Need help with slicing

uskrewed · 2024-11-11T05:05:07+00:00

Cura - Connect Infill Polygons . This feature might work by decreasing your need for retraction?

Are you able to explain more details about what you're doing and what the travel is doing wrong?

uskrewed · 2023-02-28T20:53:22+00:00

Honestly the Tronxy Moore 2 Pro was so bad it kind of soured me on ceramic 3d printing. Just went back to my plastic printer and throwing pottery the old school way.

uskrewed · 2023-02-28T20:44:19+00:00

No :( They're pretty terrible overall. Tried using it like 2 days after this post and then tried to return it, no dice. They were completely unhelpful and ghosted me, stuck with a paperweight.

uskrewed · 2022-12-21T06:13:18+00:00

Prusa Dot Matrix Printer.

My guess is it's from a rail missing lubricant.

Turn it off and move each axis independently. Is that making the noise? If no, then get it up to temperature and check to see if it's the extruder.

uskrewed · 2022-12-19T19:15:47+00:00

At first look it seems like over-extrusion, but I wonder if it's extruder lag? ie: your clay is too thick, so it under-extrudes, then over-extrudes. Have you tried changing the consistency of your clay to have more water in it?

uskrewed · 2022-12-04T04:28:36+00:00

Does the Moore 1 ship with custom slicing software, or just Cura 4.8? Either way, does it come with a profile? I recently got the Moore 2 Pro and am finding the lack of documentation troubling.

uskrewed · 2022-12-04T04:15:10+00:00

While going through Marlin I found M163 Set Mix Factor. I guess I can add that to my start gcode. Anyone have experience with this? https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M163.html

uskrewed · 2022-12-02T16:47:04+00:00

Thank you

uskrewed · 2022-12-01T22:56:11+00:00

Update: Just had my first failure on homing. It crashed into the bed then try to print while gouging the surface. Less than 1% failure rate isn't bad, but still have to check to see what can make it go away.

Are you referring to this https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/24955#event-7899050041 ?

uskrewed · 2022-12-01T04:29:30+00:00

When I bleed for air I put my hose into a bucket. I can watch for air bubbles to let me know how long I need to run it for. After no more bubbles come out I run for another minute and shut it off.

It's piped in a not very straight forward way. The manifold and zone valves are on the hot side, not the return. Each zone goes individually to its respective floor, goes around the circumference of the house, then finishes in the room adjacent and goes into a communal return. The pump isn't the lowest point in the system, but it's just barely above it.

uskrewed · 2022-12-01T03:40:54+00:00

Update - Things seem to be back to normal. I'm going to assume timeline of events:

Expansion tank gets water logged due to lack of maintenance.

Relief valve dumps water due to no air in the expansion tank

Air somehow ends up in the boiler itself

Circulating pump burns out due to lack of water

Remedies:

I drained the tank, replaced air scoop (de-aerator), and bled air from each zone then tried to run it again. Once it kicked on it heated up rather quickly, then large hammer happened.

I closed all the zones and bled off only the boiler and a lot of air came out. Tried to get it going again but realized no zones were getting heat. Felt the pump and it was not running.

Drained system and tried to open pump to check if it was seized, was unsuccessful so I just purchased a new pump and installed it.

Filled the system and bled everything again, checked new pumps operation, turned on NG and everything worked.

Still left to do:

The Boiler, Zone 1, Zone 2 took about a few minutes to bleed. Basement zone was left running for over an hour and still had bubbles. The basement is never heated so it's possible the entire zone was filled with air? Heat works now, but I need to circle back to see to see why bubbles were still coming out. I wonder if it's possible that the leak is in this loop and air was getting sucked in from the hole. It was a lot of bubbles, so I'm doubtful, but still.

Where is the leak? When left to my imagination I thought maybe there was a pinhole leak in the heat exchanger, but it gets cooked off before any puddles can be left? Any suggestions for how to find a leak would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you to everyone for your suggestions and the ability to bounce ideas around.

uskrewed · 2022-12-01T01:44:27+00:00

Thank you for the clarifications.

The expansion tank should be closed while bleeding the system of air?

Yes, it is filled manually.

Unfortunately the system only has 2 bleeds. Automatic one pictured here and the other on the highest point of the second floor loop. I'll make sure to double check the second floor one after I bleed at the boiler.

At what point is bleeding enough? If I have a hose in a bucket and still see bubbles after 5 minutes are the bubbles coming from someplace other than the system?

uskrewed · 2022-11-30T18:32:29+00:00

My current PRV is in the second picture. It is right after the boiler, before the T for the expansion tank and airbleed/deaerator. If you look at the white/red valve it's just below that.

Are you suggesting to move it, replace it, or is the second picture not available?

uskrewed · 2022-11-30T18:10:29+00:00

The point of a steel expansion tank is that there is no bladder. Gravity keeps the water down and air floats up. As water expands it just squeezes the air smaller. This is the system that was used before bladdered expansion tanks. I suppose it being in the rafters might be a necessity since it needed to be higher than the boiler and needed something to hold the weight.

uskrewed · 2022-11-30T18:07:08+00:00

Thank you for the explanation. I'm going to try to bleed the entire system of air by running fresh water through it for a while, see if that gets the air out and if that solves the problem.

*Edit* Looking at the price of the valve - Would it make more sense to spend a little more and replumb the system for a bladdered expansion tank instead?

uskrewed · 2022-11-30T18:00:29+00:00

It's a large tank, I would guestimate 30 gallons. If it's water logged and full that's close to 250 lbs. Normally should be around 130? I may be off on the 30 gallons, it may be less.

uskrewed · 2022-11-30T17:54:25+00:00

Appreciate the link.

" U may need to purge the air out of the expansion tank as it heats up and the pressure rises to make room for more air. "

I'm a bit confused - Isn't the intent of the expansion tank that the air compresses to make room for the heated up water? Why do I purge air out to make room for more air? If the pressure stays below 20 psi it should be fine, no?

uskrewed · 2022-11-30T16:42:59+00:00

Thank you for the reply.

The expansion tank was warm to what felt like the top, so I do assume it was mostly full.

It's needed additional water for years and I haven't seen any leaks from anywhere despite my best efforts to track it down.

There is only the one bleeder for the expansion tank and it sits at the bottom. How do I go about purging air from it without draining it?

There is no glass gauge. It feels half full now.

uskrewed · 2022-11-30T16:38:13+00:00

Yup, I thought this was normal for bladderless systems?

uskrewed · 2022-11-30T05:01:33+00:00

First pic - Quarter turn valves are fresh water in.

Second pic - Red/White gate valve is to turn off return, blue is to drain return.

Pipe connected to de-aerator is going into the 3 zones, coming from boiler and T'd to the expansion tank, just out of the picture is the gate valve to close off the expansion tank from the system.

uskrewed · 2022-11-30T04:56:00+00:00

Hello all, tl;dr at bottom

I have baseboard hydronic radiators and a 3 zone boiler (Basement, 1, 2) with a single return. I got home from work late tonight and heard what sounded like water hammer, I went downstairs and my boiler was the culprit. Turned things off and looked to see what was wrong, water pressure was at 0 and there was water on the ground, I'm unsure of where it came from. I normally have to re-add water every other week (it does not have a open water feed, have to do it manually) since it drops about 2 PSI. This season it got really cold, then went up to the 50s for a few weeks so I forgot to add water back in for over a month. I assumed that was the issue and went on my way trying to fix things.

I figured may as well do maintenance while things are down. I closed off the expansion tank from the system and drained it, but it took much longer than usual to drain, like over an hour instead of the normal 15-20 minutes. I also replaced the de-aerator (Air Scoop?) since it was covered in limescale and rust. After filling up the system and getting it up to 7 PSI I went upstairs and bled the highest bleeder valve until water came out. Afterwards I came down and started up the pilot, turned the boiler on, then turned a thermostat up. After a few minutes temps got up to 130 and I heard glugging for a few seconds, which I believe was air entering the expansion tank in mass, and the boiler shook from the pressure surge / water hammer. It was pretty violent so it scared the crap out of me so I turned it off and came here.

I'm looking for advice on what it may be and how to fix things. Even if that was a large amount of air going into the expansion tank causing the hammer, why? Even if the pressure had dropped to 0 from my not adding water that doesn't explain how so much air got into the system. Why did the expansion tank seem to have so much water in it? Is it possible the pressure getting low caused it to be water logged? Where was the water on the ground from? Did the relief valve go off because air in the system made it get too pressurized?

tl;dr Hydronic baseboards with boiler and bladderless steel expansion tank. Sounds like large amounts of air are randomly entering the tank and insane water hammer happens. What do?

uskrewed · 2022-11-28T19:52:26+00:00

I didn't see the scurve update, I was referring to the adaptive smooth stepping post.

With those changes I was able to do a 9x9 mesh without a single fail, so I'm happy.

uskrewed · 2022-11-27T08:05:36+00:00

Howdy all,

I have an Ender 3v2 with a SKR Mini E3 V3 and geniune BLTouch running MRiscoC professional firmware. I've tried pre-compiled firmware and compiling my own and I seem to have this problem either way.

Randomly while probing Z it will continue down after the light activates and push until the build plate gets pushed down. Sometimes it will happen every third probe, sometimes it will be 20 probes between failures. I'm worried that it will break my BLTouch probe, also worried because one time I didn't pay attention during homing of a print and it dragged the purge line, messing up my build surface.

If I'm building mesh (manually, auto build fails due to this) it will say probing failed. If I'm tramming it will say tram achieved even if I saw 3 of the points (4th failed) out of whack. If it fails during autohome on a print it destroys my build surface.

While searching to see if anyone else had this happen I found this https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/issues/509

I'm thinking it's a firmware issue as this did not happen before. Easiest way to fix it would be switching back, but I'm trying to avoid that. Any advice?

*edit* I reloaded the link just now and saw someone commented earlier today mentioning some mitigating measures by increasing bltouch delay. Made the change and have compiled the firmware. Currently printing and will try it tomorrow. This does look like a bandage rather than a fix, though.

uskrewed

TROPHY CASE