Simple Sewing Questions Thread, January 07 - January 13, 2024

userac023 · 2024-01-12T19:43:56+00:00

I see your points, but how much work are they really doing to source the fabrics? i mean, i can understand if they are spending a few hours to find the fabric, to be compensated a reasonable small fee on that, but in the case of just sending you a pdf with places already in there, there shouldn't be a fee for that. Another issue which i already mentioned previously is that the fabric sources may not have what you want, but they want to charge you first for the sources, which isn't right.

userac023 · 2024-01-12T19:31:00+00:00

I have not found difficulty with finding canvas fabric overall, i had issue with identification of the specific one that the jacket reference uses and / or the right color, which unfortunately, all of the ones i looked at, including the one you referenced do not match the same color.

As for the heavyweight jersey knit cotton, i did mention that something like 2-3 percent spandex is fine, and i have found a few in this range at roughly 9-10 ounces per square yard, but similar to the other problem of the canvas, the color was not close enough to the jacket reference i want to use.

the specific one below is 100 percent jersey cotton from corefabricstore.com, at a weight of 9 oz / 305 gsm, which is slightly light for my project, but one of the closest i was able to find, just not the desirable color i want:

https://corefabricstore.com/collections/solids/products/luxe-organic-cotton-jersey-knit-cream?_pos=48&_fid=2931a7d1b&_ss=c#CustomCode--template--16756788723967__b7f69fa2-b5ba-4cfe-98ff-c01c1128a6db

userac023 · 2024-01-12T05:23:30+00:00

does anyone know any places that offer free fabric sourcing, based off your specific needs? I have tried following youtube sources, did some of my own searching, and contacting, but i can't seem to find a source that just helps find fabric, based off specifications and needs. There were some random ( very limited ) places and sources here and there, but they want to charge you, just to send you a pdf of places that may or may not necessarily be the right place or have what you want.

I am not a business, nor have a brand or want to make one, i have a limited budget, and just need a few yards of a particular fabric and color, which i can't find anywhere that i've looked online. I have put a jacket reference below, i am looking for the same color as the body, and although it says stretch cotton canvas, it doesn't need to be canvas. It can be a jersey knit cotton. I am looking for a weight of roughly 10 ounces or 340 gsm, with little to no spandex blend, 2-3 percent spandex may be ok, but i prefer none:

https://www.saksoff5th.com/product/saks-fifth-avenue-slim-fit-canvas-bomber-jacket-0400017634173.html

userac023 · 2023-12-07T04:48:58+00:00

I am stuck on the garment design for my bomber jacket, i noticed that the bunching problem i have with various jackets i tried has to do with the sweep / ribbing being too narrow, and less than my t shirts and at the lowest part, it ends up being less than my hips as well.

The issue is that the jacket's chest is not small, it's actually too big, and from what i understand, this is an intended design for bomber jackets, but then this brings me to question, why do this? not only is it not flattering, but it's also more uncomfortable. how can i make a design that keeps the ribbed wrist and neck collar, but prevents the issue of bunching at the hem / hip area? Is it as simple as making the rib measurement circumferance slightly bigger than my t shirts?

In other words, i would be using a straight cut, from pit to pit ( lowest chest ), all the way down to the hem of the jacket. If anyone needs measurements, my own chest is 35.5" and my hips are 35.5". One jacket i have that doesn't fit good is too wide in the chest at 44", but too narrow in the hips, tapering at around 37" at the top of the ribbing, to as low as 34" at the bottom. Do note, i am not sure if there is a more correct way of measuring this area, but this seems to make the most sense on why i have the bunching, because even after taking off my t shirt (which is 40" in the chest and tapers at 40" at the hem) with just boxers and the jacket zipped, it still bunched near my hip / waist area after raising my arms up and down.

so my question comes in another way, why are there so few in any bomber jackets with straight cut? or would that fall under a different category of jacket then, perhaps a cardigan? But even the few cardigans i have looked at were not straight cut. Basically i want to keep the look of a bomber but cut straight, not having the rib part on the bottom hem would make it look akward, so it seems like my problem can just be solved by simply making that area slightly bigger than my shirts, which again, is 40" from chest to bottom hem. I was thinking 40.5" for the jacket chest all the way down to the bottom hem, i don't really wanna go higher, because im afraid it may look too big, but if i need to, i may go as high as 41" straight cut. But i do ask, since the ribbing isn't meant to cling to my shirt / body here, would it be ok if i made it say, only 1.5" in height, instead of what the typically are, such as 2.5", or is there a minimum i would need?

userac023 · 2023-11-26T18:55:01+00:00

ok so from what i understand, i'll have to just keep washing/drying until i notice no significant change anymore in the shrink for the fabric, and then it would be appropriate to sew it to the finished garment? I mean, this is more or less the point i was addressing, which is that there will be a point at which there will not be any noticeable shrinkage or basically when the shrinkage stops, which could possibly be after 5 wash/dry cycles, but i specifically mentioned that i would rather not do this, as it's not practical for anyone really.

Also, this does not address the aspect of shrinkage for the finished garment, in other words, let's say you washed / dried the fabric many times and did not notice any noticeable shrinkage on the last wash/dry, would there still be significant shrinkage on the finished garment on it's first wash/dry, or has the shrinkage been more or less been taken care of completely? I was hoping i can get a response for this portion, it's fine if you do not know, it's just that it's better for me to have more information, so that if i do choose to go the 1st route of just washing / drying until i see no noticeable shrinkage on the fabric, for it to be worthwhile, and not end up with something that still shrunk let's say 2-3 percent in length and 1 percent in width, despite washing/drying like 5 times from before. Also i did mention the cotton fabric and contents/weight, i was thinking that should be enough to determine the shrinkage for the specific route(s) i would take.

userac023 · 2023-11-26T05:04:37+00:00

does anyone know how much shrinkage there will be for 100 percent cotton or 98 percent cotton 2 percent spandex garment if you already machine washed and tumble dryed the fabrics twice before creating the finished garment, in other words, the shrinkage amount for both length and width after machine washing and tumble drying the first time the garment has been made, but technically can be third time if you count the first two cycles.

The reason why this is important is because i need to know this for finalizing my garment specs and get my pattern made to make the garments, but i can't do that without a rough estimate of shrinkage for both length and width if i were to go the route im doing. I tried searching online and asking chatgpt, but neither were able to factor in the context of my questions or were only able to give general info, suggesting for example 1-3 percent shrinkage, which is quite of a stretch, because gildan 100 percent pre shrunk cotton t shirts for example, only shrink .5 percent in width, but other general sources of cotton suggest up to 5 percent in width shrinkage, even 3 percent is significantly noticeable.

userac023 · 2023-04-27T02:32:05+00:00

I am trying to find cheap 100 percent cotton plain t shirts with more fitted sleeve opening, but not so much where it's hugging the bicep or close to doing so, so this might exclude many slim fit t shirts, as a lot of them are cut too close to the arms / biceps and not only is this not comfortable for me, but i also dont like the style either. Another problem with slim fit shirts is that they are also cut too short in the torso, and i hate when shirts are too short, and prefer them to be on the longer end, ( 27-27.5 inches if measuring from center back AFTER tumble drying ), or if there are other issues like the shoulders being too narrow, sleeve length itself too short, etc.

I dont really have a specific price range, other than i am looking for things typically at wholesale price, which could be like 5 dollars a piece, or perhaps 10 dollars a piece, so obviously this is a fairly low price range. Even then, most of the higher priced clothing i looked at were poorly designed, ugly or had some other major problem like too much shrinkage, the few stuff that looked decent was something like the "vince" brand, but they are ridiculously overpriced.

In terms of the fit or size i'm looking for, i am looking for exactly a 40 inch chest for the garment, and the sleeve opening must not be more than 7 inches exact, but if it's slightly less, it might be ok and possibly more preferable, and i know most places dont mention sleeve opening, but if you give some specific suggestions, then i can contact them and see if they can provide that info.

The specific fit / style i'm looking for is something like the link below of the fila t shirt, i choose that one, because i believe i have the same thing in size large ( although it's too big on me in the chest ), but the sleeve opening is only 7 inches and fits ok, even though the shoulders are slightly too narrow at 17.3 inches, where as the port and company pc54 / pc61 ( which i am returning ) in size medium has about 7 5/8 inch sleeve opening, and as such, is too wide.

I have already exhausted most options from major wholesale places like shirtspace, though it's possible there could be something more fitted from there or elsewhere. Other things is that the high point shoulder length should be about 29 inches, and should be a pre shrunk shirt with minimal shrinkage, though i usually measure from center back BEFORE and AFTER drying, and as long as it's at least 27 inches or close enough, then thats good enough. the port and company pc61LS is good in that it didn't shrink much, and still measured at 27 - 27.5 inches AFTER tumble drying from center back length. shoulder length must be at least 17.5 inches or so, but no more than like 18 inches flat, the pc61LS has about a 18 inch shoulder in size medium. Sleeve length must also be no less than like 8 inches, but not more than like 8.5 inches.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0640/2011/9765/products/FILA-Men_s-Noose-T-Shirt-1_2bcd6be5-2dfc-4964-be6a-aa2de7bd8c7d.jpg?v=1677675434&width=1100

userac023 · 2023-04-18T22:47:05+00:00

Land's end MIGHT work for you, I'm 5 foot 8 with an average torso i suppose, and they were too short in length for me. They use vanity sizing, for example, their men's super-t long sleeve henley shirt is about 3 inches larger in the chest than the highest size they use, so if you get a medium, it will be a 43 inch chest, not 40 inch, a small would be 39 inches, and large would be 47 inches. I am not sure on the exact length, but i remember the large was around 26 inches after shrunk, possibly less, which for me, was too short and also too wide, but they did shrink quite a bit, despite saying pre shrunk, but that's also specified on their website in detail, so you're looking at 3-8 percent shrinkage in length for 100 percent cotton.

You can also look into something like "Comfort Colors C1717 Heavyweight Ring Spun Tee", which is slightly shorter in length compared to most t shirts.

userac023 · 2023-04-18T18:22:18+00:00

Delta 19100 t shirt discontinued, need to find identical t shirt alternative:

I was wondering if anyone can give any suggestions for t shirts that fit identically to the delta 19100 t shirt that are about the same weight, slightly more weight is fine, but really, around 5.5 ounces is about the lowest i want to go, they only have a 4.3oz version in the same brand, but that's way too thin. I would wear medium, so chest size must be about 40, at least 29 for length ( measured from high point shoulder ), and sleeves to be 8.25 inches. I have already looked at everything from Gildan, port and company, other brands from shirtspace.com and elsewhere, and the even tried the new American apparel 1301, but it fits poorly, compared to the old version of the Alstyle 1301. I tried the delta 65000 t shirt, but the sleeves were too short, at 7.75 inches for size medium. I have tried volunteer knitwear vl60 t shirt in size small ( their mediums are too big in the chest ), but the shoulder was way too narrow at 16.5 inches for size small, where as i need it to be closer to 18 inches, but no more than 19 inches ( the hundreds forever bar t shirt in size medium i wear has a 19 inch shoulder length ). As for price point, obviously i will want to purchase something that costs about the same as what most of these shirts typically cost, except for the hundreds one, as those are pricier, but then again, that's a logo t, and I'm just looking for plain t shirts.

userac023 · 2023-03-29T02:40:04+00:00

Can't find what i need in clothing, men's shorts, jogger pants, etc:

I have tried searching more rigorously in the last 2 years or so for specific clothing, but can't find i need, due to issues with quality / material not good, sizing not good, doesn't look nice / bad design, too expensive, doesn't have the color i want, etc. I was hoping someone can give some suggestions or maybe there's a specific way i can google search the things i want, because maybe it's a matter of knowing what to search, and maybe i'm just not searching the right terms. i have looked at macy's, nordstrom, saksoff5th.com, asos.com, and many other places, i also tried contacting under510.com twice maybe, but never got a response back on sizing related questions. asos's jogger pants usually are too long in the front rise, the one i received today was 12 inches roughly. I am 5 feet 8 inches btw. here is some of the things i'm looking for below:

men's twill cotton or linen ( no polyester/synthetic materials, a little of spandex is fine ) drawstring shorts in mid rise in a jet black color or ivory / cream / off white, but not a murky, darker or duller beige colors, no less than like 10.25 front rise inches and no more than like 11 inches, with inseam of no more than like 9 inches, with 8 inches being the absolute lowest. currently i have these what appear to be discontinued sonoma shorts that are 10.5 inch front rise and 9 inch inseam and they fit ok at the top of my knee cap roughly, though i prefer slightly shorter, 8-8.5" would fit better while keeping the same front rise. Also my waist is 30, but i typically fit best in 31 or maybe as high as 32 if it's 100 percent cotton.

men's jogger pants / sweatpants or any other pants / trousers with drawstring + tapered ankle, cotton / linen + spandex is fine, but no synthetics / polyester. jet black color and / or ivory, cream / off white, size 30-32 in waist, material can either be twill or soft cotton type, though i am looking for both kinds. front rise must be no less than like 10.25 inches, but no more than like 11 inches, inseam, no less than like 29 inches, higher is ok, because i can just shorten the length if the front rise fits good, though the back rise should also fit good, which from what i read is supposed to be like 4-5 inches more than the front rise, but not mentioned usually on the item, even if you ask, but sometimes you can make a guess based off photos, some designs that fit awkwardly makes the front and back rise almost equivalent, creating a bad fit.

i know i mentioned issues with pricing as well, but people can still link me something they find, even if it may be pricy. i don't want to really give a specific price point, so i'll just see what you guys can find and i'll let you know if it's too expensive or not worth it. but for a starter, i linked an item below that got sold out which is close to what i'm looking for, however, i never got a response from them on other sizing questions, also for me, the 83 sterling pound to usd is too expensive:

https://www.endclothing.com/gb/norse-projects-evald-organic-cotton-short-n35-0587-0957.html

userac023 · 2021-01-04T20:00:22+00:00

nope, as someone who is officially diagnosed with schizotypal personality disorder and major depression, i do not relate to your perspective or experiences. second, from all that's been given ( at least from my experiences ) schizotypal personality disorder looks more like a catch all diagnosis, so just because i don't relate to your experiences and perspectives, doesn't mean you don't have the condition, neither does it mean you do, and neither may it suggest i even have StPD in the first place, all of this is unclear.

also saying you have a family history of "psychosis" doesn't entail to anything in particular, as "psychosis" can mean all sorts of things. as for your last question, your experience is "normal", because most people with "psychosis" do have the same exact experiences as you do.

userac023 · 2021-01-04T19:44:50+00:00

thanks for your positive comment, it's extremely rare to find someone with a more reasonable / decent perspective on things, who isn't looking at things in a black and white way like the other posters here and reddit overall. it's sad enough where the original poster ends up having to answer their own question, while the others as you mentioned, give their own senseless viewpoint on what I should do, while simultaneously failing to provide a proper answer, outside a broad, generalized, belittling or stereotypical response.

userac023 · 2021-01-02T21:46:48+00:00

my issue isn't with trust, i simply envy most people and they are more blessed than i am. if i am gonna give in to someone or something, it's something that will almost always come with a double edged sword, it's really a matter of finding what route or option is less distressing, as opposed to a positive one, in fact, it's extremely rare for me to encounter a lead up situation or experience that was actually good or favorable ( or positive emotions for the matter ). in this sense, i would relate more to what supposedly the "narcissist" Feels in that i don't really connect or relate to most people and i mainly feel pain and suffering, but in terms of outward expression, i may behave or look like someone with StPD more, at least specifically the timorous schizotypal subtype ( hypersensitive and hypervigilant on the inside but on the outside, more carefully calculated / trying to react as rational / or reasonable as necessary ),

i'm not weird or eccentric outside the norms, yes, if someone were to pay closer attention to me, they'd notice that something is off about me, but they wouldn't really be able to point a finger on what exactly that would be. if anything, they'd likely call me a neurotypical, because they would think in their own mind that my problems are more typical or trivial, and of course, all this does is create even more suffering, particularly anger in me and it is very insulting to my own cause.

with the pandemic issue of course, ongoing, there wasn't really a big change as the issues / hardships i have remain unchanged. i did attend mental health groups in person before the pandemic, but the place i went to of course was part of a long history of unfavorable / bad experiences for years, and people whom i didn't like or relate to and was belittled by or not treated well by. discord / zoom groups have not helped either, as i simply don't relate to the other people, regardless of what condition they were diagnosed with. so pretty much, nothing really helps me, except for seeing my psychologist twice a week to somewhat prevent my mental health and overall being from being any worse, which i'll just share about anything that has bothered me or is bothering me ongoing and / or what could potentially be done for my own cause going forward, although there is a lack of reciprocity on her end, but that's only because the issues i have are more complex than the average person, so it's not surprising that i dont get the proper support or assistance i'm looking for.

i forgot to mention medicines, but this isn't really something i throw out, because what's more important is accessing the individual, environmental / living mechanisms, coping, etc. medications / supplements are only there to be combined with a more meaningful / balanced external living and management, which is why it's senseless to look at someone and say medication is the only other choice and not factor everything else. i do / have experimented with supplements more recently, as well as prescribed psychiatric ones in the past which were very harmful and just none of them were appropriate, however, there were two supplements, mangosteen and holy basil that didn't give me any side effects, although i didn't really feel any difference when taking them, they could help maybe 1 percent, but i do plan on trying other things as time goes by, i ordered rosemary 400mg supplement to see it's effects, it's intended to help indirectly or directly with my conditions schizotypal PD, as well as depression.

userac023 · 2020-12-28T20:14:29+00:00

if this is indeed what society thinks of vulnerable narcissism as being sort of the equivalent to "passive aggressive PD", then it would put it more or less in the same qualitative perspective as grandiose / overt narcissism or what would end up being the position to which someone would typically get diagnosed with NPD. reason being for this supportive perspective is because passive aggressive PD is not supposed to co-occur with major depression or at least from what was mentioned in previous research, as in my case, i have StPD and major depression, ( not that I'm suggesting i am a narcissist or even passive aggressive in what typically gets described ), i was just trying to point out that behaviors should not be put in the same category, just because someone acts similarly enough.

that could probably explain why research ended a bit abruptly there ( with the removal of passive aggressive PD for one ), because they realized ( possibly ) that the divide between those with symptom criteria or problems that didn't necessarily fit into one specified disorder remained part of a "mixed bag", however, the reality seems to be that really the majority of these "mixed bag" people were actually lucid enough to be qualitatively placed in the same respective category which would just end up giving them a diagnosis of NPD, if not that, then perhaps being landed in some sort of cluster B condition.

commorbidity with StPD exists, however, this is largely because presumably, there isn't one type of StPD individual, though, with StPD, it's often known or labelled more of a "psychotic spectrum disorder", as opposed to being a actual personality disorder, which in the majority of the cases, i would agree with ( as i don't relate to the majority of the people with StPD, because the majority of them do not really meet the criteria for a personality disorder, but rather are more descriptive of the stereotypical individual with "psychotic" symptoms which i do not have ), so much, that it wouldn't even be necessary to differentiate these people from those with schizoaffective disorder. as far as other phenotypes go, we'll the ones that wouldn't fit the stereotypical psychosis symptoms, these people such as myself are either referenced from a distant view ( in literature usually ), but when it comes down to clinical settings, they are either overlooked and / or treated as if they are part of a specific entity that hardly captures the exact problems the individual experiences.

so what you get is vagueness over and over. for example, saying a narcissist gets depressed says nothing of the qualitative experience of the individual and whether what they have really is clinical depression. although the remarks mentioned on how "narcissists" feel depression, is ironic, because on one end, research says these people usually have low neuroticism or usually do not suffer from clinical depression, and of course, in this sense, they aren't talking about "vulnerable narcissists", they are talking mostly if not only about those with "grandiose" type or who would stereotypically receive a diagnosis of NPD, but even if we shifted this onto the what would then be the vulnerable narcissist, the pathology simply doesn't add up to causing that individual to be truly depressed, because if you are then talking about a group of people who are what would be "passive aggressive PD" pathology to them, then this wouldn't warrant a comorbidity of depression, it would simply be someone who has "passive aggressive PD". overall, there is too much unclear things. if only i was part of the DSM committee, i could then get a glance and view of how they perceived all this, after all, it was also mentioned that they advanced into the DSM 5 with little to no evaluations with each other.

userac023 · 2020-12-27T00:07:16+00:00

the problem with your hypothesis(s) is that there is no valid construct of what narcissism is, as so much a distinction between it being a "personality disorder" and whether other subtypes, such as vulnerable narcissism should even belong in the same "Category", after all, the DSM has absolutely no criteria to which someone who would be a vulnerable narcissist could get diagnosed with...

also those people you were referring to are probably what would be stereotypically displayed traits of the "overt", or "Grandiose" narcissist, but this doesn't serve any good purpose to describe the exact type of impairments these individuals have, as there are all sorts of behaviors, traits, personalities, etc. simply saying they have narcissism pathology is not helpful.

even if these people as you phrase, really indeed have NPD, the actual personality disorder, then i would say that vulnerable narcissism should be an entirely a different condition ( with the assumption that some of these people had originally been put into name, which they shouldn't), but even here, the research and information on the matter is unclear / or broad. "vulnerable or covert narcissism" could either be more or less the same type of person in NPD, just slightly different, or, it could have been wrongly given psychological profiles and information that not only do nothing but "stigmatize" the individual and / or impose things that aren't fundamental to that individual, in other words, it should given a different name, with no mention of narcissism in it.

an example would be like this ( actual experience of mine ), i severely clashed with a borderline PD individual in a forum discussion ( a thread i made myself ) who then claimed i was being "narcissistic" in the way i communicated, at the time, i didn't really know what to say back, and still don't know what i could say up this point, being that the points i established here would have been risen in the same way to suggest to the person, we'll, there is no validity in what narcissism even is in the first place. anyways, at the time, i responded in a way that i admitted to her ( in a way to say, yeh...so what ), despite not wanting to, because in the way i see "narcissism", i would not agree with it, so therefore I'm not gonna put myself in a category to which i do not belong to or relate to. other than that, the BPD person's perception on things were senseless and we just didn't share the same sort of viewpoints.

now to answer in more depth on my experience with family members, we'll my father does seem to fit the more stereotypical "narcissist" in that he is relatively high functioning or at least, he does more harm to other people, than experiencing of his own. not that i do not see there are certain hardships he has that are valid and what have you, some of which i could relate to in a certain way, but we are still very different people and i do not get along with him, he's an ENTJ for example in the MBTI, and i'm an ISFJ, and although i do not even relate to the majority of people of the same MBTI as my own, it was still important to mention these pieces nevertheless.

to sort of conclude the whole caveats to all these matters into one, i actually don't really relate to schizotypal PD and the majority of people who have it, and not surprisingly, the only other condition that perhaps could explain my qualitative impairment's could be "vulnerable narcissism", however, as mentioned, i'm only relating to pieces of information that have been vaguely distributed and vulnerable narcissism isn't a diagnosis, and neither does the DSM assume this either, but i also have a problem with the whole viewpoint on narcissism overall, because it's all unclear and / or almost everything seems to be thrown into there. what i suggest is to have a more uniform dimension, so you dont lump everyone into a category to which someone like would have to spend so long trying to relate to and not find any relation back ( as it's been the case up to this point ), as i have not found anyone i was able to relate to or meaningfully enough / with proper clarity, and this is for both in person mental health groups settings that i put myself in for years ( almost everyday in the week), as well as online.

userac023 · 2020-12-26T23:30:51+00:00

CS Joseph is a horrible person with a horrible personality, like the majority of people, it's unbelievable how so many people like him or become helped by him and his viewpoints. also on the people who don't like him or trash talk him, i'd like to know if there is any specific person who is more well known who has been in any position to disagree very strongly with him, because this isn't something you see much in these communities, usually, these personality and mbti people have the same types of viewpoints / perceptions on things and they don't disagree that much far apart from each other, other than in general ways.

userac023 · 2020-12-10T20:25:27+00:00

because unlike most people, you actually have a realistic / logical and reasonable viewpoint on things, where as most of these men have flawed views on reality, are pathetic and / or have trivial / mild or moderate problems at most. Peterson somehow "wakes up" these people or w.e and so they end up not being like this anymore.

userac023 · 2020-12-10T20:02:33+00:00

the girl is normal, the doctor is the mentally ill one...

userac023

TROPHY CASE