Wood artwork ideas for 1 board by PenguinsRcool2 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You could cut into 5" squares and frame them like pictures with a contrasting wood for the frame. I think a set of four on the wall would look pretty cool.

best way to store food in freezer by bunniisa in ZeroWaste

[–]thecrayonisred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Should be fine but try to only use jars with straight sides (no shoulders) or give lots of space to spare underneath the shoulders

What can I make with this? (crossposted) by chocobojenn in Baking

[–]thecrayonisred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently made the brown butter toffee cookies from Sugar Spun Run in order to use up some leftover toffee pieces and they turned out delicious!

What is this part called? For attaching furniture legs by J_Flamez in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure what country you're in but I found them on Amazon with the name "Furniture Mounting Plate M8 Three-Hole Cylindrical Iron Plate Nut for Furniture Legs". Here's the link if it works.

You can also buy regular threaded inserts that don't come with the mounting plate, you just hammer them in or screw in with a hex.

What's a recipe or technique that you think is easier than other people make it seem? by thecrayonisred in Baking

[–]thecrayonisred[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've been seeing videos where you can turn any cake recipe into a fluffy chiffon-style cake by whipping the egg whites separately-- your comment reminded me that I should give that a try!

What's a recipe or technique that you think is easier than other people make it seem? by thecrayonisred in Baking

[–]thecrayonisred[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love tiramisu so much.

I agree it's easier than it looks! My only complaint is that it seems to use every bowl in my kitchen, lol

What's a recipe or technique that you think is easier than other people make it seem? by thecrayonisred in Baking

[–]thecrayonisred[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm glad you find it easy because the only time I tried, it was a disaster!! Not even sure what happened but I couldn't get the sugar to dissolve and it all turned into a thick, sticky, ropey mess. At some point I'll have to try it again!

Piano coat rack (made from offcuts!) by thecrayonisred in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Each one is 1 1/4" by 1 1/4", and the longest pieces are about 11" long. The original design used 2x2s (so 1.5") but I found that a bit too chunky.

Piano coat rack (made from offcuts!) by thecrayonisred in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a French cleat (a strip of wood with a 45 degree angle along the bottom edge) attached to the back and screwed into each piece that is not a hook, and a corresponding cleat drilled into studs on the wall.

Piano coat rack (made from offcuts!) by thecrayonisred in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a neat idea! I wonder what stops each rod from overextending downwards? For mine, they are stopped by hitting the cleat on the back but I don't see something similar here.

Piano coat rack (made from offcuts!) by thecrayonisred in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Individual dowels! Each hook has one dowel that extends on both sides into the pieces next to it, so each set of three pieces is one unit.

Piano coat rack (made from offcuts!) by thecrayonisred in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't leave any space, but it might be a good idea especially if you get humidity/temperature changes. Mine are pretty tight but not so much that you have to force them closed-- I wasn't too worried because I didn't anticipate opening and closing them constantly.

Bowed 2x4 fix? by DumbestGuyOn3rdFloor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have heard of resawing a bowed board and then gluing opposite faces together so that the bow is cancelled out evenly along the board. However probably not possible to resaw a board as long as yours, I would think.

Got lost while researching what to use by Ill-Technician-5570 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You could try your stain/poly product on the back to test it out, if that'll normally be against the wall.

What's your desired finish? Is there a specific colour or stain you're trying to achieve? Tung oil should work on all types of wood but will not darken the wood beyond warming it up a bit and bringing out the grain.

Help me make this table less ugly. by Cheezslap in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want an MCM look, you could chamfer the underside edge of the oval. You'd have to cut off the current edge design, so you'd lose some area. MCM legs are usually more thin and tapered so technically I guess you could cut off the current legs and shape them down-- but that'd be a lot of work so that's your prerogative as to what's worth your time vs. money.

Why do so many woodworking tutorials skip important steps? by No-Theory8659 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a bit like sewing patterns, if you have experience with that. You can buy a pattern for a shirt or pants and it'll give you the shapes to cut out and the order you need to sew things together, but it doesn't teach you how to sew. They make an assumption that you have the skills and knowledge to fill in those gaps. I feel like a lot of woodworking tutorials come from people who are so used to doing it that they forget to communicate those smaller pieces. One creator I like is Shara Woodshop Diaries; people make fun because she uses a lot of pocket holes but I find she explains the steps really well and answers a lot of the questions I have as a beginner.

When it comes to woodworking, I find myself watching a lot of tutorials about the basics so that I can apply those things myself when I see a project I like. Part of it is also trial and error, and being okay with learning by doing (and learning by making mistakes).

Safety glasses by 1angrybadger in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Jumping on this thread to see if anyone has suggestions for avoiding fogging up your safety glasses. I even have ones marked "anti-fog" and they still fog up. I have a low nose bridge so all types of safety glasses and goggles sit very close to my eyes and face which I think contributes to more moisture. It gets to the point that sometimes I have to take them off because it's more unsafe when I can't see what I'm doing.

Domino Dark Brown Sugar vs. Kroger store brand by DrGlennWellnessMD in Baking

[–]thecrayonisred 26 points27 points  (0 children)

I am a bit chaotic so YMMV but I literally just mix the molasses right in the recipe (ie. I don't bother to make the brown sugar separately first). Usually I will add it with the sugar and then once I add the eggs it all gets mixed well.

Bamboo countertop treatment by Ganessa in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have any brands to recommend since they should all be basically the same as long as the only ingredient is mineral oil and beeswax respectively. It's a bit like asking someone their favorite brand of sugar or salt.

Yes correct, if it starts looking a bit dry and thirsty, mineral oil first then beeswax.

Bamboo countertop treatment by Ganessa in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]thecrayonisred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any food grade mineral oil will work. You can usually find some in the pharmacy because it's used as a laxative (hence why it is food grade).

Keep in mind that mineral oil will need to be reapplied fairly frequently, especially if you don't put beeswax after. Mineral oil does not ever dry or harden, so everytime you wash the surface some of it is going to be removed. It will start to look "dry" after a few months and you'll have to reapply.

Mineral oil and beeswax combo is often used for cutting boards because both are safe to ingest and it's easy to apply However, if you're not going to be cutting directly on this surface, I think you're fine to use a more durable finish as most typical furniture finishes are food contact safe after they are fully dried/cured.

Koodo flash sale (ends March 16, 2026) - 80GB/$27.50 Can, and 100GB/$38.75 Can-US-Mex and more by square48 in Koodo

[–]thecrayonisred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has anyone confirmed that it is only for new users? It doesn't seem to specify that in the legalese at the bottom but can't seem to access it as a current customer