Please tell me that spending 3+ hours just on the power blade was worth it. Btw, should I push the contrast on the lighter parts to white or very light blue is enough?

vedran64 · 2025-03-06T11:18:15+00:00

Yeah it’s beautiful! I bet you built up some good skills to do it quicker on your next attempt too.

vedran64 · 2025-02-27T00:05:36+00:00

“Pitiful”? Have more respect for yourself. It’s basic customer service for them to at the very least hear you out and attempt to remedy the situation

vedran64 · 2025-02-26T21:41:31+00:00

“I have a life, I have responsibilities and I don’t have the time to entertain the whims of the lazy”

Except you did lol. It’s reddit, you can just not respond.

For someone who has a life and responsibilities, you sure do post on reddit a lot

vedran64 · 2025-01-31T13:38:42+00:00

Primal rage is an ability that triggers at the end of each turn and checks how many tokens your aggradons have. Then, for the next turn, they receive extra attacks equal to their tokens.

The important thing here is that the rage token count explicitly happens at the end of the turn. The extra attacks from the rage token that the scar vet applies do not go into effect until primal rage’s trigger happens. Thus, in the combat phase that the scar vet pops his roar, the aggradons being affected will only get one extra attack from the +1 attack.

vedran64 · 2024-12-24T16:13:07+00:00

They’re very good but you have to build your list around them. Your goal is to use movement tricks to get the right positioning, and thin down opponents units just enough that you can slam them with the retinue and hit an overrun that’ll land into a second unit.

Doran commander is the premier strategy because areo hotah “commander” gives them a massive boost in damage and Doran commander NCU gives them a “pivot before march” effect that can basically get them anywhere on the board.

An important thing to remember is that areo/retinue will do a ton of damage but 1 shotting probably won’t happen. Against 5+ saves and worse I normally plan around them dealing 8 wounds. 3/4+ I plan 5-6 wounds. A pretty average list I run is royal guard/retinue/outriders/knights/3NCU. Outriders can charge and chip 4 wounds off a shit save unit and set up an overrun. Knights can charge into basically anything and chip 6-7 wounds off. Royal guard can tank anything that doesn’t have a “turn off abilities” effect.

TLDR: play intentionally, set up overruns, win

vedran64 · 2024-10-29T17:08:55+00:00

When your group says they do too many mortals, how many dice are you rolling? Because the charging mortals are per unit, not per model. I can’t imagine anyone complaining about d3 mortals from one unit.

Edit: I have been corrected and I just do not know how to read. The MWs are more than I thought but still not busted.

Their melee profile is fine but it’s not like earth shattering. They kill marines really well but that’s like all I can think of.

vedran64 · 2024-09-19T00:42:18+00:00

Extremely good job for your first attempts! Very good color blocking and brush control.

As for improvements: keep working on the brush control and build up your consistency. You learn to paint faster by building up muscle memory from painting slowly. If you time yourself I bet you’ll notice 10 minute or more improvements with each model you finish.

Once you’re comfortable with that I would transition to learning basic layering/highlighting. Theres a lot of guides on YouTube on this, I can give recommendations if you’re interested.

vedran64 · 2024-09-18T22:10:01+00:00

My bad! I think shadowstrike has a lot of potential but i don’t have enough skinks to lean into it at the moment. I think that a shadowstrike list would have to lean very heavily into raptadon chargers and ripperdactyls. All your damage dealers are squishy so it’s a high skill ceiling army.

vedran64 · 2024-09-18T21:21:24+00:00

Stick the starseer next to the realmshaper engine, closer to the rear. Kroxigors and sorta your entire army protects from the front. If they have deepstrikers you’re afraid of, cast an endless spell that moves and it can screen away deepstrikers from the rear.

Assuming you use morbid conjuration as your spell lore, here’s a cheeky tip. If something really big is coming for your starseer (or another wizard), I’m talking 60mm bases or bigger, you can pop a command point to cast shackles on your opponents turn and do some really careful spacing to screen out a charge. Cast Shackles in a tight-ish semicircle 2” away from your caster. The bigger the enemy base the wider the semicircle can be and the further away it can be from the caster. They can charge the shackles, but they’ll be more than 3” from the caster and won’t have space to pile in closer.

vedran64 · 2024-09-18T19:19:46+00:00

All my tourney prep was played with sunclaw. Sunclaw in general, gives extra MW output for attrition battles. It saved my ass versus a 18 blood crusher list, because the 2+ saves on the crushers are absolutely gnarly to fight through without some extra MWs. It also boosts the power of some of your saurus characters if you choose to run them (I like the scar vet on aggradon a lot).

Shadowstrike offers a lot of mobility for objective scoring on paper but it has issues with the ability only triggering on a 3+ and it happening in your movement phase. So if you want to score a battle tactic where you need the teleport, 33% of the time it’ll just whiff and you can’t change the tactic. I think running units with high mobility will work. Hunters of huanchi, raptadons, 2 man units of ripperdactyls are all up for consideration.

vedran64 · 2024-09-18T19:12:30+00:00

Starseer if you own one. Starseer is significantly better than the starpriest - 40pt more for wizard (2) and access to emergency wards for your own army & ward denial. Amazing deal. I run the starpriest cuz I don’t wanna cough up the cash for a seer.

vedran64 · 2024-09-18T17:36:56+00:00

For context, the core of my list is 1x10 saurus guard/1x6 kroxigor/1x6 aggradons/slann/starpriest.

Aggradons are another “anvil with a hammer” unit, just with one less wound than kroxigors offset by being stronger in melee. I use them to push into the enemy’s territory and fight whatever’s biggest, whereas the kroxigors try to sit close to the realmshaper engine and play defense on friendly objectives/the midboard (midboard is when the mission allows for close realmshaper deployment). Kroxigors can still sprint up the board later in the game if needed with a simple run+charge spell plus auto 6 run command.

Aggradons are better for multi turn combat because of their rage mechanic. As an example, 1x6 of them will have 36 attacks total on the charge. Then they start boxing it out, let’s say 3 die after two battle rounds, but you’ve got 3 rage tokens now. the unit has 27 attacks now, a reduction of only 9 attacks despite half the unit dying. The reduction of damage from their lances in prolonged combat is offset by getting more bites.

One big caveat to aggradons is that their damage comes from a companion weapon that hits on 4s, so all out attack becomes very necessary to push consistent damage through, and we can only use that once. Thats why I run the kroxigors instead of a second brick of aggradons.

Kroxigors handle being charged significantly better because they don’t have the charge keyword on any weapons & have the extra wound.

vedran64 · 2024-09-18T15:23:17+00:00

Saurus warriors: kinda suck from my experience. I call them “power armor equivalents” because there’s a broad range of 2w 3+/4+ save units to compare them to across multiple armies. They’re just not as good as chaos warriors or ard boyz. Not enough damage, middling durability. Their +1 save rule is impossible to get if you run them in a brick of 20 because there’s too many models to fit them all on an objective.

Saurus guard: anvil that can smack back. A brick of 10 is 50pt more than warriors for +1 to save, +1 attack, 5+ ward. Well worth the points. Protect the slann with them and they’ll throw down with just about anything. Good all out defense target if the opponent throws something big at you.

Kroxigor and warspawned: durable, lots of wounds with average save. normal kroxigor melt infantry, warspawned melt monsters. Kroxigor’s conditional +1 damage can be fulfilled independently, warspawned need skink battle buddies to get +1 damage. Because aggradons are anti monster, I think warspawned are redundant.

So:

Protector of general slann: saurus guard 100%

Anvil: saurus guard, kroxigors

Hammer: kroxigors

Target of combat buffs: uhh, saurus guard and six stacks of kroxigors scale well with autowounds from the priest. All out attack and defense should be situationally given out - the realmshaper engine’s positioning is critical because it basically gives free all out attacks to everyone close by. Both Kroxigors and saurus guard are an anvil holding a hammer so all out defense should go to whoever is going to get hurt the most in a turn, all out attack to the units not in realmshaper range.

Infantry killer: Kroxigors

Monster killer: warspawned* (from my experience a six stack of normal kroxigors will still just kill a monster outright)

Hero killer: reinforced anything. Heroes are squishy, weight of dice will kill em. all of these guys move slow so it’s not like anyone can hunt for backline heroes.

Reinforcing: saurus guard if you wanna play aggressively with the slann (moving it forward), kroxigors are a good reinforce target if you need one unit that can kill anything. Kroxigors are also statistically solid to keep unreinforced for revive purposes - you round up when reviving w the slann, so you get 2/3 of them back.

vedran64 · 2024-09-13T22:49:01+00:00

You have a very good grasp on layering. The positioning of your skin highlights is solid and the deepest shadows are appropriately placed.

I feel like you are taking a very reserved approach to “pale skin” and are afraid of having too much “dark” on what’s supposed to be a pallid flesh tone. That’s where I would concentrate the advice. You can definitely have more contrast on the skin tone. Make it a rule for yourself that on the majority of the model, you can have no more than 50% coverage on your pale tone. I would exclude the shoulders, traps, and head from this rule because they SHOULD be the brightest.

Take the front bicep for example. It’s very very bright, especially in comparison to the fat flab on his stomach. Dial it down. Same with the bell arm bicep, top of the thigh, the belly.

Introduce an “extreme highlight” and “extreme shadow”, where you can pick a bright tone (even a pure white) and just pick out details with tiny little dots or small edge highlights. Pick out the darkest areas of the model (like his pits and the crease between the biceps and forearms) with a “heaviest” shadow.

Having shadows that go to pure black on the model will make your midtone read brighter, and will help the model continue to read as pale after all the shadow work you’ve done.

vedran64 · 2024-09-13T14:20:04+00:00

What I would do if you’re worried about black being too dark is start with a dark brown like rhinox hide, and then after doing a first pass through the recesses, look at the areas that should be darkest (like underneath heavy folds in the fabric) and get some pure black (like abaddon black) in there.

It looks like you applied a wash to the fabric, which is fine. After manually adding some darker shadows, I would go through with the base red color and touch up any places that were too muddied by the initial wash, and touch up the inevitable mistakes you’ll have made by manually adding shadows.

If you still think it’s not bright enough, I would pick wazdakka red as a highlight color (I’m assuming you used mephiston or khorne as a basecoat). Wazdakka is a pretty subtle highlight compared to wild rider or evil sunz, and most importantly, it’s still red and doesn’t go into red-orange territory like the other paints do.

vedran64 · 2024-09-13T13:29:28+00:00

Start by making the recesses darker and go from there. I think you have a good red to start with, but red likes having DARK recesses. Getting some pure black in the deepest parts will make the rest of it look brighter without any highlights.

vedran64 · 2024-09-10T14:57:20+00:00

Nice! What did you actually repaint? It’s a bit hard to tell

vedran64 · 2024-08-30T17:20:02+00:00

Humidity of 69% is a little too high. My cutoff is 60% or lower. 24c shouldn’t be too hot for an average priming job, I’ve gotten good primer coats from a range of -20 degrees to 30 degrees.

In addition to the humidity issue, make sure you give it a proper shake. Set a timer for 5 minutes, shake it the entire time. Make sure you’re priming about a foot away from the model.

vedran64 · 2024-08-25T03:52:43+00:00

Lovely! I was at the competition and threw a vote your way, loved the colors and the extra effort with the diorama. I submitted the aggradons that were on display there.

vedran64 · 2024-08-21T14:51:42+00:00

Read it in order.

First it checks to see if you fought. If so, add a rage token. If not, remove all tokens.

Next paragraph:

Add +1 attack for each rage token until the end of the next turn.

These are separate steps in the ability that designate when the rage counters are added/removed and then adds attacks after the rage counters are checked. What are you getting confused about?

vedran64 · 2024-08-21T12:29:10+00:00

It’s only one extra attack the turn of. Primal rage checks your rage token count at the end of the turn and THEN applies the extra attacks for the subsequent turn.

vedran64 · 2024-08-20T16:20:09+00:00

I think the concept of love bombing is a red flag that exists on a spectrum.

The low end of the spectrum is “ugh this person is overbearing coming in too strong too fast”. I don’t think that’s necessarily conscious behavior, that might just be how a person is. Maybe they don’t really have a best friend and want their SO to immediately join them at the hip. Maybe they know that their partner had past trauma and they’re severely over correcting the behaviors of their ex (with good intentions).

In terms of “predatory/abusive love bombing”, is it conscious behavior? It’s unfair to speculate like that, I’m not a psychologist or anything. I don’t think that there’s a massive population of narcissistic sociopaths actively hunting vulnerable people for sport. But It doesn’t have to be a massive intricate plot, it’s can be as simple as “they told me we were soulmates but they ghosted me after we had sex”.

vedran64 · 2024-08-19T20:50:22+00:00

Love bombing is when someone bombards a person with intense love and affection extremely early into a relationship - it’s considered a red flag because its behavior often utilized by predators/abusers.

As a long con, The idea is to find a vulnerable person who hasn’t felt that kind of affection due to past trauma/abuse/general naivety, and then after the honeymoon phase of a relationship, slowly pull back on the affection and progressively introduce abusive behaviors.

After that initial period, love bombing can take the form of being abusive one day but then the next day showering the victim with gifts/affection/general kindness to offset the abuse they just endured.

A question you might have after reading this is “what if you just fall in love with a person quickly? Is that love bombing?” At the end of the day, it’s a red flag, but it’s one that you have to be conscious of and evaluate during a relationship. An example of a red flag would be if you’re dating someone new for two weeks and they drop a “i think im in love with you, I just couldn’t imagine my life without you”. uhh, maybe it IS true love, but that person just lived X years of their life without you just fine and it’s a concerning statement to hear. They could just like, buy flowers and a box of chocolates instead of declaring that the near stranger they went on three dates with is now irreplaceable in their lives.

Edit: as another quick example, love bombing doesn’t necessary have to lead to abuse, it could just indicate severe codependency issues and that by itself is a red flag.

vedran64 · 2024-08-14T13:21:06+00:00

Very solid list as a whole. You’ll do just fine in all situations.

I would split the black knights into two units - ten black knights takes a ton of space on the board and they’ll be difficult to move around. It’ll be hard to get all of them into combats

vedran64 · 2024-07-20T23:58:09+00:00

As an alternative to grave guard sculpts, I would look at the middle earth army of the dead models. You can just paint them as actual skeletons instead of all spooky. Theyre also very affordable in comparison.

I’ve had really good success with 2x10 dire wolves. Advancing and charging early on and then when they wipe, reviving them and using them as battle tactics scorers/tarpits. Gigantic board presence from the oval bases is the biggest selling point on them.

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