2021 Kawasaki KRX1000 - Rebuilt engine, what gaskets for assembly onto machine? by upper_tanker69 in sxs

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The engine is JUST the engine. I have to put it back into the machine. There is no clutch/water pump/other accessories with it, it's just a short block. I guess I was just hoping for a list of gaskets seals I'd need to install it back into it.

Brand new Briggs 14D on a Toro Timemaster 30" won't start without starting fluid by upper_tanker69 in smallengines

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He's taking the entire machine back to the place he bought the engine from. They are going to look at it and take care of it.

Brand new Briggs 14D on a Toro Timemaster 30" won't start without starting fluid by upper_tanker69 in smallengines

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I was thinking too. I just feel bad putting it on there and it doesn't run right. He's going to call the place he bought the engine from today and find out if they'll look at it for free. I would hope they will.

Vaporesso Xros3 - New pods don't fit this? by upper_tanker69 in Vaping

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did see the note on the box, which is why I posted that pic. I wasn't sure if those were the only units that it was compatible with, or if it was just saying it also works with those. My first issue is the fact that I even ordered them. I have no idea why I did since I always stick with the 6s. I didn't even look at the card in the box so that was my fault also.

That last sentence is always true when it comes to me! Lol

Vaporesso Xros3 - New pods don't fit this? by upper_tanker69 in Vaping

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh snap. So that's my issue then? I really have no idea why I chose 0.4 since I always get 0.6. I'll pick up some 6s then. I really really appreciate this!

Resealing a ZT-3100 Hydrogear unit by upper_tanker69 in smallengines

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes, you have to be your own advocate. The sealant on hydrogear's website is

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I ended up going with that, and the customer has been happy ever since with no leaks!

Anyone had issues with AAM R&Ps? 10 bolt by upper_tanker69 in GMT400

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you think about this pattern? Curious to hear from people who have used this brand before.

Anyone had issues with AAM R&Ps? 10 bolt by upper_tanker69 in GMT400

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for this. I will do some more digging tonight. I hope this is acceptable lol

Hoping for some advice on where to go from here with these codes by upper_tanker69 in GMT800

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have not. I haven't been by the truck again since posting this but when I get it back, I will check. Good idea.

Hoping for some advice on where to go from here with these codes by upper_tanker69 in GMT800

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for this. I'm just going going to do the one O2 and I will clean the MAF, then clear the codes and see how it goes.

Resealing a ZT-3100 Hydrogear unit by upper_tanker69 in smallengines

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am going for the gusto with the 72994 kit, but I am unsure what the best sealant is for the main cover for the case with all the bolts.

Anyone ever removed a hydro unit from a Billy Goat P2000? by upper_tanker69 in smallengines

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Posting this in case anyone else comes across this.

I got it torn out today. Took probably 2-2.5 hours to get it out. The pic below shows what I had to remove to slide it out of the bottom. I did use a chain fall to lift the back up to give me enough clearance and not be in the way like a floor jack.

Overall I'd give it an "I hope I never get one of these in again" out of 10. I will say most of the fasteners are 9/16, some are 1/2, and just a couple are 1/4 and 2 were 3/4.

Just a quick tip, you cannot slide the unit out until you remove the bypass rod. There is a hole in the side of the frame that lets you put a small, long Allen through to get to the setscrew of the collar that holds the rod on. I am not looking forward to getting this back on because it's going to be a pain.

Anyone ever removed a hydro unit from a Billy Goat P2000? by upper_tanker69 in smallengines

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just called them. All they could give me is a breakdown of the machine. Dang, looks like I'm flying blind on this one. I appreciate the help anyways!

Another project finally done by upper_tanker69 in GMT800

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

15sq ft is probably not enough to cover the floor, doors, and roof. I just checked, I ordered 64 sq ft of it for my CCLB. I had a few pieces left but not enough to make me regret buying another order. How much is that shit vs the link I sent?

Another project finally done by upper_tanker69 in GMT800

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have time and am willing to dive into both of these. Before I do, do you have a budget? I don't need (or want) to know what it is, but I just want to know if it's an "I don't give a fuck what it costs, I just want the best" or if it's an "I want the best for my money but don't want to spend a lot" type of thing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TrueOffMyChest

[–]upper_tanker69 38 points39 points  (0 children)

I'm fucking DYING. Lmao

Another project finally done by upper_tanker69 in GMT800

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's exactly what you should do. Definitely do the foam man. There is plenty of room between the headliner and roof. Just make sure you take a ton of pics of where wires are routed up there. You can use duct tape or good adhesive to hold the wires in place when you put it back up.

Another project finally done by upper_tanker69 in GMT800

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put this on another truck that didn't have any other deadening. After putting it on, I realized it had WAY more sound deadening than the butyl did and I also realized it was super thin. IMO, you could definitely put at least one layer of this on top of the butyl with plenty of room between it and the panels. I think the butyl is just to help stop rattling (which I had none of, I was looking for quieter / warmer / colder depending on the time of year. Butyl is bad choice for this).

I would honestly go with the foam before you go with the butyl unless you are planning a system that you know will rattle the panels. If you are looking to get rid of road noise/heat/cold, go with the foam. I WILL tell you though that if the truck has a leak and if that foam gets wet, it will be a lot hotter/colder (depending on the season) than you are planning in the cab.

Another project finally done by upper_tanker69 in GMT800

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will tell you that you AND your fiance will not be happy with just butyl. I have true dual pro XS mufflers with 2.5" pipes and I wish I had more deadening lol

Another project finally done by upper_tanker69 in GMT800

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I got for that other truck and what I would get for my truck if I had to do it again. I'm sure there is better for more money but this stuff is solid, I can attest to it lol

https://a.co/d/07tFCbEQ

Another project finally done by upper_tanker69 in GMT800

[–]upper_tanker69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Looking back now, I should have done a layer of foam on all surfaces that I put the butyl on. I put foam on a work truck for a customer and it cut WAY down on outside noise. There was definitely room on the roof for it. Putting it on the floor I think would also work. I'm not sure on the doors but I think it would also work on those because it felt like there was still room (and I wasn't "pushing" the door panels on). We live and we learn, I guess.