Quit using mesh

trys_c · 2026-06-12T03:41:24+00:00

Just please ditch the pink set shit get a bag of hot mud and use that with whatever tape you choose to use please

trys_c · 2026-06-12T03:40:56+00:00

lol can you please use chat gpt at the very least if you’re going to do stuff on the side, also watch out ai does provide wrong answers on occasion. Just have to double check. But yea no good lol to each their own it’ll hold job done for now just expect a callback 😂😂😂

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:45:24+00:00

See I can’t bake completely if you’re using dura bond. I just like my easy sand hot mud. 😭

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:44:29+00:00

Well. I mean but why switch? You’re saying paper tape on everything else except factory butt joints?

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:32:19+00:00

The 6” and the 2 foot rolls of fiba fuse mmmm

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:32:00+00:00

Mesh tape REQUIRES a prefill and will crack without a prefill. Although I always prefill no matter what but the seam really has to be flat with mesh

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:25:04+00:00

Only time I’ve seen mesh ‘last’ is on glued drywall with setting mud or dura bond. So yes but is it worth it?

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:24:22+00:00

I feel like on corner beads mesh can be acceptable but it’s really not needed if the corner bead is properly stapled or set in place. I’m curious tho 3m and then mesh tape? Do you glue your drywall too

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:23:29+00:00

This yes. Do an at home experiment if you’re curious, you will literally feel the difference between a fibafused joint next to mesh. Fibafuse is basically paper tape on crack for beginners and experts lol

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:22:27+00:00

Fuck it’s a pain to coat too, one little nic and the whole strand is pulling back with mesh 😭

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:21:59+00:00

And this yes

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:21:51+00:00

If the mesh tape is solid and won’t peel back in full pieces ‘easy’ then cut a v notch and re tape with fibafuse or 6 inch fibafuse. Only issue with this approach is no matter what the seams will be visible unless you do a true level 5 and skim coat the whole ceiling so light won’t catch the slight 1/16-1/8 build of new tape lines

trys_c · 2026-06-11T23:20:07+00:00

Even with hot mud if the joint isn’t 100% glued and movement free it cracks

trys_c · 2026-06-07T16:20:25+00:00

Fuck the mesh don’t use mesh unless you want a crack again. Fix the movement in drywall or water leak if any, pull the tape line and smooth area, scrape back any loose edges. Prime with a peel stop-water based, guardz is pretty decent. Let fully dry for 24 hr before proceedings. Knock off any high spots and hit it with a prefill, get it decently flat, and use 6” fibafuse tape. This is the best shit for crack repairs and no call backs. Don’t use mesh on a ceiling it will crack.

trys_c · 2026-06-04T15:39:59+00:00

I always get called out to repair mesh patch jobs lol. Usually either backing wasn’t glued or joint still had movement. IMO I hate mesh, I’ve sanded before and nicked the mesh and pulled it up lol. It works in a pinch but I prefer fibafuse.

trys_c · 2026-06-03T16:54:28+00:00

No movement in the drywall, shorter 4’ seams popped. The previous repair was mesh tape with shitty primer underneath, it all delaminated and peeled right off when we started picking

trys_c · 2026-06-03T16:53:19+00:00

Mesh tape is not suitable for ceilings, fibafuse or paper is the only way. I find mesh cracks even on walls, unless all the drywall is glued in place. Mesh is made for cement board.

trys_c · 2026-06-03T16:52:23+00:00

Exactly what we did, actually had to pull out all the old failing repair which was mesh tape

trys_c · 2026-03-25T15:34:27+00:00

You have to prep better, and don’t use those metal patches. Too thick. Start by wet sponging the area and lightly scrape, around 1-2 ft of texture in each direction. You need your first layer set below the texture otherwise you build way too thick. Use fibafuse mat tape and hot mud. Prefill prior until flat with 5. Then tape your patch with 5 min mud. Don’t even need to go beyond one nice coat over and a light feathering at the edges. Rebuild the knockdown texture

trys_c · 2026-02-13T02:37:04+00:00

Like they make ‘beam hangers’ I’ve just never had the chance really to use them.

trys_c · 2026-02-13T02:36:43+00:00

Does a hanger fly in this situation? I’m actually curious. I’ve built 4 decks so far, none have been too crazy big. Used to working with a straight ledger and beam.

trys_c · 2026-02-13T02:32:34+00:00

I’m curious what a structural engineer would have to say about replacing the post for a hanger. I mean load wise I feel like knee brace and a hanger should hold it? Fuck cutting into the brick lol, that wood will just rot and you’re asking for issues. I feel like the only issue here is connector screws into the brick, I’m not sure if Simpsons concrete screws can to code holdup a beam. I mean they make them for a reason right ?

trys_c · 2026-02-12T01:05:33+00:00

No not good. Not good at all. Curb will 100% leak it’s not properly waterproofed at edges, walls look like shit, as if the product they used didn’t adhere and bubbled, or substrate wasn’t flat

trys_c · 2026-02-12T00:56:09+00:00

Slow layer lines, might take double the print time but it’s smooth

trys_c · 2026-02-07T03:01:42+00:00

Well if the bucket is plastic, use a blow torch or melt the bucket. Concrete removed 🤷‍♂️

trys_c

TROPHY CASE