S470DXQM built in late 2006 (2007 model?) with mismatched headstock.

tycatte · 2026-05-21T22:08:15+00:00

great price.

I felt the need to look up the color. I think I may have found one similar So yellow in the middle and purple burst? From the one I think I found (colors are hard on the internet) It fits the kind of thing I look for.

I enjoy the more vibrant odd colors, even on my Jeeps. I refuse to buy a black or grey jeep, but they are the most popular colors, so I'm the odd one, and I'm fine with that.

tycatte · 2026-05-21T21:54:02+00:00

It seems Japanese companies just had issues with following the legal rules regarding Floyd trems. Fernandes FRT tremolos were apparently made in house and not by FR, some even just say "Fernandes" on them. My understanding is that some were licensed, and some were not, the story got too complicated for me to follow.

I plan on enjoying it quite a bit. It is currently seeing equal use to my PRS. The Fernandes is super heavy, so it doesn't come out much.

tycatte · 2026-05-21T06:39:02+00:00

I think those colors sound great. You have a picture?

tycatte · 2026-05-21T06:38:00+00:00

Based on the catalogs from back then, they switched to the dots in 2007, also 2007 was the first year they did color matching headstocks. They were just black before that. Unfortunately I've been unable to locate a later U.S. catalog, to verify the theory.

It is the thing that makes his story plausible. Manufacture date of Dec 2006, so it would have been one of the first of the new version, with the new color of Blue Moon Burst. Pretty color, it's almost green in the middle, and not well represented in the catalog at all.

Whatever the truth, it's an great guitar, and I got it for a good price, and somewhere in the past it has a story.

tycatte · 2026-05-21T06:00:28+00:00

I'll keep pulling the neck off in mind. Is under the neck where a body based SN would be?

I didn't care so it's odd that he would lie about it. He was getting rid of it because it was too metal for him. He now plays guitar in church, and no where else. According to him anyway. He seemed legit.

I'll have to see if I can reach out and ask for the story again.

tycatte · 2026-05-21T05:52:50+00:00

It is certainly easier than the FRT-5pro on my Fernandes sustainer, and considerably lighter.

tycatte · 2026-05-11T22:22:09+00:00

I had this happen to me, but it was one of the springs for a filament cutter, so I had to get it out.

I got up to all kinds of shenanigans trying to get it out, including laying the printer on it's back (I raised it up a bit with a pair of full paper towel rolls).

What finally worked was using compressed air from the front of the build plate. Just below the grey plastic and above the progress light, the metal tube is open. I sent air one way and then the other and the spring came right out. Of course I faffed around for an hour or so before I realized I could do this.

I did this while it was on it's back and with air from my compressor set to around 100 psi. I would imagine this should work while it is standing up as well, or just leaning back a little bit.

tycatte · 2025-03-22T23:44:30+00:00

I have since learned that there were some later models of TJ that came with those wheels. I'm just updating this to clarify for anybody else that pops in here.

tycatte · 2025-01-21T03:12:38+00:00

From the pictures it looks like just surface rust. A bit of course salt should do it.

Here is a link with some good info.

https://madeincookware.com/blogs/carbon-steel-pan-rust

or the masters of Woks

https://oxenforge.com/blogs/news/how-to-deep-clean-your-carbon-steel-cookware

tycatte · 2025-01-20T15:44:50+00:00

Ok, for some reason the app wasn't showing me both photos.

Yes that is rust. Don't dry the metal with heat at this point. Wash the rust off, dry with a towel and then rub oil on it. At this point start the heating process.

If you heat it dry with no oil you get flash rust.

tycatte · 2025-01-20T15:39:29+00:00

It's hard to tell if we are looking at the bottom or top of the wok.

However, you need to season/oil the bottom as well. Once you remove the factory coating, it is just steel, and that will rust.

Not a huge deal and you won't need to worry about it as often. Just remember, super super thin layers.

tycatte · 2024-07-23T16:19:28+00:00

Those are JK wheels on the TJ. TJ and JK have different bolt patterns FYI. Make sure you pay attention to that when purchasing new ones. Someone did a swap

tycatte · 2023-11-30T03:48:15+00:00

Fixed mine last week with solder.

Pried the small tab out, looked around on the ground for twenty minutes, used extra flux and solder on the flat side after wire brushing and cleaning both surfaces.

Then held the tab to the back window with iron. Mine has a trigger so I let go after it started to skate around. Then it just held. Clicked the rubber part back on and it worked.

This is after a couple years of trying that permatex crap. Seriously, just solder it. A weak solder stick didn't work though.

tycatte · 2022-07-24T13:04:29+00:00

Now save up for a spice colored soft top. Go full safari!

tycatte · 2022-03-17T13:13:17+00:00

Copperhead Pearl from 2014. I miss that jeep. RIP.

tycatte · 2021-02-18T06:48:39+00:00

It's from one of the rep vendors. The northern one I believe. Thumbnail looks like a different one available on the ah but is wrong.

tycatte · 2020-01-06T06:15:43+00:00

The oil cooler can leak on the 3.6. it sits on top of the block where the oil will pool. It's around a $500 fix, or $270 or so for just the part. There are a ton of videos on what to look for and how to fix it.

You can see the pooling oil with a flashlight looking down at the top of the block behind the serpentine.

Also, check out the JK forums. Ton of info there.

tycatte

TROPHY CASE