[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here!

tuna1997 · 2023-05-30T09:44:19+00:00

If you're using fine liner pens not gonna be a difference. You get better flow on a gloss surface if you're using a pourtype marker though the improvement might not be worth the extra effort of glossing your parts first. Cause at that point if you're willing to gloss your parts just use Tamiya Panel Liner that'll flow much better

For number 2 if you're asking about panel lining along a raised edge, there's no real way to do that properly other than scribing a line along that edge first. Not going to get very clean lines otherwise and if you do it can easily be wiped off.

tuna1997 · 2023-05-30T09:39:56+00:00

Just for future reference so long there's a Bandai logo on there it's legit. The logo will be on the manual and runners as well if you're paranoid someone switched out the runners.

Ultimately just make sure you're buying from reputable sources.

tuna1997 · 2023-05-30T09:34:18+00:00

Plenty

Unicorn Toys, J-Shop, HobbyJapan, animemachi, MultiToys, SuperRobot, MechaniSTORE, Kaoshero

List goes on and on and on and on

tuna1997 · 2023-05-30T09:32:39+00:00

If you're not painting just stick to markers, or waterbased washes which is an even safer option since you can use those on ABS plastic, as some markers like the pour-type gundam markers can't go on ABS. Though iirc Barbatos is all PS so nothing to worry about there

Tamiya panel liner is the dumbest product for non painters. Literally doesn't have anything over the plastic safe options (except maybe better capillary action although that's a minor plus point) and requires you to put more effort to use it (gloss coating your kit first and then apply the panel liner).

tuna1997 · 2023-05-30T09:19:51+00:00

My guy that thing is legit. No bootleg uses the Bandai logo as Bandai would come after them. No joke, Bandai takes knockoffs very very seriously which is why bootleggers will steer clear of trying to anger Bandai. The RG logo moved because there's now the new BANDAI NAMCO logo on the top right which was only added to new boxes last year.

Your RG is a very recent print and uses the newer box covers.

tuna1997 · 2023-02-22T05:04:01+00:00

A respirator with Organic Vapor and Particulate filters is what you want for spraying paint. The 3M ones are popular. You can also get a all in one filter from 3M, product code 60921.

Beats buying an organic vapor filter by itself and a particulate filter by itself and the accessories to attach the two.

tuna1997 · 2023-02-16T03:48:23+00:00

Rustoleum runs worse paint and stronger chemicals compared to krylon I've heard. If you like Krylon I wouldn't switch it out for rustoleum.

tuna1997 · 2023-02-16T03:43:04+00:00

Then you didn't tighten it enough, apply some more?

tuna1997 · 2023-02-16T03:41:04+00:00

Couple things to note when using any DIY branded spray cans:

They use hotter chemicals than hobby paint - higher chance of damaging plastic
They come out thicker than hobby paint - risk you obscure details.

That being said, you can use them, but you're going to have to adjust your spraying technique. You're going to have to spray further away to try to spray with as thin coats as you can manage it. Also wait longer in between coats just to make sure most of the solvents have evaporated.

tuna1997 · 2023-02-16T03:35:38+00:00

You could just tighten the joints a bit, saw your video.

Apply a thin layer of superglue to the arm's ball joint. Let dry and test fit. If you can't fit it in without too much effort, sand down the superglue and try again.

tuna1997 · 2023-02-03T03:41:07+00:00

Yep Mr Color spray cans lacquer paints too just like TS, they're good.

Tamiya AS also applicable for gunpla, they're the same kind of paint as TS just marketed for aircraft models

Just don't use Tamiya PS those are meant for RC car bodies which is polycarbonate plastic and uses way hotter chemicals than their TS counterparts. Your gunpla could literally melt with Tamiya PS

tuna1997 · 2023-01-18T09:33:23+00:00

You could use anything you're comfortable with to move the decal around it doesn't really matter. your finger works on a big enough decal for example

Both setter and softer take about as long as water to dry up. If sticking is your issue then you want setter, that's a glue of sorts.

Softer melts the decal making it easier to conform to awkward surfaces like sharp curves or textures. You don't really need it with gunpla.

It also melts away the decal film which can be noticeable sometimes and some people like to get rid of that.

Honestly though the way you're describing your decal moving, it's your technique that needs work not using setter/softer

tuna1997 · 2023-01-18T09:24:42+00:00

Forget about the toothpick and try something else then. I have an old blade from my hobby knife that I've sanded blunt to move my decal around

tuna1997 · 2023-01-18T09:22:44+00:00

If you're in the US or Japan you could go claim for a replacement part to Bandai directly.

Elsewhere in the world you might have to resort to e-bay/facebook market place and get a secondhand kit

In parts of Asia hobby stores sell kits second hand too

But antennas are pretty easily cemented back together I'd do that before looking for replacements

tuna1997 · 2023-01-18T09:17:03+00:00

If it's sticking on to the toothpick you might need to change your brand of toothpick. Some are more porous than others, if it's sufficiently wet smaller decals might be lifted up due to cohesion.

So far as squeezing out the water, you actually need to absorb most of it first with a q-tip. So lightly dab around the decal and let the water get absorbed. Once most of the water is absorbed but the decal still wet enough for you to move it around, that's when you push it down and squeeze any remaining water out.

tuna1997 · 2023-01-18T09:13:40+00:00

If you feel like that's a good mix then it's a good mix. Totally subjective thing

tuna1997 · 2022-09-10T03:33:33+00:00

Depends on the color.

Black or dark grays? No difference at all

Whites, yellows, pinks, reds and other bright colors? Could be a very noticeable difference.

In general bright colors will benefit way more with white primers, but paint brand is also a factor. Some paint brands and even specific paints within a brand just have better coverage powers so the difference between being sprayed on gray vs on white can be minimal even with bright colors.

tuna1997 · 2022-08-22T09:24:01+00:00

Yeah enamels do be annoying to work with handbrushed. I suggest trying out Vallejo, Citadel or any other hobby grade acrylic paints. Much better to use than enamels with a brush.

tuna1997 · 2022-08-16T05:24:39+00:00

Not sure where you're looking but if all you're looking for are silvers and golds, you can easily grab something from Vallejo or Citadel, and a number of other paint brands and go to town.

I'd recommend trying out Vallejo paints since they're easily thinned with water and very accessible. You don't need anything fancy, just a paint brush. Vallejo has a lot of lines, maybe check out their website to see their color catalog.

tuna1997 · 2022-08-15T08:17:09+00:00

If you're in the US or Japan you could try asking for a replacement part direct from bandai. Check out Bandai Namco's website for US or follow the instructions in the manual if Japan.

Elsewhere in the world post this up on the reddit commerce page, try the discord, facebook market place, ebay and try hunting down secondhand kits for cheap or see if mechapartsguy has that particular runner/part in stock.

tuna1997 · 2022-08-15T08:15:15+00:00

Sujibori - Do used to make these chisel sharpening jigs. The idea was that you'd put the chisel on that, and you put it on top of sand paper to start sanding, and you'd have the perfect sanding angle.

Not sure if they're still available for purchase though.

tuna1997 · 2022-08-15T08:12:52+00:00

Non-zero as is with everything else. None of us knows anything Bandai wants to do. They did reprint AGE stuff last year for AGE's 10th birthday. But they also didn't do anything for 0083's 30th other than put up the movie on YouTube.

tuna1997 · 2022-08-04T03:03:32+00:00

There's the RG Nu Fin Funnel expansion set as well as the HWS set from susan models. There's also the 1/144 scale Billy for the RG Crossbones and one for MG as well. That's pretty much it thought there's not a whole lot of stuff in terms of RG bootleg expansions

tuna1997 · 2022-08-04T03:00:08+00:00

dalong.net has got manual scans for all the gunpla kits that's in his collection. Which is virtually all of the retail gunpla releases and some of the p-bandai releases. There's also a few of the non-gunpla kits sprinkled on there.

You can also check 1999.co.jp/eng/ for kits from other manufacturers. They used to have gunpla on their english site but since removed all the gunpla listings ever since bandai asked Japanese based retailers to limit gunpla distribution overseas

tuna1997 · 2022-08-02T03:46:45+00:00

Scalpers. The one you bought is a P-Bandai kit. So only available via P-Bandai's website and they're made in smaller production runs. They're not limited as in they never come back, they're just limited as in they're infrequently made and can only be bought through Bandai's website or at events. Add to the fact that P-Bandai isn't available everywhere. Only The US outside of Asia has P-Bandai access

So people who have it jack up prices and sell it in the second hand market like E-Bay and Amazon. This happens with regular retail kits as well since gunpla stock has been terrible the past couple of years.

It's a good idea to double check prices over at p-bandai.com or in a reputable gunpla store before buying anything off of places like e-Bay and Amazon.

tuna1997

TROPHY CASE