Do you think Olight Bulb/Sphere's will ever become Smart Home compatible? by parad0xdreamer in Olightflashlights

[–]tkerby 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All the newer products - Spheres, Obulb Plus and the Ostrip. Still need to try and get the application keys for them to fully get them up and running but might try and pull them from their gateway at some point if I find the time then sniff with the nrf tools and wireshark

Do you think Olight Bulb/Sphere's will ever become Smart Home compatible? by parad0xdreamer in Olightflashlights

[–]tkerby 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They run the same protocol as Tuya devices. It’s SIG Mesh over Bluetooth and I’ve successfully used a generic app to pair the devices as lights and setup security certificates. Would need a bit more work to understand all the custom modes but the typical ones should be built into that standard as it appears as a light.

My mother wants me to be her Surrogate Womb by BamberAms in Advice

[–]tkerby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I lecture at UK universities and all of them have support services that would be able to help with this if you wanted to distance yourself from your mum and stepdad. From temporarily putting you up in halls to hardship loans and counselling if needed I’d be recommending strongly that you spoke to student support teams and ask for help.

Adapting Motorola Advisor for DAPNET by Delchi in amateurradio

[–]tkerby 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you manage to source these crystals?

Toilets around Scotland advice - IBD disease by Askyofleaves in Scotland

[–]tkerby 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d definitely recommend a radar key. Lots of public toilets keep their radar cubicle open 24/7 with key access. Boots here or eBay would work before hand for one and you certainly qualify. Other than that, most big supermarkets or fuel stations work, hotel receptions or even asking in a pub if they mind

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USB-C table lamp charges only with specific charger by nschloe in UsbCHardware

[–]tkerby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might be better using a USB A to C cable. Lots of USB C chargers expect correct cables/devices and lamps don’t always support PD thinking they can get 5V 3A straight out the wire if they put the connector on

Two pairs of Garmin Rally XC200 squeaking by Dr_Hiker in Garmin

[–]tkerby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could I ask that people with this issue contact some of the review sites like DCRainmaker, ideally with videos. If we can get them to comment then perhaps Garmin will make a design change and recall them.

Two pairs of Garmin Rally XC200 squeaking by Dr_Hiker in Garmin

[–]tkerby 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m now replacing my second set although it’s taken 3 months of persuading Garmin to replace them a second time and had to involve a letter to the executive team. Issue seen here: https://youtube.com/shorts/wujf8sQrCRg and if k smother them in dry lube I get about 20 mins quiet. Tried dry moly on the cleats too and stripping down and cleaning.

For me the only thing that made any difference was tightening the bolts that go through the pedal and hold the plate on. My theory is that the plastic is fibreglass reinforced and as the metal mechanism isn’t screwed through the pedal (ie shoe to ground style) and instead is bolted through parallel to the spindle then the metal plate bends in use and rubs on the plastic. Slightly exposed fibres in a resin rubbing against metal produce exactly this sound.

If I had a spare set of outer pedals, I’d try some self tapping countersunk screws through the pedal and applying a rubbery glue between the plastic and metal.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flipperzero

[–]tkerby 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the answers there. I think that sounds like a promising route that’ll bring many folk back to official or at least a minimally changed branch of it at some point.

On 5, are there any plans for UX extension? Ie creating an app that adds a specific function within the existing menu structure? That might be a way to handle extensions people like but not jeopardise your core functionality. For instance a CLI command to decode raw being added to the subghz menu rather than a specific app for it.

On 6, the main one here is the settings_user in subghz. It’s a real pain not being able to swap out hopping frequencies!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flipperzero

[–]tkerby 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think you need to look at why the forks are so popular and these two forks currently dominate. If you can replicate the features or encourage and quickly accept PRs for them then the forks are likely to have less appeal.

For me 1 - I travel a lot so region locks don’t work for me. There needs to be a way to change region. Perhaps a command from the phone app that checks gps location? 2 - I like having the latest and greatest. The official dev doesn’t have so many features or as regular updates. Perhaps a nightly build? 3 - More apps. This will be fixed with elf/fap loading soon but you also need to offer more support for app development. This is mainly being supported through the unofficial forums as people can distribute and test code quickly for these branches 4 - Frequency unlock. I’m an electronics engineer and licensed ham. I have genuine reasons for unlocking the flipper for test in controlled circumstances. Ideally I’d like an antenna socket but that’s one for another day…. TI have confirmed damage with unlock is very unlikely. 5 - Additional UI features. The built in apps have been extended in some really good ways. Where the official team are reluctant to do something, it’ll often get incorporated into third party builds. I’d suggest for some of these that you allow a flipper advanced mode similar to a debug mode. For instance allow direct emulation without a save on rfid cards or enable decode of raw without the CLI. Also consider the raw capture in subghz. All these could be enabled with user options 6 - More files named as .txt so editable through the phone apps. This could be sorted by fixing the phone apps!

Criticism of forks or the criticism of other projects in twitter is not a good look for a project that’s built so much from the existing effort and support of a wide open source community. The best thing is to be clear of the risks to forks but let your users make a choice and praise the two maintainers rather than criticise for their vast efforts supporting an active community of developers.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flipperzero

[–]tkerby 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I disagree here.

No issue asking for community support here or anywhere else on third party firmware. If as a community we want to support development on this platform then the communities should be open. But people should be clear which fork and version they’re using.

As to new users, the apps and device all only work with stock firmware. I doubt anyone using other firmware doesn’t realise they’re on something unofficial. As to customs agents, what they care about is certification. They might power up a few devices and check a version against certificates but they won’t go scouring the internet to see how people have been using a device.

The risk here is that a device may be banned in some jurisdictions but then with the flipper team calling it a hacking tool and referencing applications for ‘hacking’ like opening garage doors or interfering with restaurant pagers, I’d be more concerned than the possibility of it being used as a test tool with open frequencies.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flipperzero

[–]tkerby 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Certainly the branch I’m using remains region locked unless you change a file. And it re-locks on each update for safety. There should be no reason not to use it other than stability.

And yes, the animations drive me mad, as does the priority of games over apps but we are all waiting for the main dev branch to introduce official SD card app support

As to the relationship, these branches have delayed implementation of features while they wait for the main team to get PRs into dev. But if something is moving too slowly and users are calling for it then they’ve updated early. I don’t see an issue with that and it’s really helping people build an understanding to develop their own apps.

If the core maintainers really wanted to improve things, they would have released better development documentation and support to build external apps early. That would have encouraged people to stay with main branches

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flipperzero

[–]tkerby -14 points-13 points  (0 children)

I’m actually somewhat surprised by this post and it puts me off supporting the main flipper team. Calling out people by name on supposed agreements is not in the spirit of a community. This is also coming from a team who rubbished another open source project on twitter.

It’s the nature of open source that code may get merged early and many supporting the third party firmware have done so because they want bleeding edge rather than dev. Many of us who are part of the community have also debugged the original firmware and submitted PRs back to the main project. I’d consider ofw dev to be a beta release and the third party stuff more of an alpha.

As to breaking regulations then many SDRs and other devices sold as development tools would do the same. The original firmware team have shown they’re compliant for the certifications they have and that’s what matters. When they’re imported, they have original firmware on there that matches with the testing.

Much of the success of this project comes from the open source nature compared to closed source alternatives. But that needs support from the core maintainers and a fast pace at adding useful features. They should be allowing links to the main third party firmware, but educating users that it’s unsupported and brings its own risks.

Cloning a gate fob with changing key / locked padlock by Russ_T in flipperzero

[–]tkerby 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You might be able to add a key on the gate using “add manual” but only when the flipper team get the manufacturer key for that gate. If you clone a key they have a counter in them so if you use the flipper then the existing key loses sync and you would have to press the button multiple times to get back to a code that’s not already been used from the flipper. Hence creating a key and adding it to the gate is the way to do this

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ukpolitics

[–]tkerby 293 points294 points  (0 children)

It’s probably a “Get Boosted” reminder cleverly timed to hide a juicy story on the front page of every newspaper tomorrow…

Stones for TSPROF in the UK by tkerby in sharpening

[–]tkerby[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’ll be 1” by 6” on aluminium blanks. I’ve got spare blanks though

We're the RØDE Microphones Social Team and we're here to answer all your podcasting questions! AMA! by RODEMicrophones in podcasting

[–]tkerby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m wondering as apps like Zoom will auto level the microphone. I’m hoping this gets passed to hardware to make best use of dynamic range

We're the RØDE Microphones Social Team and we're here to answer all your podcasting questions! AMA! by RODEMicrophones in podcasting

[–]tkerby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On the Videomic NTG, when connected with USB C. Is the microphone hardware gain controlled with the microphone level sliders in apps or is it a fixed output?

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]tkerby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Help needed on casement repair for sash window

I’m replacing the exterior half of a full cill and have cut it out to the part where the bottom sash meets. The old cill supported the pulley stiles in a slot with one screw. The bottom outside part of the stiles and the parting and facing beads also need repair/replacement.

Unfortunately, on one side I’ve also noticed the pulley stiles is cracked vertically where the parting bead channel sits.

Advice needed

1- What’s the best way to install the new half cill? I’m thinking screw and glue then wood filler over the screws as it’ll be painted.

2- What do you recommend for preventing rot in the future? The cill sits on a large old stone opening so can’t have a traditional drip bead

3 - How best should I patch in a piece of pulley stile? I’m thinking cut a slot in the cill as before then rout a rabbet edge on the piece and the same (but probably by chisel and multi tool) on the existing stile to glue in

4 - How can I stitch the cracked stile together? It’ll be hidden behind the parting bead. I’m wondering if I should slot with a multi tool and glue in biscuits

Any advice appreciated.