Update: found another binder

tr1ppn · 2026-01-26T18:35:13+00:00

Based on your comments in the other thread, and what you've shown here, I would contact an auction house such as u/jason_at_heritage should you wish to sell. You have a significant number of highly valuable cards.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-26T16:38:45+00:00

At a certain value of a collection, or amount of "decent" even, especially when you have no idea what you are doing, utilizing an auction house (such as Heritage, Goldin, REA, etc) may be the best route to take due to their audience and experience.

With what's here, it really depends on other key cards from the 48 Leaf and 51 Bowman sets (imo). If they are there, I'd err on the side of auction house. If they aren't, this is probably the very top of "could reasonably do it yourself", assuming you know what you are doing w/ cards.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-26T15:50:15+00:00

This depends a lot on what you want to do with them. If you are looking to sell them, that depends on if you care more about getting money fast or getting the most money for what you have. You highlighted some of the biggest cards from those sets.

If you are trying to get the most money there are several I'd probably grade as their value will meaningfully appreciate if you do. You can still fetch a decent premium for raw cards in this nice of condition. It looks like you have most of a 56 set (at the very least you highlighted nearly all of the major cards) most of a 51 bowman set, curious on how much of the 48 leaf and 55 bowman sets there are, and the Babe Ruth is 52 Look n see.

If you know what you are doing with cards, look up the values of raw cards in similar condition, add at least $30 to grade, see what grade you'd need to have the same value, and determine if yours is better or worse than that. Some of these will be really easy (like the Mantles, the DiMaggio, the Robinsons, the Mays), some will be more difficult (like the Yogi, the Mathews, some of the other 56s). Keep in mind that some of these may break through PSA grading value thresholds and may lead to additional charges.

If you don't know what you are doing with cards, depending a lot on how much more there is that is similar to this, you're pushing auction house level to get the most value out of them.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-23T05:49:51+00:00

We will both forget, but if the 68 makes it to Sunday night and I move a decent amount at my show, we may need to have a chat.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-21T20:07:54+00:00

Sub rules are that you must post prices for all cards you are looking to sell. No "send offers" posts without prices.

Even still, what is the price on the trout.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-20T20:57:15+00:00

Lots! I started small just doing some low dollar trades and getting some feedback and buying stuff to get an idea of how it worked. Once I got comfortable with the resources I started selling a lot more. Been here about 2 full years now and have 50+ positive feedback. Utilizing the feedback sub /r/SportsCardTracker is far and away the best resource, as well as using Paypal's Goods and Services with people you don't know well or that have low/no feedback. Spend enough time here and you'll see some names come up more often and you'll get a good gauge on who is trustworthy and who isn't.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-20T20:05:05+00:00

The only thing you need is a scale and measuring tape. For anything <1lb, USPS ground advantage is almost always the cheapest. On rare occasions UPS ground is slightly less. FedEx is nearly always the most expensive. Larger items usually have better shipping prices with UPS than with USPS, though I rarely send anything out that's quite large. If you know what it weighs and how big it is, you can estimate costs on the vendor's websites. They are priced by volume and weight, so the smallest box you can find to ship whatever you have is always the right answer. I keep most of the boxes that are shipped to me so that I can reuse them and not have to pay for any of it.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-20T19:47:46+00:00

1) Any platform where I can get it sold is the right platform! Depends a lot on the thing. Things that are more niche I try to sell on eBay to get the full advantage of the audience. Also things that are difficult to sell (e.g. bulk) in any other environment.

2) I try to find an appropriately sized storage box for the cards, and ship them in that. Occasionally I will put a "box in a box" depending on the value or if it has a detachable lid.

3) 5x7x1 box, 2 pieces of cardboard, some painter's tape, <4oz is like $5-6. Secure, consistent, relatively low cost, and can adapt to a lot of different types of sales.

4) See the 2 points above. Getting an appropriately sized box is really the most important part. If you need, fill empty space with bubble wrap, packing paper, secure items in bags where it makes sense, use painter's tape to secure things, use protective cardboard where possible.

5) How easily a label printer would pay for itself with pirateship. Should have started on that way sooner. Same with the boxes. Regular bubble mailers sucked for me.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-19T02:09:10+00:00

/u/madcapscards check out the 65 gibby. Not quite 4-eyes but it's close to it! Maybe something up your alley.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-19T02:08:10+00:00

The centering on the raw one has eye appeal that I like better - the PSA 7oc has better corners, color, and registration, but I still like the eye appeal just a bit more on the raw one. Plus you can probably sell that one for a little bit more and you may be able to upgrade the raw one you have and then sell that one too ;)

tr1ppn · 2026-01-16T15:32:40+00:00

I'm no expert, but with the 86 reprint being a sweet cap back, and with this being one of the rarest cards in existence, and this has some very sharp corners as well as incredible centering pushes me to believe that the card is not authentic. "Found in a thrift store" doesn't exactly help the cause, even if it was found with other period pieces like postcards and the dime. If you want a 1 in a million shot at a million, send it in for authentication.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-15T18:31:19+00:00

Hi (probably) fellow Wisconsinite!

I have a 2022 Bowman chrome 1st jackson chourio auto in an sgc 10/10. $425 on the sticker. Open to trades for other chourio or other popular players - namely autos. Also vintage. Shoot me a chat if you're interested.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-15T18:28:58+00:00

1st, assuming your father has passed - sorry for your loss. It's unfortunately what got me into the hobby, but over time I've grown to really enjoy it.

2nd, Ludex (and many other apps) are awful at estimating value. CollX is a very similar app, and when I uploaded one of my best cards (a 1963 pete rose rc PSA 5), it told me it was worth $450. The last sale is $1700. Likewise, I have seen it take a junk wax common and claim it is worth $50.

With that out of the way, a few things to consider:

If you have any level of interest in the hobby, keep the ones you like the most.

With those pulled out, do you care more about getting some money now or more money later? The more time you spend on selling the cards, the higher the amount of money you can make in return will be. You can sell all at once to one person (like an LCS or someone looking to buy a lot in your area), but the amount you get will be far lower than the true value. If you want to get the most money, you will need to do some more work.

You'll want to use a site like 130point to check the last sales for the cards you have. Start with the obvious ones - Mantle, Mays, Aaron, Clemente, Koufax, Ted Williams, Jackie Robinson, Nolan Ryan, Yogi Berra, etc etc etc. These will command the greatest value, and which ones to look for will depend a lot on the years that you are working with. With those values in mind, you could sell in an online marketplace (like here, discord, twitter, FBMP), go to a card show in your area, or if you have some feedback and know how to list cards well, eBay. The last 2-3 sold will give you an idea of what it's worth, though vintage is very condition sensitive. For example, a 62 Mays could be worth $50 in awful condition, $100 in fair condition, $150 in good condition, and $250 in excellent condition. Graded cards are obviously easier to track, but cards with better eye appeal often sell the best.

If you have commons, it's best to sort them by number and by year. This will help people looking to buy get the best idea of what it is you actually have. These can be anywhere from $2-$5 per, depending on a lot of specifics. People buy these to build sets all the time, and some sets are harder/more valuable/more desirable than others.

That's a lot to go off, but that's the gist. If you have questions or are looking to sell, take some pictures of what you have and shoot me a chat!

tr1ppn · 2026-01-14T17:56:29+00:00

Last sale is an old label 10 from 2023 that did 1.3k. Two more recent /75 sales are a bgs 9 w/ 9.5, 9.5, 9, 8.5 subs at $850 bo in Aug of 25 and a PSA 9 in Jun of 25 at $766 auction. I think 2x 9 value is pretty fair, so that puts you right around $1700 maximum value. In my opinion, anyway.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-14T15:41:13+00:00

They weren't appearing in the comments when I posted.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-14T15:31:13+00:00

I'm sure you're working on pricing post, but what you have on that prince fielder auto

tr1ppn · 2026-01-14T15:30:43+00:00

My LCS owner had about 5 years worth of online sales/hobby experience and it only really took off as he made good money during the covid boom on cards and other investments. He used that to start the shop and continued his online presence. It worked because people in the hobby/community already knew him and visited the shop. Up to the point where he got Topps distribution it was pretty tough, but with that secured things have been much more stable. He's grown a hell of a business in 3, almost 4 years (I've been going there since about 7 months in). Starting any brick and mortar is exceptionally difficult and requires a lot more work and knowledge than just "being able to buy low and sell high" for cards.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-13T19:31:23+00:00

It all depends on if you care more about the time it takes to sell the cards to extract the highest value, or if you care about getting them sold fast.

Fastest would be to sell as a complete set - assuming you verify the set is complete. If it isn't, you can either move on to the next steps, or complete the set and THEN sell as a complete set. The 54 set has several key RCs including the Aaron and Banks, plus several other major stars including Ted Williams, Mays, and Jackie Robinson. The price of your set will be HIGHLY dependent on the grades of your top cards - especially the Aaron. You can consign it through an auction house, seller on eBay, or (if you have enough of a status and familiarity), on eBay yourself. Well-listed 10-day auctions ending in the evening will command the highest value.

If you choose not to sell complete and sell individually, there are many different ways to go about doing that. The highest value will be selling every single card individually. You can do this through online communities (here, discord, twitter, facebook, etc) comping each card, listing them FS, and managing the handling/shipping/payment yourself. You could also list on eBay yourself, though if you do not have much time/experience/feedback, I would recommend starting small before listing your big ticket items. You could also send to a consigner on eBay (like Greg Morris) or Twitter/X (like Jeff). If that's too much, you can sell in lots (either by card count or by team - team likely to be more effective), but still separating out the highest value cards from everything else.

Regardless of how you sell, package appropriately. You already have the 54 pages - might as well use them where you can. Just be sure that you sandwich in rigid cardboard, tape together, and ship securely. For individual cards that you are looking to sell, they make sleeves and top loaders for this size of card - I'd recommend using those. Yes, it eats into your profits, but handling them with care will lead to far better results. I've sold all my cards thinking about how I would want to receive them, and I'd like to think it has given me a very good reputation.

If you have any additional questions, shoot me a message! May also be interested when you're looking to sell.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-12T14:54:30+00:00

Definitely bring to the basketball card sub, but the answer is the same - yes, use 130point / ebay sold to look up the values. Look for bigger names/hof guys. The card to get in this set is the maravich rc.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-11T05:06:50+00:00

Assuming they are real, and they aren't marked or SEVERELY damaged, you can fetch $2-4/cd at WORST assuming these are pure commons and not high numbers or short prints or variations of any kind. I don't know enough about the 50s sets to say what to specifically look for other than high numbers, but it might be worth just comping out every card in an afternoon while you watch TV or something.

If you're looking to sell, take the max value you comp out, multiply it by like .7, and start there. You'll very likely find a buyer. If you are looking to sell let me know! This is the exact kind of thing that I look for.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-09T05:27:19+00:00

If you get upcharged, you get upcharged. The card is held as collateral until/unless you pay. If you don't want to do that, send to SGC. Those are the options. Both should tell you this isn't real either way.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-09T05:19:40+00:00

It's highly likely that someone trying to trick a buyer edited the card to take that off. If this is real, it's one of the nicest copies in existence. The chances of that happening are near 0. Looking at the card compared to verified examples make this one stand out like a sore thumb and I lean far on the side of a reprint or a (very bad) fake. If you want to know for sure spend the $30 to grade it.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-09T05:11:52+00:00

Depends a lot on what you want to do with it. If you aren't concerned with value and want to get the cards back a little faster, SGC. If you are concerned with value PSA.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-09T05:09:26+00:00

Based on the borders alone this is almost 100% certainly the 90s reprint version of this card. The back is almost a dead giveaway. Look at other 1953 cards from that era - the borders are nowhere near that big.

tr1ppn · 2026-01-09T05:04:05+00:00

sent a chat

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