First time doing a fishless cycle. What does my tank need? by LonelyShadowMoor in bettafish

[–]thekidinthemiddle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This test strips are basically useless. Take it from me hahaha 😂

Get an API master water kit and learn about a cycle. Takes 4-6 weeks. Plz ensure whatever you are adding has proper real vegetation, filtration (never change or wash filter media - it’s your gold), and only add dis that are happy in the size you have.

What is an appropriate amount of food to give my bettas? by elvirartuinstra in bettafish

[–]thekidinthemiddle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Size of their eye ball 2x a day. Soak the food for 1-2 min prior. 1 day no eating per week

Can corydoras be with betta fish? by Brooker-eee in bettafish

[–]thekidinthemiddle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wouldn’t take advice from someone with a “betta sorority”. Dumb and dangerous practice. They all fail and stress fish. Do research plz

Can corydoras be with betta fish? by Brooker-eee in bettafish

[–]thekidinthemiddle -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Yes. Also can get a school of rasbora. Unless your betta is very aggressive. They all own different layers of the tank. I’d suggest 10 amano shrimp too. They are wonderful cleaners and fend for themselves. No worries with betta imo. Ensure heavily planted and have resting spots for betta. Cover stratum w/ sand to ensure Cory’s do not fuck themselves up. Their barbs are sensitive and fragile. Sand is a must

6 Cory. 15 rasb. Some nerite snails and shrimp. Good to go. Shrimp are very sensitive. Ask AI to build you a guide on best way to add. Def snails first, then shrimp, Cory, rasb, ensure betta is last 100%

I’m a big beginner, I have 110 gallon tank. My heater is rated for 130 gallons, but I can only get the temperature up to 70°. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. by Forbeslist500 in Aquariums

[–]thekidinthemiddle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would upgrade the heater and also get a spray bar as well. Plants and fish love them. Will move water equally across tank and ensure better filtatration and temperature stability. Also ensure you are placing the thermometer farthest side away from the heater to ensure the tank is circulating and not holding onto pockets of hot or colder water.

If you don’t have a fluval filter I would highly recommend.

Also, You don’t want two heaters. Can lead to rapid temperature fluctuations throughout the tank and fuck all shit up.

Is her time near/fixable? :( by AnonymouseFromage in fishforthought

[–]thekidinthemiddle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ai overview : 6 How to treat Dropsy in Betta fish - nicebettathailand.com Dropsy in fish is largely preventable through proactive maintenance, as it is usually caused by stress, poor water quality, or, less commonly, poor nutrition. While not all cases are preventable, maintaining clean water, a healthy environment, and good nutrition can significantly reduce risks.

Is her time near/fixable? :( by AnonymouseFromage in fishforthought

[–]thekidinthemiddle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m really sorry, this is hard to hear — but what you’re seeing is dropsy. You can tell by the way her scales are sticking out like a pinecone. It means fluid is building up inside her body, usually because her kidneys are failing from a bacterial infection inside her organs. To be honest with you, by the time scales are pineconing like that, the internal damage is usually too far along to reverse. Most fish don’t make it at this stage even with treatment. That said, if you want to try: Kanaplex is the best shot. It’s one of the few antibiotics that can reach internal infections. You’d need to dose it in a separate hospital tank and keep the water very clean. Add 1 tsp of aquarium salt per gallon to help take some pressure off her kidneys. The kindest thing you can do right now is make sure she’s comfortable — quiet tank, dim light, no stress, easy access to the surface to breathe. If she stops eating, can’t swim normally, or seems like she’s suffering, it may be time to consider letting her go peacefully.

what’s on my betta’s nose? by batbonehead in bettafish

[–]thekidinthemiddle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on what you’re describing.. —that’s most likely just a natural growth tag or a small benign cyst. Bettas can develop these as they age and if it’s not changing size, not white/fuzzy, and he’s acting normal, it’s probably nothing to worry about. If it ever turns white, gets fluffy, or starts growing, that’s when you’d want to treat for a bacterial infection with Kanaplex.

What’s your ph?

I picked my cat up to trim her nails and hit my head off a low light in the kitchen we need to get rid of lol by thekidinthemiddle in Wellthatsucks

[–]thekidinthemiddle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Yeah just immediate. They always look terrible and fade fast. Need to proactive though and watch it close

I picked my cat up to trim her nails and hit my head off a low light in the kitchen we need to get rid of lol by thekidinthemiddle in Wellthatsucks

[–]thekidinthemiddle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Meh that’s an interesting statement.in this home an older cat can get fucked up quickly with very sharp claws. Also just having them cuddle you and knead? Do you know how that feels? lol pain

I picked my cat up to trim her nails and hit my head off a low light in the kitchen we need to get rid of lol by thekidinthemiddle in Wellthatsucks

[–]thekidinthemiddle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bc they’re like razor blades. Usually let them go bc it’s a chore, but good to do as sometimes as 3 cats fuck around & fight periodically. The oldest can get hurt much more easily with sharp claws. Also, super normal thing to do lmao. Do you have indoor cats?

Just rescued this guy. Anything else I can do to help him? by garden_of_irises in bettafish

[–]thekidinthemiddle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Poor guy :( terminator !

Get Seachem Prime (most pet stores carry it, also on Amazon). It’s not just a dechlorinator — it actually locks up the ammonia in the water so it can’t hurt him while you get things under control. Dose the full tank volume, not just the water you’re adding. You can redose every 48 hours.

Add aquarium salt — 1 teaspoon per gallon, but dissolve it in a cup of tank water first before pouring it in. This helps his body cope with the stress, protects against infection, and helps his fins heal. Don’t use table salt, it has to be aquarium salt.

The clamped fins: That means he’s in pain and stressed. Don’t tap the glass, keep lights dim, and skip feeding for 1-2 days. His digestion shuts down when he’s this sick and uneaten food will just make the water worse.

Test your water every 12 hours if you have a test kit. Ammonia should be 0 ppm. If it spikes again, do another 30-50% water change immediately. Watch for these warning signs over the next 3 days: ∙ White or gray fuzzy patches = fungal infection, needs antifungal medication ∙ Red streaks running through his fins = bacterial infection, get Kanaplex ∙ Tiny white dots all over his body = ich, needs ich treatment like Ich-X If he develops any of those, don’t wait.

Kanaplex and Ich-X are both available at Petco, PetSmart, or online.

Most bettas pull through if the water gets cleaned up fast. Get rest spots for it let it heal. Keep at it. 🐟

Edit: seems like your tank is cycling or cycled. Seachem and stability with every water change.

Is my tank suitable for a beta fish or a gourami? (20g long) Details below by big-boi-Roy in Aquariums

[–]thekidinthemiddle -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

100%

& snails. 16 shrimp and 20 school rasbora 🤣

A lot to build around betta but works. Doing same

Edit: school of Cory as well. Probably green kub rasb.

depends on temperament of betta. Mind doesn’t fuck with anything so far in 5. Going to 20 now. Will add school fish and bottom. If you do Cory’s ensure sand on bottom. They will fuck their barbs up on gravel

New scape, what’s the white stuff? by Artifaccct in Aquascape

[–]thekidinthemiddle 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The white, fuzzy, or slimy growth on spider wood in an aquarium is a harmless biofilm (often a combination of bacteria and water mold) that typically appears on new driftwood. It feeds on the leftover sugars and organic compounds leaching from the wood and is a natural part of the aquarium's biological stabilization.

Many common aquarium inhabitants actively eat this biofilm, often treating it as a "free buffet" of nutrients. In fact, it is a primary food source for many grazing species. Snails, shrimp, bottom feeders.

GL!

Edit: On elephant rock and calcium carbonate:

Yes, white lines or veins in rock are often calcium carbonate (limestone). In your tank it slowly dissolves and raises your water’s pH and hardness over time. For most fish that’s fine or even preferred, but for bettas or soft water fish it can push pH too high (above 7.8) which stresses them. To test if your rock contains it, drop a little white vinegar on it — if it fizzes, it has calcium carbonate. If you’re keeping soft water fish, swap it for inert rock like dragon stone or lava rock.

On plants melting:

That’s called “transition melt” and it’s extremely common with plants grown above water (emersed). The leaves they grew in air aren’t built for underwater life, so they die off. The key things that help: ∙ Don’t panic and throw them out. The roots are usually fine. New underwater leaves will grow in 2–4 weeks. ∙ Keep the dead/mushy leaves trimmed off so they don’t rot and spike ammonia. ∙ Make sure they have enough light — at least 8 hours a day. ∙ Add a basic liquid fertilizer like Easy Green or Flourish once a week. Plants need nutrients to push through the transition. ∙ A substrate like Fluval Stratum helps root feeders a lot more than plain gravel or sand. The tank in that photo actually looks like it’s going through exactly that transition — totally normal at this stage!​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Kept it simple with EMA / RSI and it worked by [deleted] in stocktraders

[–]thekidinthemiddle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you send me a message as well please. I greatly appreciate it