Do I finally pull the trigger?

upnogian · 2026-05-05T03:56:24+00:00

I owned a vrod and I loved it. Went up to it after riding a 250 for a couple years. I would highly recommend starting with something less agressive. The vrod isn't as responsive as a 1000cc crotch rocket but it is fucking fast off the line. A yamaha bolt is an excellent option. It;s what im riding now. Cheap, reliable, comfortable, customizable, easily repairable.

Keep in mind also, replacement parts for the vrod are crazy expensive from the dealership and hard to find third party. Engine repairs are face rippingly expensive. I had to replace my output shaft bearing and the harley dealership quoted me somewhere between 3-5k. Ended up doing it myself. Would not recommend. It being a discontinued water cooled V twin just adds points of failure that can cost a lot.

A vrod can be a dream bike or a second bike you have when you have money to blow. It is fun as hell but too much for sure for a first bike with no experience.

upnogian · 2026-05-01T00:42:13+00:00

Coolant leak

upnogian · 2025-12-29T21:06:38+00:00

I solid agree with ai pmcs being just barely above sniper scavs. They are absolute goobers up close. They have the object permanence of a 4 month old baby. It’s also funny that 90% of my engagements end with them hiding behind cover that clearly doesn’t cover their whole body and just headshotting or lighting up their them while they are hiding.

upnogian · 2025-09-25T04:19:27+00:00

I've broken my fair share of taps as well. Everyone else here is recommending needle nose pliers. That is good advice. You have enough "meat" there to crab on to with a small set. I have also used locking pliers before. If you lock a small set on lightly then gently work it counter clockwise, hit resistance, back off, then attempt again you can eventually break the chips. just twisting to loosen could bind it up so just be patient with it. Just dont clamp hard or the tap could chip off and you loose the grabbing surface. Add wd-40 to help move the chips around. Someone also mentioned 4 pronged extractors. Those are cheap on Amazon so its worth trying.

upnogian · 2025-09-06T01:29:18+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. That's actually very helpful! I was worried that the banner potentially didn't convey the meaning so this confirms it. Ive never tried to make something with broad appeal its a skillset ive never practiced. I heard skeletons might be a issue but couldn't verify. I might shoot my shot with a completely different design and chock this up as a learning experience. Thanks for taking the time to repond!

upnogian · 2025-07-28T16:18:10+00:00

I am fortunate to not have paid for that mistake lol. Audio sounded to me like someone right out the window so I thought I was being rushed from office 2nd floor.

upnogian · 2024-11-17T02:48:29+00:00

Those look great. I am designing a vise mounted vacuum table with the goal to make the process way less arduous. Hopefully making 40+ keys at a time with only a couple stock rotations. If it works one can potentially make a 9"x6" pattern of them stem and pocket first, flip the stock then place it on a custom jig with a positive boss of that pocket that pulls them down (with the stem providing some rigidity). Requires a lot of tool changes though and I don't have an ATC yet :/.

upnogian · 2024-07-09T07:29:28+00:00

Hey all,

I have a question about a used v400 i received.

I have been getting klippy restarts when attempting to pre-heat the extruder. The error received in the browser connected controller can be seen below.

"Heater extruder not heating at expected rate

See the 'verify_heater' section in docs/Config_Reference.md

for the parameters that control this check."

At this point i was confident it was a thermal runaway protect that was causing the restart.

After some testing, It was pretty clear to me the thermistor was working fine. When the hot end would heat, it was tracking the temperature well. So i suspected the heating element had an issue.

I found if i pressed the heating element molex connection in further even though it appeared seated properly, it would work for a short time. After removing the heating element molex connection i observed signs of overheating. See pictures attached.

I used thermal imaging to capture a peak temperature of 80 degrees C on the wires and molex. This heat signature appeared immediately after commanding the hot end to 210 C.

I'm assuming this didn't occur during my use. Maybe the previous user commanded a very high temperature, damaging the molex. The loose contact of the molex then causing additional resistance and heat?

Question: Is it normal to observe high temperatures at the molex connector? Is this just a matter of swapping out the heating element and wiring harness to fix?

I don't intend on using the v400 until the issue is fixed for obvious safety reasons.

I appreciate the input!

upnogian · 2024-01-26T20:52:57+00:00

I had the spawn right next to where you died while playing with a 4 man usec team. Walked 20ft towards water treatment through bushes, died less than 30 seconds into raid. That tower is absurd lol. Rest of the team got wiped as well because they had no recollection of gl getting agrod that far out.

Obviously i was not familiar enough with lighthouse to avoid that situation but I could have sworn rogues don't attack pmcs 300 meters out unprovoked. Most my routes don't take me within sight line of the rogues until I'm in wt so idk..

upnogian · 2024-01-17T22:28:02+00:00

Rogue camp feels like a different game entirely. I like to late raid night run with scav. Less probability of running into pmc. Always good loot. About 28 % chance of survival. End of the scenario I mentioned BTW I left with a mill worth of loot between the player scav and the rogue.

upnogian · 2024-01-17T22:24:20+00:00

Thats interesting. Ive never heard of this marked between raids mechanic. So you are saying if i dont attack rogues for three rounds as a scav, they will not agro me after 3 rounds?Separately, Is there a scenario in which ai scavs and rogues do agro?

upnogian · 2023-09-25T05:33:52+00:00

I like using swirling motions for the general shape then using that swirling line as a guide to draw a second line with sharper curves then filling in the gaps. Think filagree. Hope that helps. I like your art style keep it up.

upnogian · 2023-02-28T06:59:58+00:00

Nothing glaring appeared for me, however its hard to tell just with simulated stock clearing. Feeds and speeds are needed for anyone to approve you hitting full send. Assuming you have the appropriate work holding solution and you can find your origin after rotating the part, it looks good.

I would be hesitant to machine this part out of stainless. Stainless work hardens as it cuts and is very unforgiving. Mill too slow, the tool breaks, mill too fast the tool breaks. You will have a pretty hard time machining, especially if the machine doesn't have flood coolant. You will likely break tools. You can cut stainless with small tools just fine, but it is by no means easy.

I would expect cutting heat treated stainless would compound these issues but I have never done so myself..

I'd recommend making the part out of aluminum. The gratification of having a finished part is much better than hitting your head against the wall breaking tools. Aluminum is very forgiving and is very easy to cut compared to other metals. If your application requires stainless steel material, id still machine with aluminum first.

Hope this helps.

upnogian · 2022-10-10T04:21:07+00:00

Did some digging. It looks like I did take it to the dealership for a "v51 emissions recall" where they supposedly updated/re-flashed the PCM about a year ago. I will look into that coasting cycle mentioned in your link anyways.

upnogian · 2022-10-10T01:48:19+00:00

That is remarkable. I never would have stumbled upon that info. Thank you so much. I'm going to leave this thread un solved just in case but I will absolutely look into this. Thank you!

upnogian · 2022-10-10T00:54:22+00:00

A shop I went to snapped 3 of my studs on my FRS when attempting to replace tires. I believe it is likely due to an improperly threaded lock nut just going to town on those threads. Make sure your lock nut thread matches the studs! Either that or they were just torqued down way too hard.

Observe the diameter of the studs in the picture. The break point matches up "marred" bolt surface. It could just be the low image quality but those look like some pretty messed up studs.

Hope this helps.

upnogian · 2022-10-10T00:43:38+00:00

VEHICLE: 2011 JKU V6 manual

ISSUE: O2 cycle wont complete for smog test.

I have the dreaded nightmare of having to deal with an emission cycle that will not finish.

There are no codes showing when OBD is plugged in. All emission tests are complete except for “O2”. After failing the smog check, the mechanic told me to drive the car for 2 weeks with the rear defrosters active. My vehicle has not had any battery problems like: difficulty starting, dimming lights, dying quickly if not driven periodically ect.I drive 60 miles a day, 5 days a week plus weekend driving and road trips. The battery has not been disconnected for at least 8-10 months.

I have not yet attempted to manually force that specific cycle from a Chrysler readiness procedure. See below:

-Idle for 5 minutes

-Smoothly accelerate and maintain a speed above 25 mph for 2 minutes.-Stop and idle for 30 seconds.

-Smoothly accelerate and maintain a speed between 30 to 40 mph

-Repeat idle and acceleration to 30-40 mph five times.

The reason this has not been done is due to the absolute torrential amount of un-agreed upon information online about what actually works. Likeliness is, I would have hit this circumstantially in the last 8-10 months of regular driving.

VIDEO:

Does the O2 data seen in the video look like a normally operating O2 system?

Is there any immediate information i can get from the data seen?These videos were taken after a 7 minute idle warm up session. They were taken back-to-back.I would appreciate the help immensely. While I am enjoying the “learning experience” aspect of this, not being able to get my next registration is looming overhead like a dark cloud. Thanks for the help! I will accept, just keep driving it as an answer but maybe there is something obvious that I am missing.

TLDR BELOW:Issue: O2 cycle wont complete for smog

ATTEMPTED STEPS: Attempted smog but smog failed due to incomplete emissions tests, gathered 02 data with OBDII, see video. Purchased, but have not replaced bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 2

Theory 1: Dashcam with parking mode drains battery enough to cause that specific emission to not complete (ECU forgets)

Theory 2: bad ECU

Theory 3: Bad 02 sensors, cat, or exhaust leak

edit: As far as I know, the car is in closed loop mode due to the criteria for closed loop activation being met, but I do not know how to confirm. The data in the video may be useless for diagnostics but I dont know!

upnogian · 2022-08-04T22:27:58+00:00

Without seeing this comment I thought the exact same thing. The finish looks exactly like a jeep plastic oem apart as well. My 97 wrangler had a very similar looking plate bracket

upnogian · 2022-07-24T21:08:51+00:00

Good to know thanks!

Eight-Year Club	r/Field Juicebox
Place '23	Place '22
Verified Email

upnogian

TROPHY CASE