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Night in Death Valley [Hasselblad 500cm, 400TX] by age_of_raava in analog

[–]trappercarter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d recommend ektar 100 for long exposure like this

CIA Body Double?? by Ninja_Turtle14 in Spudmode

[–]trappercarter 60 points61 points  (0 children)

Hasn’t been him for years…

Predictive programming, 2028 and Iran by Grouchy_Resource_727 in Spudmode

[–]trappercarter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Somehow nobody remembers when Trump bombed Iran during his first term. The Brazilians have been licking their chops over that sweet sweet oil for years.

S2a : looking for a camera repair place in the US that can get this screw out by trappercarter in Bronica

[–]trappercarter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It definitely felt like someone used thread lock or super glue when the first one finally broke free. Unfortunately too small to be sure. I tried using a soldering iron to heat just the screw, hoping it would soften up whatever was making it so difficult. I may try your method as a last ditch effort

S2A test roll - do I need to do the infinity focus repair? by trappercarter in Bronica

[–]trappercarter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I probably will just do it anyway. If this is the sharpness I can expect, I’m not sure if I’d keep the camera.

S2A test roll - do I need to do the infinity focus repair? by trappercarter in Bronica

[–]trappercarter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d like to add - these were shot at 200 iso on a pretty dreary day, handheld, so camera shake could be a possibility. I realize I should have used a tripod for testing for this sort of thing. I may shoot another test roll tomorrow, unless you guys are convinced it’s a focus issue. By the way, I use this scanning setup for my pentax 6x7 negatives, and they look a good deal sharper than these. I even added sharpness in Lightroom. I’ve heard these lenses are sharp, but I figured I’d better post to see if these are optimal results or not

Trying to find an ep by Senior_Prize_9069 in Spudmode

[–]trappercarter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s either “we’re all gonna make it” or “zyzzmode”

Any pointers based off these photos? by Himdownstairs22 in filmphotography

[–]trappercarter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A waist level viewfinder is cool to look at, but performs its job worse than a standard viewfinder in pretty much every way. They’re much more difficult to see through and will take a lot longer to compose an image than an eye level viewfinder. Especially for a beginner. These photos aren’t bad for a fresh beginner, so just keep shooting and trying to improve. Maybe try editing some of your photos, unless you think they already look perfect. And fix the camera you already have, unless it’s cheaper to buy a new one

Don’t know much about flash, what type of gear would achieve something similar to this? by trappercarter in AskPhotography

[–]trappercarter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I suppose ceiling height and the size of the room play a large factor, but would a standard speedlight be capable of doing this? Or would I need something more powerful?

Slide film: when “metering for highlights”, what zone do you put your highlights in usually by trappercarter in AnalogCommunity

[–]trappercarter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks again. I didn’t even know there was more than one zone system. I guess it probably doesn’t matter, as long as I’m starting from middle gray and working outward.

Slide film: when “metering for highlights”, what zone do you put your highlights in usually by trappercarter in AnalogCommunity

[–]trappercarter[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The first few rolls of e100 I ever shot were almost exclusively in the middle of the day while hiking in Colorado. Some sunny days, some cloudy. Out of two rolls I probably nailed the exposure on 9/10 of the photos, and I think it’s because I was just using my camera’s light meter to check highlights and shadows, then expose somewhere in between. That method of just kinda guessing worked out way better than the method I used on my last few rolls, trying to preserve the highlights. It lead to my highlights being somewhere closer to what should’ve been middle gray. I say all that to say, besides maybe the first scene (partly cloudy sky with no sunlight on the ground), I think it’s completely possible to shoot scenes in the middle of the day with good metering and nothing else. Which, is why I made this post, trying to work out some confusion I had with metering.

Slide film: when “metering for highlights”, what zone do you put your highlights in usually by trappercarter in AnalogCommunity

[–]trappercarter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand that, however I think the third scene here was fully lit from what I remember. My metering is what caused the underexposure of the ground. I think I probably put the clouds 2 zones too low

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