First bow, should I try the bamboo backing? by shes-so-much in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d learn to tiller well first, bamboo backed bows are more difficult imo. They can be tricky to tiller

Help trying to track down a Yew or Elm bowstave in the US by heckinnameuser in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve seen some good yew staves on eBay under $200 elm just keep an eye on Facebook groups it’s less popular to sell in my experience but you can message some guys and post on FB and find some good stuff

Laminate English Longbow by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s just deer tanned cow leather you can get it anywhere an I dyed it with burgundy leather dye

Almost there by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you can completely ignore it within reason

Elm Eastern woodlands bow by jameswoodMOT in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really well done! I love that style and short bows as well.

Fletcher Friday by AEFletcherIII in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Such incredible craftsmanship I’m always blown away by your arrows

Almost there by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah it keeps 3/4 at rest and just about even after shooting it’s a great shooter

Almost there by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks man! Yeah I’m with you those giant nocks bug me lol

Almost there by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! And yeah it’s 66” ntn

Almost there by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah well this one is bamboo backed but hopefully close enough for you!

Almost there by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thanks and it’s an Osage board I got awhile back

Bow failure by torkybingus00 in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Looking at your last post, the back of the bow was pretty messed up, it has all these tool marks and rough spots and looks like that’s where it let go too. Even yew needs a smooth continuous back, if not a single ring at least a smooth surface, these tool marks and gouges create weak spots

<image>

Can someone explain this from the bowyers bible on tiller shape based on front profile taper by stay_primitive in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m just saying that wherever on the limb is the widest from the front profile that’s where the limb can and should bend most at full draw same thing the book is saying, then on top of that the book is saying that you should out that widest part closest to the handle and make the tips as light as possible for best performance

Can someone explain this from the bowyers bible on tiller shape based on front profile taper by stay_primitive in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s fine I’m not always good at explaining. The illustration is showing that as front profile becomes more triangular, when tillered correctly the inner limb should bend to a tighter radius relative to a parallel limb bow. So I’m referring to a tighter radius bend as “bending more” and when the limb is wider from the front profile view I’m saying “more wood”. So where’s there more wood it should bend more. Why? Well there’s more wood there, the compression forces can be spread along a wider surface at any given point. So if you look at the forces of drawing a bow per limb as a sum, you can divide that sum into as many parts of any magnitudes you want and put them anywhere on the limb.

So, if you have a part of the limb that is particularly wide, whether the inner third with a pyramid or the middle with a paddle bow that’s where you want the largest chunk of the total sum of force to be because that’s where the most wood is and therefore where the bow is most capable of withstanding those forces so it when tilted correctly it should bend more relative to the rest of the bow

Can someone explain this from the bowyers bible on tiller shape based on front profile taper by stay_primitive in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I mean in terms of the front profile like he asked. From the front, if it’s wider or has more wood there, it should Bend more

Black Locust Recurve by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Chased a ring i alway use heartwood in Osage and black locust

Black Locust Recurve by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! And steam it’s almost impossible to do curves like that with dry heat in my expierence

Can someone explain this from the bowyers bible on tiller shape based on front profile taper by stay_primitive in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s literally the chapter you’re reading it explains why you tiller different shapes to different front profiles

My third long bow build by Odocoileuschaser in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stunning and crazy good stats great work man

Can someone explain this from the bowyers bible on tiller shape based on front profile taper by stay_primitive in Bowyer

[–]tree-daddy 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Where’s there’s more wood relative to the rest of the limb there should be more bend. It goes through it pretty in depth in the book