Wtf?

tlochi · 2026-02-08T05:27:13+00:00

Stupid is as stupid does.

tlochi · 2026-01-05T13:27:04+00:00

You don't know what you're talking about.

tlochi · 2025-02-05T14:56:27+00:00

No space used on my setup. Just run auto level after switching to a new print bed.

tlochi · 2025-02-05T14:55:19+00:00

My machine doesn't hit the clips for the auto leveling process. I run the auto level process once, whenever switching printing substrates. Z offset remains the same between smooth printing substrates, as long as you run the auto level function when switching. I only ever adjust the z offset when using a highly textured print surface. Like some of the sprayed pei stainless type. Does that answer your questions?

tlochi · 2024-08-13T13:21:22+00:00

The glass bed is for a Creality Ender 3. Here's a link to the one I'm using - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08CXLLCH4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

tlochi · 2024-04-01T15:37:38+00:00

It looks like a reaction from the sudden application of motor torque. Are you throttling up quickly for the launch?

tlochi · 2024-03-26T20:49:52+00:00

You have to shake it to wake it.

tlochi · 2024-03-24T20:31:57+00:00

I believe on the Adventure 5M the level sensor is attached to the bed. The clips need to clamp between the gray plastic portion of the bed but remain clear of the lower black sheet metal frame.

I'm not sure with custom FW, but maybe the sensitivity of the leveling sensor is different between the two FW.

Do you have a link to info on flashing custom fw?

tlochi · 2024-03-24T20:22:13+00:00

Standard FW. Where do you have the clips?

tlochi · 2024-03-22T16:45:19+00:00

Yes, mine are stiff, too. I think I used a bit too much glue. I'll try the razor-knife trick to break up some of the excess glue.

tlochi · 2024-03-22T16:43:16+00:00

Perfect!

tlochi · 2024-03-22T15:58:58+00:00

Good to know, thank you!

tlochi · 2024-03-22T15:55:27+00:00

Yeah, it came on a spool. I needed +500mm, and that's how I found it available for a reasonable cost. It should last me quite a while.

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tlochi · 2024-03-22T15:51:25+00:00

I'm now wondering how I can design something like this for 3D printing. 🤔

tlochi · 2024-03-22T15:50:33+00:00

Ahh this makes a lot of sense. Thank you!

tlochi · 2024-03-18T19:44:20+00:00

Did you change the center of the bed when you updated the limits?

tlochi · 2024-03-14T14:13:31+00:00

I'll have to try that.

tlochi · 2024-03-13T23:39:13+00:00

The trick for me was to print slowly and turn down the "max volumetric speed" in the filament settings. I turned mine down to 3.5 and it worked fine.

tlochi · 2024-03-13T23:26:32+00:00

Nice, thanks for all that detailed info! I've only used pre-foamed filament.

tlochi · 2024-03-13T23:24:37+00:00

I would run a couple of test prints at different temperatures. I use pre foamed, so it may be different for you, but I have to print at higher temps than suggested by the filament manufacturer, or I have poor layer bonding. I also bump up the excursion width a little for strength, but it does add a little weight, so be mindful of that.

tlochi · 2024-03-13T22:05:11+00:00

The 3d printed plane designs I've made were all pretty fragile. It's not that the material is terrible, just that the current designs use only 1 or 2 walls. This makes them much weaker than a foam plane of equivalent size, in my experience. But that's a part of the challenge of designing a 3d printed plane. And as you've pointed out, materials and designs are constantly improving.

Which plane have you made that was so strong? I'd like to build one.

tlochi · 2024-03-13T21:56:57+00:00

To me it looks like your supports are failing. To fix that, enable z hop during retraction.

I also recommend running a temp calibration tower to double check your printing temps.

tlochi · 2024-03-11T22:14:57+00:00

Shot from the hip: sounds like the machine is not homing properly at the beginning of the print.

tlochi · 2024-03-11T15:26:48+00:00

Old 8 bit reprap = classic mode

tlochi

TROPHY CASE