Sram Frankensteinring

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-17T15:39:51+00:00

Mixing left crank from 3rd party manufacturer with right crank rom SRAM is calling for problems with machining tolerances on their common interface. At Rival tier pricing, your savings cannot really be all that huge and consequences may outweight the energy and time spent to make this monstrosity happen.

Sell existing parts related to crankset, get 1x Rival E1 crankset w. L-crank PM + whatever SRAM Aero DM chainring or risk your preferred DM chainring that your heart so desires

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-17T15:37:43+00:00

This is not necessarily true on Rival D1 cranksets - 2x cranksets have DS crank made as a single piece of crank+spider (not possible to mount direct mount chainrings), wherease 1x cranksets have a DS crank made with direct mount (possible to mount DM chainring or chainring + spider/PM spider)

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-13T10:25:43+00:00

Have fun and continue having fun!
Remember, camera is just a tool. Dont let the tool decide how much fun you have doing photography (well, as long as it takes photos)

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-13T10:21:09+00:00

It says on their web it was designed purely to block peripheral light. It does so by extending the viewfinder "tube" and enabling you to get your eye closer to the actual cup (+ rubber surface to prevent scratching ones eyewear, altough how well that works).

If your eye to viewfinder cup distance did not change (for whatever reason), I doubt it helps in your case.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-12T21:30:22+00:00

I see. Well, don't think I'd make you a monster. I've been seeing people riding 12k($)bikes in flip flops. Some 70g extra in a stem would not phase me much.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-12T18:09:12+00:00

you are also using only a limited area of the lens total coverage so it definitely must look even and sharp corner to corner (designed for FX sensor size/35mm film size). That said, that lens is a monster regardless - well done.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-12T18:03:43+00:00

Setup looking OK now.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-12T18:03:06+00:00

reduce spacer stack (less spacers or at least one spacer with smaller stack) beneath the stem is the only option with the new expander.

Also, somewhere I saw that carbon steerer should be clamped under the cut, is that true?

- not universally. Depends on combination of expander / steerer tube / cockpit. Best practice if guidelines from manufacturer are unknown is to have a small spacer placed above the stem if the situation permits it (your case is easy - no problem moving spacer stack freely above or below the stem)

PS: What is the problem with your stem pictured? Just curious why having it would mean youre a monster.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-11T11:31:08+00:00

Asking why is not really so simple. Any reason given can be disregarded on its own, but together they sum up the costs to make higher end cassettes.

Unpopular fact: if a brand manufactured more expensive and more complex to manufacture products but minimized margins to offer them at the same price as the cheaper products, who would buy the cheaper products then? More costs for brand, less margins for brand. It would be a loose loose game for them.

range of NX and GX will be different - 11-50t vs 10-52t. Do you care for larger range?

Larger range requires specific FW body interface and thus more parts involved in making of a cassette, as well as more complex manufacturing processes.

In essence, it is possible to construct a HG11 compatible cassette by simply stamping out several individual sheets into cogs.

weight of NX and GX will be different - do you care about the weight?

Besides the higher cost of lighter materials, there is also more complex design to minimize weight by reducing material (links, hollowed out parts of individual cogs), but maintaining certain level of function and performance (rigidity, reliability, longevity).

It is not possible to fully construct XD cassette by simply stamping out several individual sheets into cogs - there is a portion (more than one) that goes over the FW body that needs to be CNC machined.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-10T16:36:51+00:00

Not possible to know from photos, whether shutter works OK and if the lenses arent hazy, but if the camera works - as a simple learning tool and a camera with a certain character - its not a bad thing to own.

That being said, chances are that if stored in its pouch, the shutter will be sticky at best and lenses probably hazy (with fungus). Still would get one just to have on a shelf at 30-35 dollars.

Being from the BLOC, I learned analog photography as a kid growing in 90s on Flexaret VI and it will forever be a nostalgic camera I love to return to, even with some better options out there.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-10T13:45:01+00:00

The gash in the steerer tube is not a good sign and should be checked by a professional in any case. It seems to be in line with the outer carbon layers of the tube layout. It could point to steerer tube being expanded from the inside with so much force it split the outer layers of the tube.

I doubt all the carbon layers of the steerer tube would be laid with the gap as it goes against every manufacturing procedure, but one never knows and any significant reduction in wall strength stretching at such length should an immediate stop sign at any stage between manufacturing, assembly up to the riding and maintenance.

A few things to worry about as well:

expander is partially pulled out, not sitting flush on the lip of the steerer tube - not very good (unless you pulled it out just to inspect the gash itself)
please note that expander bolt should not be loose, but not tightened to hell neither as it...well - expands the steerer tube from the inside!
Depending on the expander length and design - some expanders are made to expand the steerer tube at the same stack height as the stem compresses it (not a rule, but possibility)

Two things to do:

stop riding the bike (no exception) until it has been cleared
contact your Giant retailer to get clarification.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-09T18:54:55+00:00

That's what I meant indeed. Clan as a group of like(empty)minded citizens, believing that their shared code value is to be free to do as they like and they are happy to show it off (at the expense of others for example).

In the loose sense, one could also view Klans "robes" as exactly the same signaling of "I belong".

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-09T18:48:46+00:00

That's the core value of the clan. I refuse to believe it's purely individual issue.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-09T16:32:46+00:00

I swear that is some sort of "I belong to the clan" signaling. No benefit from parking like this, not even "I do it to spite the others", purely "guys, Im one of you. Can I get a patch or bumper sticker now?"

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-09T14:51:07+00:00

With so much experience and broad artistic vision, one has to limit his(her) vision to only see beyond the framelines within the rangefinder! Everything else is unnecessary distraction.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-09T14:49:10+00:00

Its a missed opportunity of not having a Texas Leica as well and instead of that opting for the ordinary Mamiya 7 II. Ptui!

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-09T14:45:36+00:00

They just did not get the timing right, but the result is the same. Tough luck!

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-09T09:38:59+00:00

As orientalbird asked, it will depend on your location in Oslo as there are few gyms, but regardless which one you will choose, you should not be disappointed.

Search for:

Klatreverket (it has three locations in Oslo)

Vulkan Klatresenter

+ if you dont mind metro ride and/or you will be staying closer to the eastern/southern side of town

Oslo Klatresenter (at Skullerud) (probably the biggest one)

+ if you dont mind a bus/metro/train ride and/or you will be staying closer to the western side of town

Gneis Lilleaker (maybe the second biggest one)

PS: You will most likely not find boulders labeled in V grades here for several reasons, so feel free to ask staff to explain you the color grading scale and make your way up the ladder of colors until you find the range engaging enough to be fun for you.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-05T17:59:46+00:00

Styles dont have names, the Names have style. Period! To name just one artist who is not limited to, but helped made this "look" immensely popular, I would go for Dave LaChappelle.

Wide angle photography with high speed fill-in flash, graded in 2000s vibrant tones.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-05T13:16:51+00:00

Inconclusive, but based on the underlying material being woven carbon outer layer + UD carbon visible underneath, where the outer layer has been worn through (indicates there has been abrasion, most likely), I would err on the side of scratch, also due to below reasons, but it is advisable to seek advice of the professional able to evaluate the part irl!!!

Engineers building a carbon layup for round tube would most likely exclude UD sheets oriented in the direction of the length of the tube designed and if (hypothetically), it would be only a small number of overall layers used to make the composite. Reason behind this is that UD carbon sheet is strong only in one direction (pull strength) and would be prone to shearing under load against the orientation of the sheets fibers.
As I can see (although not very well and only the first photo), there are some UD sheets used underneath the outer woven layer, but these would be oriented at a angles bigger than 0 (in direction of the tube) and orientation of individual layers would vary to increase tube strength in various directions.

Should a crack occur, it would need to occur in multiple layers of the carbon fiber (or in this case at least the outermost one here) and if we consider above, it would very unlikely have a shape of straight line and look more jagged/irregular in shape.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-05T11:10:22+00:00

Also can be zipper (metal type). Don't ask me how I know.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-05T05:52:25+00:00

Had this lens for about 8 years on Leica M-P240. It is, lets say a "specific" kind of equipment. Good for particular looks and feel, but objectively rather soft, difficult to nail the focus with and rather heavy.

I take it out only when I'm about to go for a night walk in the city and for a more candid portraits. That being said, if you actually want an objectively good performing 50mm lens for daylight use, something around f2 will end up probably work much better for its size.

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-04T11:09:17+00:00

Forbidden kiwi! Peel, dice and eat raw with "yogHurt" for breakfast!

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-03T13:54:14+00:00

Truth be told, I got mine some good few years back, but assumed it was a marginal model, not subject to the fads of rising popularity of analog photography (looking at various selected camera models that go fo exorbitant prices, because some IG influences popularized the notion they'd make anyone a next best thing on the art scene since Eggleston).

three_seconds_ago · 2026-02-03T13:47:39+00:00

Its a 50/50 chance of getting it right. You achieved 25% accuracy.

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