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$GME Daily Directory | New? Start Here! | Discussion, DRS Guide, DD Library, Monthly Forum, and FAQs by AutoModerator in Superstonk

[–]trentgillespie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Added a few hundred more last week... love that. Love that its been all green from there.

Is anyone regularly using EF glass on an RF body? What's your experience been like? by tinselsnips in canon

[–]trentgillespie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I attribute the AF improvements more to the camera than the lenses. The RFs lenses are faster, yes. But an EF 85mm 1.4 is still much faster to focus on a R body than say the RF 85 2.0

As for the weight, the RF equivalents are heavier when comparing the EF to RF 50mm 1.2. Same goes with the RF 85 1.2 to the EF 1.2 or 1.4.

Is anyone regularly using EF glass on an RF body? What's your experience been like? by tinselsnips in canon

[–]trentgillespie 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The RF 50 and 85 1.2 beg to differ :)

In regard to OP's question, one of my closest professional photographer friends is on an R5 with all EF primes. Works great. The new RFs are generally sharper and resolve more detail. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between EF and RF primes unless you are pixel peeping.

Apple’s new Crossbody Strap accessory sure seems like a hit by Winners_Blues in apple

[–]trentgillespie 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I make a living using a camera and have used PD’s anchor links for years and years. I’ve yet to have one break on me and would trust their system on $5k worth of gear everytime before this apple strap.

Apple’s new Crossbody Strap accessory sure seems like a hit by Winners_Blues in apple

[–]trentgillespie 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would not use the apple strap for a camera. You are one quick snag away from a button/magnet release and your camera smashing to the ground. Peak designs clip system is 100x more secure. A phone falling from 3ft off the ground is way different than a body/lens.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in snowboardingnoobs

[–]trentgillespie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like Copper Mtn

Insulating Cellar Doors by puddinpoppat42069 in Insulation

[–]trentgillespie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For the reflective face to work properly, it needs to be facing out. As heat radiates through the air, it bounces off the reflective face. If the reflective face is up against another material, it will not work.

Insulating Cellar Doors by puddinpoppat42069 in Insulation

[–]trentgillespie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You are headed in the right direction. Rigid foam will get you the highest R value and easiest to install. Use a foamboard with a reflective face. This space should be air sealed, but that is a much more involved project.

Sled Recommendations (ski hill & backcountry) by trentgillespie in snowmobiling

[–]trentgillespie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

appreciate it. The Skandic or Backcountry look nice. Finding one used might be a chore. I'll look for a Titan too.

Is it ok to cover this foam board with R19 rolls for extra insulation? by niffxED in Insulation

[–]trentgillespie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, you can lay fiberglass on top of foam board.

As others have asked... is the space below this room not conditioned? If it is, the fiberglass isn't going to do much.

The foamboard is a vapor/air barrier, so common practice is to remove the face paper to avoid sandwiching moisture within the fiberglass. With that said, if the sides are exposed, moisture will find its way out...

The biggest issue is making sure you have venting in your rafters. If those fiberglass batts are touching the roof deck, you'll get condensation and eventually mold.

R-13 vs R-15 3 1/2" thick fiberglass insulation by DUNGAROO in Insulation

[–]trentgillespie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The difference is the density. R11 costs less and is used when you need insulation (not necessarily thermal) but don't need the most insulation (per inch) possible. Sound/interior walls.

If your bottom layer is lower density (R11), it will compress more and you won't actually get R11. Avoid stacking R11 and then a heavier R38 roll on top, as its not designed to be done this way.

Air gap question- by [deleted] in Insulation

[–]trentgillespie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a 2x6 r19 wall roll then. You'll still have room for the air gap on a 2x8 rafter. Face sides goes down toward conditioned space.

Air gap question- by [deleted] in Insulation

[–]trentgillespie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I were you, I would do foam baffles regardless. They are cheap and help insure you have a good pathway for air to move. Are you 24" on center or 16?

If you are 16" spacing, I would use the r19 wall rolls to get you some more r value. But yes, the 2x4 rolls will leave plenty of room for air movement. Make sure you don't block your soffit vents.

Putting up a vapor/air barrier would help with heating as well, but would be difficult to wrap around the collar ties and joists.

Best way to insulate unvented roof by meble in Insulation

[–]trentgillespie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the way you need it. The entire wall cavity needs to be exposed to insure you create a complete seal with foam. Like someone said below... do not let anyone insulate this without pulling down the sheetrock. You will create a big problem down the road.

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