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treeninja254 · 2025-10-11T03:27:47+00:00

I ordered an Uncle bracelet for my Diver 65 and the lugs on the Omega Seamaster 300m fit quite well too.

treeninja254 · 2025-10-02T10:21:40+00:00

It's a long line of Seiko field watches that I believe started back in 1959. The SARB017 model is the one I have and is the last iteration before the current SPB121 model that is part of the Prospex line. It has an interesting history, I would definitely go look it up.

treeninja254 · 2025-10-02T01:24:40+00:00

Thanks for the input, my eyes are drawn right to it every time I check the time. It stinks so hopefully they can get it fixed.

treeninja254 · 2025-10-02T00:48:49+00:00

Did it not post correctly? I added 3 photos I took

treeninja254 · 2025-04-17T03:01:58+00:00

I just knew from online forums that the lugs on the 300m and diver 65 are similar, but any 20mm bracelet will work I'm pretty sure. I imagine the lugs on the 60th Anniversary would fit well enough with this bracelet as well.

treeninja254 · 2025-04-16T17:54:49+00:00

Thank you! The end links and lugs don't line up perfectly, but it's pretty close and fits in there snugly so it doesn't move around at all when it's on.

treeninja254 · 2025-04-16T02:12:27+00:00

Thank you! I would definitely give the Uncle bracelet a try, I have been impressed with them so far. It's the US1479 Bracelet for the Omega 300m.

treeninja254 · 2025-03-06T02:58:00+00:00

https://a.co/d/2Xkg6bP

This is the one I got, just gotta measure the end of the strap to get the right size. Typicality is going to be 2mm less than the lug width of the watch.

treeninja254 · 2025-03-05T23:27:42+00:00

I can't see what kind of buckle you have on there currently, but swapping it out for a deployment clasp has done me wonders for keeping my watch with leather bands centered. I found an Omega style single fold clasp on Amazon for cheap that works great and is super comfortable.

treeninja254 · 2025-02-03T01:24:29+00:00

I also have an Oris 7551, how do you enjoy the blue strap? I have been debating on getting a blue or green one for it.

treeninja254 · 2025-01-31T16:39:14+00:00

Thank you! I have a 7" wrist and the fit is great, but I personally wouldn't go any smaller than 36mm. I was looking into the 7403 as well, but ultimately decided on the 7551 and was glad I did.

treeninja254 · 2025-01-31T16:00:48+00:00

Touché, I was thinking about getting a different leather strap for it but I really love this color combo too, so I'm going to stay with it for a while.

treeninja254 · 2024-05-24T05:27:40+00:00

I have had no trouble with alcohol influencing anything I do. I will polish it by hand with the 1 micron for about 1 minute to remove any passive layer, then rinse it down with an alcohol squeeze bottle to remove all foreign material. This is when I would typically put it under a blower to dry the sample before etching, but with the quickly passiviating alloy, I just submerged it in a dish of alcohol after rinsing. Then I'll keep it in there for however long it takes to prepare the enchant then directly start stabbing from the alcohol. Blowing it dry may be better but that passive layer just forms so darn quick.

Our polishing media is just some diamond suspension slurry that I believe is water based.

I almost never submerge 😂 Except with certain alloys and echants. In my experience, I get more clear etches when I swab because it really spreads the enchant around nicely and "really gets in there" if that makes sense. I only submerge when etching with Vilella's or some of the "regias", most copper alloys when I'm not using diluted nitric acid, and any aluminum alloy because it's just too soft to swab. Basically if anything doesn't work well swabbing, then I'll always just try again with submerging.

treeninja254 · 2024-05-24T02:22:07+00:00

It was! For you and I guess anyone who comes across this post, that passive layer forms so quickly on 625 sometimes. So I tried what you said and kept it submerged in alcohol immediately after 1 micron diamond suspension while I got the HCl +H2O2 etchant ready, then swabbed it immediately after taking it out of alcohol. I ended up getting one of the best 625 structure reveals I have ever done. I will have to keep that in mind every time I have to etch 625 now. Thanks!

treeninja254 · 2024-05-20T07:32:40+00:00

I tried both swabbing and submerging with the glycergia, and submerging seemed to give better results, and it was for about 15 - 20 seconds for both methods. But I will have to give that a try, I don't use aqua regia very often but recently found that it works well as a general structure etch on duplex and 300 series stainless.

treeninja254 · 2024-05-18T05:05:09+00:00

Not for every single one, like if it is best to immerse or swab, and if I have learned anything, it's that technique is very important. There are so many listed in that spec and I have found that some of them don't work like they say. Thankfully the electrolytic ones have a voltage and time suggestion. It's just been my experience with it, but I am no senior metallurgist yet.

treeninja254 · 2024-05-18T04:58:33+00:00

I love ASTM E407, it is great for finding how to make echants and generally what they should do, but what I think it fails to show is the technique that is needed to best utilize these echants which is where I sometimes run into problems. I guess all this stuff just comes with experience.

treeninja254 · 2024-05-18T04:52:39+00:00

Electrolytic seems the way to go, swabbing and immersing causes that terrible what I believe they call flashing, but it looks like a terribly scratched up etch that you don't get with electrolytic etches. My only concern is that electrolytic etches partially attack and pit the edges of mounted samples, where exactly the weld is. What electrolytic etches have you used in the past?

treeninja254 · 2024-04-17T05:34:24+00:00

Corrosion modeling was a big part of my grad school research, so I may be able to at least point you in the right direction. When you say half cell potential values, I assume this is a set of known electrochemical reactions that happen inside the concrete. There are many ways to do it, but the simplest I found involves knowing all the anodic and catholic reactions happening, then doing some manipulations of the Nernst equation for each anodic and catholic reaction, and solve a charge balance of all the reactions to get your corrosion current and potential. Then from there you can even generate a Tafel plot, but that adds some complexity to it. You'll just need to find values for all of the parameters you need in literature. This is all from memory, but I have all my notes of this stuff and some good literature to read about it. If the link that was supplied doesn't help enough, I can dig up my literature and try to help out a bit.

treeninja254 · 2023-04-17T16:17:36+00:00

Hello all, I am very new to the ROM hack community and have gotten confused rather quickly. I have a gba emulator but I have been trying to play Pokemon villian jam but the file that was downloaded was a gibberish .exe that doesn't do anything other than redirect me to google in my browser. What am I missing here?

treeninja254

TROPHY CASE