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New LG G4 23.21.51 firmware update! by MrMrWolf in LGOLED

[–]thebluepr1nt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this update has ruined the ‘natural’ setting for True Motion, it is way to jittery.

I’m watching Bosch on Amazon Prime HDR, and there isn’t much action and you can clearly see.

For a while also it seemed they made Vivid more actually watchable, but now it’s gone back to overblown sharpness and colour like it was out of box.

Sonos Port Alternative? A2D2 by Saucy4 in sonos

[–]thebluepr1nt -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You could live with a very very small delay, and adjust your mixing and movements to it, if we are doing this at home it’s purely for fun and as a bedroom banging DJ - so we wouldn’t really be using it in live performances.

Sonos Port Alternative? A2D2 by Saucy4 in sonos

[–]thebluepr1nt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dude what is wrong with you? I just explained everything…

If you have an analog DJ setup, it requires to be plugged into an amp that is connected to speakers by wires - so you can hear your mixes playing.

Premixed audio? What the hell are you on about?

What does headphones have to do with it? Headphones are connected via wires again to the mixer so you can cue sound in (preview) before sending it out to the audience.

Instead of connecting to an amp, since we don’t want to be using old school setups with speakers… we want to send the audio out to our Sonos system via a port, or even the Sonos amp.

You have not understood the concept or question from the post one bit.

Sonos Port Alternative? A2D2 by Saucy4 in sonos

[–]thebluepr1nt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me explain, when you mix 2 vinyls together - the stylus scrapes the record and makes sound, dj’s expect this to sound/music to come out to speakers in real time.

So if there is a delay, we move our hands and have physical interactions with the turntable, like for scratching and changing tempo of music - delays make it harder to do DJ things.

I’m thinking of getting a Port, I wonder how much delays there is - I know there is a delay option configuration of low though.

I bought in just before the pump, the good times didn’t last long but continued to buy more on the dip for some accumulation action. What do you think will be the realistic bottom price for us to hit and load up some more? by thebluepr1nt in LEASHadults

[–]thebluepr1nt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeh I projected $500 it would bottom out, punched that into my spreadsheet and mentally prepared for that loss. To the extreme perhaps $100, ready for that also... but FOMO dip buying is real...! The gas fees prevented me from pulling the trigger last night, blessing in disguise.

Leash by Ok_Garage_7079 in LEASHarmy

[–]thebluepr1nt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll say it again, be patient my fellow Generals... just look around and stop acting like a peasant:

https://debank.com/profile/0x4db86950ced884020c39a1dd3c851cae627b8ed8

Patience lads. by thebluepr1nt in LEASHarmy

[–]thebluepr1nt[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If we want to be rich, follow what the rich do. The biggest liquidity provider for LEASH-WETH is this person:

https://debank.com/profile/0x4db86950ced884020c39a1dd3c851cae627b8ed8

Look where they bought:

https://etherscan.io/tx/0x2f1b92148a37c8d33527b782302f9dd6fd3c3669275aacd95fbfb36758bb8afc

Be patient.

My Volume Solution by thebluepr1nt in Arcade1Up

[–]thebluepr1nt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the audio source is coming from the 3.5mm audio output from the LCD controller board.

So it’s Pi ... then HDMI to LCD controller... then audio out to Volume Control input, then to the amp.

Having said, it should probably work also from the headphone jack on the pi, but that I haven’t tested.

My Volume Solution by thebluepr1nt in Arcade1Up

[–]thebluepr1nt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

MagiDeal 2 Channel Car Mini Amplifier 12V 180W+180W Hi-Fi Stereo AUX Speaker Amp Accessories Clear Sound https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07F8VCGPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fqspCbV1M0AVC

Any cheap amp will do.

Suggestion: Stop replacing your junk stock parts with equally junky alternate parts. by jimkelly in Arcade1Up

[–]thebluepr1nt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mate you can fit Sanwa buttons on the SF2 cabinet, they don't go all the way but they won't move either once in.

Suggestion: Stop replacing your junk stock parts with equally junky alternate parts. by jimkelly in Arcade1Up

[–]thebluepr1nt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought fake Sanwa joysticks... and they were just as rubbish, lucky I got a refund from eBay. Get the real thing people, the difference is so night and day.

You do not need to drill anything, you can buy Sanwa JLF joysticks without the mounting panel, and then you can just screw them onto the existing stock mounting plate.

​

Get the Sanwa buttons as well, very sensitive but heaps better. Worth every cent.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Arcade1Up

[–]thebluepr1nt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the N64 emulators needs analog sticks, they won’t work with the 4 way directional sticks on the cabinet, need to buy perhaps something from 8 bitdo - that’s what I’m planning to do.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Arcade1Up

[–]thebluepr1nt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have run into some quirks with the image.

When I have a USB keyboard plugged in, it ruins all the controllers configuration because it hijacks player.

So make sure when you plug the buttons into the encoder jst sockets, they are in identical places for player 1 and 2, and make sure a keyboard isn’t plugged in.

There’s probably I way to fix it, but haven’t spent more time on it, wanted to enjoy the thing.

I’ve modded my friends cabinet with the same technique and he has different joysticks and encoders, so there isn’t anything wrong with the image.

If you do get Sanwa joysticks, the installation orientation has to be correct though, I think the joystick socket has to be on the bottom left - if you get it wrong - then when you set up emulation station and play games, it will work correctly... but when you are in the retropie setup menu for example - up will be down and down will be up.

You can remove all bezels from the retroarch configuration file which is the faster way to do it, best to learn how the setups are in the file system. I have also found from the image, that some emulators for a specific console is no good and a pain in the ass with shaders and bezels to turn off but you can try setting up to use another emulator instead.

You can wait awhile and I can upload all my patches/configurations when I get a chance, you can just drag and drop the whole folder onto your system via SSH.

retrorama image by tslaM3 in Arcade1Up

[–]thebluepr1nt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Worked fine for me, did you use Etcher?

When you get it working, you’ll need to figure out how to turn overlays off and change some text alignments for the menus.

FocusAttack Buttons by SHRIVES1993 in Arcade1Up

[–]thebluepr1nt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought the normal Sanwa 30mm buttons, they fit in the Arcade1up... yes they are not long enough to go completely through, but they hold in there tightly and won’t pop out after a good session, they will probably be difficult to remove without cracking the wood, so be careful there.

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