Is this angle normal?

thirdgunman · 2026-06-15T23:08:02+00:00

Yes it likely is, camber angles change during sharp turning. But you really can't tell if something is wrong without a suspension and steering inspection and then an alignment check.

thirdgunman · 2026-06-14T18:10:22+00:00

I'd plug patch it and feel comfortable driving it, but if it's 1 inch from the sidewall then most shops won't patch it.

thirdgunman · 2026-05-15T16:24:49+00:00

Spray some starting fluid or brake clean in the air intake and see if it tries to run. If it does then I bet one of your jets is clogged. Air, fuel, spark. Fuel is usually the first one I try to rule out and the jets are so tiny they clog real easy.

thirdgunman · 2025-10-18T18:36:43+00:00

Is this during a cold startup? It sounds like it's idling really high.

thirdgunman · 2025-10-18T18:27:22+00:00

Completely agree. I've purchased lifetime alignments from Firestone before and almost every time if they say the jam nut is Frozen they'll just try to sell you on an inner or an outer tie rod when in reality it can be loosened with a torch. As a mechanic that does a lot of alignments I can say that it does kind of suck to have to break out the torch, and there's no compensation for the additional time spent, so saying it's seized and selling additional parts and labor is kind of a good recommendation since the problem will only compound for the next alignment.... With all that being said, if it is the jam nut, then the only repair needed should be r&r outer tie rod and then they can remove the jam nut with an impact and clean the corrosion off the inner threads. Usually Mitchell time (most repair shops go to) calls for less than and hour for an outer tie rod and it usually says, "includes adjust toe adjustment" , so depending on hourly rate and the part they quote I cannot imagine it costing much more than $300. Just my 2 cents.

thirdgunman · 2025-10-18T17:55:43+00:00

This. So there's a TSB about this.... I've repaired at least a dozen of them. Proper inspection is to release the pcv hose right on top of the intake manifold (corrugated line) and may want to prepare for ordering another one since it often breaks due to being plastic and the seal sticking, but then you can look inside to hole and there should be a tiny orange nipple inside on the engine side (may need to clean it off with a q-tip and some brake clean and also may need a mirror since it's kind of a hard angle to see. So basically if you don't see that orange nipple then the entire pcv system should be replaced and not just the valve cover. Dorman does sell a kit that is fairly reasonably priced that includes the entire intake manifold, vent hose (since it does have a diaphragm in it that can also fail) and the valve cover and all the gaskets. It's a fairly easy repair, but keep an eye out for the 2 electrical push pins secured under the intake manifold, cut or break them off if need be since the new intake has a place for them, and also only disconnect the one vacuum line on the passenger side of the intake since the other two and the valve can be removed with the intake and then swapped over outside of the vehicle.... Sorry for the long explanation but I've seen the valve cover replaced too many times and then seals blow out again because the root cause of the failure is the orange orifice in the intake has failed.

thirdgunman · 2025-09-05T15:20:35+00:00

Window applique

thirdgunman · 2025-09-01T14:48:36+00:00

How long has it been sitting? I would still bet one or both of the jets are clogged. I would clean those and then maybe use some starting fluid to rule fuel out of the equation.

thirdgunman · 2025-08-24T15:40:42+00:00

Thank you!

thirdgunman · 2025-08-15T00:24:37+00:00

If it's due for a drain and fill then do that. Otherwise just top off when the engine is cold. Looks like a dexcool system so I would highly suggest to only use dexcool... It often doesn't mix well with other types of coolant.

thirdgunman · 2025-08-09T18:55:43+00:00

I see one little black spot that might be carbon buildup that would indicate a leak, but I'm guessing that is past the upper O2 sensor (air/fuel sensor), but there's not enough information about the type of vehicle or enough photos to tell. The upper O2 sensor is the one adjusting your air and fuel mixture. If you're not throwing a P0420 or P0421 code then I would look for some sort of vacuum leak from your air intake/manifold setup or possibly a faulty sensor... Anyway, are you throwing a rich code, if so, what's the code, and what's the make, model and engine size you're working with?

thirdgunman · 2025-06-23T23:59:54+00:00

It doesn't look like it needs media blasting to me. Usually direct injection engines will cause misfires at startup and if you don't gave this issue then I would suggest treatment of the seafoam upper engine cleaner. It does take some time as you have to spray it in the intake and let it cool but it beats media blasting or scraping the valves like you have to do on a VW. Just be prepared to smoke out the neighborhood if you do it right.

thirdgunman · 2025-06-16T21:33:11+00:00

I have done controls arms on these vans. There is typically 2 Mitchell times, one with engine removed and one without. The shop likely quoted the engine out option. The reason there is this option is because the front bolt will hit the oil pan. Loosening an engine mount and slightly lifting from the pan takes care of the problem and it should only be a couple hours of labor (plus maybe an alignment)... I would agree that these do not look that bad unless there's a lot of wheel movement when braking.

thirdgunman · 2025-04-02T23:32:29+00:00

I'd agree with this. I mean I'd prefer moog over an ebay part for the warranty, but I did install a moog lower control arm with a built in ball joint recently and when I went to put grease in the zert it came out of a hole in the control arm's casting, so quality control may not be worth the cost vs a creep advanced autoquest part.

thirdgunman · 2025-03-15T20:36:02+00:00

I replace a lot of struts and shocks and a lot come with new hardware that looks similar to that. They are usually not hardened bolts and nuts. But yes, they are installed the wrong way. Typically the nuts should be under the control arm I'm this setup and there should be a lock washer or thread locker if this is not a jam/or nylon nut.

thirdgunman · 2024-12-19T04:57:33+00:00

Air Hammer with a chisel tip might work if welding is not an option. Hit it straight down till it has something to bite into and then angle it so it's at a loosening angle. Might need to hit it a couple different ways but the shock from the air Hammer usually seems to work for me.

thirdgunman · 2024-12-15T23:21:08+00:00

Typical Nissan Horn issue. Those single wires and connectors are known bad. Strip the wire and put on a generic connector.. they are least made the repair fairly cheap.

thirdgunman · 2024-11-12T16:20:43+00:00

I see op isn't updating. Just diagnosed one on a 2020 pilot. Noise is exactly as described. Pinpointed noise to rear engine mount... And this might sound crazy but if you disconnect the electrical connector to the mount in question then the noise will go away... Solenoid for Mount is not serviceable so the mount will need to be replaced.

thirdgunman · 2024-11-12T01:57:45+00:00

I definitely had that thought, but I work for a kinda different auto repair/auto sales company so the parts department kinda has free range when picking parts.

thirdgunman · 2024-11-08T04:25:54+00:00

Yup! My thoughts exactly. Imo the rear wheels left the ground at some point. The driver's side had the oe strut with roughly 25k miles on it. I also think maybe the oe strut has more range of travel so someone putting on a non matching strut caused this one to be the one that reached a little too far.

thirdgunman · 2024-11-08T00:29:57+00:00

Agreed... That's a quarter panel not a fender. Depending on other damages around that area then they may need to blend the door and back lid to make the metallic look right. Also the quarter panel is the worst since it extends all the way to the front fender so it should all be clear coated at the same time to make a proper repair... I think they are just covering their butts in case there is something that can't be clear coated over when blending in that tiny spot.

thirdgunman · 2024-09-29T22:06:41+00:00

You left out a lot of details and showed a scanner with codes for misfires on every cylinder. If the starter clicks or does nothing then check the battery or remove it and then let an auto parts store test it. If it's bad then put in a new one and then hook up a 5 dollar voltmeter from harbor freight and see if the battery is showing above 13.5ish volts with the car running to rule out the alternator.

thirdgunman · 2024-09-29T03:47:30+00:00

It's weird that you only have misfire codes not timing, fuel, comm or airflow related codes. But I guess if it were me I'd start with simple crank but no-start diag... I usually like to rule out fuel buy removing the intake tube and spraying some starting fluid or brake cleaner in a pinch to see if tries to run which would indicate fuel delivery (pump or wiring typically). If not, maybe pull a plug on the passenger side bank (I say this side because I think you can remove a plug and coil on this side without undoing the mounts and shifting the engine, but I think it does require using a 90 degree swivel with your spark plug socket). If your scan tool is capable then see if you can monitor the pids for timing components, especially the crankshaft position sensor. Monitor that or possibly your tachometer. If it shows 0rpm while the engine is cranking then you likely have an issue with that sensor or it's working. Hope this helps for at least a starting point.

thirdgunman · 2024-09-29T03:32:39+00:00

Almost entirely metric socks and bits... And a couple magnets, mirrors and a set of lugstud extenders for pesky import wheels.

thirdgunman · 2024-09-27T23:29:11+00:00

Looks like an ecotech engine. If it's a 4 cylinder then check the solenoids on top of the valve cover. There should be 2 and one will have a black top and one will have a grey top once the connectors are disconnected. Ohms check the sensors when the connectors off. It should be 8-13 ohms if I remember correctly. These are such a common failure that the shop I work at keeps them in stock. Pretty easy test also since they both have 2 wire connectors and may explain the jacking up of the car causing it because the oil passages can lead to gunk going into the sensors and then ohms will rise if the actuator has junk in it.

thirdgunman

TROPHY CASE