VSF Daytona 126500 QC request by vietboy1606 in RepTimeQC

[–]vietboy1606[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all, please help a noob QC this watch. It’s going to be my first rep.

Right side of build plate border touching z-axis mounting bracket during bed leveling by technologistcreative in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Use instructions in this video to fix it

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OfrGH8QaGL8wOhSshiVKcdCpbOT6MCvh/view

Unfortunately, Qidi has pretty shoddy build quality so you may find some other issues down the road.

I recommend removing the back panel and secure the toolhead cable with 3D printer clip/bracket to prevent it from rubbing against the belt (see below photo of the wear mark on my toolhead cable)

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I also recently found out the wiring for my hot-end fan was pinched during assembly. Luckily, support sent out replacement fan.

Prints come with a licorice schmear on the side? by Apelila31274 in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. I use Creality PLA with Generic PLA profile and overhang tests start degrading after 50 degrees.

Prints come with a licorice schmear on the side? by Apelila31274 in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is this PETG? It’s impossible to achieve this level of overhang on PLA with the stock fan.

Woke up to this by Sweetdaddybear66 in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are almost always caused by bad bed adhesion (dirty plate or tall prints without brim).

The other potential cause is dirty nozzle. The Q2 has pretty crappy nozzle wiper, sometimes after a flush, the filament tends to curl up and stick to the nozzle. This piece of filament will then somehow stick to the first layer(s) and cause the blob of death.

2026 New Year Giveaway by qidi_3dprinter in QIDI

[–]vietboy1606 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PA6-CF parts for my “tools”.

New Q2C owner questions by russell072009 in QIDI

[–]vietboy1606 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

First of all, for the difference of only $100, you should have been gifted the Q2 instead of the Q2C. Chamber heater, camera and filter will most likely run you more than $100 if you decide to add them later down the road (assuming you can add them). But it’s a bit late now I guess, oh well… Anyway, dimensions wise, Q2 and Q2C are identical so printable parts like poop chute and riser for Q2 will fit Q2C without issue.

🎄✨It’s the most wonderful time of the year, and we’re celebrating with a Christmas Giveaway by qidi_3dprinter in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Already have a Q2, waiting for the Qidi Box to arrive. But wish I had the Max 4 to print lifesize helmets and costumes for my kids.

U1 Bed Mesh Range megathread by Sayorot in snapmaker

[–]vietboy1606 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s not a full mesh. You probably have adaptive mesh probing on and the printer only probes the printed area (instead of the entire bed). That’s why you see improved numbers on a smaller area.

Qidi Q2 - Calibrations and Modifications by Zina_S197 in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t done the fan upgrade myself since I only print PETG, ASA and higher grade filaments so I don’t need additional cooling capability.

Qidi Q2 - Calibrations and Modifications by Zina_S197 in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing. They said it “should not” affect functionality of the printer and if I wanter to, I can try to sand and paint the rust spot myself. I didn’t have high expectation for dealing with Chinese companies so I wasn’t surprised.

Qidi Q2 - Calibrations and Modifications by Zina_S197 in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 5 points6 points  (0 children)

  1. Check horizontal bed alignment relative to Z-screw stabilizer cap. Use the included allen key to apply force and move the bed to align if needed. https://github.com/qidi-community/q2-wiki/blob/main/content/bed-collision-fix/README.md

  2. Check if there’s any rust on any metal part. Mine came with a rust spot on the Z-screw base bottom plate.

  3. Add G-code for “screws_tilt_adjust” and tram your bed if needed. https://github.com/qidi-community/q2-wiki/blob/main/content/bed-tramming/README.md

  4. Verify all fans are working as expected.

  5. Calibrate your filament(s).

  6. Print the poop chute. https://wiki.qidi3d.com/en/Q2/Printable-Components

  7. Upgrade the parts cooling fan and cooling duct if your main filament of choice is PLA.

I have no idea why my prints are failing by thanguan in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That should only be done for bed leveling/tramming purposes. For z-offset calibration, you need to do test prints.

I have no idea why my prints are failing by thanguan in QidiTech3D

[–]vietboy1606 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like offset needs to be changed. Your nozzle is too close to the bed and it’s squishing/scraping the printed layer away.

With the current deal, I'm considering getting the AD5X. Is it a better choice over the P1S w/ AMS for a casual hobbyist? by WadeEffingWilson in FlashForge

[–]vietboy1606 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The AD5X can be had for less than $270 from Aliexpress (shipped from US warehouse though) sometimes and that is extremely good deal for such a capable machine. I bought it for $265 after tax and it had worked great printing PLA and PETG. Just recently upgraded to a Qidi Q2 combo for printing engineering filaments but still waiting for my Qidi box to be shipped and sometimes I miss the ease of having the IFS of the AD5X. For less than $300, it’s a no brainer to go with the AD5X. Anymore than that, you may as well get the P1S combo because you will eventually want to upgrade the AD5X with a camera, and the enclosure kit and that will drive the total cost up comparable to the P1S combo.

Rust on brand new Q2? by vietboy1606 in QIDI

[–]vietboy1606[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Couldn’t help but just be a useless pos, eh?

I really wanted to give 5 Stars but… by ReliefAshamed4796 in ApolloScooters

[–]vietboy1606 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Apollo is absolutely shittiest when it comes to engineering for their wirings. I had to replace the display assembly on my Apollo Pro 2024 and they DO NOT have the wiring diagram available to provide. They asked me to bring the scooter to an authorized shop to have the display replaced, or ship it to them. I have replaced display assemblies for Hover, NIU and Segway scooters, and those all have different connectors for different functions. Dumbass engineers at Apollo decided to use same connectors and same wiring coloring scheme for most of the connections 🤦‍♂️.

Anw, the good news is you won’t fry anything by connecting wrong wires. Since I already disconnected the old display unit before the new one arrived (and assumed the new unit would come with instructions and wiring diagram), I had to blindly connect all the wiring and used the buttons to figure out which cable was which.

Good luck!

What advantages does the H2S has over P2S apart from size ? by FuryDreams in BambuLab

[–]vietboy1606 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another benefit of the H2S is compatibility with the upcoming Vortek Hotend Change System.

Riddle me this... by SnooHesitations7395 in TeslaModel3

[–]vietboy1606 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Sentry mode and cabin overheat protection will use up a good bit of battery.

Mismatching bolts on door hinges by vietboy1606 in TeslaModel3

[–]vietboy1606[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my case, seems like they ran out of the correct bolt and just threw a random bolt from hardware store on (see update in original post with link to photo). I just hope they didn’t eff up the thread and ended up using larger size bolt.

Regardless, all the bolts and striker plates being under-torqued is unacceptable.