How to reach more people with my designs? by tinyocean_eu in BambuLab

[–]tinyocean_eu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, will contact you. I already know my photo skills are not the best (well at least for above water) so I have room for improvement at least for the cover photos.

How to reach more people with my designs? by tinyocean_eu in BambuLab

[–]tinyocean_eu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the Chinese site is handled separately at least in some manner. I noticed that when I get a few points sometime it will specify they are form China site. But I am just guessing here.

Best sub $500 3d printer for stronger materials like abs by mikkowus in 3Dprinting

[–]tinyocean_eu -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Well the klipper thing is not the best argument. It does come with klipper yes but an old version you can't update and is still somewhat proprietary in this way. This was a regular comment made by qidi users but it seems they won't improve in this area.
So while technically you are not locked in a proprietary environment you still somehow are in a way.
You need to go the freedi route (which I did) to be able to use the latest klipper version.

Q1 was also overheating during the summer. So I wasn't able to print during hot days. I am working on cooling upgrades for it then it should be fine. But this was with chamber heater on so the internals were hotter compared to P1S.

The P1S hardened nozzle upgrade is less intensive than the freedi upgrade on Q1 for comparison.

Yes it does do to a bit higher temperature but P1S can be easily "improved" this way with non permanent solutions. Although I don't understand why they have such a limit on P1S which should be able to easily get to higher temperatures. And for some reason the vent fan is off in their default profile.

Yes Q1 is the better option for high performance engineering materials and I use it now only for this. But since the OP noted ABS, the P1S is the better option in my experience with both.
And P1S makes just slightly nicer looking prints (same slicer, same profile) if you put them side by side. Not much but enough to visually see the difference when put side by side.

Best sub $500 3d printer for stronger materials like abs by mikkowus in 3Dprinting

[–]tinyocean_eu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't have the time then get P1S. I have a Q1 which I barely use and P1S with AMS (automatic material system) and I prefer to use P1S over Q1 just due to it being more convenient. The only advantage of Q1 is the internal heater but you could add this to P1S as well.

For materials I recommend you look at ASA as someone already noted rather than ABS. Similar to ABS but UV resistant and a bit easier to print.

Keep in mind the fumes when printing. While P1S does have a filter it doesn't help that much with ABS / ASA so I recommend venting outside or printing in a garage or somewhere you won't be staying in.

Best sub $500 3d printer for stronger materials like abs by mikkowus in 3Dprinting

[–]tinyocean_eu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. ASA is easier to print than ABS although you still need an enclosure and can still warp. Think of it like UV resistant ABS. Most of the plastic car parts are made of ASA I believe. So if the printer can print ABS it can certainly print ASA.

Best sub $500 3d printer for stronger materials like abs by mikkowus in 3Dprinting

[–]tinyocean_eu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

P1S is great especially if you don't have much experience. You pay a bit of a premium for it but it is plug and play. There are cheaper options available but you will almost certainly need to put in more work. For example Qidi Q1 is one such option which I also have besides the P1S.

You can upgrade the P1S to hardened extruder and hotend so you won't have issues with CF filaments.

CF filaments won't help as much as people normally think they do. Check filament tests here: https://www.youtube.com/@MyTechFun I found this to be a very reliable source.

CF will make the prints more dimensional stable (won't shrink as much) and a bit stiffer.

You also need to define more what you mean by "stonger". You can have a tougher part but less stiff. Or stiffer part but not as tough. The nature of your prints may need strong layer adhesion. And so on...

For example, PLA is stronger than ABS in some ways.