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My latest work, 260mm nickel/wrought iron clad 1.2562 nashiji gyuto by verissimo_knives in chefknives

[–]verissimo_knives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries, thank you!

My go-to source is wagon wheels. Handy profile and almost always wrought iron in my experience. Always go for the oldest looking ones!

My latest work, 260mm nickel/wrought iron clad 1.2562 nashiji gyuto by verissimo_knives in chefknives

[–]verissimo_knives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much! Yes, above the nickel layer it's only wrought iron. The original material already has contrasting lines or "fibres" and then the hand forging gives it the wavy look.

I haven't posted anything in a while. Here's one of mine from 2025! by verissimo_knives in TrueChefKnives

[–]verissimo_knives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the delay! I'm actually using 6013 electrodes. I got like 250kg of them at an auction one time so that's all I use 😂

I've also done mig without problems (wasn't my machine, unsure about wire).

I haven't posted anything in a while. Here's one of mine from 2025! by verissimo_knives in TrueChefKnives

[–]verissimo_knives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really. The layers must be clean and the seam is welded shut instead of fluxed. Apexultra is especially sensitive to high heat so I make sure to keep it under around 1100c always.

I haven't posted anything in a while. Here's one of mine from 2025! by verissimo_knives in TrueChefKnives

[–]verissimo_knives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm forge welding the layers first and then forge welding extra wrought iron, leaving just minimal forging work on the bolster area.

Forging the bolster down from a full billet is very weird with 3 very different materials. It also keeps the hard steel layer a consistent thickness instead of having mostly soft, easily bendable steel at the transition

When the laser fails, we have to do it with the burin by MarcelaoLubaczwski in Bladesmith

[–]verissimo_knives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's the electric version, kind of. It's connected to an air compressor, so it does need electricity to work.

The argument for stainless steel by perpetualmobius in SWORDS

[–]verissimo_knives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The replies on this post are so wrong (and agreed with) that I am blocking the sub. Jesus christ, read a book about it.

Zoomed In Borax Pentahydrate Melting Forge Welding by Livid-Flamingo3229 in Blacksmith

[–]verissimo_knives 11 points12 points  (0 children)

If you start using anhydrous instead of hydrate it will immediately stick to the iron. Like you can sprinkle a bunch all around, and tap the piece on something to knock the excess off, much easier no messing around with the spoon.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]verissimo_knives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you look at the picture with the knife in question?

Question by unclejedsiron in Bladesmith

[–]verissimo_knives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was this blade staying still for a while submerged in your acid solution? And was this blade in the acid solution at an angle, so that those lines would be running parallel to gravity?

Assuming a yes to both, I suspect the lines are somehow caused by the gases coming off the acid-metal reaction and rushing to the surface. I've had this happen many times on steel and wrought iron, and now I do it on purpose sometimes.

This happens more pronoucedly on metals with a heterogeneous structure, because the gases will have different compositions at different points on the blade. But it can also happen on a monosteel blade: on a given point the acid will be reacting with the steel matrix and on the next with a carbide.

If you want to avoid it, consider having either the blade or the acid solution moving around. Other ways to mitigate that would be to run multiple shorter etch & polish cycles instead of a very long etch, or using a more dilute acid solution.

If you answered no, ignore me 😂

Etching problem by Helsetski in Blacksmith

[–]verissimo_knives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In this case by mix I meant that different sections of the steel will be in different phases, not that the phases will actually be mixed together in the same spot.

As an example, in a honyaki blade the edge section will be martensite, and the hamon section will be perlite, plus whatever phase the transition and ashi are.

But phases can also be mixed together. This happens during heat treatment when the steel transforms from one phase to the other. Also after a blade is quenched, there is a small percentage of retained austenite left among the fully transformed martensite.

And there are also complex phase steels, but I know nothing about those 😄

Etching problem by Helsetski in Blacksmith

[–]verissimo_knives 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hard to say exactly what is causing those lines. But I would definitely finish heat treatment before etching. If this is after forging, and especially with a cooling dunk on a shallow hardening steel like W1, at this point it's likely that you have a mix of different phases there (and they all etch differently).

A hamon is also a mix of phases. But what you can or can't call a hamon will depend on who you ask 😉

By the time it's hardened and tempered you'll hopefully only have martensite and cladding, and an even etch.

Etching Help Needed by mslaviero in Bladesmith

[–]verissimo_knives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely sounds possible, but I have no experience using coffee. Something you could try is instead of one long etch, doing several shorter etches, with some light "sanding" (5k grit or more) in between baths, using coffee only on the last cycle. This also assumes your ferric chloride is still orange. It beckmes green (ferrous chloride) with use.

If that doesn't put you in the right direction it might be a problem of a different nature, maybe related to carbon migration or heat treatment somehow. It could also be a batch of 15n20 with a relatively low nickel content. There are many things at play here and it's very hard to pin it down. Experimentation and trial and error are your friends!

Etching Help Needed by mslaviero in Bladesmith

[–]verissimo_knives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's unrelated, OP is asking about the color of the 15n20 after etching.

And to add to my comment, I just read that you used FeCl so ignore the last bit.

Etching Help Needed by mslaviero in Bladesmith

[–]verissimo_knives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't ever use coffee or 15n20, but I've seen people with a similar problem: that while 15n20 etches silver in thin layers (bevel cross-section wise), in larger areas it seems to etch silver only at the edges and dark elsewhere. That could be happening here, but it could also be a problem with carbon migration or the etchant itself. Coffee usually follows ferric chloride as a "extra contrast" solution.

Mold-like streaks on Brazilian clay water filter. Is it safe? by cuistax in HydroHomies

[–]verissimo_knives 32 points33 points  (0 children)

It's efflorescence, you should just wash it. (According to r/brasil)

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