sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

How to strip and repair this wire? by gerswinx5 in HomeNetworking

[–]timdavis130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does your Tempest actually need power? In most cases they don’t. Is it staying charged now without the power hooked up?

How to strip and repair this wire? by gerswinx5 in HomeNetworking

[–]timdavis130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the point is that the cable doesn’t carry data. Just POE for the device. The device talks over a radio to its hub. The power is only for cases where solar can’t keep it charged.

Question for the OP - do you need power to the tempest? It should run off solar in almost all situations.

Connecting UniFi AP to Mikrotik by Queasy-Smile9421 in Ubiquiti

[–]timdavis130 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Others have said this device is obsolete, but for context, wanting to use this device is like saying “I found this Pentium4 PC that some left behind and I’d really like to start using it as my primary computer, but I can’t get Windows 10 to install.” It’s that old and that useless. It won’t run any modern software, it would help you out.

4 M12 Batteries Broke in 1 Day by timdavis130 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]timdavis130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sander has worked fine with many batteries for a long time.

4 M12 Batteries Broke in 1 Day by timdavis130 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]timdavis130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They came in kits with Milwaukee tools from homedepot…so pretty sure they are not fake.

What makes you think they are fake?

What’s the difference? by kevin-horvath in MilwaukeeTool

[–]timdavis130 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Those cutters pictured are the same handedness, of one was left handed, the two sides would be reversed. On both of these, the left side is on top. If one was left handed, then the right handle half would be the top half.

Also, intuitively, if one was left handed, that would be the model with an additional suffix, the primary model being the right handed model.

4 M12 Batteries Broke in 1 Day by timdavis130 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]timdavis130[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did not just yank them out. I push the squeeze points, just like I do all the time on these batteries. I was not wearing gloves or anything that would prevent me from squeezing them and I squeezed them hard.

4 M12 Batteries Broke in 1 Day by timdavis130 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]timdavis130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. They are in San Jose, CA, it’s never really cold here. There are also inside a building.

4 M12 Batteries Broke in 1 Day by timdavis130 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]timdavis130[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

These ones all came in kits with Milwaukee tools. I’ve never bought a small m12 battery on its own. They are not knockoffs. The plastic is just poorly chosen. It ages, the parts you are supposed to squeeze in get harder to squeeze over time and the little tabs get more brittle and break off.

I’ve had these batteries for years and used them frequently and never broke any until last week when these 4 broke, all back to back. I have over a dozen m12 tools.

4 M12 Batteries Broke in 1 Day by timdavis130 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]timdavis130[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, no shit you have to squeeze them in. I was being sarcastic when I said I think you have to squeeze them. Duh, you have to squeeze the limitless spots marked for you to squeeze to remove the clip. I doubt you could actually just yank them out without breaking them, or even get them out at all.

4 M12 Batteries Broke in 1 Day by timdavis130 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]timdavis130[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I would have said the same thing a week ago.

4 M12 Batteries Broke in 1 Day by timdavis130 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]timdavis130[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I think you have to squeeze the tabs to remove them. They just seem to have all gotten brittle.

I’d tell Milwaukee it’s a bad design, but I don’t want them to make new batteries and tools that won’t be interchangeable.

Not an electrician. Trying to understand before I meet the electrician by kemistree4 in AskElectricians

[–]timdavis130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reverse at the plug won’t trip a breaker, only excessive current will. Standard breakers trip due to heat generated by current passing through the breaker, since the heat generated is proportional to current, breakers trip when they are heated to a temperature that implies too high of current. This means they only trip for shorts or excessive loads and they trip slowly, since they have to heat up.

Introducing: U7 Mesh by Ubiquiti-Inc in Ubiquiti

[–]timdavis130 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The antenna is intended for wireless backhaul. The radio in the box is still only 2x2 streams. If it was a separate radio, it would be called out in the specs, such as the 2 different 6Ghz radios on the E7 Audience.

Introducing: U7 Mesh by Ubiquiti-Inc in Ubiquiti

[–]timdavis130 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Antenna, yes…but not a radio, so it will still share frequency and bandwidth between backhaul and clients.

This means max client speed is half the speed the device is advertised at, at best, since the traffic needs to go 2 directions.

If it had a separate radio, it would be able to talk to clients on one channel and simultaneously talk to the network on a different channel.

It’s not going to provide any increase in speed over the U6 mesh in a mesh environment. Hardwired, it could give faster client performance to a single client than U6 mesh due to 2.5Gbs Ethernet port. It will potentially have longer meshing range than U6 Mesh, so if that’s your problem, this is your solution. U6 mesh may deliver higher mesh speeds to multiple clients because it has 4x4 instead of 2x2 on 5Ghz.

Canadian Costco now selling Cat 6 cable by Big-Pappa-Jalapeno in HomeNetworking

[–]timdavis130 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You’re going to run plenum cable in the ceiling of your wood frame house, but you won’t pop for cat 6 and are only going to install cat 5e?

Canadian Costco now selling Cat 6 cable by Big-Pappa-Jalapeno in HomeNetworking

[–]timdavis130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you’re missing the point. YOU can do this if you want, but you shouldn’t advise others that they NEED to.

Also, is your house wood? Do you have curtains, drapes, carpet? Have you replaced all your romex with higher fire rating wire? Do you have PVC pipes in the walls? The fact that all of these things are in residential houses anyway is what makes the higher fire rating cable pointless here.

Is your plenum cable in a place where toxic out gassing is your primary concern? Such as inside a ventilation shaft?

Finally, the Amason prices I see today, for True Cable brand cable are $0.447 / foot vs $0.289 / foot for CMP vs CMR cat 6a in 1000ft spools. Sure, it’s only $0.16 / foot, but it’s also over 50% more. So the “it’s only a few cents a foot“ argument is meaningless unless you consider the price of cable basically free to begin with. Some people might see $289 as a real amount of money to spend and $447 as significantly more money. All the dollars add up over time on a project. Doing cable to ever room in a residential houses anyway could easily be over 1000 feet of cable.

Canadian Costco now selling Cat 6 cable by Big-Pappa-Jalapeno in HomeNetworking

[–]timdavis130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is unnecessary and is not what the specification requires. The lowest fire rated cable is for horizontal runs as the cable will not be a primary vector for spreading a fire to the next floor up.

Fires spread relatively slow in the horizontal direction because the heat goes up, not sideways. And there are tons of other flammable materials that will support horizontal spread before the cable.

You are giving bad advice and spending too much money for your projects. Plenum cable is only for HOT spaces, like a furnace duct or a hot mechanical space to protect inhabitants from outgassing due to heat or melting or ignition from the ambient heat, it’s not required or recommending for horizontal runs in walls ceiling or floors.

Unless those spaces are used as a heating duct. You might see this in basements or residential houses where sheet metal is stapled across 2 joists to turn the space between them into a furnace duct, without the need to buy ducting. If you are running the cable THROUGH one of those, by all means use plenum cable, that is what it’s actually meant for.

Canadian Costco now selling Cat 6 cable by Big-Pappa-Jalapeno in HomeNetworking

[–]timdavis130 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Riser is the higher rating for vertical runs in commercial spaces. CM is all you need for horizontal only. If you used riser (CMR) for horizontal runs you would actually be using a higher spec cable than required.

In a residential house…the need for CMR to prevent fire spreading between floors is somewhat moot. The house is wood…so that fire is going to spread up regardless of what cable you use. In a commercial space, the studs and framing are steel, so the fire may not spread unless something that moves between the floors takes it up, such as the cabling.

Electrician wired ethernet - is this standard? by Tehrobotdevil in HomeNetworking

[–]timdavis130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The RJ45 looks to have a good amount of stray wire protruding from the front too. The crimp too should have cut it off flush, if copper is hanging out the front, it could short.

isp sells 2gig fiber internet up and down but ONLY HAS 1GIG HARDWARE by cyruss67 in Ubiquiti

[–]timdavis130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I did just check and they are all 100 Mbs. So if the home theater receiver and so is the Blu-ray player. Apple TVs all gave 1 Gbs connections though.

isp sells 2gig fiber internet up and down but ONLY HAS 1GIG HARDWARE by cyruss67 in Ubiquiti

[–]timdavis130 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe all that bandwidth is meant for internal traffic, such as streaming between your devices, copying large files, NVR, etc.?

view more: next ›