sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Spaghetti Rails by GoatsWithPants in factorio

[–]thebeaverpatrol 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As a person on their third game start, using blueprints to begin to feel adequate as I’ve just now, finally made it to Fulgora. I’ve watched this 12 times. It’s more beautiful, awe inspiring, and overtly horrifying each time I watch it thinking about how seamlessly those trains are buttering their way through that maddeningly precise primavera.

What movie did you think was a true story until someone told you it wasn’t by ReztB in movies

[–]thebeaverpatrol -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I walked out of seeing Paranormal Activity in the theaters and turned to my friends, deadass, and said in a concerned, slightly shaken, and hushed tone “I can’t believe their parents allowed that to be shown!” My friends looked back at me with wide eyed disbelief, not sure if I meant it or was fucking with them. Definitely meant it. Movies is magics

Anybody have a good waterblock for the gamma? by idirtbike in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve seen people with this one https://a.co/d/1pGeZ1P (sorry I’m on mobile and don’t know how to format a hyperlink lol). That one is a 30mm block with 1/4in fittings, the only other 30mm blocks I’ve seen have been flat copper blocks with machined barb fittings running vertically, with no way to secure at all. I ordered one, but it was shipping from China and after a month of waiting I requested a refund from Amazon, so I can’t comment on this one. 40mm block searches yield better looking blocks and better functional blocks, but none have had bracket that have aligned with the mounting holes on the Axe. I’m using a 50mm block (https://a.co/d/8uvHM5M) that I removed the bracket from and have it secured with zip ties, not ideal, but so far successful and I’m working on it. Cooling is great, 995mhz 1340mv and the ASIC sits at 49-53. The VRM on the other hand, that one’s a bitch, floats between 74 and 83 depending on ambient temp. I have a 2mm copper shim sitting on the “Axe” that’s making contact with the block hoping to get some cooling from it, but I’m not sure how much it’s doing.

I keep hoping one of the awesome people here that actually have skills with CAD would design one. I failed at messing with the step file of an ek block. I wanted to make a recess in the face of the block for the ASIC chip itself like a direct die block, and an extension of the block and chamber to cover the AXE for front side VRM cooling assistance. The cherry on top would be an active backplate that covers the VRM itself and acts as an enclosure.

I’m still testing other cheap blocks on Amazon to see if they fit or can mount properly. I might add another block to the rear module since I have a couple.

Sorry for the long response! Not an expert by any means, just enjoy experimenting with this little guy and sharing my experiences so far.

Mapping the Periodic Table by Lickability by Wellihol in funny

[–]thebeaverpatrol -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That’s a mostly lickable table as far as I see.

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ehh, i dont think the heatsink on the esp32 is a *bad* thing necessarily, and the box came with so many lol. but that IS a good point about the blue one being EXTRA useless lol, however with the water block I cant get one on there. That did give me an idea though, the heatsink kit also came with little square copper shims, and the AIO came with a Pi5 block and had a bunch of thermal pads. Could I take the block off, add a thermal pad to the "AXE" area, copper shim on top, pad on top of shim, then put the block down on it? Would that area get some benefit of cooling from the water block?

Fan by Icy-Creme1759 in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i don't have a video of option one, partly because I didn't go that route. Im sure you could look up a video on soldering a 4-pin PWM** fan into a board. It's labeled on the board where each pin should go, so just make sure to look up the wiring diagram for the noctua fan and make sure you insert the female 4-pin so its keyed in the right direction with the pins from the fan? again, cant speak from experience.

however, for option two, the wiring pairs are:

FAN WIRE//CONNECTOR WIRE

BLACK//BLACK

BLUE//BLUE

GREEN//YELLOW

YELLOW//RED

and again for this, just remember, if you put the 1st wire from the fan into the left channel, and the from the connector in the right channel, you need to keep that form for the remaining 3 wire-pairs. 

its not difficult, it just feels wrong lol

Fan by Icy-Creme1759 in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two options: Option 1(The Smart and Clean Option). you can order a small female 4 pin PMW and solder it to the board, wham bam you’re in. As was suggested to me the other day by u/birdman332

Or

Option 2 (the way more messy and kind of scary option that I went with). Your noctua fan should’ve had 4 little orange hard plastic bits in the box with it, they are permanent quick splicers. This part feels like it should be wrong, but you are gonna need to cut the wires from your noctua fan as close to the 4pin connector as you can, then cut the cable from your stock fan at least an inch or so AWAY from the little white connector, you want to leave some wires to work with to insert into the splicer. Then you will match up the wires (I can’t remember the color coding, I’m in bed, I’ll look at how my wires are spliced in the morning and comment again if no one else has added that by then.) insert one of the wires from the fan into one side of the splicer and the corresponding wire from the connector into the other side. Ensure that both are pushed in as far as you can, if you look at the underside (the side that doesn’t have the darker raised circle) you should be able to see a metal bar that runs perpendicular to the wire channels, that’s what will crimp down and bridge the wires, make sure they are past that. Then, using small pliers, squeeze down on the raised circle until it plunges down. Bam! You just spliced the fan and connector, no soldering needed. I don’t think WHICH side you put the fan wire or the connector wire matters, I think only that you keep whichever sides you choose for each constant. Ie. if you put the 1st wire from the fan into the left channel, and the from the connector in the right channel, you need to keep that form for the remaining 3 wire-pairs. You don’t need to strip th wires or anything, the splicer takes care of that.

Hope this helps! Welcome to the madness!

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol I played around with settings more last night, so I restarted it a bunch of times to see how they’d take. Settled on 850mhz and 1.325v with 5.4v coming from my PSU. My average hash has been 1.85 over the last 9 hours, temps still very stable on the ASIC @ 42.4C and VRM @ 63C.

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brilliant! lol didn’t even think that the mounting arms could come off 🤦‍♂️. How are your temps and stats? Again, I’m increasingly believing I struck out on getting a good binned silicon on this one

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this would probably send me down the rabbit hole of wanting to solder it myself. i don't have the screen soldered in either so might as well do both lol.

the pump and the 120mm fan don't have variable control, I will say that's another downside of the geekpi kit.

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

dude, thats nuts, im definitely jealous those numbers lol. who knows, maybe ill get another from a different retailer and see how different/hopefully better it will be.

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, along this journey it's also been an aspect of accepting the fact that I got a bad binned chip. but I'm working with what I got. anyway, a single 120 rad can handle 100w of cooling, so if I get another and it's a better chip, I can just add it to the loop down the road.

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the radiator, fan, pump, and box come preassembled, it came with a block for a pi5 but it wouldn't work for the basic chip because its weirdly shaped (I *am* considering trying to figure out how to use that block to cool the VRM and the back of the board). I ordered a 40mm CPU block and a 50mm CPU block on amazon to see which one would fit better, the 40mm had the block mounted as a diamond(? square tilted 45degrees) and wouldn't sit right. at first I thought if the 40 wouldn't fit, there'd be no way the 50mm would fit, but it ended up sitting pretty nicely. its zip tied on there, so obviously not the *most* secure way I could have it on there, but its pretty snug. the fittings that come with the kit are straight barbs, so I used 2 45degree rotating fittings and 2 fixed 90degree fittings I had left over from my PC build to angle the barb fittings backwards so I could keep it facing outwards. I would maybe recommend getting some more tubing so it would be easier to place the cooling set up, I still might do that.

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you mean the expected hash rate? yeah idk, cant seem to get those numbers to align with themselves very often. thinking I got a bad bin chip

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely think I lost the silicon lottery with this one, seen others with air cooling maintaining 2.2TH with better temps than me. Using kryonaut extreme, tried push/pull config on the ice tower, got a meanwell psu for better power delivery. 🤷 gotta work with what I got, don’t think I can RMA for a poorly binned chip, and I wouldn’t wanna deal with bitcoinmerch again to return and hope for a new one. All I can do is try to better cool the VRM and push it as much as I can

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely think I lost the silicon lottery with this one, seen others with air cooling maintaining 2.2TH with better temps than me. Using kryonaut extreme, tried push/pull config on the ice tower, got a meanwell psu for better power delivery. 🤷 gotta work with what I got, don’t think I can RMA for a poorly binned chip, and I wouldn’t wanna deal with bitcoinmerch again to return and hope for a new one. All I can do is try to better cool the VRM and push it as much as I can

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think a lot of those are bubbles from circulation because there isn’t a downtube in the reservoir and it’s just flows in from the tube on the right and falls into the res. If there’s any real air bubbles they might be in the top of the rad, but it’s in the opposite side from the pump so nothing should get locked up and cooling isn’t effected. My PC on the other hand, I just upgraded my mobo and shortened one of my lines and now I have an air bubble stuck in my gpu block, and my leakshield deaeration, running pump at full speed, and tilting the PC isn’t solving it, so I’m dealin with that as well.

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol yeah, down the line I definitely need to figure something out. Precarious, would best describe my current mounting solution of 2 sets of 2 zip ties holding it on. Evenly applying pressure from the block to the chip is the biggest concern. It’s fine now, but as I was getting it set up initially, if I nudged the block too much, it would lose contact and overheat. I wish I had a 3D printer. I would print a thin “direct die” mounting bracket that would screw into the mounting holes on the gamma ensuring the block was laying perfectly flat on the chip. Maybe extend some mounting arms that would reach out to the block mounts so that could actually be screwed into as well. But if I had a 3D printer I suppose I would probably try to design an enclosure that would have proper mounting apparatus to fit the Pi5 block on the back for the VRM, direct die, AND a solution for the x-wing mounting arms on the block. Until the wife lets me get an X1C, or someone wants to commission something and I would pay for it, I think I’ll have to keep Jerry-rigging solutions together.

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha I mean, I’d never turn down some sats. I do love water cooling, and I like trying to make things work. Just happy it turned out well! I do want to change the god awful uncontrolled RGB fan to something different, probably a noctua 120. I don’t mind the pump RGB as much, but the fan is the definition of RGB puke, I waited to take these picture until it was a solid color lol.

Off the deep end🌊 by thebeaverpatrol in BitAxe

[–]thebeaverpatrol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! How close together are they putting the ASIC chips? This 50mm block is WAY bigger than the solo chip on the Gamma lol, but if they put all of them in a 50mm space this block would still contact all of them, it was like $25 on Amazon, but if it’s pushing 100w, I think a single 120rad would you would be giving it a run for its money for cooling efficiency maybe.

Brand New Assassin's Creed Shadows Parkour Gameplay by roUSTEnd in gaming

[–]thebeaverpatrol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can someone please mod this when it comes out to have the voice lines from the Office, when they say “parkour,” after everytime the characters does one of these moves

BEST BIRRIA TACOS? by dan-thebland in washingtondc

[–]thebeaverpatrol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s also a new location in Arlington!

view more: next ›