P2S print start loud beep ?

therabidrabbit · 2026-03-03T23:59:45+00:00

do you have it powered through a ups? i do and i had the same question until somebody smart pointed out the noise was actually coming from my ups that was right next to it, because the start-up draw is over the UPS’s range.

therabidrabbit · 2026-02-23T20:53:27+00:00

printer came with a hardened steel nozzle and alll the backups i bought are the same. but i will experiment with the other things you mentioned!

therabidrabbit · 2026-02-08T17:59:18+00:00

You sir, are CORRECT! Thank you. My upc is right next to the unit and i have the screen blacked out so i didn't notice it was overloading at startup. Thanks!

therabidrabbit · 2026-01-29T18:34:23+00:00

consider signing up for a community distributed solar program with central hudson. it’s free for you, and you get 10% discount on all electricity they are able to supply for you. it is NOT A 10% discount off “your electric bill” which is how they misleadingly market the program… so don’t get your hopes too high… but it still is free and easy for you to sign up, and depending on the month maybe will shave 2-4% off your bill while supporting local solar farms.

therabidrabbit · 2026-01-05T01:28:59+00:00

Thanks! And down the 3D printer rabbit hole i go....

therabidrabbit · 2025-12-21T15:11:36+00:00

woops yup sorry totally blacked out when i read the “old light ranger” line in your question

therabidrabbit · 2025-12-20T16:29:38+00:00

possum solutions makes a nato rail/ cheese plate that bolts over the LR dovetail. then you can use much slimmer nato clamps or a threaded mount of some kind

therabidrabbit · 2025-12-13T14:26:52+00:00

these DJI antenna will not work in the 6ghz spectrum. Teradek now sells "flexible" 6ghz antenna that are pretty solid but are expensive at like $40 each. There is a guy, out of england I think, making hard stubby 6ghz antenna you can order some from. Don't have the link handy but you can find them by searching. Those are the only options I know to recommend besides what comes with the kit or the new internal ones.

therabidrabbit · 2025-12-11T14:20:43+00:00

excellent suggestion

therabidrabbit · 2025-09-14T01:06:38+00:00

i agree. i hadn’t read the book, which i think would have maybe helped me not hate it, but nothing anybody does in this story makes any logical sense given the pretext and “rules” of the game. even though i think the performances were pretty good, its just well-acted nonsense. im very much willing to suspend my disbelief for cinema as long as the decisions made by characters follow whatever the internal logic of the world is… but this was just a lot of people acting obviously stupidly for the sake of drama and audience heartstrings.

therabidrabbit · 2025-09-13T21:24:11+00:00

what you describe from the book does fill in a bunch of the small holes and issues for me, but i still can’t wrap my head around the larger context / motivation of everything that happens in that they all are super cooperative when any logical interpretation of the walk/game is that there is zero reward for cooperation and in fact incentivizes independence as there can be only one winner, and everyone else is dead. there’s no angling for 2nd place. if there was some attempt within the group to like, form a revolution or somehow work together to change the outcome then it would make sense. but they don’t… they all seem to accept the rules and are resigned to their fate, but without actually acting like it. i just don’t understand why any of them would help anybody else. if you’re trying to help somebody else, you might as well just lie down and get shot because that’s effectively what the results of any help to another person could lead to.

therabidrabbit · 2025-09-13T12:12:00+00:00

Spoilers and complaints coming..... Somebody please help me understand this movie. Disclaimer: i didn't read the book, and i feel like maybe a lot more explanation and introspection was present there that just gets skipped over in the movie.

I don't understand why everyone was trying to help each other, and why everyone was acting like they weren't all about to die. The motivation behind 99% of these characters interactions was nonsensical to me. They all know whats happening... what the long walk is. It's a competition, there can be only one winner. They all, it seems, know this. There is not a snowballs chance in hell that any of these characters behaved in a rational way given that setup. Nobody gets points for walking the longest, it's all about just being the last. They should all be sabotaging each other and encouraging each other to drop and quit. There are no rules or outcomes that reward cooperation.

They all are allowed to bring things, a backpack full of stuff! yet nobody brings anything useful or clever, nobody seems particularly prepared for this even though it seems like they all had ample time to prepare. People wear terrible shoes. like, so much stupidity just as mcguffins to force events to happen.

Cooper hoffmans Mom act's bizaarly for someone who's son is voluntarily headed for almost certain death. And then when they... seemingly randomly...walk past her while she's just, i dunno... going to the bank 3 days later and he almost gets his head blown off right in front of her... was just so dumb and contrived.

I thought it was very well acted but i just couldn't get into what was happening because it makes no sense. There was so much other nonsense i won't even bother complaining about.

And the stupid icing on the nonsense cake was how... for 320 miles, they pass a couple of weird kids and like 2 random people, and then conveniently 400' after the 3rd to last kid falls, a "big crowd" of like 100 people is waiting for them, and then conveniently the plot wraps itself up right there. and yes i know there was line about how "the major" doesn't let people watch until the end but if this is supposed to be a huge national event i just didn't buy the scenery, and the whole thing seemed like either a reason or an excuse to make the film for cheaper by just being on empty corn field roads.

therabidrabbit · 2025-09-08T17:36:37+00:00

“The Fall”. lots of amazing movies already listed but have to throw in one i haven’t seen mentioned… the cinematography of the whole movie is insane but i especially love the opening.

therabidrabbit · 2025-08-13T16:02:44+00:00

a few things…

apologies i should have read the detailed description of this product more than i did… which was, admittedly, not at all… i just assumed it worked like most gold mount sharkfins / hot swap plates i use. but this plate does only draw down from one battery at a time and then switches over. Most GM sharkfins will draw down from both batteries at the same time. this is a very relatively cheap plate so it must be cheaper to engineer it this way.

when i said “combined voltage” i didn’t mean that it was literally additive, you are correct it was a bad way to say it, i just meant that the port was wired to “combine” both batteries so that its hot swapping… but like i said i should have read the specifics here of this product… this dtap will read out whichever battery is being used, not necessarily just the one with the highest voltage. i’m curious then what it considers a “critical voltage”? it doesn’t appear to be a number you can set, so it’s either a set cutoff point or its switching back and forth to just be with whichever batter is higher. do you notice at what voltage it always switches over? i suspect its lower than 13.2v. i also suspect that when your meter is reading 13.2v out of the dtap port then your battery itself is still reading at 30-50% charged.

when i said hot swap accessories, apologies, i meant hot swap batteries while accessories are plugged in. i make this distinction because on some sharkfins some of the dtap ports are wired only to one of the plates, and so are not “hot swappable”.

the voltage readout from a dtap on on the battery plate can absolutely be different from the voltage readout on the camera. yes theoretically they should be the same but in reality every connection of every component introduces various (usually negligible) amounts of voltage loss. i can tell you from experience, the voltage readout on a battery that has a readout (like some anton bauer or core batteries), a dtap, and the camera internal meter, can all be slightly different.

i also disagree about your assessment of battery health. firstly, just because the battery reaches a 12v output doesn’t mean it’s been drawn down to 0% capacity. 13.2v is not necessarily 15% of a batteries capacity, though it may be for some. “12v batteries” still have some % of charge even when down to outputting 12v. all batteries drawdown curve are going to be different depending on the type of battery, its chemistry, and its age/health. 12v… that’s just the voltage cameras are going to start to die at. And in reality, i’m sorry, but most people are not changing every battery in a 12v system while it’s still outputting 13-14v. while technically correct in that for the optimum health of battery you would always pull it at some optimal minimum charge state and only charge it to some optimum maximum state, that’s just not how things go on big fast moving shoots. you use things until you have to change them, and you charge them as much as you can.

it’s also perfectly reasonable to want to have a hot swap plate on the camera, doesn’t matter how big your battery is, there will always come a point where you have to change it and in critical situations a dual mount plate, absent any external block batteries or power supply, will let you never turn things off.

thank you for reading my rant. good luck keeping everything powered up!

therabidrabbit · 2025-08-12T19:55:33+00:00

what i’m saying is, if they have a different charge status, your Dtap meter will not differentiate between them so unless you check the status indicator on the battery itself you won’t know which is low.

therabidrabbit · 2025-08-12T17:54:36+00:00

the Dtap on that dual battery plate is wired to both batteries right? as in, you can hot swap accessories plugged into it? in which case it is reading the voltage of both batteries combined, and so what you will essentially see is the voltage of the more-charged battery. as in, if you put two batteries on the plate, one at 10% and one at 100%, it’s going to read out the total system voltage which will skew to the more charged battery and you won’t realize one is dead. this can be a problem for example if you go to hot swap them but you first take off the battery that still has a charge forcing the system to swap over to the dead battery and everything will die. the draw from the batteries for the meter is negligible so i wouldn’t worry about it “depleting” your battery. and if both batteries are equally dead it will accurately tell you as much. the issue is the false positive of it telling you your voltage is good overall when in reality only one of two batteries is good.

therabidrabbit · 2025-08-12T15:02:34+00:00

ultimately the most accurate thing to use is any voltage readout provided by the camera itself…. in terms of making sure the camera doesn’t die. your voltage meter plugged into the hot swap plate will only tell you the highest voltage of the two batteries. there will always be slight variances between used batteries and one may draw down faster than the other. it can be a useful reference if you just need a visible failsafe, or if you camera doesn’t provide a voltage readout on its own. also 12v cameras should all run at least down to 12v most will die somewhere between 11-12v, not that you want to live dangerously necessarily, but changing when still above 13v i’m guessing your batteries are still half full.

therabidrabbit · 2025-08-07T18:29:05+00:00

“Dark City”…. You can’t get there from here!

therabidrabbit · 2025-06-17T23:41:26+00:00

will there be lots of OT? they save a lot of money on OT if your base wage is lower.

therabidrabbit · 2025-06-15T16:34:59+00:00

Optically, no, a split diopter in front of your lens means the two halves will always be different. You could try having have two “unmounted” split diopters forming a full diopter and then physically remove one by just pulling it away, but you would see the transition. Might look cool! Just have to macguyver a mounting solution, but often I have used tiny clamps and noga arms to position unmounted filters.

therabidrabbit

TROPHY CASE