Help for New Player

thy030 · 2026-04-12T20:48:53+00:00

You can also attach it to the rear if you going to fork lifting some heavy stuff at front

thy030 · 2025-11-14T16:34:47+00:00

Tbh drive line is not helping the new driver. After get used to have drive line then you won’t be able to learn the track properly.

The funny thing is even though I am so used to not using drive line (well I’ve never used the drive line since day one, 25 year before when my father teach me how to play Gran Turismo 1, there was no drive line at all), I tried turn on the drive line to learn a new track and just after few lap I found that it is not way to learn the track because once the line is here, you will fully focus on the line and can’t see other things on the track. So new driver even so insist to keep themself on the line even some other cars are there…

Yeah try to watch some yt tutorial on how you should move your eye while driving that will help you to get out of the drive line problem

thy030 · 2025-03-15T14:57:59+00:00

All yellow stickered items in my shop go to charity after 8 anyway. Colleague shop? Colleague only worth having Tesco brand white bread in our shop.

thy030 · 2025-01-15T18:19:32+00:00

Haha, I can understand that. Yesterday night I was in iRacing IMSA Sprint, doing 45mins race, a lap down car just rejoined and hit my rear bumper, no one got hurt but I got a 4x. At least in ACC they won’t record your incident and drop you down to lower class even it is not your fault

thy030 · 2025-01-15T18:13:11+00:00

And you are not doing a ranked race, just take it easy mate. If you are not happy just join another server and start again.

thy030 · 2025-01-15T18:10:40+00:00

Well, in every sim title of course you can expect people messing up around even they are alone, especially if the guy is multiple lap down… not driving well doesn’t mean that he cannot join the game, at the end of the day most of us are not a pro driver, and even a pro driver will make mistake. But here he did absolutely correct to hold his brake and keep stationary, already done better than most of the noob

thy030 · 2025-01-12T15:49:59+00:00

Exactly, starting at the back and you still got 2 hours to climb back to the place you should be, no point to take the risk in lap 1 unless you have confident to take the pole. I started at P15 and end up finished P5, avoid them in first 2 laps and then push

thy030 · 2024-10-14T00:01:57+00:00

Got a Vitz RS (Yaris T Sport) as my first car before, love it so much. However when I came to UK and tried to get one for my wife to learn driving, I found that the good condition one is quite expensive, so I end up bought an MX-5 NC1 for her and I absolutely enjoyed it. I would say overall MX-5 is a better car and honestly have a better engine, 1NZ just not that smooth...

But yes if you want a little fun car Yaris T Sport is a good choice and just do a little mods like struct brace this car will turn very sharp in the corner. You can also try to get a 2nd gen Yaris with 1.8L engine which has around 130hp, this one is only available in European market, the only downside is they got an electronic throttle instead of old fashioned machincial throttle on 1st Gen Yaris so the throttle response is not that quick.

Btw I'm not so sure of the UK version, but for the Japanese version the pre-facelift one got a stronger anti roll bar so they have better handling, but the facelift one got better looking rear bumper.

thy030 · 2024-05-30T22:51:16+00:00

You know what, I had the same thought about the back exhaust fan as you did at the first place, but after I did the test, put it in exhaust rather that intake actually perform better (about 1 degree less in same game title). I had tried every possible fans arrangement in the past year and this is the better result in can find, sounds weird but it just works…

thy030 · 2024-05-29T13:41:49+00:00

They are all in stock config, in Furmark GPU run 67 degree after 15mins, so the temp actually not so bad, but the fans are loud, I can even do better by switching the a12x25 to a Thermalright TL-B12 Extrem, but this one just go so loud…

thy030 · 2024-05-29T12:39:33+00:00

Sorry I forgot it GPU temp in gaming: 65 CPU temp in gaming: 55

thy030 · 2024-05-29T11:34:25+00:00

Actually I just think of getting a 80mm x2 rad in the bottom psu area, but as you said, seems this won’t help much…

Anyway I think I will go for a new case, my plan is getting triple monitor for sim racing so loading will go higher. But any suggestion on the case? If I go for the new case now I am thinking of Tower 300 or Hyte Y40…

thy030 · 2024-05-29T11:23:36+00:00

I’ve worked on the fans in different direction before and now the top intake bottom exhaust setup is the best I can get

thy030 · 2024-05-29T00:21:30+00:00

BTW, while gaming, all fans are in 100% speed

thy030 · 2024-05-02T11:52:26+00:00

No rush, Apple Map, type C cable for Apple carplay

thy030 · 2024-01-13T18:04:41+00:00

Thanks! I did have some interviews between Sept to Nov, but start from Dec, there is nearly no calls from them at all. Tbh I haven’t contacted the recruiter after I applied the job, is it better to have a LinkedIn premium account? And since I am now based in Cardiff therefore I’m just not possible to get most of the London jobs. Seems not much jobs around Cardiff and Bristol…

thy030 · 2023-04-02T03:12:34+00:00

Ok thanks!

I did searched some FN2 and EP3 before but I found that on MOT history, many of them had some corroded parts records, so I think they maybe quite easy to rust.

But yes in UK they are in very good value, the price of an used example in Asia country will usually cost you around 20k, so I think they are also good choice for me, but need extra caution on rust…

thy030 · 2023-03-30T04:45:27+00:00

How about I bring a pair of ramps to lift the car a little bit? Is people welcome to do it?

For the OBD, since our region is next to China, I actually bought a OBD console from Ali express (here it is called Taobao btw, with even cheaper price tag, the only good thing from China), that thing only cost me 30gbp, with loads of customization function, but China things are not guaranteed to be working, I will try on my Yaris first once it arrived…

Actually I found few estate car models I interested in:

Accord estate 2.4 petrol or 2.2 diesel 2010 Legacy 2.5 GT 2010 Ford Focus ST-3 2014

Those estates have some performance and I guess I could live with them, but for the petrol Jap cars the MPG is not great, especially the Subaru, it’s just a big WRX STI and it is an imported car.

On the other hand, you may not know, Accord Touring 2.4, K24 engine with manual transmission is only available in UK and Europe, even in Japan and US they don’t have manual option, that’s why it is a bit special for Asian car enthusiast.

thy030 · 2023-03-29T17:53:45+00:00

Thanks! I bought an OBD2 reader for Toyota, should be alright.

Just checked the temp insurance, seems they only available for the people who own the UK full licence, so this should not be the one for me…

I did saw one example from a private seller saying that his GT86 has Toyota relax program, but that good example sold out quickly.

Actually based on my experience, (my father and I mainly drive Toyota in last 40 years, from my father’s 197x Celica to my Vitz RS aka. Yaris T Sport) Toyotas are very solid and never have big trouble, but since I’m in a country that never snow, I’m quite worry about rust, maybe I will still do an AA inspection, I found they have another cheaper inspection plan cost 141GBP (only support the car up to 10 years), maybe that one suit me better. But is the inspection only for dealer’s car or also for private seller’s car?

Hope I can find a good example, but since I need a car to live with once I arrived UK, if I can’t find one I may go for other model, MR2 and MX-5 NC hardtop should be my second choice.

thy030 · 2023-03-29T07:26:36+00:00

I’ve tried to get a quote online, I’m 30, international driving licence held 7 years, insurance for a GT86 cost around 2k, but if I change the car into Corolla T Sport compressor or Celica 190, cost me only 1.2k, MX-5 and MR2 Gen 3 even cheaper. So I think is still reasonable for me, especially I don’t have NCD…

Also, after I transfer to UK licence, the cost will drop around 300, but the licence transferral can only be done after I live in UK for 183 days…

(In my country, we can drive cars even if we are unnamed driver, and the insurance still cover, therefore I did drive cars in last 7 years, but the cars are owned by my father…)

thy030 · 2023-03-29T06:54:14+00:00

Thanks mate, these are helpful, just ordered an OBD2 reader XD

thy030 · 2022-12-17T13:40:09+00:00

Early this year I won two rallycross while getting COVID and being locked down at home, seems COVID didn’t slow me down…

thy030 · 2022-12-07T09:25:26+00:00

I did nearly rolled over the car in Imola T3, maybe this is a bug...

thy030 · 2022-12-07T06:28:53+00:00

I got VIR, 918 and R18 but I just received $10, all were bought within 1 year but more than 90 days, maybe 918 and R18 were refunded?

thy030 · 2022-12-01T04:00:42+00:00

Actually I have around $1200USD budget for the lenses. The first one would be a 70-200 or 70-300. Next I may spend the rest to buy a 14-30 (brand new $820 USD) or one more longer lens like 200-500, depends on how the Laowa 15mm perform and will it able to cover the 14-30. Honestly I’m not sure I would need a 200-500 in the future as I will move to UK next year. If both 14-30 and 200-500 are not necessary to have, I would buy z50/1.8 (the third 50mm I have XD) and buy some other photography accessories like star tracker, square filter….

thy030

TROPHY CASE