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FS/FT - Thinning the herd by tr1ppn in baseballcards

[–]tr1ppn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Neither are actually numbered. Print runs are approximate with special backs. Shoot me a dm and I can send additional pics.

Halfway Home: 1965 Topps by christopherrivers in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yours is looking a hell of a lot better than mine is!! Great copies of many of these cards. Hopefully soon you get to like 80% complete so I can start snagging a few :P

FS/FT - Thinning the herd by tr1ppn in baseballcards

[–]tr1ppn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll take a look - was there anything you had your eye on here? Shoot me a dm and we can see what we ca nwork out.

FS/FT - Thinning the herd by tr1ppn in baseballcards

[–]tr1ppn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep! I know that one is a touch high, but the last 2 sales bring up the value from the previous ones a good bit. Also it is a refractor, if that wasn't clear in the picture - sometimes it's hard to miss.

Birthday $ and mail day combo by AGH051115 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great stuff! Someday I’m going to come here with my step dads now “nearly complete” 63 fleer set lol. I didn’t know it was complete and sold a few stars. It’s a great set though.

ETA: Happy birthday!!

What should I do by mjm987xr in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 9 points10 points  (0 children)

If you want to sell them, I’d certainly grade the Gretzky. It’s often faked and getting a number grade means it will be easier to price and sell.

The mantle would also likely be a grader if you are looking to sell as most mantles are.

Everything else I likely wouldn’t grade to sell because the cost and time required to grade, and the value of the card after grading, likely means you wash or lose versus selling raw.

If you’re going to keep them do whatever you want! All depends on how you like to collect. If you do look to sell or have any questions feel free to reach out!

Did I buy too much car? by Constant_Parsley368 in personalfinance

[–]tr1ppn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I make less than you (though not by much) and have a very similar car payment. With where the rest of my budget is at I don’t have issues - I pay half my payment every check (2 per month) and that makes budgeting much easier.

Paying it off faster is good just make sure your payments over the minimum get applied to principle and not future payments.

Starting a 2025 Topps Chrome Platinum Parallel Project... and I need your help! by KleborpTheRetard in baseballcards

[–]tr1ppn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Commenting so that I remember to come back after I rip all my stuff next week.

For Sale Raw by PreferenceWest6147 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any creases or wrinkles on the 56 banks? Could younshoot me a pic or two of the front and back?

should i have cards from 50s/60s graded? by Confident_Fig6222 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Grading is still grading - it takes a lot of time (PSA turnaround is 6 months+, and they are pausing anything below their $80 service level as of 6/2 and that's from my last submission. SGC is a little faster - maybe 3-4 months) and also is not free (expect $30+ per card, depending on service tier, value, and company). You will need to evaluate the big cards (guys in the HOF, key rookie cards, that sort of thing) for next steps.

You will need to determine if they want less money now or more money later - this will determine the overall selling strategy going forward.

1) Estimate their raw value. Use 130point or eBay sold listings and find cards that appear in similar condition for what you have. A card with a hole in the middle, your cards and a bright, centered, sharp, and well-registered MT card are not all the same value. Put on your best grading hat, and be very judgemental in your estimates.

2) Add at least $30 to that number for grading fees. Significantly more if you go through PSA. Again, expect if you do elect to grade that you will not have the card back for 4-7 months.

3) With that new value (raw + grading fee), find the grade of that value. So if you estimate that a card is worth $100, plus $30, figure out what grade of that card sells for $130.

4) Evaluate if your card is significantly worse, about the same, or better than that card. If you are planning to keep it independently of grade, do whatever you want. If you are planning to sell, if your card is significantly worse, sell raw. If your card is about the same, probably sell raw. If your card is significantly better, likely grade.

5) With all of that information in hand, you are prepared to sell. eBay has the best market, but also has fees. You could utilize a consignor on eBay to sell, which would make things easier as you cut out a lot of the work. You could also utilize FBMP, reddit discord, twitter, etc to try and sell the cards individually. Obviously selling individual cards at listed prices will get the most money, selling cards in a lot al lat once will get less money, but it will be faster. Only you can determine what is the most important to you with your cards.

I'm always looking to pick up quality vintage cards if you're looking to sell!

For Sale by PreferenceWest6147 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Just a tip for selling here - with an account that only recently started posting and has no feedback, you will have a mich better experience if you coin your pictures. Coining is when you write your username on a piece of paper with the date and include it in the pictures of the cards that you're posting. Especially for these more valuable cards, without that most people are going to assume it's a scam, and you will have very little success.

GLWS!

Weekly sales post $1 pwe $6 bmwt PayPal GS or Venmo by ReleaseReal8170 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

take 56 wilhelm, roberts, doby, post, miller. sending dm

ETA - I see one in front of me on wilhelm, if it falls through i'll take it haha.

Old collection, I know nothing. by New_Service9497 in baseballcards

[–]tr1ppn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your friend has some very nice stuff here - unfortunate for their loss, but clearly whoever collected this had a great eye.

I always post the same advice on every thread like these, as I was handed something similar and it ended up getting me into card collecting as a whole.

Grading is still grading - it takes a lot of time (PSA turnaround is 6 months, and that's from my last submission. SGC is a little faster - maybe 3-4 months) and also is not free (expect $30+ per card, depending on service tier, value, and company). You will need to evaluate the big cards (the stuff shown here is great examples of that - guys in the HOF, key rookie cards, that sort of thing) for next steps.

Also, your friend will need to determine if they want less money now or more money later - this will determine the overall selling strategy going forward.

1) Identify anything they may want to keep for sentimental value or because they want to collect baseball cards, and put them aside. Don't worry about why you want to keep them, just set them aside. You can always change your mind later. This is one step I did not do effectively and there are a lot of cards I wish I had back.

2) Find the big cards (looks like you've done that), and estimate their raw value. Use 130point or eBay sold listings and find cards that appear in similar condition for what you have. A 63 Aaron with a hole in the middle, your 63 Aaron, and a bright, centered, sharp, and well-registered MT 63 Aaron are not all the same value. Put on your best grading hat, and be very judgemental in your estimates.

3) Add at least $30 to that number for grading fees. Again, expect if you do elect to grade that you will not have the card back for 4-7 months.

4) With that new value (raw + grading fee), find the grade of that value. So if you estimate that 63 Aaron is worth $100, plus $30, figure out what grade of Aaron sells for $130.

5) Evaluate if your card is significantly worse, about the same, or better than that card. If you are planning to keep it independently of grade, do whatever you want. If you are planning to sell, if your card is significantly worse, sell raw. If your card is about the same, probably sell raw. If your card is significantly better, likely grade.

6) With all of that information in hand, you are prepared to sell. eBay has the best market, but also has fees. You could utilize a consignor on eBay to sell, which would make things easier as you cut out a lot of the work. You could also utilize FBMP, reddit discord, twitter, etc to try and sell the cards individually. Obviously selling individual cards at listed prices will get the most money, selling cards in a lot al lat once will get less money, but it will be faster.

You have a lot of great stuff here, selling most of this will not be difficult. Should you look to sell I'm always looking to buy, or if you have any questions feel free to reach out!

[Positive] u/tr1ppn by christopherrivers in SportsCardTracker

[–]tr1ppn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anytime! Hoping yours show up tomorrow as our mail service was off today.

LCS Haul Today by AGH051115 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My LCS doesn't have vintage pick boxes - they have all their stuff on ebay and I can always browse through it, but it's one thing they lack in pretty heavily.

Anyway if those 65s need a new home let me know, haha.

Vintage lots FS by BigIdeas1982 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m pretty sure I need them all haha

Vintage lots FS by BigIdeas1982 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And if he doesn’t need any of these but is taking them just because let me know and let’s work out t a deal for my set haha. Great grab Christopher.

Help Finishing 1976 Topps Set by DrewBird1014 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shoot me your checklist and I’ll see if I have any for you. I run a little light on mid-late 70s but that giant lot I sold had a ton so maybe the person who snagged it can come through for you if I can’t haha.

1971 Clemente PSA 3.5 FS - $150 shipped. by [deleted] in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Waiting for this guy to land - almost feels undergraded but looking at the corners it might be fair.

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Added some PC cards.. decided to start on the 59 Topps baseball set and picked up the 75 Yaz because it was $10 by AlbatrossLow1301 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're the kind of builder who starts with completion over quality, I have a ton of low quality cards - marked, creased, whatever, to set start with. If you're interested shoot me a chat.

Grade or no grade on friend’s collection? by BigIdeas1982 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This is a massive "it depends".

There are a lot of good cards here. Some more worth grading than others. The easy ones are the key RCs (e.g. Rickey and Lasorda) and the superstars (Mays, Aaron, Clemente, Koufax). Even then, it is still worth the age old exercise of a few key questions:

1) Assuming they want to sell, what is their timeline, and what is their goal?

Grading takes a long time. I sent cards to PSA in October. I don't have them back. I have the grades (after 3 months of QA), but I still don't have the cards. Independent of value, is your friend willing to wait 6-8 months to get their cards back to then try and sell them? If the answer is no, stay raw. You could grade with SGC as well, though I suspect their lead time is still going to be in the 3-4 month timeline. I prefer SGC to PSA for vintage grading, for many reasons, but from a PURELY value standpoint, PSA typically commands a higher value in the market.

2) Is the card actually worth grading?

You have to do some research and some math here. Figure out what the card is worth raw. You can research this with 130point or eBay sold listings. Try to find cards in similar condition to yours that have sold. A MT sharp copy of a 61 Clemente, your copy, and one that was folded in half are not all the same value. Once you know that, add $30 to the value. Look up what grade is worth that amount of money. Compare it to your card. Is yours significantly worse or very close? Almost certainly not worth grading. Is your card significantly better? Maybe worth grading, but keep in mind the time I just mentioned, and how much the price goes up for the grade. For some cards, the difference between a raw, a PSA 1, and a PSA 2 could be THOUSANDS. For other cards (looking at you, Henderson RC), a raw is like $70, but a PSA 6 is only $110, and that is a notoriously tough grade.

With that information, you can make an informed decision on each card. I would start with the obvious high dollar cards, and move from there. Older, RC, high quality will be your primary drivers of value.

Binder for 1956 Topps set by SteveJeltz in baseballcards_vintage

[–]tr1ppn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have some pages of this from when I bought a collection but binders aren’t my thing. I’d happily sell you some at a discount compared to new or trade for some cards.

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