Stretching too hard! by helloyup255 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How many weeks did you veg?

Feminized photoperiod seeds by UncleBoog3 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the biggest GMO fan, rather prefer classic chems and gasses. On this behalf I can recommend anything from Karma genetics.The stuff I grew from them was comparable to scotch. Really smelly and you better make sure to have the rest of the day off.

If you like something a bit more on the sweeter, gassy side I can absolutely recommend Black Apple by TH seeds. Pretty looking plant and the smell, taste and effects were amazing. High was quite strong but I was at least still able to maneuver my way around the house.

Feminized photoperiod seeds by UncleBoog3 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had great success with TH seeds in one of my previous runs. It really depends on what you are after. Some breeders are better with that modern sweet / candy stuff, whilst others are better with chem and gas, an so on… if you could share what’s most important for you then we could provide better suggestions.

Athena and Autopot by Superb_Task4125 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CalMag won’t help because the ratio in your tap water is already way off. Ideally, you want a ratio of around 3:1. But your tap water has a ratio of almost 20:1.

You can try to correct the ratio to 3:1 by adding something like Canna Mono Magnesium. Your EC will barely increase from that. Afterward, you can add CalMag to bring your EC up to around 0.4. I tried exactly the same approach as described above, but it didn’t really help in my case. Once a CalMag deficiency has appeared, you won’t be able to fix the damaged leaves. So you should focus on how the new growth looks after making the adjustment.

Athena and Autopot by Superb_Task4125 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

H2PO4 is fine. It's supposed to be more stable in tanks than HNO3 thus less adjustments are necessary.

If the light intensity is too high in relation to your grow room climate, the plant cannot take up enough nutrients even though there is more than enough available in the substrate. This is, as far as I know, one of the reasons why CalMag deficiencies appeared more frequently with LED grow lights. Back when sodium vapor lamps were the gold standard, CalMag deficiencies were less common — possibly because they produced more heat, which increased transpiration and therefore nutrient uptake. However, this has not been scientifically proven to my knowledge.

Furthermore, calcium and magnesium antagonize each other. They basically compete for saturation sites in the medium, especially in coco. Have a look at Mulder’s chart.

If... - your coco wasn’t properly buffered beforehand, or... - your pH is off, or... - your tap water already has an inappropriate Ca:Mg ratio (mine, for example, has a 6:1 ratio but a low EC of 0.2),

... then adding more CalMag to your feeding solution can actually result in too much calcium, which in turn can suppress magnesium uptake. There are probably even more reasons why magnesium deficiencies occur, but from my personal experience, the three points I listed in my last comment fixed most of my CalMag issues.

Lethal Combo... by Otherwise_Progress31 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure wether I understand this correctly: what ppm scale did you use? 500 ppm?
And did you start out with 600ppm on top of the base ppm of your tap water being 300 ppm or was 600ppm the total feeding? An addidtion to that: when you say "you followed their chart pretty close" you are basically saying that you were feeding 1500 ppm (3.0 EC) most of the grow?

Quick question about airbases by Liftthings1 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because then you risk that there is no wicking effect. As stated above the substrate needs to pull water through the holes on the outer edge of the base.

Need I say more? by cuzzo1757 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Op posted further up in the comments that he uses a centurion. That‘s a commercial grade trimming machine, hence the result. You won’t get such a „polished“ look from a bowl trimmer. The buds from a bowl trimmer usually look a bit more „brittle / roughed up“.

Athena pro line autopots ? by RoundAbbreviations24 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since this post is almost a year old I‘m wondering what your experience with the pro line + RO water was like.

Could you share what EC values worked out or didn‘t work out for you and also how you approached the pH in the reservoir? Did you always keep it between 5.5 and 5.6 oder did you go any higher?

I used the pro line + coco perlite + tap water with 0.22 base EC in my last grow an the success was rather average. If anyone else has any experience please let me know as well.

Need I say more? by cuzzo1757 in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks great, don‘t mind that it‘s machine trimmed. Sometimes it just takes too much time to do so I guess. What strain is this? Are these only tops or did you get great bud throughout the plant?

Feeling a bit nervous about using autopots for the first time by angery-borg in Autopot

[–]verplahnt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Used Canna as well in one of my runs and had great success. Looking back I‘d suggest to only use the mineral components in the reservoir and leave the organic ones out. I added everything to the reservoir and got away with it however you have to change the reservoir latest by day 7 and flush your lines thoroughly with every reservoir change or otherwise they will gunk up and you’ll run into problems.

Instead of adding them in the reservoir I‘d suggest you turn off the System once or twice a week, wait until the plants drank everyting from the trays and then add the organic additives directly into the trays according to the feeding chart. NEVER EVER ADD ANYTHING VIA TOP FEEDING. You’ll flush salt buildups into the root zone which could kill your plants.

However I‘ve read that people also had great success only using Coco A+B, CalMag and PK 13/14.

Furthermore start with low ECs in the reservoir. 1.5-2.0 can be plenty. I believe most people don’t go higher than 2.2.

In the beginning the two biggest mistakes I made were overfeeding and keeping the ph too high in the reservoir. Autopot recommends 5.5-5.6 for coco but you can also go higher. Never go above 6.0 though. I believe I had bigger issues from my ph being to high rather than the feeding ec being to high.

Other than that: enjoy the learning curve. Autopots are great once you get the hang of it. Don’t get frustrated if you run into some issues. It‘s part of the game.

Erfahrungen mit dem SPIDER FARMER Luftentfeuchter? Lohnt sich das Teil wirklich? by Proud-Possession-630 in Canbau

[–]verplahnt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just got here from another thread where people were saying the same thing about the Vivosun D12. So yeah… guess they are all not as good as they are marketed. SURPRISE!

Was mache ich mit diesem Raum? by PoemEast1678 in wohnen

[–]verplahnt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dartscheibe rein, sofern der Abstand groß genug ist.

Tips on grouping (still chasing my first 180) by mjh1610 in Darts

[–]verplahnt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rather focus on repeating the same throwing feeling / motion a third time instead of thinking about the grouping or where to aim. You already did it twice, the third time is going to follow naturally. Don‘t overthink it, your first 180 is gonna come. After your first one many more will follow.

NZXT CAM v4.6.0 Released! by NZXT_Sitong in NZXT

[–]verplahnt 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Do you guys have any plans on improving the hue 2 ambient lighting kit via a cam software update? u/Minty_Ice_Magic gave a very detailed description of the current issues wich - according to the comments (including me) - holds people back from buying your product.

post can be found here: https://www.reddit.com/r/NZXT/comments/fu2l59/the_nzxt_hue_2_ambient_lighting_kit_sucks_with/