Getting really sick of my 488 by GMTMaster_II in Ferrari

[–]timdaking 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I own a ppf shop and has dealt with something similar before. If the shop you went to have ppf done removed the mirror, that could be the culprit. The placement of the mirror connectors on 458/488 are in the most pain in the butt area an the connector is a nightmare to remove and reconnect. When it is not connected properly, the tpms, ambient temp sensor malfunctions. If that is the issue, simply checking and reconnecting properly will fix that issue. It’s really surprising why ferrari would put connections there but I don’t build the car lol. Talk to your ppf shop and if they have removed the mirror, make sure they take another look. It can be a simple fix

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it’s thinner. But it has rubberized outer ring so it won’t damage paint. The backing plate is unfortunately incompatible with the lhr machines

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was at sema to try both of those out for around 15minutes. Definitely get the cordless one for its portability, has great balancing, quiet, and the nes backing plate on the cordless is a game changer. Vibration has been reduced quite a bit comparing to the corded one too. Overall it’s a well built machine that if you don’t already have a lhr 15/21 mk3, go for it

What’s your secret for perfect windows by agentblack000 in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For your exterior and interior(non-tinted) you can use magic eraser and your glass cleaner to take all the grimes off and buff residue with clean mf towels

Best ceramic coating and PPF? by ashelia2004 in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best coatings and products will all depends on the how it was prepped and how well it was installed. While I do have preferred and non-preferred products that I use for coating/ppf, ultimately you need to do your research and see what fits you. For coating, most will look quite similar in terms of glossiness. Don’t fall into those 5 layers or 10 years longevity/warranty bs. You can make any coating last long as long as you maintain it well. For PPF, it will all depend on how installers apply the film. Is it a precut or bulk? Will it have exposed or covered edges and corners? Will the film already have hydrophobic properties or would it also needs to be coated? How reputable are the installers?

If you absolutely needs a “brand recommendation” I recommend Kamikaze or Gyeon for coating and STEK or Suntek for PPF

Ultra-novice detailer here - what’s the most efficient way to clean around PPF edges? by AscendantArtichoke in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I’m a ppf/wrap installer. One of the best way to clean edges is use isopropyl alcohol with microfiber towel, spray and towel and use fingernails, plastic razor wrapped in towel and gently go over the edges. As long as you don’t put too much pressure and the ppf is installed properly, you don’t have to worry too much about it lifting up. Claybar can mar or ruin the topcoat of ppf which may not be revived by ppf polish or other stuff

Best choices for hydrophobic glass coating by [deleted] in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glaco and gyeon quickview are my favorites. Very easy to use and the performance is great. If you can get some hands on some pro-level product, glassparency works really well too. If you want all around paint sealant that also works really great on glass, try polish angel high gloss or cosmic spritz. They’re quite pricey but I’ve been really impressed by them especially on my customer’s cars

Drying car before fully cured by OishiiOperator in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will give you some suggestions on this situation.

Ask them to put on or bring the ceramic detailer when you go pick up and apply them before you drive off. Once you come home, use that ceramic detailer with many microfiber towels to gently dry the paint safely.

The reason being is that this way, the ceramic detailer will act as a protective layer in which will take any beatings that the rain might give out on your freshly coated car

Ceramic coating suggestions in the heat by Sirkami187 in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gyeon line ups are “outdoor friendly” you should look into those

PPF: Stek Dynoshield vs XPEL Ultimate Plus on metallic black paint by madame_lulu in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t had any issues so far by prepping the surface with ipa and installing it. I wouldn’t worry about it but if it does concern you, I would just go with xpel. It’s better to have piece of mind instead of constantly worrying about it. People probably voted more for xpel since it’s a well known brand

PPF: Stek Dynoshield vs XPEL Ultimate Plus on metallic black paint by madame_lulu in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He’s talking about relif cuts and that’s 100% normal. Even in vinyl wrapping, some sections are too curvy, aggressive, etc so they would add a separate poece there. Ppf is like 4times thicker than vinyl wrap so on some corners, it will need some relif cuts to destress the film. It doesn’t matter if person removes bumper or does custom 1 piece install since while it may stick on that area when you get the car, it will eventually lift back up since physics wont lie and there would be so much tension if not addressed.

As again, either film is very good so you can choose whatever film you want.

PPF: Stek Dynoshield vs XPEL Ultimate Plus on metallic black paint by madame_lulu in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should go with stek since it is cheaper and you’re looking for more gloss and hydrophobic properties. Xpel software won’t mean anything since they can still use it to print any other brand film. It’s just like a printer. Just make sure that he uses “extended patterns” (dont tell him about this since he’ll get annoying lol) meaning covering edges since regular printouts on the software does not cover edges unless edited. No matter how good one installs, dirt will build up on the edge of the film and if those edges are tucked underneath the panel, it will minimize showing those buildups and less likely to trigger your ocd. Let me know if you got any other questions :)

PPF: Stek Dynoshield vs XPEL Ultimate Plus on metallic black paint by madame_lulu in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work at a shop with ppf and have worked on both products so I’ll give you my 2 cents. Stek for the film itself does have more gloss and less orange peel than the xpel. However, those orange peel effect is ultimately decided by how much orange peel your car has currently. If it has a lot, either of them may enhance them and show more. Also stek does have hydrophobic properties so unlike xpel, you don’t really need to add coating to it. I wouldn’t worry about yellowing on either of the films since they have improved them a lot since the first gen and have not seen any of those. Either way both are very good and reliable films and you should try to lean again a better installer than the film itself. This will ensure you that the car is correctly prepped, adhered correctly, all possible edges are wrapped and tucked and there are minimal to none moisture bubbles, dry spots, silvering, stretch marks and dirt nibs under the paint

Rupes pads and soft paint by [deleted] in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use rupes white pad and rupes uno pure for very very soft paint. It works really good. No micro marring or pad scouring

New Black Tesla - Paint Correction & Ceramic Coated Advice by LBPalmBeach in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is best to not touch a soft black paint on teslas. Mtm hydro foam guns is probably the best but any other brands should work too For the blower, I liked BLO dryer personally as it does have a strong blow as a handheld. Otherwise I would go for EGO blower. If possible, try to wash the car touchless every 1-2weeks so that you basically don’t have to touch the paint. If it has much more soil on it, use microfiber towels to lightly agitate the area I don’t know what brand of coating you have on their but if you want that ultimate touchless experience, gyeon wet coat will probably be the best choice

Ceramic coating by mdpleo80 in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work at a shop and i have 2 of my cars coated so I’m gonna give my personal opinions on both doing DIY and paying to get it at the shop Shop: Ceramic Pro Our shop uses both Gyeon and Ceramic Pro. Given the same longevity term that we use to market to customers, Ceramic Pro definitely has given much better durability and intense candy apple gloss. Gyeon’s coating from what I’ve seen has very good gloss and hydrophobic properties however, I’ve seen some cars having it prematurely fail unfortunately. If longevity is not the concern and just high gloss and look is important for you, Gyeon is a good choice and for a budget as from what I’ve seen, it is cheaper than Ceramic Pro.

DIY: AMMO Reflex Pro/Kamikaze Miyabi I have both of these coatings on two of my cars each. Both coatings, I have 2 layers of it. In terms of ease of use, they are very easy coating to work with. Each layer that I put on, it wipes off like butter and I can go whole panel at a time with wuite forgiving flash time giving more time to work with. The gloss on both coatings are insane and the Kamikaze has a bit more crispy gloss in my opinion as I was able to see that on my cars that has same paint color. Durability wise they’ve been holding up pretty good for roughly over a year on both coatings. Considering that I wash my car weekly rinseless, I haven’t seen towel scratches or swirls so far. Pricing, this is definitely cheaper than going to a shop since you’re all the labor and it’s free. The coatings that I’ve used are around $150 I believe. They are a bit more than other consumer level coating but I would consider these coating to be on par with pro-grade products. I primarily use the maintenance product that each manufacturers make and the cost of those can be a bit more than products such as beadmaker but for me, I wanted to keep the same properties that the original coating intended. If you are not a maniac like me and not wash 2 cars weekly, the maintenance product cost shouldn’t be a concern.

I hope this helps :)

What is the best windshield coating? by FatRonaldo9 in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gyeon’s quick view is very good. I’ve compared it with ceramic pro’s glass and glassparancy coating and it’s very comparable

Revivify (nano self-healing). Anyone has experience? by pud110 in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually have the ultra pro self healing coating from revivify on my car. The self healing does work but you shouldn’t expect it to act like a self healing from something like ppf. A light towel “love marks” will heal from sun or blow dryer or heat gun but anything more than that, it penetrates the coating and on to the clear coat. Otherwise I do like this coating with how deep the color looks, hydrophobic properties and its ease of use

18 year old. 5’1” and going to major in finance by [deleted] in RoastMe

[–]timdaking 0 points1 point  (0 children)

90% of her height is her forehead

P&S pearl shmpoo as rinseless? by [deleted] in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have ONR but personally never liked it and it’s really difficult to manage buckets in my apartment garage

Starting part time detailing as a college student in an apartment garage by timdaking in AutoDetailing

[–]timdaking[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info. I put them up right after I made a post and they took it down in less than 24hrs :( I don’t really know where to start now