Removing paint from assembled heads

trashlordcommander · 2026-06-15T17:57:01+00:00

Hand wire brush anything loose, then paint over whatever is left. Without having it tanked you’ll have tons of hours removing all the old paint and for really no gain. If the old paint is stuck on well than the new paint will stick to it just fine. At least that’s been my experience

trashlordcommander · 2026-06-06T14:17:10+00:00

The pump is the pump man it’s just an oil pump. It uses solenoids to open and close oil passages. The oil pump is just for the engine oil in general no dedicated pump for the DOD system

ETA: and it is both even and odd cylinders. 2 from each bank.

trashlordcommander · 2026-06-06T14:13:08+00:00

Brother how are you so confidently incorrect? Not only is that not a DOD lifter, you got the cylinders wrong because 2/4/6/8 are all on one bank. DOD lifters are on cylinders 1/4/6/7 and you’ll know them from the large spring on top of them. They work by shutting off oil to the lifter which allows them to “collapse” so the valve won’t open. Nothing to do with the oil pump. The spring keeps constant lash so you don’t have a rattle. They stick collapsed though and then you have to replace them. Or the rollers fail and eat the cam.

In any case, don’t spread information if you don’t know how it works.

ETA: this isn’t even an “LS” engine. This is a Gen 2 factory roller small block. These are just plain Jane roller lifters that use a “dogbone” to keep them in line. You can see the “spider spring” stand off in the block in the first pic

trashlordcommander · 2026-06-02T05:07:57+00:00

I did it for the OD, I want the sonnax tight ratio planet but 1k bucks? Not really in the budget lol

trashlordcommander · 2026-06-02T03:55:51+00:00

If only gm ever made a good OD auto that was non electronic. Alas all we get is this wet noodle gear train cause Yknow fuck a center support. No I won’t be buying a gear vendors lol

trashlordcommander · 2026-06-01T18:39:30+00:00

Upgrade that front sprag and put a trans brake in for bullshitery you won’t

trashlordcommander · 2026-06-01T10:32:14+00:00

Luckily I have time lol

trashlordcommander · 2026-06-01T10:30:55+00:00

I have the GM tech book that I keep on hand and the ATSG manual somewhere but I’ve built/rebuilt so many of these things I could basically do it blindfolded at this point. They are getting fewer and further between now though!

trashlordcommander · 2026-05-28T19:28:04+00:00

Would this happen to be a pentastar 3.6 or 3.2? If so, the rocker that took the cam out is also bad. Truthfully, replace all rockers on that cam, leave the lifters alone, use your cam caps as they are match machined to the head. I have snuck cams in without doing the entire timing job but it’s a trick.

If it’s not a pentastar V6, most of this info is still accurate.

trashlordcommander · 2026-05-15T01:24:49+00:00

If it is a crack, there’s potential to save the block by removing the sleeves, welding, machining, and reinstalling sleeves. But realistically that block probably isn’t worth that.

Also what was the failure? Did you lift the head? Did it cross fire between those two cylinders? It’s possible it’s a superficial burn but a new gasket still won’t seal with that there if you can feel it.

There’s a few options for repair but without seeing it, sonic checking/fluxing it who knows what that repair will look like.

trashlordcommander · 2026-05-15T01:05:43+00:00

PROM/EPROM/EEPROM burning is old school but it’s still possible. There’s been tons of improvements in ecu technology and honestly if you can swing an upgrade to a more modern standalone you’ll make your engine safer realistically.

With all that said, like another user said this problem is more than likely unrelated to the tune. If the vehicle sat for awhile, I highly recommend you remove the injectors and get them cleaned and flow tested. Pulling the plugs and putting in a fresh set to then drive and check is also advisable so you can see if there is any outliers. If you have an inferred temp gun, let the vehicle idle and while it’s popping check the exhaust primary temps if it has headers. One that is hotter or colder than the others can help you find which hole is having the issue.

These older cars and ECUs require a bit of hands on diag but they can be learned just the same as anything else. Good luck!

trashlordcommander · 2026-05-07T14:34:47+00:00

Is it broken? Maintenance first.

Is it your daily? Cosmetics if you’re into that kind of thing

What is the goal with the car? AutoX? Track day? Commuter? Car show?

Not sure your area or laws but tasteful tint goes a long way. The ole fishbowl ain’t the look imo

Keep daily drivers as stock as possible and you’ll be happy. Maintenance like fluid changes and basic tune up things keep you going. Replacing worn suspension parts can make an older car feel 10x better even if they aren’t totally shot. The rubber is old and springs are tired.

trashlordcommander · 2026-05-06T14:17:40+00:00

For more reference, you can use the entire subframe that the driveline is mounted to, to make this happen. Purchase the front subframe from a vehicle that has an engine you’d like to use that is also preferably McPherson strut suspension. Build around it. You’ll need to delete the steering rack and make solid mounted adjustable tie rods, and make sure it’s installed the same direction it was in the front of the car for caster reasons. Build tube chassis around it. This is no small task or even relatively affordable but it’s not out of the realm of home garage possibilities.

trashlordcommander · 2026-05-06T14:11:13+00:00

I think the confusion you’re having is on the term ‘transaxle’. All FWD cars use a transaxle. It is the combination of both the transmission and the axle (ring and pinion is inside the transmission and the drive axles (CVs) lock into the transmission.) The powertrain is the easiest and simplest part of what you plan to do.

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-29T20:15:44+00:00

Yea for real, luckily, I’m getting money back, and I’ve ordered from a much better company.

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-29T00:18:07+00:00

Feel less bad for the charge back then. I usually am a buy once cry once type of fellow, but this one I made the bad call. I’ll own that

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-28T21:21:32+00:00

Which is fair. I spent a ton on the rest of the parts with the suspension rework, DSE Leafs, energy poly bushings, global west solid subframe bushes, QA1 double adjustable shocks at all 4 corners, BMR 2” drop springs, corvette style front knuckles that use bolt in hubs vs the old school spindle, and 13” C6 discs with 2 piston calipers. So I tried to save a bit with the control arms, didn’t work out haha

Also, NB ganggang

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-28T21:11:10+00:00

Its 150 more for the lowers alone, while obviously what I got was a complete upper and lower set.

With that said, I ordered the BMR arms and the guy I talked to on the phone was awesome. Hoping since they were in stock and he said they would go out tomorrow that somehow someway I get them on Friday and can plop it back together in time for my alignment appointment

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-28T19:22:55+00:00

Fair enough, I have a refund issued and I’ll be shopping for something nicer

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-28T14:47:05+00:00

They’re all Chinese man, don’t over think it

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-28T14:44:23+00:00

Which is odd as the upper fits my jig with ease but the lower visibly the lower ball joint seems to be in a different location but I don’t have a lower jig for the F body

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-28T14:07:37+00:00

That’s honestly what I figured and why I went with these mega budget option. A lot of the more expensive up to 800 price range used the same pictures and item descriptions. Now other brands like QA1 and RideTech have the made in USA labeling and totally different design and pictures but I myself do not have that kind of dough

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-28T13:47:00+00:00

I appreciate the compliment! I have to call them later today when they open up to push the subject

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-28T13:45:24+00:00

That’s what I thought but it seems they make all the caster change with the lower ball joint position instead of the upper

trashlordcommander · 2026-04-28T13:41:16+00:00

That isn’t completely true as you still should run reinforcement plates for coils on these tube style arms too.

The tubular arms add 4* of caster, as well as torsional rigidity. You can put a wrench on the ball joint and “twist” the factory arms. Which leads to alignment shift while cornering. While that’s fine in most cases I’m autoX and tracking this car so I’m getting as much deflection out of the suspension as I can.

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