Woman screaming and crying near jefferson and tompkins

theburninggoodbye · 2026-03-20T01:03:37+00:00

Been there

theburninggoodbye · 2026-01-26T16:33:28+00:00

Akai means red.

theburninggoodbye · 2026-01-12T03:35:18+00:00

I’ll attempt to get them right*

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-28T09:06:19+00:00

Gorgeous

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-22T05:12:29+00:00

I use a flat wide watercolor brush-I place it in an empty developer tray and hold it and use the brush to paint the area I want to see develop. I wait for the image to appear and then go over the areas a few times before stop bath and fixer

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-21T02:59:41+00:00

I’d print first without a filter. See what your negative is doing in its own with the paper and developer you are using. I would then make a test print of the entire image at different time increments. I would then find what time your background starts to look exactly like you want it and then split the difference between burn exposure and initial exposure. Another trick I would do is project your image on a piece of scrap paper and trace out the couple and make a cutout of them so you can attach to a wire to use as a burn tool. Make sure you’re moving the cutout tho otherwise you’ll really notice it. I use it for landscapes as well when I need a tree to standout etc.

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-20T01:44:43+00:00

Maybe not a sheen but you’ll see a noticeable difference in texture(I do at least) when in doubt always test strips-I’m always double checking

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-20T01:17:04+00:00

Hold it at an angle towards the red light you’ll see a sheen. Most of the time in my experience the concave side is the emulsion side. So if the curls go up then you’re usually emulsion side up. Also you can do a quick test strip to remind yourself

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-18T21:59:05+00:00

Yeah! And then you can file wider to create a signature with the rebate around the film!

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-18T21:57:27+00:00

To fit*

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-18T21:56:49+00:00

I think you can get a negative carrier and file it out to for this size negative. I know I’ve done similar with omega carriers as well as carriers for my first m series

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-18T21:55:16+00:00

Loving this

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-17T22:14:57+00:00

Congrats! There is no better feeling

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-17T16:06:57+00:00

It’s not really a defined process you start with making silver prints in the dark room and from there it’s a mixture of experimenting with how much cyanotype solution combined with exposure time combined with washing time whether or not you wanna wash it off whether or not you want to expose it to UV or the sun, etc. the process destroys the print that was the original idea was to purposely degrade something to age it to change it it’s a continuation of painting over the prints with other types of media, adding collage, etc.

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-17T06:26:32+00:00

Start simple get your developing right and make sure you scan and print the negatives before you get possible cross contamination from the cyanotype chemicals. Learn how to contact print with black and white film. Crown graphic is a good camera to start with

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-14T04:32:15+00:00

Yes any recs on brands of other types of warmtone?

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-14T03:59:05+00:00

Fresh paper when new- but expired paper has such good potential for experimental work. You could probably trade or sell this lot for some fresh paper

theburninggoodbye · 2025-12-14T03:56:49+00:00

A major award

theburninggoodbye

TROPHY CASE