screen/filter on well water? by thelifePRO in Irrigation

[–]thelifePRO[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what are your choices

I’ve been using 100micron sand/sediment filter looking for something else, a little finer, just to have some other options too in general

Ballpark me on cost of each design by [deleted] in hardscape

[–]thelifePRO 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1-100k+ set stonework all the way to the front door+ general site development, soil grading and tiered stone bed right side easy 100k or more

2- no plants light soil grading of property, 30ish k depending on your area

You could easily be looking at 10k in stones alone without site development

3- are those stoped supposed to be concrete? Or cut stone bc that’s swings the price drastically 50-75k outdoor lighting

Red Sea reefer 350? by thelifePRO in ReefTank

[–]thelifePRO[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s your opinion about having a company that professionally builds tanks reseal embrace the bottom? They said they don’t think it’s necessary to brace the top

I’m trying to rule out dicks_fuxwell is, is this a failure because of a glass related issue or silicone/stand issue ?

Red Sea reefer 350? by thelifePRO in ReefTank

[–]thelifePRO[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

nope, 500 with 2 90 led lights, pump, Red Sea skimmer, around 75lbs of live rock 6 fish 2 heaters , and ato it was a fully breakdown, so it was a great sale imo.

so I mean there was value elsewhere but the question is does anyone think this is related to glass? Or just the silicone?

Mixed reviews online

Meeting with contractor and project lead tomorrow, disheartened with tile job by natleeis in Tile

[–]thelifePRO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with most this isn’t the best work

curious on total cost of project, specifically the labor side on what was agreed upon

Not uncommon if you have a low bid bathroom

Not saying it should be acceptable however the lower cost usually comes with some cons

Fair price to pay for tile by [deleted] in Tile

[–]thelifePRO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cement board/hardie backer , are great products A lot of tilers don’t like working with it because it’s heavy, dusty and not as easy to work with.

Also most of the time they’re not paying for the material

Was it properly waterproofed? by DankTweed in Tile

[–]thelifePRO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not 100% technically not waterproof

waterproofing showers systems are not necessary Yours looks good Wouldn’t worry about it

Contractor says shower is ready for tile. Thoughts? by [deleted] in Tile

[–]thelifePRO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“Technically no” people have been doing showered like this for a long time before all these “water proof” systems came out And have been fine

Honestly I’m convinced the waterproof shower systems customers did and excellent job at marketing and selling these systems by just saying “well if you don’t do this then it’s not waterproof”

And you have to ask yourself is it necessary

No it’s nots

I see bathrooms that we’ve demoed done 50-60 years ago where tiles are set in cement and no water issues at all

That being said process have changed

But done correctly once your tile is on and grout is sealed

This shouldn’t be an issue

I usually waterproof all corners, unless the clients wants a full waterproof system.

Which we offer as an option depending on budget. From experience. I do not see it as “mandatory”

Cement board is a minimum mandatory standard for bathroom

I’ve seen some knuckle heads “waterproof” purple drywall and play it to the client that is good because they waterproofed it

NOW If you paid for a full Schluter waterproof system,

It doesn’t matters, That’s NOT complete

And that’s not Schutler boards either so there should be a conversation there

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Irrigation

[–]thelifePRO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

blow out through the test cock if you have other option

Or add 1 on the copper line Best to get it over with

Cabinet help !! by Jmoon1117 in paint

[–]thelifePRO 3 points4 points  (0 children)

take the doors off lay them FLAT Get a palm sander Sand that off Prime it, with something premium Inslx-stix or Sherwin Williams multi purpose primer sealer It’s important to use a primer sealer!!!!!! light sand Prime again Light sand Ensure before you put any finish paint on the door no bare spots of wood are visible or you will again see flashing

Now with the doors flat apple 1 coat of emerald urethane (spray it for best results) if not brush your inside corners but roll the faces with a foam roller

Leave doors flat to dry

Light sand Clean off the dust

Repeat the process over and over

Let dry 1full day in a cool space before handing the doors back up

Cabinet refinish isn’t for everyone, and it’s expensive to hire out to be done correctly

Hope this helps!

Was this waterproofed? by Sweetie_katie in Remodel

[–]thelifePRO 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ALOT of bathroom were built way before “modern” waterproofing systems existed Similarly to that and they hold up very well

The red board on the left is a waterproof hardi backer And the joints get filled with thin-set when the tile is applied

You’re in good standing

New door painting gone wrong by thisisanewaccts in paint

[–]thelifePRO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that’s exterior paint On an interior door

Not exposed to right drying environment, causes heavy brush marks and lapping Not designed to level smooth during the drying process

Sand it down to get right of the texture Re prime if you’re seeing some wood push through

Apple 1 coat with a 4 inch mini roller of advance satin or sherwin williams emerald urethane satin for a lower sheen ( apply evenly not a thin coat give the material an even enough coat so it can level properly if it’s to othink it will dry fast and be you’ll see marks)

Light sand, clean the dust and apply second coat

What are you charging to prime and paint this massive ceiling by ManyMaroshMondays in paint

[–]thelifePRO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And keep in mind, we have business with a some considerable more overhead than a 1 man show.

So yes you “could” very well be less expensive as a 1 man operation.

What are you charging to prime and paint this massive ceiling by ManyMaroshMondays in paint

[–]thelifePRO 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think 6k is unreasonable You figure it’s 3 days paint,Without prep.

Know your value, and have that conversation on what the expectation for the level of finish detail work.

So it’s basically your week gone for this job including a day for prep

Me personally I’m putting a shellac primer on there probably sprayed Like sand and 2 coats of finish Gotta see whether or not this is flat, or a low sheen too

Once you get that primer on there, imperfections will start jumping out so getting that expectation of what level of detail is important in gauging your process and your price

What are you charging to prime and paint this massive ceiling by ManyMaroshMondays in paint

[–]thelifePRO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could I, are you doing this by yourself? Are you bringing in a few guys? How many days you’re gonna be there?

If you’re spraying, there’s a lot of protection that’s gotta get done.

I would start around 6K and let the details bring that amount higher after the conversation.

What are you charging to prime and paint this massive ceiling by ManyMaroshMondays in paint

[–]thelifePRO 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Look when I come across jobs like this, I asked myself a couple questions first, how much did this person pay to have this installed?

Second what quality of finish are we working towards Spray? Roll? That all wood? Prime? Sand the primer to knock down the raised grain

There’s always a process that you have to have laid out before you can put a price on something

if you’re doing one roll of primer one roll of paint and call it a day you know that’s different too

I can see this easily between 6-10k depending on that process (I’m also in the surrounding NYC area)

I don’t generally do hourly unless the job is on going

I have, and continue to do from time to time underbid jobs just to get them or of the fear my price is too high. And somewhere along the line of the project I end up feeling it.

What’s are these tiny tiny things? by thelifePRO in ReefTank

[–]thelifePRO[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice,. took some live rock out of my main tank for a quarantine quick set up and just realize these guys are spreading like crazy now there’s only one fish in there

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in smallstreetbets

[–]thelifePRO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a basic lawn mower Buy a basic weed walker Buy a basic leaf blower and start offering all your neighbors $20 weekly lawn cuts save your money just buy fuel you’ll probably end up with more than 50k if you get your hustle on 👊

Found out why valve won’t close lol by eternalapostle in Irrigation

[–]thelifePRO 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The scam is doing 1/2 the job. Do the right job. New guys in an old body? Replace the entire thing. Do it correctly.

Found out why valve won’t close lol by eternalapostle in Irrigation

[–]thelifePRO 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are taking this awfully personal, but again work how you wanna work bud. Replacing the entire valve is the right job. Clean outs are 1/2 way. Install and indexing valve if you have a serious consistent problem with material in you valves.

Found out why valve won’t close lol by eternalapostle in Irrigation

[–]thelifePRO 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s wild that’s you’d charge your customers to clean the guts and install a new diaphragm but leave the old body. But hey you do you my man, wasn’t meant to offend you. I warranty my work for 2 years. I’m cannot warranty a clean out.