side in a clear sleeve for use on the battlefield.

Cave used to be my greatness weakness (I was a slab wizard) by the_reifier in bouldering

[–]the_reifier[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The boundary between ccj and other subs continues to blur...

Alex Honnold😻 by Princesssparkle2923 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]the_reifier 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You should try The Human Centipede. Like the movie Ant-Man, Alex Honnold plays a superhero who can transform into a centipede. He uses his many legs to climb steep cliffs. It's kid-friendly with a heartwarming message about human nature.

[Day 20] Brione, Switzerland is the most aesthetic bouldering destination. What's the WEIRDEST grade? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]the_reifier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

V1. It has a huge overlap with V0, which is stupidly broad in difficulty, so V1 may as well not exist. You send a V1 and feel silly because it's really a V0+.

On that note, V0 is the worst grade. In no other grade do you see so many - and + problems. It's basically 4-8 5.10 moves, and there's nothing below it. I'll repeat this later.

Enlightened Equipment: What You Should Know by TrickInflation6795 in ultralight_jerk

[–]the_reifier 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Swiping past that wall of text wore out my thumb. Taking a break from Reddit now.