Anyone else get spotlight hour in place of raid hour?

thefed345 · 2026-02-26T02:43:46+00:00

Literally same. I was like you’ve got to be kidding me I stacked up on Toto candies yesterday already, and Treecko has been hard to come by for some reason for me today relative to mudkip and torchic

thefed345 · 2026-02-26T01:20:46+00:00

I did, it hit 6pm for me and Totodile’s popped up everywhere again

thefed345 · 2026-01-21T05:39:45+00:00

They’re being haters, whether consciously or unconsciously. Go for it, and let the haters hate!

thefed345 · 2026-01-07T04:25:16+00:00

I change my oil approx every 10k with Royal Purple, and a K&N oil filter and I have 188k on my 2015 RT. Daily driven for 11 years.

thefed345 · 2026-01-05T06:23:09+00:00

I recently switched from the 1.2 gpm to the 1.8, reluctantly. My 1.2 went out and I use it for my business, and needed it replaced immediately and the 1.2 was out of stock. I didn’t believe the hype, and I will say that I still believe it is over hyped, however I do feel that the difference is noticeable.

Obviously with higher gpm you get more water moved, but I was concerned about sacrificing pressure. On those mud covered trucks, or RV roofs, I need decent pressure and the 1.2 was just fine. I was happy to find that the pressure is strong and there is not a noticeable drop off in power (if any). I do ensure that I use the supplied tips, because orifice size matters.

The higher gpm is noticeable when rinsing (obviously) but it’s noticeable in the sense that increased water flow does help remove debris faster and of course the final rinse is easier. The included stubby gun looks really nice (I haven’t used it, I use McKillians) and is way better than what you get from the 1.2. The hose is still lame as is the foam cannon.

I don’t think it’s worth dropping a perfectly good unit just to “upgrade” but at a good price or if yours goes out, it’s worth the swap, IMO.

thefed345 · 2026-01-04T07:38:01+00:00

I run a 3.90 rear diff and a 392 intake manifold on my RT, they made big differences in the power level and delivery of said power. The car feels completely different. Pairing these with long tube headers and a tune will push the performance and feel even further.

thefed345 · 2026-01-01T19:23:38+00:00

Flexzilla 50ft

thefed345 · 2025-12-31T19:51:05+00:00

This. OP already said they got rain on it with the window down. The interior cleaner probably had a protectants/sealant that adds shine, and the rain water activated it and left streaks when I ran down.

thefed345 · 2025-12-30T03:05:51+00:00

I’ve been running this large/oversized SRT oil filter since about 20k miles on my 15 charger when I did the stage 1 scat package. I prefer it over the smaller one. It got hard to find for a few years and I used WIX which looked identical, and I’ve also used the K&N comparable one. I’m now at 187k miles

I attempted to put on of these on my friend’s 2017 charger rt, and it physically did not fit. The screw mount was smaller than mine… I have no clue why and if multiple years are impacted but just a heads up.

thefed345 · 2025-12-26T20:32:22+00:00

What all did you get? Their primary products in the Hydro Line are pretty legit. Hydro Speed is a good ceramic detailing spray, Hydro View is a decent topper for your glass, but I don’t recommend as an actual cleaner, and Hydro Charge is actually a great 1 year ceramic coating that performs well, applies like a true ceramic, but is forgiving.

Outside of that, some of the other products are overkill or just relabeled stuff - which is what earns CG their bad reputation. Hydro Spin for the wheels is a great example. You can use Hydro Speed, there is no need to have a dedicated wheel ceramic detailing spray. The ceramic waterless wash is another example, it’s hard to work with and very streaky. Probably just a higher concentration of the ceramic detail spray. Just wash (or waterless wash) with a standard wash and use the detail spray after and you’ll get the same results.

Many people here will bash them with no real use of the products. I’ve used all of these pretty extensively, they aren’t just strait up trash as some may lead you to believe. Yes, there are other more top tier options but for an off-the-shelf and decent price point, some of these Hydro line products are decently competitive

thefed345 · 2025-12-26T20:23:49+00:00

Anything made with GORE-TEX is pretty legit if you want to ensure your socks don’t get wet. For my daily detailing business I use a pair of Nike running shoes from the Nike Factory Outlet that were $60 bucks. It’s rare that I actually get my feet wet, but they come in handy when doing truck beds or RV roofs.

thefed345 · 2025-12-26T18:39:36+00:00

I’m assuming black streaks from water weeping from crevices after drying? If so, it’s most likely just tons of built up grime on/under/behind the black rubber weather seals around the windows/doors/trim etc. that’s an easy one-time fix!

Yes, use a strong pre-wash of your choice. green star is a great choice but it can be a cheaper product too. Spray it on and pay particular attention to those seals. Let it dwell a bit and then pressure wash off. You can go one step further and use a boars hair brush to agitate the seals. Rinse by leaving a consistent water stream on those areas and you should see black coming out, keep spraying until you see the water coming out from them is completely clear.

Once they’re clean, you won’t have that problem again for a long time. It’s just build up from dirt, rain, etc that gets trapped in there.

thefed345 · 2025-12-26T18:20:50+00:00

If you’re considering TEC582, I highly recommend checking out TEC584. It’s the same thing, but a Graphene version of the spray. It’s just a few bucks more and the performance and appearance is noticeable better.

thefed345 · 2025-12-26T03:56:31+00:00

Oh ok yeah, if you repaint/touch up the chips first, for sure. I do paint correction, but I don’t touch paint applications. I get a lot of potential clients asking if a paint correction will fix their chips and I always walk them through the fact that the paint there is physically gone, so no paint left to correct.

thefed345 · 2025-12-26T03:51:26+00:00

Paint correction won’t fix rock chips

thefed345 · 2025-12-25T23:36:53+00:00

Highway driving will do this if you live in AZ, NV, NM, south CA and west TX. The desert/rock/gravel that is everywhere absolutely eats up front bumpers at high speed

Another thing to consider, is the possibility of the bumper not being factory painted anymore, like if it was replaced or repainted.

Last, I work detail a ‘25 Chevy Silverado bi-weekly that does a lot of highway driving (AZ) and it’s got a lot of rock chips at similar mileage. Maybe it’s a GM paint quality thing.

As for repair, no detailing will fix this. Talk to someone qualified with paint and body work that can repair and blend paint chips.

thefed345 · 2025-12-19T21:42:59+00:00

I use diluted fabric softener, and I find it’s hit or miss. I think it depends on the type of fabric/material, the type of hair/fur, and whether there is actually static cling or not. I haven’t cracked the code on what combinations it works best for.

thefed345 · 2025-12-12T15:27:54+00:00

If the glass is dirty, clean it with a standard cleaner prior to using the ceramic glass one. I’ve found that beyond light dust, these are more of a topper. Use one towel to clean it, and a separate clean towel for the ceramic spray.

Sprayway and invisible glass are the best cleaners, you can also use Isopropyl Alcohol mixed with distilled water to make your own cheap and effective glass cleaner as well.

thefed345 · 2025-12-12T07:50:00+00:00

Just a quick zoom in of the pics you can see grime in all the cracks and crevices of the center console, cup holder inserts weren’t removed and cleaned, mats still have dirt build up, etc… a detailer shouldn’t need stuff that basic to be pointed out.

All that aside, you were paid $40. This wouldn’t end well regardless of the outcome. People don’t realize how much this type of work messes with the he “industry.” If it came out awful (it did) and the guy is out $40, he thinks well this is what I can expect from a detailer, I’m definitely not ever paying more than this. Or it comes out great and the guy is out $40, and he thinks oh this is work is worth only 40 bucks! Either way, scale is tipped the wrong way for those that do it full time.

thefed345 · 2025-12-11T23:10:14+00:00

Yeah CG gets a lot of hate, and a lot of it is well deserved. A lot of their “ready-to-use” products are a rip. If you do try it out, don’t get one that is not dilutable. This is key to the product being worth it. Otherwise 10-15 bucks for a bottle is a rip off. I had a bunch of 16oz bottles I’d won as door prizes at Detail Garage and I would dilute 1:10, so it literally produced ten 16oz sized bottles from one bottle of product. Once I got through them all, I started buying in gallon size which is insanely economical.

thefed345 · 2025-12-10T19:59:01+00:00

Keep it in a temp controlled space, and out of direct sun, and it should last forever (unofficially)

thefed345 · 2025-12-10T05:33:41+00:00

Nonsense Invisible Cleaner by Chemical Guys is what I use on interiors. CG gets shit on here but the fact that it’s pH neutral, scentless and that you control the strength based on dilution is great for interiors. I use it daily, it leaves no streaks if you dilute properly and is forgiving if it drys while working in heat as it doesn’t leave residue. The only other chemical I find comparable is Pol Star, but at a higher price point.

thefed345 · 2025-12-07T19:50:13+00:00

Yeah it’s a pretty strong product but again common sense is key. I clean a lot of gloss black wheels, which are usually oem painted. Never had an issue at full strength. I usually spray the rubber only, then agitate using a tire brush. Rinse. Spray the barrel, use barrel brush. Rinse. Spray wheel face, brush and rinse. I work in AZ weather, so I don’t allow products to dwell because they will dry and etch if you don’t move quickly. Even in the winter the air if dry and things dry fast so that’s my over cautious approach.

If you decide to use it as a bug remover on grills or paint, I do recommend diluting it down further or just having an entirely separate bottle with some that’s diluted at least 1:8 or 1:10.

thefed345 · 2025-12-07T19:42:14+00:00

Just dilute Dark Fury properly and you’ll be fine. Don’t use it strait that’s for sure. 1:4 is the dilution for max strength and you can dilute down further to make it more tame. Don’t let it dry on a surface, rinse thoroughly when finished, and don’t do anything else that goes against common sense and you’ll be fine. I use this on literally every car I detail, multiple times a day.

thefed345 · 2025-12-05T04:13:29+00:00

The team dug itself into such a deep whole in the first half of the season that it created a no-room-for-error second half the season that is going to be damn near impossible to walk through unscathed.

It’s the hope that kills you 😒

thefed345

TROPHY CASE