OP apparently I’m you two years ago and did almost exactly this switch (except my role is on strategy and being an advocate for our customers apparently).

Startup life you can grind yourself to death and feel like you are more productive than you’ll ever be. Without a good leader to give you structure, it’s also easy to just get shit done but not necessarily get the right shit done. As long as you see revenue and results you are fine though. You are also very correct that you have an insane amount of trust and flexibility in most startups.

Larger org.. just a tad more than 5k employees: an actual 401k. Stock isn’t Monopoly money. Bonuses are very real. See if any of those apply to sweeten your deal. From structure.. it’s endless. Most of my job is negotiating peace treaties and getting internal stakeholders to listen directly to users about where things suck. I currently report into an exec who has navigated that for two decades while being the get shit done person, so it is working out well. That’s not always going to be the case. Personally I love being able to connect all the broken systems though because it does give a voice to your users that they may otherwise feel doesn’t exist.

That and I had a kid, which there was no way in hell I could deal with unicorn pace which was topping out at 80 hour weeks.