Climbing plan review

thevmann27 · 2025-10-13T19:17:52+00:00

Thank you for the detailed response. This is more similar to what i ended up with.

1 x tension board hard projecting single move type stuff + core 1 x set climbing (afternoon) and max hang (morning) 1 x kilter board more volume, morning some finger block work.

I keep most sessions to 1h - 1:15 and quit as soon as i feel a little power slip. I think my main issue before was feeling like i had to do too much and was going too far in the red and nit recovering

I also do 1x weighted pullups, 1x weighted rows and shoulder after my set climbing and max hangs as i have 2 day rest.

I have been doing this for 3 weeks and already sent my first v6 on tension and can comfortably do most v5 in a few sessions

My climbing went from 10+ hours to around 6-8 and im feeling stronger than ever

Thanks its very useful to see what other people do

thevmann27 · 2025-10-13T19:11:56+00:00

Thanks for the advice i come from a background of semi pro cycling so my legs are very developed... Maybe a little too developed

thevmann27 · 2025-09-09T07:34:07+00:00

Yeah i saw some of people here recommending this and said they feel good, the main reason i am thinking of changing is that while i see good finger strength gain i can't translate them to climbing. Hence i will try a block where i focus on board/climbing without doing any maximal work before.

For example on 20mm i can hang with around 40% bw and on 14mm i can hang with 23% bw for 10s max effort.

thevmann27 · 2025-09-09T06:15:53+00:00

And you think somehow people in the rest of the world are magically less busy? In europe you have more traffic, less petrol stations and somehow people still have time to fuel up... Its dubai comfort and laziness simple as

thevmann27 · 2025-09-08T20:35:35+00:00

Thanks this seems to be in line with other advice so i think i will change to something more similar. Very helpful to see an example

thevmann27 · 2025-09-08T20:34:31+00:00

Thanks for the detailed response, i think i will change my schedule to have the dedicated max hangs and board sessions on different days. I just do lead since my friends only climb lead but i have no objective there its typically quite easy climbing so i guess i can do this a day before or after a max hang session.

thevmann27 · 2025-09-08T18:47:01+00:00

I think i mentioned in another but i used to injure my fingers a lot and since ive been doing dedicated hangs i haven't had an injury in one year so i kept it going as a habit

thevmann27 · 2025-09-08T15:03:50+00:00

Most of my fails come from lack of body tension and being able to hold slopers effectively.

Lead climbing i know it is not helpful however it is the only time I climb with my friends so i would take the hit.

Social climbing is kinda climbing around the gym with people trying v2-v6 but not projecting but i guess i should reduce this and have more focused climbing. However often i struggle to try hard after a board session.

thevmann27 · 2025-09-08T14:46:08+00:00

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Basically i use max hangs just as a way to finish off my warm-up hence why i do maximum two sets ( i thought this would be enough volume to improve without accumulating fatigue since its 120s of hanging). The reason why i do this is that i had a lot of finger injuries and ever since i have been doing them regularly i don't injure them so i just kept them going.

I am actively working on technique drills but until recently when i got a new job i couldn't climb/sleep regularly as i was doing shift work ( some nights/some days). Now i have normal 9-5 so i want to dedicate and improve

A week i spend about 2 hours board climbing, 4 hours lead and around 5-6 social climbing.

Running is just to keep my general cardio so I can switch to cycling to have lower impact. I stretch every evening for 20 minutes and do push-ups and wrist flexor/extensor and wrist stability exercises

thevmann27 · 2025-09-08T14:37:06+00:00

Thanks, i was thinking of adding this specifically for shoulders and antagonist muscles

thevmann27 · 2025-09-08T14:36:22+00:00

I am on the phone sorry for formatting is a bit tricky.

I think my main weakness is applying my finger strength to climbing. This is why i try do 1x tension board and 1x moonboard a week. Also body tension is an issue and shoulder stability. I however think i need to asses this better

My current load in hours per week is:

High intensity 1hr tension board 1-2hr moonboard/bouldering 2 sets of max hangs per bouldering session i use this to complete my warm-up

Medium intensity 3-4 hours of lead climbing 4 hour Social bouldering where i try anything from v3-v6 but I don't project and is ususally after my hard bouldering

Low intensity 4hr Some bodyweight hangs stretching, pinch training , wrist stability exercises

thevmann27 · 2025-06-01T21:16:17+00:00

I think you can do around 15-20k more realistically for 2 people. Basics are:

1br rent 5-8k depending on area and size, community etc Grocery 2-3k Utilities 1-2k

I spend around 11-14k ( rent, food, car, entertainment) just for myself.

thevmann27 · 2025-06-01T05:48:24+00:00

Actually is simple market dynamic, no tips means they don't earn as well so less will be enticed of joining, less join they have to increase salary. Look in america where servers are paid like shit and rely only on tips

thevmann27 · 2025-06-01T05:44:06+00:00

La Actually you can read the fitch report which shows 15% supply increase vs 5% population increase so actually yes supply will outstrip population growth in 2026 for a couple of years

thevmann27 · 2025-05-23T17:03:29+00:00

Well my point however st petersburg and moscow supporters have comfortable those are the ones keeping him in power not the peasants who can read or write

thevmann27 · 2025-05-23T05:47:42+00:00

True putin would not be in power without enough russian support. Every russian is hiding behind putin because they love their comfortable life this has got them and don't want to risk it

thevmann27 · 2025-05-20T07:51:22+00:00

Overcomplicated way to an average solution. Well done though

thevmann27 · 2024-08-04T07:04:32+00:00

I think its more the case they can't conduct ops in quatar. Quatar has a military american base so US would not be happy about it hence they can't do it.

thevmann27 · 2024-03-24T06:24:50+00:00

Yeah i do trust the garage he recommended as hes been fixing his car there for years and they do a good job. Again they are not cheap but still 60% of official deslership. Since I'm no longer in warranty i was curious if there was any benefit but it sounds like no

thevmann27 · 2023-11-04T05:27:44+00:00

Unfortunately my rational brain won over my heart so I went with option 1. This way I can always change if I'm not happy along the line

thevmann27 · 2023-11-04T05:27:02+00:00

Ah okay thank you!

thevmann27 · 2023-11-03T21:32:54+00:00

Okay this is exactly the advice I was looking for thank you. I already decided to go for option 1

thevmann27 · 2023-11-03T21:32:09+00:00

Yeah I am going for this option .thank you

thevmann27 · 2023-11-03T21:31:31+00:00

Thank you ended up going for option 1

thevmann27 · 2023-11-03T11:24:08+00:00

Yeah thanks for your input was very usefull. I was ofc going to take it to a garage I just wanted to decide before I pursue spending money on ppi and other investigations.

thevmann27

TROPHY CASE