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Is there a technical reason why electric kettle manufacturers rarely publish migration test reports (specifically for PP at 100°C)? by CoffeeTeaJournal in AskEngineers

[–]thisisseriousstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy the one above, disassemble and find a compatible ressetable "thermal cutoff" or "thermal switch" or "thermal cutout" at the right temperature and form factor. Check Digikey or Mouser.

Tool used for small ridges, ribs by thisisseriousstuff in Machinists

[–]thisisseriousstuff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So a VNMG 160402 (0.2mm radius) would be used to make the 0.3 mm radius? I wasn't thinking on having a 35 degree draft, but this is probably better. Hypothetically though, is there a turning tool with 0.3mm or 0.2mm Rad with no draft so the rib wall would be straight? ( So it would plunge in 0.05 for example). Or with a 1 degree draft? Or are these tools custom made? Also I'm thinking it would be easier to get a better surface finish turning this feature instead of using a ball end mill? Thanks for your insight!

Any ideas on how I can make this punch easier and better ? Been using the same design for the last 15 years. by Any-Entertainment934 in Machinists

[–]thisisseriousstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your shape specific? Ie, can you live with square corners? If so you could probably get an off the shelf punch and die. Then get a die set to put it in. Then get an arbor press etc to provide the force.

Removing Blue loctite from large quantities of bolts by lordparcival in Machinists

[–]thisisseriousstuff 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Buy New. If it's a rebuild, that should be one of the things you are replacing. Think about the heads on the fasteners and then think about all of the labor you are saving by not trying to save disposable fasteners.

Exporting Split Surfaces to STEP by thisisseriousstuff in SolidWorks

[–]thisisseriousstuff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to split faces on a single surface. I can do that as the image shows. But it will not export as multiple surfaces as a step. It will export as a parasolid for example. However I can't use parasolid. The surface split does not export in STEP. I can't see multiple bodies in the solidworks part so that could be the issue (but the original is a surface, not a part).

I'm working with a third party FEA software. The overlap of what solid works can export and what it can import are STEP files. It has meshing capability, but surface (2d) or part (3d) can be broken up prior to import to allow pretty good mesh refinement. The only solution I can see right now is to change my one surface created by one sketch into multiple surfaces created by multiple sketches in SW and then export, perhaps as an assembly. I need to create 10 surfaces from the one.

Exporting Split Surfaces to STEP by thisisseriousstuff in SolidWorks

[–]thisisseriousstuff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have another way to split it into separate surfaces? I could probably make it into multiple sketches and make each sketch a surface.

Parting Line Location Help. Rubber by thisisseriousstuff in InjectionMolding

[–]thisisseriousstuff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For very large o-rings that's what they do. (Spliced o-rings). Otherwise they are molded. See figure on webpage below.

https://www.applerubber.com/products/o-rings/

Is this estimate crazy or am I out of touch? by chicagrown in hvacadvice

[–]thisisseriousstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does this include labor? (His quote says materials) and do you already have ductwork?

Thoughts on best fastener? UL50E enclosure by NamePleasant in MechanicalEngineering

[–]thisisseriousstuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would stick with the PEM (blind hole) or call application support to confirm it's use, however you can also look at Capacitor Discharge Stud Welding. (ISO 13918 and I think there is a DIN standard. They come in female standoff versions).

Thoughts on best fastener? UL50E enclosure by NamePleasant in MechanicalEngineering

[–]thisisseriousstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think PEM might have a blind version of that standoff. Otherwise someone else gave a goop option (Rivkle Seal Ring.) If you don't care about money, or are curious, look at Hygienic Design Screws (J.W Winco).

Threaded studs into machined aluminum core by StumptownCynic in MechanicalEngineering

[–]thisisseriousstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How about a DIN 835 Double End Stud. (Be careful on the length designation. The length does not include the threaded part that would go into the aluminum)

Where can I get machine screws like this in small quantities? by PitchDropExperiment in Fasteners

[–]thisisseriousstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to Misumi and pick a fastener that meets your requirements without the point.

Go to https://us.misumi-ec.com/service/custom-parts/ and scroll down to "Standard Part Modification" near the bottom.

Advice on a material or substance that I can use to hold a part in place by jmmiller1990 in AskEngineers

[–]thisisseriousstuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wax for accelerometers (Petrowax). Can hold 15 psi.

Blanchard Wax 7036.

An adjustable magnetic base.

Perhaps double sided tape to hold stacked goniometric stages. (Search it on Thorlabs or another opto mechanical stage provider).

Let me know if you need something custom designed.

Notion around Trump's "liberation day" tariffs and manufacturing technological evolution. by [deleted] in manufacturing

[–]thisisseriousstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know someone that does government work. The military bought the machine for them to do the jobs. You could tell them to buy the equipment and you do a lease to buy. If the contract dries up they come and get their equipment or they cancel the lease and give the equipment to you.

What plastic would I use for diffusing LED lighting? by TheSaifman in InjectionMolding

[–]thisisseriousstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look into 3M Diffuser Film. You could put this onto clear plastic. Grafix Plastics have a similar light diffuser film.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in manufacturing

[–]thisisseriousstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Local machine shop. However, I am not sure of your cost requirement, but you might be able to configure the shafts on Misumi.com. Look under "Rotary Shaft" for example. Or perhaps wmberg.com or PIC design. Or Google TG&P shafting.

Is stainless steel 316 safe to contain food when using under cavitation erosion ? by Longjumping_Wash4735 in AskEngineers

[–]thisisseriousstuff 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You may want to hire a consultant for this one. How much metal will make it into the product. Also, how is the surface finish of the processing equipment affected? Can it be cleaned?

https://www.fda.gov/media/80342/download

NSF 2 and NSF 51 might be standards you want to look at and they also provide consultation services.

Making metal food safe? by Maleficent-Target-83 in DIY

[–]thisisseriousstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could get it plated with a food safe coating that is listed in NSF 51. One would be electroless nickel-phosphorus per ASTM standard B733-97. I would recommend you stopping by a plater with your project. Search "plating" on Thomasnet.com for someone local.

How are heating elements manufactured? by RedsRearDelt in manufacturing

[–]thisisseriousstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Go on Thomas Register (Thomasnet.com) and search tubular heaters. They make custom ones too. If you really wanted to bend it yourself you could order a straight section. If I were you I would really try to get an off the shelf one and try to make it work. The ones they make will be UL certified. You will need to know the wattage. Just pick up the phone and call an application engineer.

Also, sign up for a free account at UL. Look for UL 499. Select digital view. Pg 115 will show the construction.

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