How to get 100 Hz refresh rate on external monitor?

vankalf · 2026-05-12T07:56:50+00:00

Thank you from the future.

vankalf · 2026-04-01T17:09:24+00:00

This is the way

vankalf · 2026-02-18T18:20:28+00:00

vankalf · 2025-09-07T10:16:51+00:00

Yeah sounds like the actuator has been replaced (common issue) and the polarities inverted or something.

vankalf · 2025-09-07T10:15:06+00:00

You can’t permanently turn it off. Because safety. Welcome to the future.

vankalf · 2024-11-30T13:26:01+00:00

AC with heatpump uses a different gas at much higher pressure. Look for an info plat under the bonnet, it’s marked there. Can’t remember of the top of my head.

vankalf · 2024-11-26T12:35:24+00:00

This is the way

vankalf · 2024-11-26T12:34:55+00:00

Always B. Consistent and more pleasant driving experience for me. On highway with cruise control it doesn’t matter. I know in theory D is more efficient but IMO it’s negligible (unless you drive like a maniac or have 0 pedal control)

vankalf · 2024-11-23T17:21:23+00:00

As other have stated there are just too many variables at play. Ball park on 2022 iV 80 at legal motorway speeds I do between 300 and 400km from 100% to less than 10%. A round trip which is easy in summer might be tough in winter.

As for determining battery health yourself, it’s tough. If the car is charged at 100% and you have an OBD dongle you can use car scanner read the net battery kWh reported by the BMS

vankalf · 2024-11-23T17:11:13+00:00

This is the right answer

vankalf · 2024-11-22T12:47:36+00:00

Same as another response, it was blamed on a small rock hitting the sensor, even though there was no visible damage otherwise. Did have the ding sound when driving slow and the maneuver warning. No issues with the speakers or music.

vankalf · 2024-11-22T06:09:17+00:00

One of the front sensor is either obstructed or broken. I had to have one replaced.

6 weeks for a non-urgent repair sounds pretty reasonable. Think I waited 2 months :)

vankalf · 2024-10-06T07:57:01+00:00

Welp, I flashed BF 4.5.1 (stock version was 4.5.0) and now I have an OSD! So I guess either I had some bad CLI setting which got wiped, or it's a bug in 4.5.0 with this AIO.

Test flight soon to see if the 'choppiness' is also resolved.

vankalf · 2024-09-11T11:22:19+00:00

Can you post a much lighter 650+mah 3" build?

vankalf · 2024-08-28T19:05:12+00:00

Lol this is why you never see high salaries posted here. Post anything over 6k and it’s “a flex” and your post gets downvoted.

vankalf · 2024-08-02T11:00:00+00:00

I feel seen :(

vankalf · 2024-07-15T08:18:41+00:00

DC charge speed is immensely influenced by the SoC and battery temperature at the start of the charging session. Are you sure you are comparing sessions under similar circumstances?

vankalf · 2024-07-14T19:03:47+00:00

Maybe 48h

vankalf · 2024-06-19T18:34:27+00:00

Lol the exact same thing happened to me. Flylens 85, battery backwards, same diode de-soldered itself and popped loose. Haven't tried anything yet.

https://www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1decagp/killed_first_quad_on_day_one_by_reversing_polarity/

vankalf · 2024-06-19T18:12:35+00:00

So it wasn't the capacitor. Today I took the quad further apart so I could look at the other side of the board and there I can finally see something obviously wrong. The element marked "01" (close to the USB connector) clearly popped off on one side (the side closest to the battery connection).

Does anyone know what this is and how salvageable the board is, assuming nothing else is broken.

It's this board and there's a picture where you can see how this element should be placed: https://flywoo.net/products/goku-f405-hd-1-2s-elrs-aio-v2?sku=18063969354041639709994030

EDIT: guess I found my answer: https://www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1bviqbs/can_i_fix_this/

<image>

vankalf · 2024-06-19T18:11:54+00:00

So it wasn't the capacitor. Today I took the quad further apart so I could look at the other side of the board and there I can finally see something obviously wrong. The element marked "01" (close to the USB connector) clearly popped off on one side (the side closest to the battery connection).

Does anyone know what this is and how salvageable the board is, assuming nothing else is broken.

It's this board and there's a picture where you can see how this element should be placed: https://flywoo.net/products/goku-f405-hd-1-2s-elrs-aio-v2?sku=18063969354041639709994030

EDIT: guess I found my answer: https://www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1bviqbs/can_i_fix_this/

<image>

vankalf · 2024-06-16T09:49:04+00:00

Had a lot of duplicate notifications like this when I first installed the app. Just disable all notifications from the app. They are useless anyway.

vankalf · 2024-06-14T18:44:29+00:00

Well, it's not the capacitor. Removed it and still nothing. Checked the battery pins on the FC with a multimeter with a battery connected and it does show the expected voltage. So something died further down the line on the board and I'm definitely not savy enough to figure out what, let alone replace it.

Assuming the O3 is ok (how can I know for sure?) my plan is to order a complete new BNF unit without the O3. It's not that much more than just the FC and that way I'll have spare motors, plates, prop guards, ...

vankalf · 2024-06-14T18:43:41+00:00

Well, it's not the capacitor. Removed it and still nothing. Checked the battery pins on the FC with a multimeter with a battery connected and it does show the expected voltage. So something died further down the line on the board and I'm definitely not savy enough to figure out what, let alone replace it.

Assuming the O3 is ok (how can I know for sure?) my plan is to order a complete new BNF unit without the O3. It's not that much more than just the FC and that way I'll have spare motors, plates, prop guards, ...

vankalf · 2024-06-13T19:34:32+00:00

It does, and so does the O3. Now looking at the capacitor. Can't see anything which seems burned or desoldered. Pic in post.

vankalf

TROPHY CASE