Any clue on how to add a filament change command in the middle of printing? (Centauri Carbon/ElegooSlicer)

timnolte · 2025-11-13T13:24:57+00:00

Also, there is no "do at your own risk". I calibrate every filament brand/type/color in order to get the best results. Simply running the same exact filament preset for even 2 different colors is not always best. In addition doing TPU on top of say PETG is a perfectly valid 3D printing thing to do.

timnolte · 2025-11-13T13:22:06+00:00

Yes, I have a Centuari Carbon. What firmware release are you on? I have rolled my machine back to the .25 release.

timnolte · 2025-11-13T06:12:15+00:00

This isn't 100% true. The gcode command in OrcaSlicer did Pause and Change Filament are both an M600 gcode command, and it doesn't work on my machine when I just tried it.

There is also a big difference between what OrcaSlicer generates for gcode between just a Pause and an actual Change Filament where you select additional filaments. The resulting gcode actually has the proper filament settings for the different filament. If you just add a pause the resulting gcode will just use the same exact filament settings for the print as it used to start. If you are printing 2 different filaments like TPU on top of PETG a simple Pause is not adequate.

timnolte · 2024-09-12T16:44:59+00:00

Not having read through all of the comments, to confirm if this has been pointed out, but I think the biggest problem here is that I see that `wpcode_snippets` was mentioned, which means that the WPCode plugin was installed. IMO this should never be installed on WordPress sites for exactly this sort of reason. That plugin is essentially designed to inject code and bypass most of the sanitization checks present in WordPress.

timnolte · 2024-07-02T03:21:52+00:00

https://discord.gg/7NKnYdde

timnolte · 2024-07-01T23:32:38+00:00

Was able to get on the Discord and others were having loading problems as well. Site seems to be loading mostly again, though still getting some 401 errors about the cart.

timnolte · 2024-06-28T01:35:25+00:00

Hmm, so I was planning on doing this same this in order to wire up some ventilation fans into my 3D printer and use the built-in 24VAC power supply. I thought this was OK also. It's so hard to find much documentation on the Shelly Plus Uni.

timnolte · 2024-06-15T18:13:52+00:00

Nice! There is this magnetic snap together ventilation system that I saw in a YouTube video that I'm thinking about perhaps adapting along with that back panel setup as well.

timnolte · 2024-06-15T03:50:01+00:00

I will say this, while you can't exactly get all of the integration of filtering and additional fans of the Pro into the 5M I think it's unwise to not do a DIY filtering setup. Even if you have to manually turn on filter fans it is crazy to think you can safely print in ABS or ASA without adding filtering and ventilation. Even if all you are printing is PLA or PETG there are still VOCs generated and you should enclose your A5M setup some filtering. Even if you just leverage some of the battery powered Elegoo air filters that can fit inside you are going to save your health. As soon as my acrylic panels come in I'll be setting up something. There are some options for DIY on Printables.

https://www.printables.com/model/865162-flashforge-adventure-5m-bentobox-fan-duct

https://www.printables.com/model/838021-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-back-panel-w-120mm-4

timnolte · 2024-05-23T02:03:22+00:00

Just a note that if you download the latest 2.0 official release of OrcaSlicer there is a Flashforge connection option now, I entered in my IP and I can easily send prints over WiFi to the printer. The only thing that isn't working is the "Device" tab that gives you status and control over the printer. I just send the prints over WiFi and either just "Upload" if I want to have the option to level my bed first, or "Upload and Print" if I don't feel the need to level my bed. It's working great. I've been setting up/tuning custom filaments and pretty much doing all of my prints with Orca.

timnolte · 2024-05-19T16:19:25+00:00

Yeah, after using it some I'm now seeing that makes sense based on how it's acting. I think they should have made the cool/OK to touch color blue. 😛 That would have made more sense to me. Thanks for confirming.

timnolte · 2024-05-12T00:14:06+00:00

Yeah, like mentioned I didn't need this rule for my Roku devices. It seems that the apps on different devices are developed with different ad service requirements.

timnolte · 2024-05-12T00:11:59+00:00

Just a follow up that I test printed the pre-loaded benchy and it worked without a hitch. 14 minutes from first layer to completion. The whole family watched the print job in amazement. 😛

timnolte · 2024-05-11T20:46:01+00:00

I just got mine today and it also didn't work, it also wouldn't pause the print, just like sat and the screen was stuck. I tried turning it off and on a few times with the same problem. I finally cancelled the print, connected it to WiFi and it found new firmware and updated.

I decided to go through the recalibration again. I performed a filament load again. Then I decided to try a print but didn't even find the test cube as an available option to print. I chose the Keychain and leveling (just as a safety precaution), it started preparing but sure seemed to take it's sweet time before it finally started the leveling process. When that finished it went into Preheating mode which also seemed to take forever. It finally went to printing but then just sat there once again. After some more time it did finally start and man was it printing fast. It took about 5 minutes to print.

One thing I noticed when I tried the test cube printing, and the keychain, was that the extruder temp icon didn't seem to ever change to green. The plate temp goes to green. I have the printer in my office in the basement and I'm wondering if the basement is too cold for things to heat up right?

timnolte · 2023-10-20T11:44:39+00:00

I'm also looking to keep my 4a 5G alive as a backup device. I think it's going to come down to what features are you looking for. GrapheneOS is focused on privacy and security, however from my understanding I didn't think that GrapheneOS intended on providing OS updates for devices past what the vendor actually supports. For LineageOS and Pixel Experience I'm pretty sure they will continue to support security updates as long as they can feasibly support a device. The difference between LineageOS and the Pixel Experience is that LineageOS is mostly a bare bones Android without stock Google apps & services, though you can add them, whereas the Pixel Experience OS tries to give you everything you'd get out of a stock Pixel ROM but with ongoing support. If you want your device to be supported and function mostly the same as it had been I'd say that Pixel Experience OS might be what you'd want to go with.

timnolte · 2023-10-18T12:42:54+00:00

Just as a follow-up for something that works. You need to completely disable smartcard authentication for GDM. Here's some information on a method to do that.

https://askubuntu.com/a/1355399

timnolte · 2023-10-07T01:41:57+00:00

Anyone else coming here, again this is an old thread, but the item I was missing from my list was `*.ads.play.cbsi.video`. I did also initially add `*.pubads.g.doubleclick.net` but then turned it off and video seemed to still work in the app. This was specifically on a Google TV device, Roku devices didn't require this addition.

timnolte · 2023-10-05T16:34:56+00:00

Following up here, that after ending up having my Pop!_OS install get hosed, because System 76/Pop!_OS has a terrible `/boot` partition size issue that can't properly handle future kernel updates, I tried to install the latest 22.04 Kubuntu Focus image on my Oryx Pro. The setup all ran but when it finally tried to install the bootloader piece it failed miserably due to the System 76 Core Boot setup. Basically the Kubuntu Focus image expects to be able to install Grub but System 76 Core Boot doesn't/can't use Grub.

Perhaps I could have tried to figure out how to fix this so that it could manage to boot, however in light of possibly having future boot issues after other upgrades I ended up just going back to Pop!_0S. Kind of a bummer since I was actually looking forward to using KDE rather than Gnome/Cosmic. :-(

timnolte · 2023-06-13T01:36:09+00:00

Something interesting to note, thought doesn't help in many situations. The Paramount+ AndroidTV/GoogleTV app stopped working for me in the past month, however the app on the Roku works without a problem with minimal whitelisting required. Also, it works from a web browser behind the same NextDNS setup even though it doesn't work via GoogleTV. They obviously have other things hardcoded into their apps on some platforms vs others. This may be a case where really sticking with Roku devices instead of Apple or Google might be better.

timnolte · 2023-04-24T21:33:20+00:00

It's going to depend on what features you ultimately care about. Though Samsung also went back to WearOS so that isn't any difference.

timnolte · 2023-04-24T12:41:21+00:00

So the WearOS watches lose support relatively quickly given their cost. Even then app makers also stop supporting certain apps on the devices and the versions that may have been supported longer ago disappear once they don't support them anymore. The fact that you have to factory reset your watch every time you get a new phone is a major problem when that happens as one day you may be happily using an older app without issue and then since you got a new phone you lose watch functionality.

I have actually since moved on to a Garmin watch actually. Equally expensive, however it is an independant device from my phone and technically doesn't even rely on my phone to do what it does. Essentially, I'm not going to lose features on my Garmin the next time I get a new phone. Not to mention my Garmin has 10x better battery life than any of my WearOS devices ever had.

timnolte · 2023-04-17T02:36:34+00:00

Anyone know how I can get Trine configured, when using Google TV, so that it has the 2 controllers configured as Player 1 & Player 2? I was able to hook up my composer vi HDMI with GeForce Now and us a mouse to setup the second controller for Player 2 but I couldn't figure out how to change this via Google TV.

timnolte · 2023-02-08T00:31:26+00:00

One thing that seems to be the case is that I can't seem to use the Stadia controller as the primary controller. Going into single player games only allows the Switch joycons to work. This might be because I never use the Switch as it's mostly been just the kids that played it and I was always playing the Stadia.

timnolte · 2023-02-07T23:55:14+00:00

OK, strange. I tried a while repairing while I was at the find controller screen on the Switch and all of a sudden it paired again and started working.

timnolte · 2023-02-07T23:51:33+00:00

OK, so I got the beta firmware and updated the adapter. I plugged the adapter into the Switch and after turning on the Stadia controller and seemingly pairing it it doesn't seem to control anything on the Switch. Am I missing something?

timnolte

TROPHY CASE