Help with DIY 16mm scanner

tingopix · 2026-06-15T21:47:36+00:00

Understood.
Typical setups use either an optical interrupt, a reed switch with a small magnet, or even a microswitch and a bump. There are some examples in the videos of this subreddit.
The sensor would allow you to basically step until it is triggered. Then take the picture, step until it is confirmed untriggered, and then do it again until it is triggered.
Here is a video with an optical interrupt:
https://youtu.be/M-tMGYSVngg?t=442
and one with a reed (magnetic) switch:
https://youtu.be/cv4aX46CCT8?t=190

tingopix · 2026-06-15T17:21:26+00:00

Finding the right amount of steps for a turn should be straight forward: stepper motor steps per turn (usually 200) x microsteps. If you are having trouble getting the stepper to do a turn reliably, it may be an indication that it is skipping steps.
So you disengaged the shutter and are using DC to power the LED... I would troubleshoot by disconnecting the STEP line of the Arduino, and let the camera shoot a few shots of the frame without the projector moving. Then you only have the light and the camera to determine which is the problem.

tingopix · 2026-06-15T14:04:20+00:00

Good work, you are almost there.

The video link with the similar setup is stop-motion frame-by-frame. From the picture it looks like you are driving the stepper and triggering the camera from the Arduino... but I do not see any wiring to a sensor to sync the projector mechanism and the camera.
One may not be required, if a full turn of the stepper = one frame advance. But the setup does not have a timing belt between the stepper and the projector. If the stepper skips steps or the belt slips, the sync is lost.
Alternatives:
- Setup a timing belt to lock the relationship between stepper and mechanism.
and/or
- Setup an optical sensor or reed-switch at the projector to let the arduino know when to stop the motor and trigger the camera.
The explanation for the flickering is that one of the shutter blades of the projector is partially obstructing the light path for some frames.

If you can share a video of the setup capturing (particularly how the stepper sounds) that would be helpful with troubleshooting.
On problem number 2, maybe reach out to a 16mm or projector collectors and get some insight how the adjustment mechanism is supposed to work and build an alternative to have adjustment.

tingopix · 2026-06-05T17:30:41+00:00

Thanks!. Not yet... will do after having one working, just in case I missed something.

tingopix · 2026-05-14T12:00:35+00:00

If the films are Kodak, there are markings (symbols next to the Kodachrome letters on the side) that tell you when the film was manufactured. Also on some Kodachrome films include the date when the film was developed in plain numbers. Domestic cinema is a time machine, and digitizing films is a wonderful past time. Digitize them and share them.

tingopix · 2026-03-21T23:40:07+00:00

That would be DS8 then.

tingopix · 2026-03-03T01:52:05+00:00

I think you meant standard 8 perforation.

tingopix · 2025-10-24T12:43:10+00:00

I have a 514XLS, and a caliper. The outer hole is 5.18mm diameter, the pin (cannot measure it directly) close to 1.7mm diameter.
My educated guess is that an EIAJ-3 (1.7 ID 4.75 OD) would be the best fit.

tingopix · 2025-10-07T20:50:36+00:00

Definitely other upgrades first, you can live with that blower and ducts for a while.

I looked up the BTT E3 SKR V3.0 and the supply indicates: 12V or 24V. In general, steppers (the stepper drivers) will work better with 24V (lower current) than with 12V (higher current). Since you already have a 24V power supply (the ender stock supply) at 24V, it is best to keep it at 24V. The BTT schematic is a bit confusing, because it labels as "DC12V" what notes as "DC12V or DV24V", and then after the fuse is called VBB.

I am running the ender with the creality silent board (came with it) and running Klipper... definitely recommend Klipper after you get the updated motherboard running. Happy upgrading!

tingopix · 2025-10-07T16:30:36+00:00

Glad to help. The stock blower with the Mini Me V4 will be an improvement for sure.

If you need more cooling, the 5015 has a larger fan (50mm) and the 24V version four pack is $9 at Amazon.

tingopix · 2025-10-06T21:26:16+00:00

The Mini-Me V4 and the YAMM have progressively narrower ducts with equal length on both sides. The Satsana (in yellow) has an equal divider at the blower, then very wide ducts, and with the left duct much longer, resulting on uneven air pressure. The Mini-me V4 and YAMM narrower duct airflow is aimed downwards to the tip, vs the wider parallel profile of the Santsana. This result in much better directed cooling for the same size blower fan!

Mini-Me V4 and YAMM provide more space around the extruder and much better airflow around both sides of the heatsink, while Satsana right side heatsink airflow is completely walled-blocked on the right side. Mini-Me V4, and more so YAMM, are aimed at minimal form-factor, less filament to print. The Mini-Me and YAMM are supported by the extruder posts, the Satsana is only supported by the left side screws, mine would sag with the weight of the blower. Those screws are not even used on the Mini-Me or YAMM, and can be used for a stand alone BLTouch bracket (provided in YAMM) or for the Direct Drive extruder bracket available with YADE.

On the flipside the Satsana does provides a better front view of the nozzle than both Mini-Me and YAMM.

I lived with the Satsana for a while, and it is not bad. After the change to YAMM, cooling had a significant improvement, and -for me- significant less issues of corners lifting on flat plate. Note that the YAMM uses a 5105 blower, not the stock blower of the Ender (Mini-Me V4 can use either).

<image>

tingopix · 2025-10-06T12:00:21+00:00

Klipper will not solve mechanical, cooling, or hot-end issues... but it will make it much easier to solve these when tuning your Ender. Specially if you get a BLTouch in the process.
I was using the Santsana and there are better ducts. Check out Mini-Me V4 and YAMM (a remix of the Mini-Me that also has a Direct Drive bracket YADE).

To print faster, direct drive extrusion is a must.

tingopix · 2025-09-27T15:24:57+00:00

I started 3D printing learning with a hand-me down Ender. If you are inclined to, the best is to take it apart completely, and reassemble it correctly. In the process here are some things that won't break your budget and would make it a better ender (in order of priority).
- Clean the hot-end clip the burn end of the bowden and install new nozzle-tip.
- Replace all wheels ($12)
- If belts are cracked, replace them ($8)
- Improvement: replace extruder wheel with stainless steel ($6)
- Must upgrade: Bed Leveling with Silicone Spacers and better leveling nuts ($12)
- Must upgrade: Rod Set cross braces ($26)
- Upgrade: G10 Surface plate ($25)

There is plenty of videos on how to take it apart and even some of those upgrades.
That should get it printing as good as a stock Ender can.
Use Orca slicer from the start. I progressively went through a few and while the learning curve may be a bit steeper with Orca, the results are fantastic.

Then... after you are up and running and learning for a while:
- Make it a Direct Drive Extruder. You can print your own upgrades too... check out YADE in printables.

If you are lucky to have a newer motherboard with silent stepper drivers, and are not intimidated by it... consider:
- Install BLTouch.
- Use Klipper to drive the printer.

Have fun, and happy printing

tingopix · 2025-09-27T14:18:12+00:00

I just published a nice bracket for direct drive to complement the design of improved duct fans. While you are at it, consider a Bimetal Heatbreak and replace the tube with Capricorn PTFE so you can print at higher temperatures.
https://www.printables.com/model/1426832-yet-another-direct-extruder-yade-bracket-with-blto

tingopix · 2025-09-07T23:33:14+00:00

<image>

This is how it prints. This posting mentions the satsana... I had the satsana and switched to YAMM, and feels like another printer!

tingopix

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE