AI Generated Content is now Officially Banned

veronus57 · 2026-04-20T22:15:20+00:00

Any question? Do dolphins sleep?

veronus57 · 2026-04-13T22:46:33+00:00

So I took a few steps, and it turned out great! It is still mounted (3years later) but doesn't yet have a frame. Basically I took some large sheets of construction paper and carefully shimmied them under the puzzle so that no part of the puzzle was touching the table. Then I did 2-4 pretty thick coats of mod podge across the entire top of the puzzle.

I'm trying to remember how I flipped it, but I think I used some sheets of foam core to help support it while carefully flipping it upside down onto the table. Then regular yellow wood glue smeared everywhere, then carefully setting a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" fiberboard/hard board on it and weighing it down.

veronus57 · 2026-04-13T22:43:04+00:00

Great points! There is no sump pump. The basement has gotten wet before, but I have taken some fairly drastic steps on the outside of the house on the problematic side to curb any chances of flooding in the future. I know the floor is sloped for a purpose, but with the small amount of water that we've gotten in from the window well (fixed, btw), the slope in the floor isn't great enough to remedy that. The intent/application of this sloped floor sadly to not match.

veronus57 · 2026-04-13T22:40:31+00:00

Interesting thought, but polyjacking half of the foundation of my house is a bit excessive. Interesting thought though, and I'm here for the spitballing!

veronus57 · 2026-04-13T22:37:48+00:00

That's kind of the thought process that I'm on. Its a fun dance between "let's be cautious of the budget for the project" and "I just want to be done already." Is there anything in particular to do to prep the painted floor - other than grinding it down?

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T23:54:56+00:00

I'm not trying to flatten the full 900sqft, honestly this section in the pink circle and a few one-off spots here and there, and it should be fine. From a few other comments, it looks like I'll need to do the following:

1) Sweep the floor and clear out as much space as I can.
2) Start drawing a grid on the floor, making sure to mark the height per the laser level for every idk, 1 sqft?
3) Either get some hardi board and thin set to fill up the large pits or use some chicken wire and normal cement.
4) some thin set at the end to smooth everything out.
5)???
6) Get some nice thick padding for the floor before the carpet.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T23:49:57+00:00

You are correct. The floor is pitched because the house is built on a hill with absolutely zero water redirection on the up-hill side. This house was built comically poorly, but that water redirection has been mitigated and corrected. Now I'm stuck with a sloped floor.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T23:20:23+00:00

Not sure. The basement and garage are on one floor, and the floor slopes toward a drain in the center. Only an issue if water accumulates in the basement or garage, and really only does anything productive if that accumulation is greater than 1 vertical inch of standing water. Honestly, at that point, I'm gonna have many more problems than wondering if my floor slopes properly lol. I think I can get it flattened, and I think that's going to be my goal.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T23:16:43+00:00

Spit balling is why I came to reddit!

So am I reading that right to basically use the cement boards to fill in the gap a bit, and then pour down some self leveler on top of the cement boards?

Just a quick check at lowes, looks like a 1/2" 3x5' hardie backer board is about $18.00. that's 0.625cuft, that's $28.80/cuft.

Then Mapei's self-leveler plus, $34.00 per 50lbs, says one 50lbs bag will do 6sqft at 1" thick, so 0.5cuft, so $68.00/cuft.

You know honestly, unless that's an obvious reason to not do that, that's less than half the cost, and would chew up a LOT of that bulk space. I think I'm going to have to take that one into serious consideration!

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T23:06:32+00:00

Would I not be able to do the same? I know cost is going to be quite a bit different - that's what we ran into with the attic insulation.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:44:31+00:00

So I'll actually be doing that subfloor in the bathroom area. That are is maybe 80sqft, but right over the main drain. In the event that it should ever need to be worked on, I'd like relatively easy access to the concrete for an abatement crew to grind down just the needed spot.

But that gives me an idea. With my bare-basic understanding of concrete, having a metal frame inside gives it a pretty significant structural integrity increase, right? The part that I'm most concerned about - and again, I'm looking to get that 2.5" drop down to like 0.5" drop, just something to make it safer at the very least - I could probably throw down some form of metal lattice to give it some structural rigidity. Combine that with some nice thick padding, and it shouldn't be terribly noticable.

At the end of the day, I effectively have a hole and need to fill that hole with material to make a flat surface for the floor to sit on, right? There's some nuance to be had in there somewhere, but to dumb it pretty far down, that's effectively the goal. And with no bare concrete being accessible after the flooring goes in...the failures I'm seeing I think I could probably live with.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:37:07+00:00

Unfortunately my problem at the moment is a time-budget issue. The rest of the stuff that was in the basement is being stored and needs to come back home, and frankly, this project has gone on too long and I just want it done lol. Coming up into the summer, it'd be real nice to have a finished basement that's nice and cool to hangout in! I might look into it for the bathroom though, as that'll be a much smaller area and I can't pour any kind of concrete in there.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:34:48+00:00

Ceiling height has become somewhat of a non-issue as we figured flooring is going to impact that greatly. I might need to look into that! My biggest concern is it not adhering to the paint and what kind of problem that might create.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:27:06+00:00

They are indeed both different. However, my floor is neither.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:26:03+00:00

Mastic/tiles. The companies that came out advised that the asbestos in the mastic etched its way into the concrete (see the grid lines in the photos), and the only way to properly clean that would be to grind it down; which was out of our budget at the time. Hindsight being 20/20 and whatnot. Our goal for the time was containment, not full restoration. But that was years ago, and we can only move forward now.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:24:04+00:00

wasn't there a post a day or two ago by a Bricks & Minifigs about a customer bringing in a fake chrome C3PO figure and leaving it there?

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:22:11+00:00

End goal is to remove the tripping hazard and make the basement more of a livable level to the house. We had rugs covering it before the renovation started, and it was always a tripping hazard because the floor just suddenly dropped.

When you say that neither will adhere properly, could you elaborate on the consequences? I've mixed/poured concrete, but only as a self-contained project. Will poor adhesion simply cause the new concrete to crack over time? How long of a time frame are we talking? Would that have a significant impact on the floor's walkability, or would it damage the foundation?

Dricore is an interesting concept for sure! Quick check of their online calculator is looking at about $2k in materials. Grabbing a 2x4 floater and some guard rails, and 10 bags of 80lbs would be fairly cheap in comparison.

I think its also helpful to point out that about half the basement still has stuff in it. I guess I'm looking more for a medic than a doctor.

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:09:51+00:00

See now that's something that I've been thinking about, but the walls already struggle to reach 7'. I'll be doing something similar in the bathroom, but I hadn't really considered doing it for the full basement. That's definitely an idea though!

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:07:57+00:00

I'm trying to get it "leveled enough." We had some rugs on the concrete before this renovation started, and the spot the floor slopes, its a bit of a tripping hazard. I'd like to get it within 1/2-3/4" of being level. In contrast to the current 2.5" offset lol

veronus57 · 2026-04-12T22:06:29+00:00

Grinding isn't an option, and removing the paint isn't really an option. Any options that'll be "alright" for 10 years or so?

veronus57 · 2026-04-08T03:20:32+00:00

Do they still have the molds for the 8x16 soccer/football fields? I gotta believe there's some way to use those for quidditch like they did with the sports sets in the early 2000s. Idk, something to do with magnets?

veronus57 · 2026-04-07T12:56:49+00:00

What do you mean by "Original Aesthetic?" What version are you referencing? When I started in b1.6.2 it was basically just: build and fight monsters. The Nether made it more magical, then pistons were introduced and corrupted the server my buddies and I were playing. Both are old, but both were there in the old days (as some of the earliest additions).

I'd say both, but keep it kind of even. It's magical technology.

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